5th Gen Stock Stereo Upgrade Options?

[YoAdrian]

@YoAdrian - To be clear, you've got the 3.5's and 6x9's (JLAudio C2's) wired in parallel up front?

Yep. I think your plan is sound. Now go get that drink.

 

[Speed_And_Truck_Gio]

I have the Alpine system, and I did an amp install for better bass over the last few days, and am temporarily using my old subwoofer box out of my 2011 ram. It 3/4 fits under the seats until I decide what I want to do for a new one... It sounds great. I used an Audiocontrol LC1.800 amplifier, and cut the plug off of the factory sub and wired the two outer channel voice coil wires directly into the amplifier speaker level l/r inputs, and left the middle voice coil channel unused., as it says that it can accept a 3-40 volt rms input. The unit also turn itself on and off, although it gives the odd turn on/off thump. In doing my install there are a few things I noticed.....

1. Any aftermarket sub is probably going to cause issues with the Active Noise Cancellation. I was getting whoop whoop whoop noise and rpm fluctuations through the subs, which I think can also be attributed to them firing upward, instead of from behind the seat, which makes them out of phase from the factory sub. This led me to unpin the positive wires from the 4 microphones at the factory amp connector, effectively disabling the system.

2. Thus far the factory amp has not complained about no load resistor on the subwoofer wires, or shut down the output, and seems to play just fine into the aftermarket amplifier's Hi Level inputs. Although it has only been 3 Days.

3. I replaced all 3 of my Dash Speakers with JBL GX302's, and never had factory wire adapters, as they are lost in the mail somewhere, so I desoldered the plugs off of the factory speakers, trimmed them a bit and mounted them onto the gx302's making sure the polarity was correct. See pics below...

4. Yesterday my JBL gx692 6x9's showed up that came with the Metra adapters. I pulled the factory speakers from the rear doors, and replaced the 6x9's. they did not sound right. Upon inspection and testing, I found that the Metra adapters are wired backwards with the positive and negatives reversed. I swapped the pins on the metra cables to make them correct, and re-installed the rear speakers. They sound great. I still have to do the front doors, although I don't know if the aftermarket speakers will make much difference there, as they are not full range, and I also have a set of tweeters that I may install in the top headliner.

Overall the system sounds 100 percent better. Now if only RAM can get their asses in gear and fix the plethora of intermittent issues with this 8.4 uconnect. View attachment 10006 View attachment 10007 View attachment 10008 View attachment 10009 View attachment 10010

Where did you get the remote feed for the amp

 

[Jmsmith716]

I have the stock 6 speaker set up. I purchased a pair of rockford fosgate punch series 3.5" dash speakers $59 to replace stock ones. Much better quality! The stock was paper crap and the magnet is much larger on the new. Weight is substantially more! Also the Rockford speakers have a coaxial tweeter highs are MUCH louder! Problem was i couldn't turn up volume over 28 or the new dash speakers would distort! I bought (x2) 4ohm, 20watt resistors. One for each speaker to put in line because stock is 8ohms. This helped tremendously!! The problem was that the front doors and dash speakers are in parallel, left side together and right side together L and R on separate channels. When the dash speakers went from 8 ohms to 4 ohms it was recieving much more power and less was going to the doors. So i brought the ohms back up to 8 and the dash speakers are not getting too much power any more and still very loud, and the doors sound much louder, closer to when everything was stock! Ultimately i bought 4 ohm dash speakers, brought them back to 8 ohm (still soo much louder and cleaner and better highs than stock) and the doors are recieving the same amount of power as before. May replace them someday if people are saying it makes a hugh difference. Im sure it will be better but the doors are blue injection molded alpine speakers, crap magnet and sensitivity rating im sure.. but a lot better than most stock paper speakers! Lol sorry for the book, trying to get all the process down for anyone who cares. It has been my project for a few weeks now lol
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You need a resistor for each wire going into the speaker correct? Did you solder them on?

 

[KJC12]

sounds Like I won’t be such in that..lol but thanks for the reply

Are you local to Pittsburgh as well? If so, any recommendations on someone local who could do the install? I'm not wanting to take this on myself.

 

[KJC12]

Any concerns in simply replacing the existing door speakers with upgraded 6x9s from someone like Kicker? Would this be a moderate improvement?

 

[Walski]

Any concerns in simply replacing the existing door speakers with upgraded 6x9s from someone like Kicker? Would this be a moderate improvement?

I have the base 6 speaker no amps no anc... I replaced speakers with jl c2 6x9 and sound is way better

 

[YoAdrian]

Any concerns in simply replacing the existing door speakers with upgraded 6x9s from someone like Kicker? Would this be a moderate improvement?

@Walski and I did the same thing, JL Audio C2s. Yes it is a moderate improvement. I found Kickers to be too bright for my tastes.

 

[Walski]

@Walski and I did the same thing, JL Audio C2s. Yes it is a moderate improvement. I found Kickers to be too bright for my tastes.

I’m in the process of finishing my system just don’t have enough time between work and kids BMX. Putting a lc7i,jl 400/4 2 sundown sa 12 and a sundown 2000/1

 

[YoAdrian]

I’m in the process of finishing my system just don’t have enough time between work and kids BMX. Putting a lc7i,jl 400/4 2 sundown sa 12 and a sundown 2000/1

Looking forward to hearing about your results!

 

[Tstruck42]

SO after reading through it looks like its a long hard process to get the upgraded sound in the 6 speaker system. Iam also looking to upgrade and I've seen peoples idea's. Iam up to putting an amp and sub in but not at the moment maybe later on. For now I just want to replace the dash speakers and the doors. does anyone have a proper guide and what they used for everything instead of me scrolling through the thread to find bits and pieces? Id really appreciate it! Also any recommendations on what to buy would be huge as well!

 

[Patsy1099]

SO after reading through it looks like its a long hard process to get the upgraded sound in the 6 speaker system. Iam also looking to upgrade and I've seen peoples idea's. Iam up to putting an amp and sub in but not at the moment maybe later on. For now I just want to replace the dash speakers and the doors. does anyone have a proper guide and what they used for everything instead of me scrolling through the thread to find bits and pieces? Id really appreciate it! Also any recommendations on what to buy would be huge as well!

You have to decide why speakers you want. Whether you’re price sensitive or not. Whether you like a “bright sound” or not. It’s best to make sure you are keeping an eye on the Ohm’s since the front dash/doors are wired in parallel. IMO you’re safe to stay around 3ohm all around. Since you’re doing dash and doors, I think it’s helpful to stick with the same brand. They tend to work better together but its not a must.

Some choices: Infinity (I went with them), JBL, Kicker, JL Audio, Hertz.

You will also need Metra harnesses for each speaker. The doors use one type, the dash uses a different type (size). If you buy from Crutchfield they will give you the harnesses for free and add them automatically to your cart. You can also call them or chat with them and they will help talk you thru things and educate you a bit (some guys there are better than others but most are good).

You will have to read up on polarity and potential ANC issues. Too much for me to cover in this one post. Lots to unpack. If you have questions let us know.

Read the post on removing the door panels. Bit of a PITA but once you get one, the rest go (kind of) easier.

 

[YoAdrian]

It’s best to make sure you are keeping an eye on the Ohm’s since the front dash/doors are wired in parallel.

Good post @Patsy1099 hey I have a question for you at the end of this post on polarity tests if you have the time.

For @Tstruck42 I’ll just add this: if you want balanced volume throughout the cab, compare any change in impedance of potential replacements with their rated sensitivity in order to make sure one pair of speakers (dash vs doors vs rear doors) is not overly loud, or overly quiet. Also remember when designing your new system the dash and front doors are wired in parallel.

I replaced stock 8 ohm dash speaks w 4 ohm, so selected a low sensitivity 3.5”.
I replaced stock 2 ohm door speaks w 4 ohm, so selected a high sensitivity 6”x9”.
This resulted in a well balanced system, dash speaker volume matches the doors nicely. In my case this was with JL Audio C2s, since I prefer softer high frequencies.

So @Patsy1099 would you mind describing your multimeter procedure for testing polarity at the speaker terminals please? I have read conflicting information regarding this technique, and am wondering if you are getting consistent repeatable results with it. Since the sound signal is AC I don’t understand how it would register as + or - when measuring for DC voltage... but if it works as well as speaker pop then awesome!

 

[YoAdrian]

...does anyone have a proper guide and what they used for everything instead of me scrolling through the thread to find bits and pieces?

Well no, not really, but I tried to collect my speaker replacement notes and linked them to each other so you can follow my install flow. Start back here, and keep an eye out for my links to subsequent “chapters” in my saga. ;-)

 

[Patsy1099]

So @Patsy1099 would you mind describing your multimeter procedure for testing polarity at the speaker terminals please? I have read conflicting information regarding this technique, and am wondering if you are getting consistent repeatable results with it. Since the sound signal is AC I don’t understand how it would register as + or - when measuring for DC voltage... but if it works as well as speaker pop then awesome!

Well I’m def not an expert in electrical but it’s all DC as far as I know. The alternator will supply AC as needed but the majority of the components need DC (I think?). As long as you have power being supplied and you have a multimeter set to DC (set it low to like 200m), it will show you + - voltage.

 

[Patsy1099]

@YoAdrian I am going to be testing with the multimeter again and I will see if I learn anything new. I am finally getting around to my amp and sub upgrade. Should be complete sometime before end of the weekend. I will be removing the ANC completely (right now it’s bypassed) and simply bridging the speaker wires in/out thru the amp. I want to check polarity again of the wires at the amp because I’m concerned that a.) maybe I didn’t get it right when swapping speakers b.) maybe I got it right but the anc was reversing polarity and now with it removed it’s messed up again (??). So I’ll double check wires when installing amp.

 

[YoAdrian]

Well I’m def not an expert in electrical but it’s all DC as far as I know. The alternator will supply AC as needed but the majority of the components need DC (I think?). As long as you have power being supplied and you have a multimeter set to DC (set it low to like 200m), it will show you + - voltage.

One thing I do know, polarity is a pain! So because this thread isn’t long enough...

...though the stereo is powered by the vehicle’s DC 12v system, the sound signals created by the amp transmit to the speakers via an AC signal, + voltage pushes the speaker out and - voltage pulls it in so a cyclical voltage oscillates the speaker cone which creates different sound frequencies.

(Perhaps an interesting side note: home amps are powered by AC of course, but they actually rectify the AC into + and - DC voltage to apply amplification... of the AC sound signal.)

So I’m wondering how a multimeter set to DC could detect the polarity of the AC signal. But perhaps the amp bias or slight idle current would cause this + DC voltage... Any stereo electricians out there want to confirm whether a multimeter can consistently test for polarity? Hmm... who’s out there... @troutspinner @WRH ?

Looking forward to hearing what you learn, maybe swap the DMM leads between black and red speaker wires to see if you get consistent polarity changes?

 

[Patsy1099]

Yikes that’s above my pay grade. I always have to reread anything to do with current about 10 times. I do know it works. It consistently shows + or - when testing a particular set of terminals. As to why? I’ll leave that to the experts. Once they answer I’ll reread it a bunch of times!

 

[troutspinner]

One thing I do know, polarity is a pain! So because this thread isn’t long enough...

...though the stereo is powered by the vehicle’s DC 12v system, the sound signals created by the amp transmit to the speakers via an AC signal, + voltage pushes the speaker out and - voltage pulls it in so a cyclical voltage oscillates the speaker cone which creates different sound frequencies.

(Perhaps an interesting side note: home amps are powered by AC of course, but they actually rectify the AC into + and - DC voltage to apply amplification... of the AC sound signal.)

So I’m wondering how a multimeter set to DC could detect the polarity of the AC signal. But perhaps the amp bias or slight idle current would cause this + DC voltage... Any stereo electricians out there want to confirm whether a multimeter can consistently test for polarity? Hmm... who’s out there... @troutspinner @WRH ?

Looking forward to hearing what you learn, maybe swap the DMM leads between black and red speaker wires to see if you get consistent polarity changes?

My only experience with AC testing on an amps output was to set my levels. From what I understand, the only way to test polarity of an amp’s output is to see if there is continuity between the the amp’s power supply ground and negative side of the speaker output. If continuity is established, that lead or terminal is negative.

 

[KJC12]

I just wrapped up a conversation with Crutchfield. I'm curious to see what the experts on here think of this plan.

Their recommendation is as follows:

Direct dash replacement with Infinity Reference REF-3032cfx 3-1/2" 2-way car speakers

Direct 4 door replacements with PowerBass L2-692T 6"x9" 2-way car speakers — designed to replace 2-ohm factory speakers

 

[Patsy1099]

I just wrapped up a conversation with Crutchfield. I'm curious to see what the experts on here think of this plan.

Their recommendation is as follows:

Direct dash replacement with Infinity Reference REF-3032cfx 3-1/2" 2-way car speakers

Direct 4 door replacements with PowerBass L2-692T 6"x9" 2-way car speakers — designed to replace 2-ohm factory speakers

Why not just do the infinity ref in the doors as well