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Unfortunately, I haven’t been able to get it to charge anywhere near that with JScan yet. I feel like I must have done something wrong, because it sits around 13.2V, sometimes lower, which is quite low for LFP. When it’s charging, it peaks around 13.6, sometimes 13.7 volts, as reported by the...
It doesn't just look like a TRX: It has the suspension from a TRX. Which will be great on those big whoops you mentioned. Better, I'll bet, than the TRX, because of the reduced, more balanced weight.
So I'd say it's more like the RHO is a TRX without the Hellcat, than a Rebel that looks like a...
Fortunately, I put PPF on right after I got the truck. I've got it on the rockers up to the crease (bottom six inches or so) on the sides and doors, from the front wheel well to the end of the bed. That's in addition to the full hood, A-pillars, and a few other spots, but it's the bottom part of...
I’ve got +1 wheels (295 wide tires), and that picture pretty much sums up how much truck looks after a forest service road, or even a dirt parking lot after a little rain.
I think +12 would have been ideal for me.
I do like the way 0/1 looks, though.
Caveats about lithium under the hood aside, here’s my current alternative to an aux battery: a LiFePO4 starter/deep cycle battery.
I am concerned about temperatures. I’ve got a quartet of Govee Bluetooth thermometers: under the hood next to the battery; another with a corded temperature probe...
As an alternative, I've pre-ordered the Xtrusion Overland XO Skeleton. It's modular, and can be simply a bed rack, a fully enclosed topper (like the RSI Smartcap), or a wedge tent camper (like GoFast Camper, Lone Peak Camper, etc.). It's the camper option that has me most interested.
I'm taking...
Even though I just installed a fancy starting battery, I recognize the truth of what you suggest. It may be the better approach.
So why did I go the lithium route? If it works out, there’s something elegant about the idea of one battery to rule them all. One battery to start the truck, power my...
Prior to 2021, they went by the name Laramie Longhorn Edition. Starting in 2021, they became Limited Longhorn Edition.
But to me it always has been, and always will be, simply Longhorn.
Stock wires wouldn’t reach the terminals. Mostly due to the DL being taller, but also being narrow. The cables had further to reach.
If there’s an alternative to cutting and splicing…now you tell me! 🤪
Here's a shot of the equipment I used to splice the wires, or at least most of it. Most of this I had on hand already, including the crimper, from other projects/misadventures.
Temco dieless crimper; this was the most expensive single item here, at around $80 (I got this refurb a few years...
I have a few more details on the What did you do to your Ram today? thread. Basically, the Dakota Lithium batter has these three advantages:
70-125% higher capacity (135Ah), compared to 60-80 Ah in the Antigravity
Self-heating, for charging below freezing.
Slightly lower price, but...
I added a small Govee thermometer into the engine bay battery box, to track temperatures as I worry about my new LiFePO4 starting battery. It's stuck the the box with 3M Dual Lock, which is like an industrial strength velcro. It's powered by a single AAA battery; the velcro makes it easy to...
Posted in another thread, but I installed a Dakota Lithium 135Ah battery this weekend. I wouldn’t necessarily recommend you follow my lead: this is a Group 24 size battery, not H7 or H8, so it requires extending the battery wires to reach the terminals.
So far, so good. I’ve tweaked some IBS...
I replaced my stock battery with a dual purpose (starter and deep cycle) lithium (LiFePO4) battery. Dakota Lithium 135Ah, 1000 CCA. I need to do some more testing with it and tweak some IBS parameters with JScan, but so far, so good.
I went with Dakota Lithium over Antigravity for three main...
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