Fox 2.5 DSC Suspension - A Brief Overview, Procedure, and Review of Proper Suspension Setup

[boogielander]

I'm feeling 2-2.5L and 2R, but am sure I will be adjust ride height, valving, and tire psi forever to get happiness
I LOVE THIS SH*T though!

keep up with that enthusiasm LOL

 

[CHeYeNNe71]

you should be ok with the non HD coils.
i think they'll give a tad bit under 2.5" (advertised 2.5") becuase our bed are heavier than the JT bed
and i don't think it matters if it was DT or JT, 2.5" is 2.5" lol

Yeah I'm thinking that's a next year project. I've spent enough this year and $300ish for another 1.5" give or take.... I'll wait

 

[boogielander]

Yeah I'm thinking that's a next year project. I've spent enough this year and $300ish for another 1.5" give or take.... I'll wait

yeah just let it settle a bit. heck maybe you'll do an Arctic run next year and then come back realizing you need all 4 springs lol

 

[Ready Go]

I installed the Thuren Rear Trackbar last week and the Thuren Rear U/L CAs today...fairly easy job, I ran the truck up on ramps for more room to work.
Using a 1" Torque wrench was still nearly impossible to get leverage with one hand and wrench on the other, so after torquing first nut to 215ft/lbs as Thuren recommends for all U/L CA bolts/nuts, I resorting to using my Ryobi High Torque Impact to remove..and install all the bolts/nuts. My UCs have solid steel ball joints, so you can't really over torque them.
Anyways..HOLY CRAP!!!
The difference in how solid, and fluid, and smooth, and planted the rearend is now was immediately noticable before I even got out of the driveway!!
The rearend feels smoother than the front end now..crazy!!
Strangely, the posi wants to spin the inside tire now in tight accelerating corners..old truck did that as it was lighter, but not this one until now!! Must be putting power down better since less rearend movements(??).
Bumps are so smooth..and NO more stretch, slingshot, double bounce anymore..just smooth, controlled movements..the tires and shocks are actually doing their job without annoying movements!!
I can absolutely feel how loose and stretchy the front U/L CAs are now. Fortunately, I'll be swapping in the Thuren Front UCAs in a few weeks when I swap in the Fox 2.5 PE DSCs to relieve some of that.
Honestly, I feel like the Foxs aren't really needed now, but I've got them so might as well try for the next level of comfort, but I'm actually not unhappy with my Eibach Pro-Trucks anymore.
(One deviation I made..I wanted ALL my Zerks facing downwards, so I removed the Thuren stickers, flipped the Lower CAs upside down, added new stickers, and installed then that way..there is no reason I can work out that this would cause a problem. I removed the L side cable bracket to clearance the gas tank, but that probably wasn't necessary).

THUREN is amazing

 

[CHeYeNNe71]

Congrats on the upgrade! I'm still looking forward to swapping my rear arms, seems weather is finally breaking here, or HOPEFULLY!!

 

[boogielander]

I installed the Thuren Rear Trackbar last week and the Thuren Rear U/L CAs today...fairly easy job, I ran the truck up on ramps for more room to work.
Using a 1" Torque wrench was still nearly impossible to get leverage with one hand and wrench on the other, so after torquing first nut to 215ft/lbs as Thuren recommends for all U/L CA bolts/nuts, I resorting to using my Ryobi High Torque Impact to remove..and install all the bolts/nuts. My UCs have solid steel ball joints, so you can't really over torque them.
Anyways..HOLY CRAP!!!
The difference in how solid, and fluid, and smooth, and planted the rearend is now was immediately noticable before I even got out of the driveway!!
The rearend feels smoother than the front end now..crazy!!
Strangely, the posi wants to spin the inside tire now in tight accelerating corners..old truck did that as it was lighter, but not this one until now!! Must be putting power down better since less rearend movements(??).
Bumps are so smooth..and NO more stretch, slingshot, double bounce anymore..just smooth, controlled movements..the tires and shocks are actually doing their job without annoying movements!!
I can absolutely feel how loose and stretchy the front U/L CAs are now. Fortunately, I'll be swapping in the Thuren Front UCAs in a few weeks when I swap in the Fox 2.5 PE DSCs to relieve some of that.
Honestly, I feel like the Foxs aren't really needed now, but I've got them so might as well try for the next level of comfort, but I'm actually not unhappy with my Eibach Pro-Trucks anymore.
(One deviation I made..I wanted ALL my Zerks facing downwards, so I removed the Thuren stickers, flipped the Lower CAs upside down, added new stickers, and installed then that way..there is no reason I can work out that this would cause a problem. I removed the L side cable bracket to clearance the gas tank, but that probably wasn't necessary).

THUREN is amazing

View attachment 204687View attachment 204688View attachment 204689View attachment 204690

this is when i say "i told ya so" LOLLL
hmm maybe i'll do it then just because i need to find something to do

 

[Ready Go]

this is when i say "i told ya so" LOLLL
hmm maybe i'll do it then just because i need to find something to do

Some of our Wisco roads can feel like off roading, but you more than most would probably be amazed at how your boogielanding could be faster and next level.

I used my first JJ-style CAs from Global West (delrin bushed) on a couple Camaros over 15 years ago..and have been a huge fan of them ever since..they can transform a solid axle car into feeling almost independent.

Thuren says they worked with Creative Steel to get the Poly compound just right for their JJ bushings for the right rigidity, movement, wear, and NVH..and recommend and sell Creative Steel's Polyurethane Bushing Grease to go with their CAs. They like it better than RednTacky, so I bought and used it.

Concrete and road cracks mostly disappear now, and bumps are just bumps..subdued, smooth, and no secondary rebound or movements.

The rear CAs are $880 and the trackbar is $240..and to me, are worth every cent!

I'm actually considering swapping in the Thuren Front UCAs before doing the Fox PEs, just to document how much difference the full Thuren suspension "package" makes on it's own. Swapping just the UCAs wouldn't be that difficult, I just have to find the time. The next two weeks of Wisco summer are going to be very busy, so Foxs won't be for a few weeks yet (man, I really am getting old..in my younger days, I couldn't wait a day with new parts)

I should mention, I'm running 5psi in my Airlift bags, and have settled on 39psi F & 35psi R in my 285/60 Ascents..especially now, this seems to be best balance, comfort, and handling for me.

Super freakin happy with the Thurens!

 

[CHeYeNNe71]

(man, I really am getting old..in my younger days, I couldn't wait a day with new parts)

I Feel this....

 

[boogielander]

Some of our Wisco roads can feel like off roading, but you more than most would probably be amazed at how your boogielanding could be faster and next level.

I used my first JJ-style CAs from Global West (delrin bushed) on a couple Camaros over 15 years ago..and have been a huge fan of them ever since..they can transform a solid axle car into feeling almost independent.

Thuren says they worked with Creative Steel to get the Poly compound just right for their JJ bushings for the right rigidity, movement, wear, and NVH..and recommend and sell Creative Steel's Polyurethane Bushing Grease to go with their CAs. They like it better than RednTacky, so I bought and used it.

Concrete and road cracks mostly disappear now, and bumps are just bumps..subdued, smooth, and no secondary rebound or movements.

The rear CAs are $880 and the trackbar is $240..and to me, are worth every cent!

I'm actually considering swapping in the Thuren Front UCAs before doing the Fox PEs, just to document how much difference the full Thuren suspension "package" makes on it's own. Swapping just the UCAs wouldn't be that difficult, I just have to find the time. The next two weeks of Wisco summer are going to be very busy, so Foxs won't be for a few weeks yet (man, I really am getting old..in my younger days, I couldn't wait a day with new parts)

I should mention, I'm running 5psi in my Airlift bags, and have settled on 39psi F & 35psi R in my 285/60 Ascents..especially now, this seems to be best balance, comfort, and handling for me.

Super freakin happy with the Thurens!

currently i have absolute zero complain about the rear suspension. i think it's because with all the weight and stuff they actually help with keep the rear in check.
even when I go boogie (as seen in the videos I posted a while back), my issues were more with the front (rubbing when landing and suspension being compressed due to too soft springs - and possibly the sag too) whereas the rear has been nothing but good.

probably will wait a bit till i order the arms for the rear though, it's hot af and I don't wanna work on anything outside of my working hours till it cools down LOL

 

[boogielander]

Clayton 2.5" HD Triple Rate springs barely squatted with camper and the regular weight PLUS the trailer. I have no idea how heavy that trailer is though. Truck pulled it like it's not there so... probably not too much LOL

 

[Ready Go]

FINALLY..prepping to install the Fox 2.5 PE DSCs, Thuren Front UCAs, and Eibach 1" Rear Coil Springs.

I noticed the locking collar on the Left side one has the locking bolt facing the backside, so I'm gonna spin the Left one 180° to face out (should lower ~1/16") and also spin the Right one 360° to remain facing out (should lower ~1/8") so that both sides have the locking bolt facing outwards..in case the ride heights isn't where I want it once installed.

I spoke to Jeff at Fox and he's never heard of anyone adjusting height on the vehicle, but said if a spring compressor fits, it could be possible..as long as suspension is unloaded, and adjusting to lower the ride height (raising would be tougher to do). I do have two different spring compressors and verified one will easily fit/work..I'll use them to slightly compress the CO coils to take the pressure of the locking collar to be able to adjust them.

Of course, he said they should be taken off the truck to adjust as threads could get damaged or even wiped off otherwise! Lots of extra work if I really want to dial in the exact height I'd like. Jeff advised putting in the Fronts first..seeing where the height is, then adjust the Rear height to match what I want because it's easier to do the Rears (I do have 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and 1" rear coil spacers..and could machine the 1/2" or 1" to what I need also).

Jeff thinks that the Factory "As set" 3.0" lift WON'T be what I get since my Larry is the 5.7 Etorque and heavily optioned..he thinks 2.5"-2.75"..GREAT, more confusion! He said a 6cyl would be 3.0".

I think @CHeYeNNe71 may be under the 3.0" even though he's set a Factory 15 threads on the 3" BDS kit, but @mplaramie and others seem to be at the 3.0" lift(??).

My Eibach struts set on Clip#2 (0.6") with OEM-matched 1" ORP springs gave 1.625" when installed, but have settled to 1.5" over the last year and 10k miles..so I feel like the Fox should give pretty close lifts to Factory "As set" also.

I may do 1.5 rotations on Left and 2.0 rotations on Right..to balance L-R height and to get to ~2.625-2.75" lift..gonna be about two weeks yet, so have some time to decide..and maybe you all will have some experience/advice to pipe in with.

I did preset the valving at 3L/5H on all four to start with.

 

[H2OMAN]

The rears come with boots now? Interesting.

 

[Ready Go]

The rears come with boots now? Interesting.

Nope, those are Thuren's Black Shock Boots for 2.5" shock bodies.

I'm in Wisconsin, so want to keep salt off the shafts.

I "thought" I had some black CO Shock Covers for the Front PEs, but turns out they're ATV CO Covers, so too small..I may try to buy a pair yet to cover the front shafts & coils. They have a velcro seems, so can be put on after the COs are installed.

Did your PEs install to 3.0" lift, or did you get less? Thanks

 

[H2OMAN]

Ah. Ok. Thanks for the info.

 

[Ready Go]

The Eibach rear coils say 1"-1.5" which would be .5" more than the stock Rebel coils. I didn't think it would actually be 1.5 but it was. And I didn't think I could notice .5 inches by eye. But I can. And... it turns out it doesn't make any difference. They are much more progressive than the stock coils(go figure). Very nice for high speed with no load. Not so great when you have a load. So, I added airbags. Talk about a rabbit hole. So, do your research and decide if it is really something you want to do. Make sure the one's you want are the one's you need.

I'm curious if you know which Eibach rear coil you have?

Is it the 1" Pro-Truck coil E30-27-011-02-02?

I spoke with Harry at Eibach today and he said that spring isn't Linear like the OEMs, but two-step Progressive...top 5 coils are 150lb/in and bottom 4 coils are 300lb/in. He thought OEMs are maybe 200-225lb/in linear, but was kinda guessing(??).

I'm trying to decide if I just use a 1" spacer with my OEM rear springs (RR has top coil cut off to L-R balance the rear end already, and my airbags fit perfectly)..or swap in my OEM-ORP matched 1" rear springs (and cut top coil off RR to L-R balance again, but airbags ill be slightly short)..or go with the Eibach rear coils (and not cut the RR, which would then be 1.5" more than cut OEM RR..and add a 0.5" spacer under the LR for 1.5", again airbags will be slightly short)..BUT, if the Eibach might lift by 1.5", then I've got more to think about. Harry said to expect 1.0" lift and thought that the "Ram Left Lean" would be less than with OEM springs.

I can see that ultimately I'm gonna have to pick some height to go for, either 2.5"F/1.0"R or 3.0"F/1.5"R, and plan on multiple install/uninstalls to get it set..and maybe get taller Airlift bags.

I'm leaning towards 2.5/1.0 over 3.0/1.5 just because the suspesion geometry is better and I don't want to truck to get tipsy or rolly on wavy roads and corners. The PE valving can adjust for this also, but I'd like to be able to set them for comfort as much as possible, and not have to compensate for handling with them.

All my "pre-planning" just makes everything get muddier & muddier! I call these companies and they just create more questions than answers, ugh.

 

[Ready Go]

Ok, so I got the Front and Rear Fox PEs installed along with the Thuren UCAs today.
Thankfully, I decided to install them "As Sent" from Fox, because I got my wish I guess (2.5"F)..I had planned on doing a +1"F/+1"R over what my Eibachs were (+1.5"F/+0"R) originally when I ordered the Fox PEs..I even ordered the Core4x4 rear endlinks for +1" (12.25").
Fox had told me that I probably wouldn't get the "As Advertised" +3.0" Front lift because my Laramie is heavily loaded..they actually said probably 2.5", but maybe as much as 2.75"..turns out I got +1"L(2.5") and +1.125"R(2.625").
Problem is..since my Eibachs on Clip#2 (0.6") with ORP springs (1") gave me 1.6", I figured I get the full 3.0" "As Advertised" not the 2.5" that I actually got..so when I did the rear suspension before the front suspension, I had to pick to either use my 1" coil spacers, 1.5" coil spacers, or go completely new with the +1" Eibach rear coil springs that I also have.
I decided I want to keep my rear ride consistent with what I knew was comfortable, so bet on the 1.5" rear coil spacers..and got a real +1.5" lift in the rear.
It rides and handles fine, but I now have 0.5" rake and I hate the look, so this weekend I'll redo the rear suspension to lower it a half inch.
I'm gonna swap out the 1.5" spacers for the 1" spacers and I should be back to dead level again.
With my previous +1.625" leveled lift, my camber was close to Zero and steering and handling were awesome, but at +2.5" I have a definite Positive camber, so even though the ride and handling aren't bad, it will certainly be better with an alignment.
Because of the +camber, I'll need that alignment pretty quickly..if I had time, I'd maybe think about also swapping in the +1" Eibachs rear coils in place of the +1" rear coil spacers.
Once the alignment is done, I should be able to run the spacers for a while to see what I think, and then swap in the Eibachs since the rear lift would be +1" with either so the alignment shouldn't be affected.

@boogielander ..I know I said I love doing suspension work..I think I lied, I getting too old for this sh*t! And, I get frustrated when I do all kinds of planning..and then I still have to redo my work because of unforseen issues. But modding begets modding..there's no playbook, just trial & error.

I can say that even in this first "trial" setup, the Fox PEs with Thuren UCAs are much smoother over the large cracks/holes/irregularities, which is what I'm doing this swap for! On smooth roads, there really isn't any noticable difference over the F&R Eibach Pro-Trucks & Front ORPs that I had..they were really good..just not on bad roads, especially since the bigger, wider, heavier new wheel/tire setup.

I did limited driving today with all four set to 3L/5H. I readjusted them to 2L/4H for the next limited drive. I won't mess with the valving much until I get the alignment done..then I'll be able to have a better baseline.

Also, I'm currently running 39psi F & 35psi R and I'll play with that some more also. My gut tells me 39F/37R might work better with the Foxs(?), we'll see.

 

[H2OMAN]

Ok, so I got the Front and Rear Fox PEs installed along with the Thuren UCAs today.
Thankfully, I decided to install them "As Sent" from Fox, because I got my wish I guess (2.5"F)..I had planned on doing a +1"F/+1"R over what my Eibachs were (+1.5"F/+0"R) originally when I ordered the Fox PEs..I even ordered the Core4x4 rear endlinks for +1" (12.25").
Fox had told me that I probably wouldn't get the "As Advertised" +3.0" Front lift because my Laramie is heavily loaded..they actually said probably 2.5", but maybe as much as 2.75"..turns out I got +1"L(2.5") and +1.125"R(2.625").
Problem is..since my Eibachs on Clip#2 (0.6") with ORP springs (1") gave me 1.6", I figured I get the full 3.0" "As Advertised" not the 2.5" that I actually got..so when I did the rear suspension before the front suspension, I had to pick to either use my 1" coil spacers, 1.5" coil spacers, or go completely new with the +1" Eibach rear coil springs that I also have.
I decided I want to keep my rear ride consistent with what I knew was comfortable, so bet on the 1.5" rear coil spacers..and got a real +1.5" lift in the rear.
It rides and handles fine, but I now have 0.5" rake and I hate the look, so this weekend I'll redo the rear suspension to lower it a half inch.
I'm gonna swap out the 1.5" spacers for the 1" spacers and I should be back to dead level again.
With my previous +1.625" leveled lift, my camber was close to Zero and steering and handling were awesome, but at +2.5" I have a definite Positive camber, so even though the ride and handling aren't bad, it will certainly be better with an alignment.
Because of the +camber, I'll need that alignment pretty quickly..if I had time, I'd maybe think about also swapping in the +1" Eibachs rear coils in place of the +1" rear coil spacers.
Once the alignment is done, I should be able to run the spacers for a while to see what I think, and then swap in the Eibachs since the rear lift would be +1" with either so the alignment shouldn't be affected.

@boogielander ..I know I said I love doing suspension work..I think I lied, I getting too old for this sh*t! And, I get frustrated when I do all kinds of planning..and then I still have to redo my work because of unforseen issues. But modding begets modding..there's no playbook, just trial & error.

I can say that even in this first "trial" setup, the Fox PEs with Thuren UCAs are much smoother over the large cracks/holes/irregularities, which is what I'm doing this swap for! On smooth roads, there really isn't any noticable difference over the F&R Eibach Pro-Trucks & Front ORPs that I had..they were really good..just not on bad roads, especially since the bigger, wider, heavier new wheel/tire setup.

I did limited driving today with all four set to 3L/5H. I readjusted them to 2L/4H for the next limited drive. I won't mess with the valving much until I get the alignment done..then I'll be able to have a better baseline.

Also, I'm currently running 39psi F & 35psi R and I'll play with that some more also. My gut tells me 39F/37R might work better with the Foxs(?), we'll see.

View attachment 206893View attachment 206894

Great job.

 

[boogielander]

Ok, so I got the Front and Rear Fox PEs installed along with the Thuren UCAs today.
Thankfully, I decided to install them "As Sent" from Fox, because I got my wish I guess (2.5"F)..I had planned on doing a +1"F/+1"R over what my Eibachs were (+1.5"F/+0"R) originally when I ordered the Fox PEs..I even ordered the Core4x4 rear endlinks for +1" (12.25").
Fox had told me that I probably wouldn't get the "As Advertised" +3.0" Front lift because my Laramie is heavily loaded..they actually said probably 2.5", but maybe as much as 2.75"..turns out I got +1"L(2.5") and +1.125"R(2.625").
Problem is..since my Eibachs on Clip#2 (0.6") with ORP springs (1") gave me 1.6", I figured I get the full 3.0" "As Advertised" not the 2.5" that I actually got..so when I did the rear suspension before the front suspension, I had to pick to either use my 1" coil spacers, 1.5" coil spacers, or go completely new with the +1" Eibach rear coil springs that I also have.
I decided I want to keep my rear ride consistent with what I knew was comfortable, so bet on the 1.5" rear coil spacers..and got a real +1.5" lift in the rear.
It rides and handles fine, but I now have 0.5" rake and I hate the look, so this weekend I'll redo the rear suspension to lower it a half inch.
I'm gonna swap out the 1.5" spacers for the 1" spacers and I should be back to dead level again.
With my previous +1.625" leveled lift, my camber was close to Zero and steering and handling were awesome, but at +2.5" I have a definite Positive camber, so even though the ride and handling aren't bad, it will certainly be better with an alignment.
Because of the +camber, I'll need that alignment pretty quickly..if I had time, I'd maybe think about also swapping in the +1" Eibachs rear coils in place of the +1" rear coil spacers.
Once the alignment is done, I should be able to run the spacers for a while to see what I think, and then swap in the Eibachs since the rear lift would be +1" with either so the alignment shouldn't be affected.

@boogielander ..I know I said I love doing suspension work..I think I lied, I getting too old for this sh*t! And, I get frustrated when I do all kinds of planning..and then I still have to redo my work because of unforseen issues. But modding begets modding..there's no playbook, just trial & error.

I can say that even in this first "trial" setup, the Fox PEs with Thuren UCAs are much smoother over the large cracks/holes/irregularities, which is what I'm doing this swap for! On smooth roads, there really isn't any noticable difference over the F&R Eibach Pro-Trucks & Front ORPs that I had..they were really good..just not on bad roads, especially since the bigger, wider, heavier new wheel/tire setup.

I did limited driving today with all four set to 3L/5H. I readjusted them to 2L/4H for the next limited drive. I won't mess with the valving much until I get the alignment done..then I'll be able to have a better baseline.

Also, I'm currently running 39psi F & 35psi R and I'll play with that some more also. My gut tells me 39F/37R might work better with the Foxs(?), we'll see.

View attachment 206893View attachment 206894

very nicely done!
i told ya you wouldn't be disappointed! (also told ya it's not fun to do it on the ground - assuming you did it on the ground - but if you can do it on a lift then that makes it a lot more enjoyable process)
i think 2psi in the back can help a bit but not much. I ran 40 PSI all around before after new spring rates (600lb front, Clayton triple rate HD rear) and it was a bit too much, so went down to 35 psi and it helped. then currently i'm actually at 32-33 PSI (last I aired up was at high elevation and when i came down it dropped). Ride quality improved a bit now compared to at 35 PSI all around, but not a whole lot.
*note: i run equal pressure all around because I use a 4 way hose system to air down and up for simplicity and efficiency. if i don't air up and down a lot then i'd play with different front and rear pressure. to me it makes no sense to do dedicated pressure front and rear when im airing down and up a lot (though... i should probably do that because im not airing down as often now. sometimes when i go camping and go easy trails I just drive through instead of airing down lol just being lazy)

 

[Ready Go]

Great job.

Thanks much!
I might be getting this wrong, but are you running Eibach coils in back? If so, are they 1" or 1.5" lift? I believe Eibach just makes the 1" coils now..which I have, and I'm debating swapping them in instead of swapping in the 1" spacers for the 1.5" ones.
Strangely, I have a little bit of "Left Lean" again. I was almost perfectly level with my Eibach Pro-Trucks (+1/16" RR).
The LF is 1/8" low and the RR is 1/8" high now.
The Thuren UCAs are polyball mounts to frame, so no binding there and I tightened everything to torque specs under weight.
I suspect that when I drop the rear back down to level, the corner balance will tighten up again(?).
Swapping in the rear Eibach coils is an unknown..I've got no idea how they ride compared to stock..softer or stiffer?? They're "one size fits all" compared to my OEMs that are more specific to my truck.

 

[Ready Go]

very nicely done!
i told ya you wouldn't be disappointed! (also told ya it's not fun to do it on the ground - assuming you did it on the ground - but if you can do it on a lift then that makes it a lot more enjoyable process)
i think 2psi in the back can help a bit but not much. I ran 40 PSI all around before after new spring rates (600lb front, Clayton triple rate HD rear) and it was a bit too much, so went down to 35 psi and it helped. then currently i'm actually at 32-33 PSI (last I aired up was at high elevation and when i came down it dropped). Ride quality improved a bit now compared to at 35 PSI all around, but not a whole lot.
*note: i run equal pressure all around because I use a 4 way hose system to air down and up for simplicity and efficiency. if i don't air up and down a lot then i'd play with different front and rear pressure. to me it makes no sense to do dedicated pressure front and rear when im airing down and up a lot (though... i should probably do that because im not airing down as often now. sometimes when i go camping and go easy trails I just drive through instead of airing down lol just being lazy)

Yep..ALL on the ground!!
I told my wife that I'm getting to old and sore to not have a lift. Problem is I'd probably want to put up another garage to better fit that.

With my OEM wheels/tires, I ran the factory recommended 39psi all around..and that did seem spot on (I played around, but found they were right).
My new 285/60R20s calculated to 40psi, but that was definitely to harsh. The 39F keeps the OEM spec and keeps the steering tight (35 sucked imo) and the 35R does have enough "give" to softened up the rear and give a compliant ride.
Once I get the rear ride height back to leveled with the front, I'll try it at 39F/35R and 39F/37R to see what works..my Eibachs needed the "give" whereas the Foxs may need less give for the valving to do it's job..we'll see.
Did I mention..maybe I don't like this sh*t as much as I thought (I had my old setup really dialed in well..it just wasn't up to snuff with the heavier tires on rougher roads. I'll get this setup there too..just gonna take some more work