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What engine oil are you using?

Changing oil/ filter myself is inexpensive and easy having a car lift. I purchase whatever MS-6395 synthetic oil that is on sale in 0w20 that is recommended for my 2022 Hemi. I purchased a case of Mopar MO-339 filters from RockAuto. I change oil at 50% life which is 4,500 – 5,000 miles as I’m towing 7k# over 60% of the time.

Wix makes excellent oil filters and I use them in my race car. Wix has moved some of its production to China. The quality of these Chinese filters is questionable. One of the reviews I read (see attachment) of made in China Wix filter showed photos of quality concerns of the filter material. You would be wise to look at the country of manufacture when purchasing oil filters of any brand. I will not purchase or use China manufactured oil filters.

The Mopar MO-339 I purchased are made in USA. When I cut several open after use I found them to be well constructed. I do not know the filter micron rating, but would expect them to be in the 25 micron or less rating.

 
Mr.Grid said:
Changing oil/ filter myself is inexpensive and easy having a car lift. I purchase whatever MS-6395 synthetic oil that is on sale in 0w20 that is recommended for my 2022 Hemi. I purchased a case of Mopar MO-339 filters from RockAuto. I change oil at 50% life which is 4,500 – 5,000 miles as I’m towing 7k# over 60% of the time.

Wix makes excellent oil filters and I use them in my race car. Wix has moved some of its production to China. The quality of these Chinese filters is questionable. One of the reviews I read (see attachment) of made in China Wix filter showed photos of quality concerns of the filter material. You would be wise to look at the country of manufacture when purchasing oil filters of any brand. I will not purchase or use China manufactured oil filters.

The Mopar MO-339 I purchased are made in USA. When I cut several open after use I found them to be well constructed. I do not know the filter micron rating, but would expect them to be in the 25 micron or less rating.

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There are two things I won't buy from China, anything to do with pet treats & oil filters. Both really important to me that the best quality and no cutting corners is used with each of those items.

I use Wix filters as well, but luckily the ones I use are made in Germany, especially if there is a MANN+HUMMEL alternative since they own Wix filters.
 
Ok, so I am coming up on 5K miles and going to change the oil in my 22 Laramie 5.7. I have climbed from the rabbit hole of which oil weight to use, and not found what I was looking for.

My question is this. The manual and the fill cap says 0W-20, but I live in Phoenix where it seldom gets near freezing and you can on count on triple digit temps in the summer. Now that Phoenix is growing from all the covid migration the traffic means you can spend a lot of time in heavy stop and stop traffic!

The manual gives no indication for oil substitutions for hot weather climates, so what are the chances moving to 0W-30 or even 5W-30 would void the warranty? My thinking meat says, "Screw the man, and go with the 5W-30", but in the rare case I have an issue would I simply be falling on my own sword?
 
Gunner69 said:
Ok, so I am coming up on 5K miles and going to change the oil in my 22 Laramie 5.7. I have climbed from the rabbit hole of which oil weight to use, and not found what I was looking for.

My question is this. The manual and the fill cap says 0W-20, but I live in Phoenix where it seldom gets near freezing and you can on count on triple digit temps in the summer. Now that Phoenix is growing from all the covid migration the traffic means you can spend a lot of time in heavy stop and stop traffic!

The manual gives no indication for oil substitutions for hot weather climates, so what are the chances moving to 0W-30 or even 5W-30 would void the warranty? My thinking meat says, "Screw the man, and go with the 5W-30", but in the rare case I have an issue would I simply be falling on my own sword?
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Not for nothing but.. how would the dealer know what kind of oil you were using unless you tell them? Have you seen the techs in there?? :)
This has been beaten to death in other threads and forums but I think the general consensus with oil analysis to back it up is Redline 5w-30 is the best oil if you are running the 5.7 hemi
 
daveray9 said:
Not for nothing but.. how would the dealer know what kind of oil you were using unless you tell them? Have you seen the techs in there?? :)
This has been beaten to death in other threads and forums but I think the general consensus with oil analysis to back it up is Redline 5w-30 is the best oil if you are running the 5.7 hemi
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I get what you're saying and agree. However, (If) I walk in with a drive train issue and have not let them do any maint they are going to ask for details, which will include my maint data.

I am simply pondering the outcome if I show the maint was performed and even though 5W-30 meets the FCA mark, will they still bust my balls? I have zero faith in their good will, and even less in most flat rate techs. The day I bought the truck there was a gap when the tail gate was closed, that could only be corrected by SLAMMING it shut. Not liking this I took it in and was not at all shocked when the Rep said, "It is what it is, slam it shut"!
 
Gunner69 said:
I get what you're saying and agree. However, (If) I walk in with a drive train issue and have not let them do any maint they are going to ask for details, which will include my maint data.

I am simply pondering the outcome if I show the maint was performed and even though 5W-30 meets the FCA mark, will they still bust my balls? I have zero faith in their good will, and even less in most flat rate techs. The day I bought the truck there was a gap when the tail gate was closed, that could only be corrected by SLAMMING it shut. Not liking this I took it in and was not at all shocked when the Rep said, "It is what it is, slam it shut"!
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Use what you want, and stop asking for advice, if you don't want to use the manufacturer recommended oil!
 
Gunner69 said:
Ok, so I am coming up on 5K miles and going to change the oil in my 22 Laramie 5.7. I have climbed from the rabbit hole of which oil weight to use, and not found what I was looking for.

My question is this. The manual and the fill cap says 0W-20, but I live in Phoenix where it seldom gets near freezing and you can on count on triple digit temps in the summer. Now that Phoenix is growing from all the covid migration the traffic means you can spend a lot of time in heavy stop and stop traffic!

The manual gives no indication for oil substitutions for hot weather climates, so what are the chances moving to 0W-30 or even 5W-30 would void the warranty? My thinking meat says, "Screw the man, and go with the 5W-30", but in the rare case I have an issue would I simply be falling on my own sword?
Click to expand...
Stop and Go traffic is easy on oil and oil temp, even in hot weather. No extended load on the engine like when towing.

The highest oil temp I’ve seen towing 7k# up extended 5.5% grade in 90* weather with 0w20 is 250’s*. Returning to level or downhill grade towing and temps drop to 230*. I change oil at 5k miles max towing now.

My 2011 Hemi Ram required 5w20 and I used semi-synthetic. It had 180k miles with over half of them towing the same 7k# trailer from the Midwest to the Southeast coast. I changed oil 3-4k miles. Oil is cheap.
 
I just retired from ExxonMobil after 38 years. Working the last 20 in Poly Alpha Olefins (base stock) Class IV and with Class V Polyol Esters used in turbine engines.
All PAO base stock has a 5-20% blend of Polyol Esters for seal swell, additive solubility and for lubricity. C8, C12 and C14 α-olefins and other α-olefins are used to make the different weights we see as 0W20-5W40 each grade has a different pour point, viscosity, specific gravity and other attributes.
I cannot recommend a specific weight oil, but I can tell you engine tests were completed to use the lightest weight oil for sometimes a net .2% fuel economy increase. After testing engines were disassembled and engine wear was measured.
I can say this know between the EPA forcing ULSD by 2007 and NHTSA under the DOT sets mandates for EPA for automobile manufacturers (We are in good hands with Pete Buttilick) that is a big not.
Lastly don't be shocked to see dealers many who buy oil in bulk not use 0W20, if you can get in the back still.
 
Amsoil XL Boosted 0w-20 with a WIX 57060 filter. Log it in my Ram app each time I do it.

Signed up to be a preferred customer with Amsoil so I get 25% off each order. I do the changes myself because I just can't trust anybody but myself.
 
I use Mobile 1 Full Synthetic every 5k miles/1 year in everything I own. I've opened up and worked on a LOT of engines and it's what I recommend.

I can also tell the difference between a 100k mile motor that's burned Costco/Valero fuel all it's life and one that's burned Shell. I understand and appreciate that, when it comes to these kinds of things, everyone has an opinion. In my experience, mine is buy the high quality stuff. But not Royal Purple/AMS/any other marketing-pushed money grab.

I'm around cars and car parts every single day and have been building/selling them now for over 20 years. My advice is simply based on my experiences.
 
The Ghost said:
I use Mobile 1 Full Synthetic every 5k miles/1 year in everything I own. I've opened up and worked on a LOT of engines and it's what I recommend.

I can also tell the difference between a 100k mile motor that's burned Costco/Valero fuel all it's life and one that's burned Shell. I understand and appreciate that, when it comes to these kinds of things, everyone has an opinion. In my experience, mine is buy the high quality stuff. But not Royal Purple/AMS/any other marketing-pushed money grab.

I'm around cars and car parts every single day and have been building/selling them now for over 20 years. My advice is simply based on my experiences.
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Mobil 1 is my pick as well. Been running it for years.
 
The Ghost said:
Not all top tier fuels are the same. You could do worse, but it isn't the best.
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All the gas that comes out of a fueling terminal meets the exact same fuel standard. The gas going into the delivery tanker no matter what the brand, is coming from the same terminal. Top Tier is the additional additive package (detergents) that is included in the fuel at time of delivery.
 
Mr.Grid said:
All the gas that comes out of a fueling terminal meets the exact same fuel standard. The gas going into the delivery tanker no matter what the brand, is coming from the same terminal. Top Tier is the additional additive package (detergents) that is included in the fuel at time of delivery.
Click to expand...

I don't know why people think detergent mixtures between oil companies, or even grades at the same company, are the same.

I may be new to this forum, but it seems the same arguments in every other forum are prevalent here: fuel, oil, catch cans. I've spent so much time trying to get information out on all of these items I'm not willing to discuss them further.

So yep, every fuel is the exact same. They all just mix in a Kool-Aid powder with "Top Tier" stamped on it and voila, there ya go. No need for billions of dollars of research or thousands of chemists or any of that. It's all the same.
 
theblet said:
Mobil 1 is my pick as well. Been running it for years.
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I have the 2019 Ram 5.7 Hemi with eTorque and it calls for 5w-20 and your's calls for 0w-20? Interesting. Specifically which Mobil 1 do you run and regarding the fuel you say Shell gasoline is better for the engine than Costco or other discounted brands? Is that correct?
 
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