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Fox 2.5 DSC Suspension - A Brief Overview, Procedure, and Review of Proper Suspension Setup

Yep..ALL on the ground!!
I told my wife that I'm getting to old and sore to not have a lift. Problem is I'd probably want to put up another garage to better fit that.

With my OEM wheels/tires, I ran the factory recommended 39psi all around..and that did seem spot on (I played around, but found they were right).
My new 285/60R20s calculated to 40psi, but that was definitely to harsh. The 39F keeps the OEM spec and keeps the steering tight (35 sucked imo) and the 35R does have enough "give" to softened up the rear and give a compliant ride.
Once I get the rear ride height back to leveled with the front, I'll try it at 39F/35R and 39F/37R to see what works..my Eibachs needed the "give" whereas the Foxs may need less give for the valving to do it's job..we'll see.
Did I mention..maybe I don't like this sh*t as much as I thought🤷‍♂️ (I had my old setup really dialed in well..it just wasn't up to snuff with the heavier tires on rougher roads. I'll get this setup there too..just gonna take some more work👍
build another garage and put in a lift, then you'll be the go-to guy for all your neighbors' automotive needs!

and yeah play around all that for a bit and see what happens.
 
So Saturday was a LONG frickin day on the truck!
I did decide to swap in the Eibach 1" rear coil springs (E30-27-11-02-02) since the 1.5" coil spacers gave me about 0.5" rake..and I prefer Level.
BAD IDEA!!
So, I have NO idea what the deal is with the Eibach coils, but the rear of my truck ended up being about 1/4" LOWER than my OEM coils without any spacers..Carolina-style!!😡
I can't figure out how a 1" Lift coil can end up lower than my OEM coils!
Anyways, thankfully I have billet spacers in 0.125", 0.5", 1", and 1.5".
So I went back to my OEM coils (the RR has the top coil cut off to help L-R Level the back) with the 1" spacers (and I added a 0.125" under the LR 1" spacer) and BINGO, I'm nearly balanced and leveled again! Plus, my +1" Core4x4 rear endlinks have my Eibach swaybar dead level to the ground, and my Thuren trackbar/control arms are level or nearly again, so the geometry is pretty optimal.
I have a 1/8" Left Lean F&R and 1/8" rake..this is with a FULL tank of gas..my Eibachs were about that also at FULL tank, and then at 1/3 tank the Left Lean drops to Zero F and 1/16" R and the rake increases a 1/16-1/8". I expect the Fox are going to do the same.
I left the tires at 39psi F & 35psi R and won't mess with that until after getting an alignment..if I change it at all..it seemed very good with my Eibach suspension.
So far I tried 3L/4H, 2L/3H, and am now at 3L/3H and won't mess with that either until after getting an alignment, since its pretty good based on the limited test miles I did today.
One more time for @boogielander , I definitely lied a bit about liking suspension work! It is gratifying once it's done right and it's working well..but man is it ever frustrating at times! A car lift is definitely in my future.
I'll post some pics on Monday.
 
So Saturday was a LONG frickin day on the truck!
I did decide to swap in the Eibach 1" rear coil springs (E30-27-11-02-02) since the 1.5" coil spacers gave me about 0.5" rake..and I prefer Level.
BAD IDEA!!
So, I have NO idea what the deal is with the Eibach coils, but the rear of my truck ended up being about 1/4" LOWER than my OEM coils without any spacers..Carolina-style!!😡
I can't figure out how a 1" Lift coil can end up lower than my OEM coils!
Anyways, thankfully I have billet spacers in 0.125", 0.5", 1", and 1.5".
So I went back to my OEM coils (the RR has the top coil cut off to help L-R Level the back) with the 1" spacers (and I added a 0.125" under the LR 1" spacer) and BINGO, I'm nearly balanced and leveled again! Plus, my +1" Core4x4 rear endlinks have my Eibach swaybar dead level to the ground, and my Thuren trackbar/control arms are level or nearly again, so the geometry is pretty optimal.
I have a 1/8" Left Lean F&R and 1/8" rake..this is with a FULL tank of gas..my Eibachs were about that also at FULL tank, and then at 1/3 tank the Left Lean drops to Zero F and 1/16" R and the rake increases a 1/16-1/8". I expect the Fox are going to do the same.
I left the tires at 39psi F & 35psi R and won't mess with that until after getting an alignment..if I change it at all..it seemed very good with my Eibach suspension.
So far I tried 3L/4H, 2L/3H, and am now at 3L/3H and won't mess with that either until after getting an alignment, since its pretty good based on the limited test miles I did today.
One more time for @boogielander , I definitely lied a bit about liking suspension work! It is gratifying once it's done right and it's working well..but man is it ever frustrating at times! A car lift is definitely in my future.
I'll post some pics on Monday.
Sorry for your frustration dude.
 
So Saturday was a LONG frickin day on the truck!
I did decide to swap in the Eibach 1" rear coil springs (E30-27-11-02-02) since the 1.5" coil spacers gave me about 0.5" rake..and I prefer Level.
BAD IDEA!!
So, I have NO idea what the deal is with the Eibach coils, but the rear of my truck ended up being about 1/4" LOWER than my OEM coils without any spacers..Carolina-style!!😡
I can't figure out how a 1" Lift coil can end up lower than my OEM coils!
Anyways, thankfully I have billet spacers in 0.125", 0.5", 1", and 1.5".
So I went back to my OEM coils (the RR has the top coil cut off to help L-R Level the back) with the 1" spacers (and I added a 0.125" under the LR 1" spacer) and BINGO, I'm nearly balanced and leveled again! Plus, my +1" Core4x4 rear endlinks have my Eibach swaybar dead level to the ground, and my Thuren trackbar/control arms are level or nearly again, so the geometry is pretty optimal.
I have a 1/8" Left Lean F&R and 1/8" rake..this is with a FULL tank of gas..my Eibachs were about that also at FULL tank, and then at 1/3 tank the Left Lean drops to Zero F and 1/16" R and the rake increases a 1/16-1/8". I expect the Fox are going to do the same.
I left the tires at 39psi F & 35psi R and won't mess with that until after getting an alignment..if I change it at all..it seemed very good with my Eibach suspension.
So far I tried 3L/4H, 2L/3H, and am now at 3L/3H and won't mess with that either until after getting an alignment, since its pretty good based on the limited test miles I did today.
One more time for @boogielander , I definitely lied a bit about liking suspension work! It is gratifying once it's done right and it's working well..but man is it ever frustrating at times! A car lift is definitely in my future.
I'll post some pics on Monday.
man... that's a lot of work done! but i'm glad you got it worked out!
 
man... that's a lot of work done! but i'm glad you got it worked out!
Yep, thanks much!
I never expected to have to redo the rear suspension twice in one day, but thankfully I hedged my bets and hadn't cleaned and put anything away, so I was able to take a quick spin to be sure, and then went right back at it to redo it again.
After the rear was done, I went back and loosened the F-UCAs mounts & lower shock mounts slightly to make sure they were settled sufficiently and then retorqued them.
Today, I did the same to the rear shock lower mount bolts..and replaced the lower endlink bolts/washers/nuts to a higher grade that I had from other past sets.
Tomorrow morning I'll run over the the shop that I have do my alignments and get scheduled for that..I can see both are positive cambered and have too much Toe-In now..actually handles ok, but not optimal..certainly not tread wear friendly😁
I'm looking forward to aligning it and then getting the valving dialed in..and enjoying!
**I've mentioned on the Forum that if my exhaust manifolds crack, or maybe if even not, that I'm going straight to Stainless Works LT headers and their 3" true-dual exhaust..but NOT until/unless I have that lift!! I've done that on jackstands WAY too many times, not anymore..although, I've never had as much ground clearance as the Ram, so..🤔😉😝
...OR, maybe I should stop f-ing around with my truck..nah, as much as it can be a pain, I really do love modding.
 
Today's info...
I adjusted down the valving to 1L/1H at all four corners and now the ride is about the same as my Eibach Pro-Truck struts/shocks were at low speeds/smooth roads/mild bumps, but they are definitely better on rougher roads/bumps/etc than the Eibachs, which is the reason I wanted these PEs, so that's good!
This morning at 3/3, 2/3, 2/2, I was sure that tomorrow I'd be taking the Fox all back off and putting my Eibachs back on (I'm not fully certain I still won't at some point, but hope not to..I do kinda wish I had left it as with the Eibachs).
My Eibachs were dead level, which I like. The Fox have about a 1/4" rake and 1/8" left lean, which I'm not jazzed about..but an alignment may help that a bit.
Overall, the low mph, high mph, and rough roads are quite comfortable now with Foxs.
On 1L/1H there is the slightest brake dive and body roll that I didn't have with the digressive Eibachs..not bad though..but 2/2 or maybe 2/1 will improve that slightly without giving up the comfort too much.
I've got an alignment appt 10 days from now to decide if I'm staying with Foxs or going back to Eibachs.

20251020_133612.jpg
 
Yep, thanks much!
I never expected to have to redo the rear suspension twice in one day, but thankfully I hedged my bets and hadn't cleaned and put anything away, so I was able to take a quick spin to be sure, and then went right back at it to redo it again.
After the rear was done, I went back and loosened the F-UCAs mounts & lower shock mounts slightly to make sure they were settled sufficiently and then retorqued them.
Today, I did the same to the rear shock lower mount bolts..and replaced the lower endlink bolts/washers/nuts to a higher grade that I had from other past sets.
Tomorrow morning I'll run over the the shop that I have do my alignments and get scheduled for that..I can see both are positive cambered and have too much Toe-In now..actually handles ok, but not optimal..certainly not tread wear friendly😁
I'm looking forward to aligning it and then getting the valving dialed in..and enjoying!
**I've mentioned on the Forum that if my exhaust manifolds crack, or maybe if even not, that I'm going straight to Stainless Works LT headers and their 3" true-dual exhaust..but NOT until/unless I have that lift!! I've done that on jackstands WAY too many times, not anymore..although, I've never had as much ground clearance as the Ram, so..🤔😉😝
...OR, maybe I should stop f-ing around with my truck..nah, as much as it can be a pain, I really do love modding.
hahahah
at least you didn't give it a middle finger like i did!
 
missed opportunity LOL
Wellllll, I'm not done yet, so who knows!
I just can't reason out these Foxs.
I'm actually completely open on all four L/H to get a reasonably soft, comfortable ride..that would be similar to my Eibachs were. The large cracks & bumps are better than the Eibachs though.
I'm just surprised that I'm at the bottom of adjustment range to get that ride..and I'm really only about 3/4" lifted in Front over what my Eibachs were (which means 2.25" actual lift from the 3" PEs..my Eibach Clip#2 0.6 + ORP 1" was ~1.625" initially but settled to 1.5" leveled lift after a year).

My corner heights now are...
LF 39.75" RF 39.75"
LR 39.875" RR 40.125"

The Left side looks leveled as before (only 1/8" rake), but the Right side doesn't (the 3/8" rake is noticable to me)..the 1/4" rear Left Lean is barely noticable.
I want to get that RR corner dropped 1/4", but that's easier said than done. If I have the 1" spacer machined down to 3/4", it'll bottom on the metal spring locator ring on the axle..there is maybe 1/8" gap now at best, so I'd have to grind down the top of that locator ring to clearance a 3/4" spacer puck to sit on the axle pad not the ring..and I'm loathe to that idea!

Few possible solutions...
(1) I do have a 0.5" billet lipped ring spacer that I could swap for the 1" puck spacer on the RR. It would over-lower the RR by 1/8" (0.375" rake on Right side) and the 1/4" Left Lean should then be a 1/4" Right Lean ..although that RR never drops as much as it should, so maybe it'd level it.
(1+) I could also pull the extra 1/8" spacer disc I put under the LR 1" puck spacer and add it under the RR 0.5" lipped ring spacer (it'd mean having to pull the LR spring also..extra work, but rear has to be lowered for RR spacer swap anyways).
In theory, this should drop the LR by 1/8" and then the RR would only drop by 3/8", instead of 0.5", and then all corners should be 39.75" on paper/in theory..but in practice, the front will probably sag/drop slightly with the rear drop, but it should be very close to four corner level(?)!
(2)I do have an extra (correct PN) OEM rear spring that had cut a half coil off as a tester. My current RR has one full coil cut off, and it lowers the RR corner by 0.5" (that's how thick the coil "wire" is, and the top two coils are stacked under weight). My truck had 0.625-0.75" Left Lean from the factory.
I could cut this coil to be 1.25 or 1.5 cut off the top. One issue is that the spring will clock differently on the axle pad side then..and the top of the spring may not technically be stacked anymore, or as much, and that might unbalance the ride(??) since the OEM springs are dual rate, or at least dual coil spacing.
This option is more unknown since it's not cutting more than a full stacked coil, so could mean a couple in/out/cuts and maybe wouldn't work in the end.

I've gotten pretty skilled at Ram suspension swaps, so as much as I'm not really liking all this work I can/will do it in order to try to keep the Fox as my suspension.

Option (1) probably won't work because the of the L Lean becoming a R Lean(?).
So Option (1+) is probably the best option as it would seem to perfectly match all four corners at 39.75", that RR corner never seems to drop as much as expected.
I'm feeling a double middle fingers gesture coming at some point here as I'm not enjoying too much (maybe beer needs to be part of this job)🤔
 
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Seem like a lot of stress and for me overthinking for so little. I'm glad I'm not going for that. I'd light a match :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 
Seem like a lot of stress and for me overthinking for so little. I'm glad I'm not going for that. I'd light a match :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
I am DEFINITELY a chronic overthinker..more time thinking & planning than the actual doing!😝

BUT...I did go with Option 1+, and IT WORKED!!

First I removed the 1/8" spacer disc from under the 1" puck spacer on the LR.
Next I removed the 1" puck spacer from the RR and replaced it with 0.5" lipped ring spacer and put the 1/8" spacer disc under it.
That basically lowered the LR by 1/8" and the RR by 3/8", and now I'm almost perfectly leveled (except that damn RR, again!).

I'm now leveled at...
LF 39.75" RF 39.75"
LR 39.75" RR 39.75"(+1/16-3/32")

I'm running 39psi F and 35psi, so the rear tires are squatted a hair (maybe an eight inch). If I aired them up to 39 to tow, haul, or ??, the rear would be fractionally higher than the front.

I tried Full Open on L/H with the new leveled attitude and the back was a bit bouncy, so I dialed up all four to 1L/0H and the corners/steering tightened up and the ride got much better..I'm pleasantly happy that large bumps, crack, holes, etc are smooth, comfortable, and hardly noticable..especially so the faster you go! My Eibachs were good on smooth and slightly rough. The Fox are now slightly better on smooth and WAY better on rougher roads. I'll try 1L/1H next, but think I'll be staying low on valving.

Next Thursday I'm getting it aligned and hopefully that'll be it suspensiin wise..I pretty much have EVERYTHING I could..except SuspensionMaxx Front swaybar endlinks..I'll pick some up at some point (I'm not super sold on the design, but there really aren't any other decent options).

So, maybe I'm back to liking to do suspension work🤥🤫

Storming outside now, so side pic to follow tomorrow, but heres' rear underbody shot...

20251021_134229.jpg20251021_134333.jpg
 
I am DEFINITELY a chronic overthinker..more time thinking & planning than the actual doing!😝

BUT...I did go with Option 1+, and IT WORKED!!

First I removed the 1/8" spacer disc from under the 1" puck spacer on the LR.
Next I removed the 1" puck spacer from the RR and replaced it with 0.5" lipped ring spacer and put the 1/8" spacer disc under it.
That basically lowered the LR by 1/8" and the RR by 3/8", and now I'm almost perfectly leveled (except that damn RR, again!).

I'm now leveled at...
LF 39.75" RF 39.75"
LR 39.75" RR 39.75"(+1/16-3/32")

I'm running 39psi F and 35psi, so the rear tires are squatted a hair (maybe an eight inch). If I aired them up to 39 to tow, haul, or ??, the rear would be fractionally higher than the front.

I tried Full Open on L/H with the new leveled attitude and the back was a bit bouncy, so I dialed up all four to 1L/0H and the corners/steering tightened up and the ride got much better..I'm pleasantly happy that large bumps, crack, holes, etc are smooth, comfortable, and hardly noticable..especially so the faster you go! My Eibachs were good on smooth and slightly rough. The Fox are now slightly better on smooth and WAY better on rougher roads. I'll try 1L/1H next, but think I'll be staying low on valving.

Next Thursday I'm getting it aligned and hopefully that'll be it suspensiin wise..I pretty much have EVERYTHING I could..except SuspensionMaxx Front swaybar endlinks..I'll pick some up at some point (I'm not super sold on the design, but there really aren't any other decent options).

So, maybe I'm back to liking to do suspension work🤥🤫

Storming outside now, so side pic to follow tomorrow, but heres' rear underbody shot...

View attachment 207035View attachment 207036
damn dude all that work lol
i mean most trucks and body on frame SUVs will not achieve "100% full level on all corners" and that has been the accepted tradeoff for the industry but you pulled it off.

it's like doing alignment... when I had my friend do my alignment years ago he said "the key to do alignment is to get the numbers as close as possible and if the vehicle drives straight then it's all good. there's no point to try to make the numbers look pretty and exact" then proceed to spend an hour matching numbers left and right LOL

but hey at least you have a nice garage to do this work in.
 
damn dude all that work lol
i mean most trucks and body on frame SUVs will not achieve "100% full level on all corners" and that has been the accepted tradeoff for the industry but you pulled it off.

it's like doing alignment... when I had my friend do my alignment years ago he said "the key to do alignment is to get the numbers as close as possible and if the vehicle drives straight then it's all good. there's no point to try to make the numbers look pretty and exact" then proceed to spend an hour matching numbers left and right LOL

but hey at least you have a nice garage to do this work in.
At the end of the day (or project), I do love to get a suspension dialed in..and just doing mods in general. So I figure if I can do it, I will..then I get to enjoy the fruits of my labor👍
I've got two garages..my other one is my "shop", but it's outfitted for cars/cycles, and the truck is too tight in there..hence, I need a building with a lift🤗
 

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