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What engine oil are you using?

I just ordered some of this. I know there will be those who cry snake oil. I've used it before in previous vehicles. Works good. The owner Brian is a wealth of knowledge if you call him and talk.

 
I have the 2019 Ram 5.7 Hemi with eTorque and it calls for 5w-20 and your's calls for 0w-20? Interesting. Specifically which Mobil 1 do you run and regarding the fuel you say Shell gasoline is better for the engine than Costco or other discounted brands? Is that correct?
Same, I dont understand why people choose to use different oils then what its called for. 0w is thinner the 5w, an will slip through rings seals and more over time. I don't know if thats really a upgrade. I get so they say its better in cold, flows better in cold (which means not as good in hot weather) for new engines maybe.. but anything with miles, i'm unsure. I would love to know the date and proof behind changing oil viscosity.

Anyone running a larger oil filter over this peanut sized one
 
All that info is in this thread already. Just start reading though the pages.


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Same, I dont understand why people choose to use different oils then what its called for. 0w is thinner the 5w, an will slip through rings seals and more over time. I don't know if thats really a upgrade. I get so they say its better in cold, flows better in cold (which means not as good in hot weather) for new engines maybe..
This is a common misconception.
0w20 is not "thinner" or lower viscosity, it's a 20 weight oil at operating temperature just like 5w20 or straight 20 weight. The first number refers only to the low temperature rating where in cold temps the multi-grade oils will act like a 0 or 5 weight. The "W" in the rating is for Winter, not weight. The lower the Winter number, the easier the vehicle will start and pull the oil up from the drain pan to assist in lubricating cold engines. Once the engine warms up, the oil protects like a 20 weight oil.

RAM likely switched to 0w20 for vehicles in colder climates like the northern states and Canada where the cold temps need a lower Winter rating. I don't believe there are any conventional oils capable of 0w ratings which is why many manufacturers have switched to full synthetic to get 0w rated multi-grade oils.
 
What happened to the days when we just bought regular old dino oil in tin/cardboard cans, jammed a spout in the top tin and dumped it in our motors?

AE9D9309-8856-4F56-935A-43FACED81714.jpeg

They have to make everything so damn complicated these days.😆
 
What happened to the days when we just bought regular old dino oil in tin/cardboard cans, jammed a spout in the top tin and dumped it in our motors?

View attachment 154544

They have to make everything so damn complicated these days.😆
You can go back to carburetors and non A/C or power steering and be nostalgic, I'll stick with my 22. Times have changed friend. Go 10k miles with that dinosaur turd and see what happens.
 
In the SAE standard, the difference between 0w-20 and 5w-20 is only an extra 5 degrees C (0w = -40C and 5w = -35C)

0w-x is driven by CAFE reasons only, it doesn't help individual owners as much as it helps FCA with their combined numbers.

However, its complicated and the "0w" or "5w" is still not the final word in what works better in cold temps, many experts use "pour point" instead. See for example how in HPL PP PCMO oil, the 5w-20 has a lower pour point value (-61C) than the 0w-20 (-58C).

And their PP oil is specifically formulated for cold/harsh winter starts. Their regular oil at 5w-20 has a pour point of -40.

So the same SAE rating of 5w-20 can have a different pour point, in this case it's a 20 deg difference which is massive.

An oil is so much more than just the 0w or 5w ratings.
 
Changing oil/ filter myself is inexpensive and easy having a car lift. I purchase whatever MS-6395 synthetic oil that is on sale in 0w20 that is recommended for my 2022 Hemi. I purchased a case of Mopar MO-339 filters from RockAuto. I change oil at 50% life which is 4,500 – 5,000 miles as I’m towing 7k# over 60% of the time.

Wix makes excellent oil filters and I use them in my race car. Wix has moved some of its production to China. The quality of these Chinese filters is questionable. One of the reviews I read (see attachment) of made in China Wix filter showed photos of quality concerns of the filter material. You would be wise to look at the country of manufacture when purchasing oil filters of any brand. I will not purchase or use China manufactured oil filters.

The Mopar MO-339 I purchased are made in USA. When I cut several open after use I found them to be well constructed. I do not know the filter micron rating, but would expect them to be in the 25 micron or less rating.

The problem with Chinese made is they are notorious for knock offs and it wouldn't surprise me if you'll see some with wix..I've bought honda filters from the dealer and had one that was (there are small indicators but you have to know what your looking for) I switched to usa made puralotor.
 
I take my truck to the local tire center. They use 0w20premium (can’t remember the brand) synthetic oil as required by Ram and a six filter. I know what is said about using a place like this but I live in a town of 5k people,and everyone know everyone. Plus they rotate my tires for free, even though this are the tires that ca,e with the truck, not ones they put on. With coupon, out the door price is $72 bucks. That’s deal. Also, their info gets recorded in ton the car auto fax website information so their is an electronic record of every oil change.
 
My 22 BH calls for 0w20 does it matter between 5w20 or 0w30 if i use those. Iam in a hot dry environment in Phx AZ i would prefer a heavier weighf oil and i do alot of hill climbing since i go camping alot .,temps are always over 100 in the summers.
 
My 22 BH calls for 0w20 does it matter between 5w20 or 0w30 if i use those. Iam in a hot dry environment in Phx AZ i would prefer a heavier weighf oil and i do alot of hill climbing since i go camping alot .,temps are always over 100 in the summers.
Wouldn't make a difference since they are both 20 weight oils. Several have used 30 weight with no issues, but I know on the 05-08 Hemis, 5w-30 would cause MDS to act weird.
 
My 22 BH calls for 0w20 does it matter between 5w20 or 0w30 if i use those. Iam in a hot dry environment in Phx AZ i would prefer a heavier weighf oil and i do alot of hill climbing since i go camping alot .,temps are always over 100 in the summers.

Go for 5w-30. You won't have any MDS issues and you don't need the 0w at all in AZ.

The best oil choices on the market these days are Redline 5w-30 and something like HPL no VII Euro 5w-30. They are crazy expensive but phenomenal oil choices, both in terms of protection and cleaning abilities.

Some have even used Mobil 1 FS 0w-40. It's a cheaper oil compared to RL/HPL, but a really good choice if you don't want to pay premium prices. I've run it in my truck, again no MDS issues. If you run M1, you may want to use 12 oz of Bitotech LubeGuard for that extra moly as M1 doesn't have all that much.
 
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You guys can do whatever you want. I will never touch a 0W20 oil. Never have, never will. They simply do not protect adequately in summer heat or while towing. And after 4,500 miles of terrible "Hemi tick" and valvetrain noise, my engine has run whisper quiet and as smooth as silk since I started doing my own service with higher viscosity oils. ZERO clatter or tick now. I typically like Pennzoil Ultra Platinum but it's been impossible to find lately so I've been using Valvoline Advanced instead.

 
You guys can do whatever you want. I will never touch a 0W20 oil. Never have, never will. They simply do not protect adequately in summer heat or while towing. And after 4,500 miles of terrible "Hemi tick" and valvetrain noise, my engine has run whisper quiet and as smooth as silk since I started doing my own service with higher viscosity oils. ZERO clatter or tick now. I typically like Pennzoil Ultra Platinum but it's been impossible to find lately so I've been using Valvoline Advanced instead.

What are you using now?
 
I just changed my oil at 1060miles i could see the shiny small pieces of aluminum in the oil from breakin in im guessing. I couldnt find PUP , i went with Mobil 1 EX full syn. 0w20 and a bottle of Lubegard .Next oil change at about 4k im gonna change to 5w30 , funny thing is engine is quieter after putting in the lubegard i noticed that. Im still under warranty for 3years but i dont think the manufacturer has my best interest in mind they just want the truck to make it to 60k or 3.years.
 
For my last oil change I wanted an ester synthetic that had MS-6395 printed on bottle for warranty purposes. I came across Ravenol SFE 5W20.

The motor seems to really like it based on results from several data points which include but are not limited to, my ears, seat of the pants, and placebo effect
 
Just changed mine with the 0w20 Ultra Platnum Pennzoil. No hemi tick at start up.
 
Is it really that difficult to follow the recommendation of the company that spent millions of dollars developing and building the truck?
 
Is it really that difficult to follow the recommendation of the company that spent millions of dollars developing and building the truck?

That's the wrong question. The question is, why does FCA now recommend 0w-20 when in the past 5w-30 was completely fine in the engine?

The answer to that is, fuel economy. Physics and Chemistry haven't changed any, which means a more viscous oil generally has higher MOFT and better protection for your engine.

If you want the highest protection for your engine: 0/5w-30.
If you want the highest fuel economy for your engine: 0w-16/20

You decide what you want, FCA chose fuel economy.
 

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