jl13
Ram Guru
- Joined
- May 28, 2021
- Messages
- 1,237
- Reaction score
- 1,150
- Points
- 113
- Age
- 44
- Location
- boyle heights, CA
XLIs that an L or XL?
XLIs that an L or XL?
In cases like this I tend to simply bust my back lifting them manually and then book 3 sessions at my chiropractor followed by many days of not being able to pull my socks on and laying on the couch swearing I’d never do something like that again.Now that I'm well into the golden years, I've discovered DIY replacing standard Group 26/27 batteries (~30/50lbs) is a lower back wakeup call. Even worse Odyssey Group 27 batteries (we use in our older mopars) weigh nearly 70lbs. There's all manner of lifting tools which don't really reduce the back strain.
So got to thinking, can I use my 2 post lift to replace batteries. Used an extra lift pad extender that nearly fit inside some scrap 2x2 steel square tube (1/8 walls) for jig post. Also had some telescopic, perforated steel square tubing leftover from another project that could be a jig arm. All that was needed was a couple threaded hooks for the battery handles. Some cutting and welding, presto a $7 lift battery jig. Couple pix of mockup with Rebel to size the lift arm, final painted. The power cable/switch on top of the battery runs to a rear connector for my trailer winch.
View attachment 207719 View attachment 207720 View attachment 207722
Done that trick on other things but since i was just outside a store i just change it. 1st time since owenership. 4+ years. Not sure if thats too early or got more then enought time out of itI've found with my dog and the AJT case, 90% of the time just opening it and closing it to disconnect battery, as you would tk reset computer on your truck, will bring the fob back. I carry my L key with me in the truck for this reason as well. Although, I did just replace my battery again today, because it was getting worse and didn't work at all, all day yesterday.
Why would it not be an Allen wrench? Have you never heard of called that before?I have to ask what is this "L Key" ? Some how I don't think its an Allen wrench...
That's an interesting design on that catch can. Would be interesting seeing more detail. The pictures I find from manufacturer website don't show what all is in the top side.Improved Racing catch can.
I've had it off and it didn't feel like it had much more than a few ounces in it. It also has a PoS o-ring that snapped the last time I opened it.
Lastly, if it were full and blocking flow or ingesting what's in the catch can, it'd be smoking like chimney and have oil seeping from the ports.
Mine is an aftermarket fob, not OEM.Done that trick on other things but since i was just outside a store i just change it. 1st time since owenership. 4+ years. Not sure if thats too early or got more then enought time out of it
That's an interesting design on that catch can. Would be intertis seeing more detail. The pictures I find from majufyresllt don't show what all is in the top side.
And after four years, if that other can isn't completely full, then it's not working very well
www.mightymousesolutions.com
Some closed catch can systems will fill the catch can full of steel wool or another mesh to keep oil out of the outgoing line that is headed back to the intake. Of course that comes at a cost and price reducing can volume as well as the potential of gumming up and clogging causing lower flow rate.


I like that, want one for ram box beds
yeap. on my website here:Looks good. Are you going to print and sell?![]()
That video on improved racing website makes it sound like the old tornado fuel saver ads. There isn't enough velocity through the can to create a centrifugal force to separate the oil vapors. Which they are vapors, so you need it to condensate inside the can. The catch can with the steel wool, the steel wool is on the inlet side of the catch can. It's meant to help slow down and cause the vapor to condensate, then drop out into the can.Improved Racing | High Performance Oiling System Parts
We specialize in high-performance oiling system products such as baffled oil pans, thermostats, oil catch cans, oil cooler adapters and oil coolers for GM LS engines, Ford engines, and others.www.improvedracing.com
The reason I went with this is that I question the performance of the cans with cheap simple steel "sponge" in them and little science/engineering.
I have a mightymouse open system race can on my car. Both the mighty mouse and the improved racing cans are more than steel wadding in a can
![]()
Catch Can | LSX | Mopar | Ford | Mightymouse Solutions | Virginia, USA
Solutions to your Horsepower needs, related go-fast items and unique customer oriented designs for the modern gearhead. Specializing in LSX parts. Mightymouse Solutionswww.mightymousesolutions.com
I used longer line and -8 (truck) -10 (car) hose to add volume to the system on both my truck and car which also slows down the engine vapor and gives the oil more time to cool and condense before the can adding more efficiency to the system.
View attachment 207867
View attachment 207868
-10 line from each valve cover into a Mighty Mouse Race can that's vented to atmosphere at the very front of the car (to prevent gasses coming into the cabin fresh air intake). The vargasturbo can add a vent but there's no way Id run that on anything but a race or serious street setup
![]()
and that's why I asked. I went from Allen wrench on my BMX bike to hex head. If it is what do you do with it?Why would it not be an Allen wrench? Have you never heard of called that before?
The AJT desing case uses Allen head screws to hold it together. I keep the Allen in my center consoleand that's why I asked. I went from Allen wrench on my BMX bike to hex head. If it is what do you do with it?
That video on improved racing website makes it sound like the old tornado fuel saver ads. There isn't enough velocity through the can to create a centrifugal force to separate the oil vapors. Which they are vapors, so you need it to condensate inside the can. The catch can with the steel wool, the steel wool is on the inlet side of the catch can. It's meant to help slow down and cause the vapor to condensate, then drop out into the can.
Also you do not vent the catch can, connected to your PCV, to atmosphere. That completely defeats the PCV system as you will suck in outside sit instead of the crankcase vapors. Had a friend do that on his Hemi Jeep, and it basically caused a vacuum leak that made his jeep run like crap. The only place you run a vented catch can is on the fresh air side to catch any vapor created by blowby that's would otherwise get into your intake or into your valve cover. And usually, that's only in a vehicle running boost.


Your truck isnt a racing truck. The catch can should go between the PCV valve and intake manifold. This forum isn't for Corvettes.In race applications, you vent the catch can, in high RPM situations, you vent the catch can. I have no idle issues from my vented catch can. If your friend vented his catch can and the car ran like crap, he had a leak on the intake side either after the TB, unmetered air. I'm not running a PCV system on the car, I take crankcase vapor from both valve covers and dump it into a can then vent the can to atmosphere; nowhere is this system attached to the intake.
You can get blowby from many places, most high-performance engine builds call for a wider than OEM ring gap, mine is .021-.026 to accommodate ring expansion, OEM is around .018
View attachment 207885
As for Improved Racing, I haven't watched their videos, I have looked at their setups on cars at the track that run without puking PCV/catch can system. Their products are all developed and tested in a performance environment and work well in the LS/LT world and lately with Hellcat/RHO Hurricane engines.
I'm not a fan of the steel wadding, once it gets loaded with oil, its efficiency drops like a rock and it becomes a restriction in the system. I've used both types on my car at runway events.
Runway event with old catch can setup, notice the smoke from the can not working as needed for the car. Wadding would load up on oil and become a restriction.
View attachment 207886
After adding 2 -10 lines and a might mouse race can and a remote vent to atmosphere
No more smoke, nothing else changed
Your truck isnt a racing truck. The catch can should go between the PCV valve and intake manifold. This forum isn't for Corvettes.
Not angry, just pointing out that race application and street application are two different scenarios and what works on one, isn't necessarily good for the other. Not sure why you brought your Corvette into the discussion.Ohh, someone's angry.
Read again, I don't have an open system on my truck and it's pretty obvious from the pics.
Not angry, just pointing out that race application and street application are two different scenarios and what works on one, isn't necessarily good for the other. Not sure why you brought your Corvette into the discussion.
The "theory" behind the improved racing catch can operation is flawed, talking about "tornado" effect and centrifugal force separating the oil/water/fuel vapors out. There isn't enough flow through the catch can for that to happen.
