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5th Gen Stock Stereo Upgrade Options?

YoAdrian

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I just wrapped up a conversation with Crutchfield. I'm curious to see what the experts on here think of this plan.

Their recommendation is as follows:

Direct dash replacement with Infinity Reference REF-3032cfx 3-1/2" 2-way car speakers

Direct 4 door replacements with PowerBass L2-692T 6"x9" 2-way car speakers — designed to replace 2-ohm factory speakers
My system is IMO well balanced volume-wise so I’ll compare my sound and specs to your option.

Note: I wish we had the Ram stock speaker sensitivity ratings but we don’t. Half impedance replacement speakers (4 vs 8 ohm as in the dash) need to be approx -3dB lower sensitivity to be equal volume at same power. Double impedance speakers (4 vs 2 as in our doors) need +3 dB to sound the same. On to the math and specifications!

6x9s
JL C2 6x9s = 4 ohm w/ 93 dB sensitivity (at 1W)
PowerBass L2 6x9s = 2 ohm w/ 89 dB sensitivity (at 1W).
Therefore those 6x9s are really close, maybe a tiny bit quieter, than my JLs.

3.5s:
JL C2 3.5s = 4 ohm w/ 86 dB (at 2.83 W)
Infinity 3032s = 3 ohm w/ 91 dB (at 2.83 W)
Not only lower impedance but also higher sensitivity. Therefore I would estimate the Infinity speakers to be about “two volume clicks” (~6 dB) louder than my 3.5s

Ignoring whether you actually like the sound of those speakers, in the end I would expect that proposed system to have louder 3.5s than mine, which may sound great to you or it may be too much... at this point we enter relativity-land and subjectivity-land.

Importantly I was able to listen to the JLs locally and the one thing I knew was I loved their sound. Good luck, hope this thought process helps you predict how it will sound so you can order something that will work.
 

YoAdrian

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Why not just do the infinity ref in the doors as well
As spec’d at 2.83W:
Infinity REF-9633 = 3 ohm 93 dB
Infinity Kappa 93ix = 2.5 ohm 96 dB
JL C2s = 4 ohm 96 dB

I would expect the Infinity 9633 volume to be close to the PowerBass and JLs. Also higher impedance is nicer for your amp.

@KJC12 I would expect the Kappa 93ix to be louder than all the other 6x9 options we discussed by “a notch”, so they actually might balance better with the louder Infinity 3.5s if you are sold on those... but at a higher price.
 
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KRField

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Kenwood has released a 6x9 mid bass with a 3 1/2 coaxial excelon speaker package that looks very appealing. Just FYI

Five star audio on YouTube just did an install on a 4th gen.

I had excelons coaxials in my old ford and performed very well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Patsy1099

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@YoAdrian does your ANC wiring harness match the diagram that @I Love Grits posted? I have the base 6 speaker setup and I’ve removed the ANC module. I’m looking at the two harnesses for input/output and trying to identify the speaker wires but the color scheme isn’t matching up. I unpinned the anc mics a while back by following one of the diagrams here, might have been yours, and all went smoothly. I just removed the first 4 pairs to the right of the power (red) wire, didn’t pay attention to the color scheme, and all has been good (no anc). But now that I am ready to wire this up and looking at the colors, it doesn’t match. What the heck. Am I missing something simple?

Here’s what my two harnesses look like.
 

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YoAdrian

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@YoAdrian does your ANC wiring harness match the diagram that @I Love Grits posted? I have the base 6 speaker setup and I’ve removed the ANC module. I’m looking at the two harnesses for input/output and trying to identify the speaker wires but the color scheme isn’t matching up. I unpinned the anc mics a while back by following one of the diagrams here, might have been yours, and all went smoothly. I just removed the first 4 pairs to the right of the power (red) wire, didn’t pay attention to the color scheme, and all has been good (no anc). But now that I am ready to wire this up and looking at the colors, it doesn’t match. What the heck. Am I missing something simple?

Here’s what my two harnesses look like.
I think you’re ok there... at least with the first harness (w/ unpinned mikes) which is noted in multiple places as connector “C2” on the diagram around the edge of the ANC box. Check out the attached diagram with my messy black and green flow lines (note #3 and #14 are supposed to be empty)... “follow the bouncing ball” if you will down the connector pins, black line from 1-12, which on your photo goes from bottom right (1-white and 2-bn/gy) to bottom left (12-red power). You need to replace 8-11 for the + mike connections. Same goes for the other side of the plug, green line starting with #13 top right... replace 19-22 for - mikes.

7A955FF7-6884-4917-9136-D79384475E58.jpeg
662174B2-9A6B-4C48-926F-DEAC44BE5B7E.jpeg
 
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YoAdrian

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Stole this from another contributor off of this thread I think, it’s for Alpine but I think it’s the same as ours. If I could remember who made it for the Alpine system I would give them a youdaman shoutout!

21448
 

Patsy1099

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I think you’re ok there... at least with the first harness (w/ unpinned mikes) which is noted in multiple places as connector “C2” on the diagram around the edge of the ANC box. Check out the attached diagram with my messy black and green flow lines (note #3 and #14 are supposed to be empty)... “follow the bouncing ball” if you will down the connector pins, black line from 1-12, which on your photo goes from bottom right (1-white and 2-bn/gy) to bottom left (12-red power). You need to replace 8-11 for the + mike connections. Same goes for the other side of the plug, green line starting with #13 top right... replace 19-22 for - mikes.

View attachment 21446
View attachment 21447

Thanks I will check that out. ANC I’m solid with. Those mice have been disconnected for a while and I’m confident that’s good. What I’m trying to nail down is what colored wires go to what speakers: L/R + - front/rear
Since the diagram doesn’t match and there is also one extra pair in each harness not related to the speakers. Messing me up
 

YoAdrian

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Thanks I will check that out. ANC I’m solid with. Those mice have been disconnected for a while and I’m confident that’s good. What I’m trying to nail down is what colored wires go to what speakers: L/R + - front/rear
Since the diagram doesn’t match and there is also one extra pair in each harness not related to the speakers. Messing me up
Yep, it’s confusing especially while under the seat with a rainbow of fruit flavor wires in your hand. Maybe print this pic from above off and reference while you work.

I think your harness looks fine unless those wires don’t actually go where the map says they should. Of course the fronts get split elsewhere into dash and door. Any idea where that happens? This help?
21456
 
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Patsy1099

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@YoAdrian now youdaman!
So I’m that first diagram, that’s all for the white harness? For some reason I thought it was for the black harness on top and white harness on the bottom of the diagram which is why the colors weren’t jiving for me. Your pic clears that up. Thank you!
What about the black harness wiring, was that the other pic you posted from the other guy?
 

Patsy1099

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This stuff is killing major brain cells. I “think” I got it. I was thinking originally the top part of that wiring diagram was the black harness and the bottom was the white. Now it seems like the top/bottom section on the left is the white harness and the speaker inputs off to the right are the black harness. I’m probably making this much more confusing than it has to be.
 

YoAdrian

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Can anyone confirm if the UConnect volume and equalizer controls occur inside (versus before) the ANC Module?

This stuff is killing major brain cells. I “think” I got it. I was thinking originally the top part of that wiring diagram was the black harness and the bottom was the white. Now it seems like the top/bottom section on the left is the white harness and the speaker inputs off to the right are the black harness. I’m probably making this much more confusing than it has to be.
Yes! I had cut the diagram in two since it was so wide. C2 carries the signal IN from the radio and microphones to the ANC Module, C3 carries the signal OUT to the speakers. Here’s the rest of the story, connector C3:
21459
 

Patsy1099

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Awesome thanks!

I’m pretty sure the signal comes amplified out of the head unit and nothing else happening inside the ANC. I’m pretty sure I read earlier in the thread about anc being completely removed. I will find out.
 

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I’ll have to post back results next week some time. Ran into some snags. I can’t fit the amp under the seat once the harnesses are connected, too tight. I also couldn’t get the amp to turn on. I didn’t think I’d need to run a remote turn on wire because I was using high level inputs but I guess I do? Anyway will have to get the proper wiring lengths and relocate to the back. To be continued. Thanks again for clearing up the fogged brain with the diagrams!
 

YoAdrian

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I didn’t think I’d need to run a remote turn on wire because I was using high level inputs but I guess I do?
Depends on the amp, some do some don’t, just check the specs.

I would also make sure Uconnect is actually sending a signal after you futz with it... a few times after I disco’d the ANC and plugged back in, the radio would boot up but not send any signal. A “long” reset (shutting off the vehicle for ~15 mins) would get it going again.

Good luck!
 

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So I’m wondering how a multimeter set to DC could detect the polarity of the AC signal. But perhaps the amp bias or slight idle current would cause this + DC voltage... Any stereo electricians out there want to confirm whether a multimeter can consistently test for polarity? Hmm... who’s out there... @troutspinner @WRH ?

A buddy told me the AudioControl app "MobileTools" does a good job of checking polarity (I have on iPhone, not sure if it's available on android). I haven't tested it yet but I did order a mic that works with it:

Not sure how soon I'll have time to play around with it, but I'll try to get to it in the next couple weeks and let you know what I think.
 

kirkelli

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Hello All,
Been following this thread for awhile and thought i would share my install. I have a 2018 Ram 2500 w/8.4 RA3 Radio (6 speaker non Alpine w/NAV). I do not have the ANC in my system. I am a very long time audio nut and need to have good sounds in my vehicles. After getting my Ram I quickly realized i did not want to change out the head unit because it controls basically 'everything'. So, I went out on a limb here and purchased the JL Auido FIX and VXi amplifiers and I rolled the dice and installed all this myself. First off, if you intend to tab the high level outs from the factory radio, do yourself a huge favor and get the Net Audio T Harness w/Load Resistors. https://www.netaudiowf.com/ this will allow you to easily tab the high level outs without making a mess of your factory wires. The load resistors are needed to trick the factory radio into seeing the factory load on factory speakers, otherwise voice prompts etc. will not work. Next, wire this to a JL Auido FIX 86.. This does a damn good job summing the outputs to a near perfect flat composite level needed to feed amplifiers. Although you can use your favorite Amps,, I went with JL Audio VXi line because of the built in DSP Tuning capabilities. I did the proper install, sound deeding, ,good wiring etc. The FIX set up was a breeze, a 10 min setup.. The VXi amplifier set up was a little more work and took about 4 hours of tweaking to dial them in. JL Auido actually got me going with a basic 8 CH map that came pretty close to my final Tune. The final outcome.. Folks.. I am totally impressed and could not be happier. My sound systems is as good or better than any aftermarket Alpine, Kenwood or Pioneer System. And the icing on the cake,, everything in my truck still functions as intended by the factory.. Im attaching a quick diagram of what i did.. If you are willing to spend some money, guarantee you will have a huge smile on your face.
 

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YoAdrian

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Hello All,
Been following this thread for awhile and thought i would share my install. I have a 2018 Ram 2500 w/8.4 RA3 Radio (6 speaker non Alpine w/NAV). I do not have the ANC in my system. I am a very long time audio nut and need to have good sounds in my vehicles. After getting my Ram I quickly realized i did not want to change out the head unit because it controls basically 'everything'. So, I went out on a limb here and purchased the JL Auido FIX and VXi amplifiers and I rolled the dice and installed all this myself. First off, if you intend to tab the high level outs from the factory radio, do yourself a huge favor and get the Net Audio T Harness w/Load Resistors. https://www.netaudiowf.com/ this will allow you to easily tab the high level outs without making a mess of your factory wires. The load resistors are needed to trick the factory radio into seeing the factory load on factory speakers, otherwise voice prompts etc. will not work. Next, wire this to a JL Auido FIX 86.. This does a **** good job summing the outputs to a near perfect flat composite level needed to feed amplifiers. Although you can use your favorite Amps,, I went with JL Audio VXi line because of the built in DSP Tuning capabilities. I did the proper install, sound deeding, ,good wiring etc. The FIX set up was a breeze, a 10 min setup.. The VXi amplifier set up was a little more work and took about 4 hours of tweaking to dial them in. JL Auido actually got me going with a basic 8 CH map that came pretty close to my final Tune. The final outcome.. Folks.. I am totally impressed and could not be happier. My sound systems is as good or better than any aftermarket Alpine, Kenwood or Pioneer System. And the icing on the cake,, everything in my truck still functions as intended by the factory.. Im attaching a quick diagram of what i did.. If you are willing to spend some money, guarantee you will have a huge smile on your face.
Great write up and nice system, thanks for taking the time to share all the info. Have you seen enough on this thread to confirm the 5th gen harnesses are the same as yours, ensuring that Net Audio kit will work? Does it connect behind the radio, and where exactly did you choose to mount/wire your amps?

Someday I’ll go this route I think. All I need is time and money. :)
 

kirkelli

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Great write up and nice system, thanks for taking the time to share all the info. Have you seen enough on this thread to confirm the 5th gen harnesses are the same as yours, ensuring that Net Audio kit will work? Does it connect behind the radio, and where exactly did you choose to mount/wire your amps?

Someday I’ll go this route I think. All I need is time and money. :)
The Harness connects from between factory radio and the factory harness using same factory male/female connectors. The harness basically provides a clean way of taping into the 4 high level outputs directly from the radio with no need of cutting into anything. It is my best guess that the Harness will fit 5th gens since Infotainment replacement radios specify years 2018-2019 for all 8.4 radios including the new larger screen models. The folks at netaudio or infotainment could possibly answer that. I have a crew cab and netaudio also has kits for a rear seat mod that allows the beck bench to fold down giving access to the area behind the seat, which is the area i installed DSP and Amps. I ran new wires to the speakers and left factory stuff intact. I could actually put everything back to factory within less than an hours work if i needed to sell or other reasons..
 

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@kirkelli - Thanks for the write up! I have focal 165's in the truck right now. An Audio Control D-6.1200 under the rear seat and a T harness from LLJ customs in the mail. I can't wait to hook it all up. I guess I need to find some of those load resistors. :/
 

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