What's with the oil catch cans?

[whetrick1]

A few ounces of oil that would be diluted by how many gallons of gas?

Intake crud buildup


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[Gman]

There's fuel constantly running through the intake. If you're using a high detergent fuel (like Top Tier), how's it going to crud up?

Based on a video I watched on YouTube with a high mileage Hemi, 2 ounces was collected in 3000 miles. If you figure 18mpg over 3K miles, you're looking at 166.67 gallons. That's 2 ounces of oil vs. 21,333.33 ounces of gasoline flowing through that same intake. That's a ratio of 1:10,666.67.

...but if it helps you sleep at night...

 

[cra1g]

There's fuel constantly running through the intake. If you're using a high detergent fuel (like Top Tier), how's it going to crud up?

Based on a video I watched on YouTube with a high mileage Hemi, 2 ounces was collected in 3000 miles. If you figure 18mpg over 3K miles, you're looking at 166.67 gallons. That's 2 ounces of oil vs. 21,333.33 ounces of gasoline flowing through that same intake. That's a ratio of 1:10,666.67.

...but if it helps you sleep at night...

You are totally not getting a Christmas card from Mishimoto now.

 

[Gman]

I think I'll survive.

I'll take my 2 OEM connections that could leak a vacuum and leave the 5 connections for a catch can install.

 

[whetrick1]

I think I'll survive.

I'll take my 2 OEM connections that could leak a vacuum and leave the 5 connections for a catch can install.

Haha where do you get 5 connections. And it doesn't matter to me if you use one or not. I don't want all of that junk going back through my engine.


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[Gman]

5 connections - crankcase to catch can (2), the can seal itself (1), the can to the intake (2)

Some cans have multiple connections as well, like the hose fittings screwed into the can or multiple seals/drain valves in the can, but I kept it basic.

I'd feel differently if we were talking about a GDI design instead of the old school port injection.

 

[whetrick1]

5 connections - crankcase to catch can (2), the can seal itself (1), the can to the intake (2)

Some cans have multiple connections as well, like the hose fittings screwed into the can or multiple seals/drain valves in the can, but I kept it basic.

I'd feel differently if we were talking about a GDI design instead of the old school port injection.

Mine hooks up from the PCV to the can then from the can to the intake right under the throttle body.


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[Gman]

Mine hooks up from the PCV to the can then from the can to the intake right under the throttle body.

And if your can comes apart and has an O-ring or gasket, that's 5 connections that must be air tight. One at each end of the hose segments and the can.

 

[Diamondback]

.. and don't do like a customer did and use 5,000 (ok not really) plastic adapters from his local hardware store to get it to work .. then wonders why we can't get the thing (engine) to idle properly and run correctly -- "remove that POS abomination and go back to stock and see if the performance returns"

 

[whetrick1]

.. and don't do like a customer did and use 5,000 (ok not really) plastic adapters from his local hardware store to get it to work .. then wonders why we can't get the thing (engine) to idle properly and run correctly -- "remove that POS abomination and go back to stock and see if the performance returns"

I haven't had any problems with mine. No leaks. Engine runs and idles great. I don't know what you're talking about. I don't consider it a POS. Have you used one yet??


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[Diamondback]

I haven't had any problems with mine. No leaks. Engine runs and idles great. I don't know what you're talking about. I don't consider it a POS. Have you used one yet??

Sounds good.
I didn't say oil separators were POS' I said the customer's was ..
he was using cr@p like this:


he also added a 2" throttle body spacer (with no gaskets) and a CAI with the same adapters as above.

Yes - I had a nice oil separator on one of my previous vehicles (426HP 5.4L Ford engine).

If setup properly with proper adapters, they work great.

Tim N

54-snake.com

 

[whetrick1]

Sounds good.
I didn't say oil separators were POS' I said the customer's was ..
he was using cr@p like this:
View attachment 39645

he also added a 2" throttle body spacer (with no gaskets) and a CAI with the same adapters as above.

Yes - I had a nice oil separator on one of my previous vehicles (426HP 5.4L Ford engine).

If setup properly with proper adapters, they work great.

Tim N

54-snake.com

Yeah my hoses go on metal adapters with hose clamps. No leaks no plastic crap.


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[whetrick1]

And I dump mine every 1500 to 2000 miles.


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[pinkerton]

This is a very long thread with much to say about catching oil, yet no one has made a clear case for why it should be caught.

 

[AnthonyD1978]

I had a modded turbo car starting back in 2000 and have had multiple since then. I modded them and raced them frequently.

We ran catch cans extensively back in the day, but they really aren't needed with modern engines, gas, oil. They kind of went the way of blow off valves.

 

[jmac]

My take on all this is, if you run a lot of short trips and not let your engine get to operating temp for a period of time, then you should get a catch can. oil residue on the valves is not good. but if you typically run engine at operating temp for long periods, the oil burns off and all is good. I do not have catch cans on any of my cars.

 

[securityguy]

This is a very long thread with much to say about catching oil, yet no one has made a clear case for why it should be caught.

There is a TON of info on the internet about the reasons why an OCC is a good idea...especially for DI engines that have no fuel wash over the valves to prevent them from getting caked with carbon buildup. Without an OCC, the oil/gas blow by from the PCV gets rerouted back into the intake to get reburned. Unfortunately, the oil will start to cake up on the top side of the valve over time and can create valve issues which result in poor performance. The OCC catches all of the "gunk" and prevents it from reentering the intake. It will not prevent 100% of the carbon buildup but a good amount which will allow the engine to run longer before you should have an intake cleaning performed. Most folks say to have the intake professionally cleaned every 30-45K miles. My dealer does it using BG products (the best in the industry) for around $200. If you plan to keep the truck for a while, invest in the cleaning service. Some folks try to use SeaFoam or Intake spray but there have been several posts of how it's not nearly as effective as a professional atomized cleaning of the entire intake and valves. Hope this helps

 

[Gman]

There is a TON of info on the internet about the reasons why an OCC is a good idea...especially for DI engines that have no fuel wash over the valves to prevent them from getting caked with carbon buildup. Without an OCC, the oil/gas blow by from the PCV gets rerouted back into the intake to get reburned. Unfortunately, the oil will start to cake up on the top side of the valve over time and can create valve issues which result in poor performance. The OCC catches all of the "gunk" and prevents it from reentering the intake. It will not prevent 100% of the carbon buildup but a good amount which will allow the engine to run longer before you should have an intake cleaning performed. Most folks say to have the intake professionally cleaned every 30-45K miles. My dealer does it using BG products (the best in the industry) for around $200. If you plan to keep the truck for a while, invest in the cleaning service. Some folks try to use SeaFoam or Intake spray but there have been several posts of how it's not nearly as effective as a professional atomized cleaning of the entire intake and valves. Hope this helps

The Ram 5.7 Hemi isn't Direct Injection, so...

I have had the BG intake cleaning performed on my 2012 Hyundai Azera with GDI, but that's not really what we're talking about here.

 

[securityguy]

The Ram 5.7 Hemi isn't Direct Injection, so...

I have had the BG intake cleaning performed on my 2012 Hyundai Azera with GDI, but that's not really what we're talking about here.

What??? He asked a question and I answered it and also provided some additional insights. That's what we're talking about here

 

[J-Cooz]

In cold conditions these cans catch more moisture than anything, which becomes a problem when it freezes or fills the can too quick. My 6.4L Hemi in my Jeep SRT blew the dipstick out a few times and the cause was the can was full of condensation. I was emptying it often as well.

I took it off and never had issues again and won't run a catch can on my Hemi. Sure it catches some oil, but does it really matter?