2019+ Rams with Lifts/Levels, and/or aftermarket wheel tire setups

[RAM REAPER MAN]

you're wasting your breathe.
some people lack listening abilities and have to FAFO the hard way. they don't understand why things are done a certain way and not done a certain way. they are all about the look over the function. "not running baja" or "not offroading hard" is like a magic phrase that exempt them from physics and mechanical science.

sometimes it takes death of a loved one or major financial loss to learn why mickey mousing is not good idea.

What a friendly place to be, especially when I agreed with you. I wonder what the response would have been if I disagreed? I even offered a parade with balloons
I came here to learn about specifics of the ram 1500. I've tried to contribute with welcoming newcomers and answering what I can to promote site.
I don't like the idea everything has to be one way or you are dumbass. Its been that way with everything here CAI, exhaust, switches etc.
I still don't know why manipulating the axle other ways is okay? and my way puts the world at risk and shorten my life span.

 

[CHeYeNNe71]

What a friendly place to be, especially when I agreed with you. I wonder what the response would have been if I disagreed? I even offered a parade with balloons
I came here to learn about specifics of the ram 1500. I've tried to contribute with welcoming newcomers and answering what I can to promote site.
I don't like the idea everything has to be one way or you are dumbass. Its been that way with everything here CAI, exhaust, switches etc.
I still don't know why manipulating the axle other ways is okay? and my way puts the world at risk and shorten my life span.

Why do you think the max you see is 3.5" lifts without cutting the crossmember with any lift companies. People are giving you advice and you choose to as mention FAFO. G'luck with it.

 

[Scram1500]

In addition to the cv angle, you'll be stretching your brake lines like a rubber band. Let me know when your on the road so I can stay home

 

[RAM REAPER MAN]

In addition to the cv angle, you'll be stretching your brake lines like a rubber band. Let me know when your on the road so I can stay home

Thank you for the legit info. I don't even have spacers, but I've got a Falcon shock/strut kit which I'm going to install first and see where I'm at.
Does anyone realize this started because of a thought I had? That is just crazy. I came here to learn and contribute. Perhaps, I'm in the wrong place.
All this hate and superiority is completely unnecessary and is not attractive newcomers.
I've worked on BMW's and Ford diesels most my life until I found out I had stage 4 cancer. I have a very good understanding of vehicles

 

[G Gerard]

(see attachment)

Saw this on Instagram, 2019 Laramie with a 2 inch leveling kit, Fuel Lethal wheels and 35 inch Toyo Open Country M/T's

Very Sharp. What a difference just a 2" lift does!

 

[H2OMAN]

you're wasting your breathe.
some people lack listening abilities and have to FAFO the hard way. they don't understand why things are done a certain way and not done a certain way. they are all about the look over the function. "not running baja" or "not offroading hard" is like a magic phrase that exempt them from physics and mechanical science.

sometimes it takes death of a loved one or major financial loss to learn why mickey mousing is not good idea.

I know but I like to think that some will listen. In the end it's no skin off me. Do whatever to your truck but I don't like it when people endanger others due to their inability to understand.

 

[RAM REAPER MAN]

Why do you think the max you see is 3.5" lifts without cutting the crossmember with any lift companies. People are giving you advice and you choose to as mention FAFO. G'luck with it.

Thank you I need all the luck I can get.
Why is it ok that Mopar uses spacers?
Why is it okay in all these other circumstances?
So far I got CV joints and brake lines and look how many replies were useful
I've even agreed with you, but still the bashing goes on.
I'm 100% sure you have knowledge I need and I'm 100% sure I have as well that you need. Its a sad thing
You have a very destructive click here which can celebrate running off another member if I do. This is so stupid
How did this post below create such hate?

"I've got a falcon shock/strut kit I need to install. Its adjustable from stock to 2.25 lift. My plan in my head is to get a 2 inch spacer so it should be able to see a 4.25 inch lift. If it actually plays out that way is another story, but its going to happen soon."

 

[LITTLEREBEL]

Thank you I need all the luck I can get.
Why is it ok that Mopar uses spacers?
Why is it okay in all these other circumstances?
So far I got CV joints and brake lines and look how many replies were useful
I've even agreed with you, but still the bashing goes on.
I'm 100% sure you have knowledge I need and I'm 100% sure I have as well that you need. Its a sad thing
You have a very destructive click here which can celebrate running off another member if I do. This is so stupid
How did this post below create such hate?

"I've got a falcon shock/strut kit I need to install. Its adjustable from stock to 2.25 lift. My plan in my head is to get a 2 inch spacer so it should be able to see a 4.25 inch lift. If it actually plays out that way is another story, but its going to happen soon."

Those are just the self proclaimed experts that hate their life as much as puck lifts. Don't pay them any mind. From what I've learned is 2.5 is the max puck to be used for cv angle and as far as brake lines being stretched out, I have a 2" body lift on top of a 2.5 puck lift with no stretched brake lines. Be sure to get adjustable upper control arms to help with alignment. BTW I have over 50k miles and haven't exploded or killed grandma. You will be fine with your plan.

 

[boogielander]

What a friendly place to be, especially when I agreed with you. I wonder what the response would have been if I disagreed? I even offered a parade with balloons
I came here to learn about specifics of the ram 1500. I've tried to contribute with welcoming newcomers and answering what I can to promote site.
I don't like the idea everything has to be one way or you are dumbass. Its been that way with everything here CAI, exhaust, switches etc.
I still don't know why manipulating the axle other ways is okay? and my way puts the world at risk and shorten my life span.

it does not matter whether you have agreed with me in the past or not, facts are facts. i don't respond kindly or friendly to people who mickey mouse things or ignore warnings. That's just the way I am. Sorry that hurt your feelings. I say things have to be done one way or it's wrong BECAUSE I'VE SEEN THINGS THAT GO WRONG AND END UP CAUSING OWNERS MORE MONEY. I am the guy who gets paid to fix issues caused by spacer lifts, chinesum lights and switch panels, and poor ride quality from likes of RC, Falcon, readylift, etc. God damn it baffles me that people pay much money to learn the hard way and I offer FREE advice here BEFORE people make mistakes and they don't listen.

I only be "nice" and "friendly" to people who do things correctly. If i was an as* then I'd be like that little rebel guy, encouraging you to do things the most mickey mouse poverty way possible because it worked out for him for now while ignoring the concept of "everything is fine until it isn't." And I am trying to get you NOT to get to the "it isn't" part. Hell, if I was an *** I'd even sell you what you want at a discount so I can make a quick buck like some internet salesman, then if you're coming to my shop I'd charge you for install and then extra for fixing it. There, you want the "friendly" and "nice" to get you to do something wrong or "tough and strict" for you to avoid catastrophic failures?

engineering and suspension geometry is mostly the same for IFS applications, regardless of platform. an IFS on a RAM is not gonna be different from an IFS from a Toyota, ford, nissan, or GM, basic concepts are the same. It has been explained numerous times, CV angle is the problem. you will need diff drop to make it work, at that point, you might as well just buy a 4" plus kit instead of doing things the way you described, because that's mickey mouse. And if you want to do 4" plus kits with diff drop, then you put your ground clearance back down, which means you're just doing work for no gain other than to look like a 2500 power wagon with stock suspension. Once the diff drop kit goes on, there's no turning back because the stock lower arm mounts are chopped.

without doing all that, you WILL bind your CV and front diff, and if that happens and something snaps, you're gonna be replacing the diff and the axle. which costs $$$. and that is assuming you're lucky that the diff and the CV don't bind and lock up causing you to crash.

there's nothing more to "innovate" because... science. at this point im genuinely confused: seems like you don't lack money to do it the proper way (since you said you'll gonna go through 3-4 different setups by the time you're done) and yet you choose to buy cheap parts (falcon) and do things the most half-assed and mickey mouse way possible (falcon plus spacers). why not just do it right the first time? Like why do you want to "be different" just for the sake of "being different"?

but you do you, just let everyone else know where you are going so we all can avoid that shenanigan.

 

[CalvinC]

Thank you I need all the luck I can get.
Why is it ok that Mopar uses spacers?
Why is it okay in all these other circumstances?
So far I got CV joints and brake lines and look how many replies were useful
I've even agreed with you, but still the bashing goes on.
I'm 100% sure you have knowledge I need and I'm 100% sure I have as well that you need. Its a sad thing
You have a very destructive click here which can celebrate running off another member if I do. This is so stupid
How did this post below create such hate?

"I've got a falcon shock/strut kit I need to install. Its adjustable from stock to 2.25 lift. My plan in my head is to get a 2 inch spacer so it should be able to see a 4.25 inch lift. If it actually plays out that way is another story, but its going to happen soon."

Take a look at this video, or frankly anything else this guy puts out that you have time to watch.

He takes the time to masterfully explain the concepts that the folks here are only hinting at. I can understand they might be tired of typing out the same thing over and over (as am I), but I don’t understand the hostility or judgment.

The short version is that a double wishbone IFS like all modern half ton trucks use only have a finite range of travel up and down. The higher you level IFS, the further down in that travel your “resting” stance is. Full droop for prolonged periods will wreak havoc on your cob axles - due to both boot rub but also the lessened torque ceiling of a CV joint at an angle.

On top of this, ride quality goes to crap because a) you have essentially no more down travel and b) puck style levels do not allow for any additional up travel. You essentially kill your useful suspension travel.

That is because while a higher level makes the wheel/hub sit lower in its range of travel, the front differential’s location always remains the same. So when you want to raise the front by more than a couple inches a true lift kit is used, which has bracketry to relocate the front differential lower so that the cv angle is same/similar as stock.

Because of the lower LCA mount that results, lift kits also replace the stock spindle/knuckle with a longer one so that UCA and LCA retain a similar degree of parallel-ness as stock (though certainly not to say perfectly parallel, just similar to stock).

Then there’s the matter of extending shock length, where you have options. Cheap option is a giant spacer, typically for use with stock coilovers. This means after all the work and money to install a lift kit you still have no better suspension performance or travel than you had stock. So you go this route for looks essentially. Admittedly it’s not my cup of tea. These are kits like ReadyLift, Rough Country, Maxtrac etc.

Alternatively you use custom extended length coilovers that do not use a spacer to make up the extended space. This allows you to realize some additional travel and performance. These are kits like BDS etc.

But, because a lift kit lowers the front cross member, you end up with no better ground clearance vs a small level, given the same tire size. So a lift kit is really just for clearing the body of the vehicle, whether that be for larger tires (think monster truck or bro-dozer) or off the ground (mud boggers) etc. Or, just for looks.

Finally a good lift kit provides all the little things to avoid binding issues when relocating hard parts - extended brake lines, sway bar links, driveshaft spacers etc.

 

[H2OMAN]

Those are just the self proclaimed experts that hate their life as much as puck lifts. Don't pay them any mind. From what I've learned is 2.5 is the max puck to be used for cv angle and as far as brake lines being stretched out, I have a 2" body lift on top of a 2.5 puck lift with no stretched brake lines. Be sure to get adjustable upper control arms to help with alignment. BTW I have over 50k miles and haven't exploded or killed grandma. You will be fine with your plan.

So, you put a 2 inch puck on top of a 2.5 inch level strut for 50k without damage? Or were you not paying attention to what OP wrote? If you can prove this then I'll crow and take back all I said. Or you need to pay attention prior to writing. A 2 inch body lift isn't anything remotely the same thing.

 

[H2OMAN]

Take a look at this video, or frankly anything else this guy puts out that you have time to watch.

He takes the time to masterfully explain the concepts that the folks here are only hinting at. I can understand they might be tired of typing out the same thing over and over (as am I), but I don’t understand the hostility or judgment.

The short version is that a double wishbone IFS like all modern half ton trucks use only have a finite range of travel up and down. The higher you level IFS, the further down in that travel your “resting” stance is. Full droop for prolonged periods will wreak havoc on your cob axles - due to both boot rub but also the lessened torque ceiling of a CV joint at an angle.

On top of this, ride quality goes to crap because a) you have essentially no more down travel and b) puck style levels do not allow for any additional up travel. You essentially kill your useful suspension travel.

That is because while a higher level makes the wheel/hub sit lower in its range of travel, the front differential’s location always remains the same. So when you want to raise the front by more than a couple inches a true lift kit is used, which has bracketry to relocate the front differential lower so that the cv angle is same/similar as stock.

Because of the lower LCA mount that results, lift kits also replace the stock spindle/knuckle with a longer one so that UCA and LCA retain a similar degree of parallel-ness as stock (though certainly not to say perfectly parallel, just similar to stock).

Then there’s the matter of extending shock length, where you have options. Cheap option is a giant spacer, typically for use with stock coilovers. This means after all the work and money to install a lift kit you still have no better suspension performance or travel than you had stock. So you go this route for looks essentially. Admittedly it’s not my cup of tea. These are kits like ReadyLift, Rough Country, Maxtrac etc.

Alternatively you use custom extended length coilovers that do not use a spacer to make up the extended space. This allows you to realize some additional travel and performance. These are kits like BDS etc.

But, because a lift kit lowers the front cross member, you end up with no better ground clearance vs a small level, given the same tire size. So a lift kit is really just for clearing the body of the vehicle, whether that be for larger tires (think monster truck or bro-dozer) or off the ground (mud boggers) etc. Or, just for looks.

Finally a good lift kit provides all the little things to avoid binding issues when relocating hard parts - extended brake lines, sway bar links, driveshaft spacers etc.

Well said.

 

[RAM REAPER MAN]

Take a look at this video, or frankly anything else this guy puts out that you have time to watch.

He takes the time to masterfully explain the concepts that the folks here are only hinting at. I can understand they might be tired of typing out the same thing over and over (as am I), but I don’t understand the hostility or judgment.

The short version is that a double wishbone IFS like all modern half ton trucks use only have a finite range of travel up and down. The higher you level IFS, the further down in that travel your “resting” stance is. Full droop for prolonged periods will wreak havoc on your cob axles - due to both boot rub but also the lessened torque ceiling of a CV joint at an angle.

On top of this, ride quality goes to crap because a) you have essentially no more down travel and b) puck style levels do not allow for any additional up travel. You essentially kill your useful suspension travel.

That is because while a higher level makes the wheel/hub sit lower in its range of travel, the front differential’s location always remains the same. So when you want to raise the front by more than a couple inches a true lift kit is used, which has bracketry to relocate the front differential lower so that the cv angle is same/similar as stock.

Because of the lower LCA mount that results, lift kits also replace the stock spindle/knuckle with a longer one so that UCA and LCA retain a similar degree of parallel-ness as stock (though certainly not to say perfectly parallel, just similar to stock).

Then there’s the matter of extending shock length, where you have options. Cheap option is a giant spacer, typically for use with stock coilovers. This means after all the work and money to install a lift kit you still have no better suspension performance or travel than you had stock. So you go this route for looks essentially. Admittedly it’s not my cup of tea. These are kits like ReadyLift, Rough Country, Maxtrac etc.

Alternatively you use custom extended length coilovers that do not use a spacer to make up the extended space. This allows you to realize some additional travel and performance. These are kits like BDS etc.

But, because a lift kit lowers the front cross member, you end up with no better ground clearance vs a small level, given the same tire size. So a lift kit is really just for clearing the body of the vehicle, whether that be for larger tires (think monster truck or bro-dozer) or off the ground (mud boggers) etc. Or, just for looks.

Finally a good lift kit provides all the little things to avoid binding issues when relocating hard parts - extended brake lines, sway bar links, driveshaft spacers etc.

I watched the video and that was pretty good stuff thank you. I'm going to watch it again and make sure I understand all of it. I'm not an expert at math or graphs
I specifically bought this system because I didn't want a big lift. I plan on traveling north to see some lake effect snow this winter.

 

[RAM REAPER MAN]

it does not matter whether you have agreed with me in the past or not, facts are facts. i don't respond kindly or friendly to people who mickey mouse things or ignore warnings. That's just the way I am. Sorry that hurt your feelings. I say things have to be done one way or it's wrong BECAUSE I'VE SEEN THINGS THAT GO WRONG AND END UP CAUSING OWNERS MORE MONEY. I am the guy who gets paid to fix issues caused by spacer lifts, chinesum lights and switch panels, and poor ride quality from likes of RC, Falcon, readylift, etc. God damn it baffles me that people pay much money to learn the hard way and I offer FREE advice here BEFORE people make mistakes and they don't listen.

I only be "nice" and "friendly" to people who do things correctly. If i was an as* then I'd be like that little rebel guy, encouraging you to do things the most mickey mouse poverty way possible because it worked out for him for now while ignoring the concept of "everything is fine until it isn't." And I am trying to get you NOT to get to the "it isn't" part. Hell, if I was an *** I'd even sell you what you want at a discount so I can make a quick buck like some internet salesman, then if you're coming to my shop I'd charge you for install and then extra for fixing it. There, you want the "friendly" and "nice" to get you to do something wrong or "tough and strict" for you to avoid catastrophic failures?

engineering and suspension geometry is mostly the same for IFS applications, regardless of platform. an IFS on a RAM is not gonna be different from an IFS from a Toyota, ford, nissan, or GM, basic concepts are the same. It has been explained numerous times, CV angle is the problem. you will need diff drop to make it work, at that point, you might as well just buy a 4" plus kit instead of doing things the way you described, because that's mickey mouse. And if you want to do 4" plus kits with diff drop, then you put your ground clearance back down, which means you're just doing work for no gain other than to look like a 2500 power wagon with stock suspension. Once the diff drop kit goes on, there's no turning back because the stock lower arm mounts are chopped.

without doing all that, you WILL bind your CV and front diff, and if that happens and something snaps, you're gonna be replacing the diff and the axle. which costs $$$. and that is assuming you're lucky that the diff and the CV don't bind and lock up causing you to crash.

there's nothing more to "innovate" because... science. at this point im genuinely confused: seems like you don't lack money to do it the proper way (since you said you'll gonna go through 3-4 different setups by the time you're done) and yet you choose to buy cheap parts (falcon) and do things the most half-assed and mickey mouse way possible (falcon plus spacers). why not just do it right the first time? Like why do you want to "be different" just for the sake of "being different"?

but you do you, just let everyone else know where you are going so we all can avoid that shenanigan.

It'll take a lot more than that to hurt my feelings. I know how you are you helped me with my switch ordeal.
I want to be clear I am NOT trying to get 4 inches at all period. Its why I bought the kit I did, so get that thought out of your head.
Like I said before it was a thought in my head that just came out and then everyone lost there mind over it. I do NOT have any spacers nor have I ordered any!
I'm going to try and let this rest now. I will post before and after pictures, when its all finished and everyone can judge it then

 

[Backyyrodyy]

Good idea. I'll turn this into one.