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What did you do to your Ram today???

Now that I'm well into the golden years, I've discovered DIY replacing standard Group 26/27 batteries (~30/50lbs) is a lower back wakeup call. Even worse Odyssey Group 27 batteries (we use in our older mopars) weigh nearly 70lbs. There's all manner of lifting tools which don't really reduce the back strain.

So got to thinking, can I use my 2 post lift to replace batteries. Used an extra lift pad extender that nearly fit inside some scrap 2x2 steel square tube (1/8 walls) for jig post. Also had some telescopic, perforated steel square tubing leftover from another project that could be a jig arm. All that was needed was a couple threaded hooks for the battery handles. Some cutting and welding, presto a $7 lift battery jig. Couple pix of mockup with Rebel to size the lift arm, final painted. The power cable/switch on top of the battery runs to a rear connector for my trailer winch.

View attachment 207719 View attachment 207720 View attachment 207722
In cases like this I tend to simply bust my back lifting them manually and then book 3 sessions at my chiropractor followed by many days of not being able to pull my socks on and laying on the couch swearing I’d never do something like that again. 😎
 
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I've found with my dog and the AJT case, 90% of the time just opening it and closing it to disconnect battery, as you would tk reset computer on your truck, will bring the fob back. I carry my L key with me in the truck for this reason as well. Although, I did just replace my battery again today, because it was getting worse and didn't work at all, all day yesterday.
Done that trick on other things but since i was just outside a store i just change it. 1st time since owenership. 4+ years. Not sure if thats too early or got more then enought time out of it
 
Improved Racing catch can.
I've had it off and it didn't feel like it had much more than a few ounces in it. It also has a PoS o-ring that snapped the last time I opened it.
Lastly, if it were full and blocking flow or ingesting what's in the catch can, it'd be smoking like chimney and have oil seeping from the ports.
That's an interesting design on that catch can. Would be interesting seeing more detail. The pictures I find from manufacturer website don't show what all is in the top side.

And after four years, if that other can isn't completely full, then it's not working very well
 
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Done that trick on other things but since i was just outside a store i just change it. 1st time since owenership. 4+ years. Not sure if thats too early or got more then enought time out of it
Mine is an aftermarket fob, not OEM.
 
That's an interesting design on that catch can. Would be intertis seeing more detail. The pictures I find from majufyresllt don't show what all is in the top side.

And after four years, if that other can isn't completely full, then it's not working very well

The reason I went with this is that I question the performance of the cans with cheap simple steel "sponge" in them and little science/engineering.

I have a mightymouse open system race can on my car. Both the mighty mouse and the improved racing cans are more than steel wadding in a can


Some closed catch can systems will fill the catch can full of steel wool or another mesh to keep oil out of the outgoing line that is headed back to the intake. Of course that comes at a cost and price reducing can volume as well as the potential of gumming up and clogging causing lower flow rate.

I used longer line and -8 (truck) -10 (car) hose to add volume to the system on both my truck and car which also slows down the engine vapor and gives the oil more time to cool and condense before the can adding more efficiency to the system.

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-10 line from each valve cover into a Mighty Mouse Race can that's vented to atmosphere at the very front of the car (to prevent gasses coming into the cabin fresh air intake). The vargasturbo can add a vent but there's no way Id run that on anything but a race or serious street setup


IMG20250318111845-scaled.jpg
 

The reason I went with this is that I question the performance of the cans with cheap simple steel "sponge" in them and little science/engineering.

I have a mightymouse open system race can on my car. Both the mighty mouse and the improved racing cans are more than steel wadding in a can




I used longer line and -8 (truck) -10 (car) hose to add volume to the system on both my truck and car which also slows down the engine vapor and gives the oil more time to cool and condense before the can adding more efficiency to the system.

View attachment 207867

View attachment 207868

-10 line from each valve cover into a Mighty Mouse Race can that's vented to atmosphere at the very front of the car (to prevent gasses coming into the cabin fresh air intake). The vargasturbo can add a vent but there's no way Id run that on anything but a race or serious street setup


IMG20250318111845-scaled.jpg
That video on improved racing website makes it sound like the old tornado fuel saver ads. There isn't enough velocity through the can to create a centrifugal force to separate the oil vapors. Which they are vapors, so you need it to condensate inside the can. The catch can with the steel wool, the steel wool is on the inlet side of the catch can. It's meant to help slow down and cause the vapor to condensate, then drop out into the can.

Also you do not vent the catch can, connected to your PCV, to atmosphere. That completely defeats the PCV system as you will suck in outside sit instead of the crankcase vapors. Had a friend do that on his Hemi Jeep, and it basically caused a vacuum leak that made his jeep run like crap. The only place you run a vented catch can is on the fresh air side to catch any vapor created by blowby that's would otherwise get into your intake or into your valve cover. And usually, that's only in a vehicle running boost.
 
That video on improved racing website makes it sound like the old tornado fuel saver ads. There isn't enough velocity through the can to create a centrifugal force to separate the oil vapors. Which they are vapors, so you need it to condensate inside the can. The catch can with the steel wool, the steel wool is on the inlet side of the catch can. It's meant to help slow down and cause the vapor to condensate, then drop out into the can.

Also you do not vent the catch can, connected to your PCV, to atmosphere. That completely defeats the PCV system as you will suck in outside sit instead of the crankcase vapors. Had a friend do that on his Hemi Jeep, and it basically caused a vacuum leak that made his jeep run like crap. The only place you run a vented catch can is on the fresh air side to catch any vapor created by blowby that's would otherwise get into your intake or into your valve cover. And usually, that's only in a vehicle running boost.

In race applications, you vent the catch can, in high RPM situations, you vent the catch can. I have no idle issues from my vented catch can. If your friend vented his catch can and the car ran like crap, he had a leak on the intake side either after the TB, unmetered air. I'm not running a PCV system on the car, I take crankcase vapor from both valve covers and dump it into a can then vent the can to atmosphere; nowhere is this system attached to the intake.

You can get blowby from many places, most high-performance engine builds call for a wider than OEM ring gap, mine is .021-.026 to accommodate ring expansion, OEM is around .018

1762820134659.png

As for Improved Racing, I haven't watched their videos, I have looked at their setups on cars at the track that run without puking PCV/catch can system. Their products are all developed and tested in a performance environment and work well in the LS/LT world and lately with Hellcat/RHO Hurricane engines.
I'm not a fan of the steel wadding, once it gets loaded with oil, its efficiency drops like a rock and it becomes a restriction in the system. I've used both types on my car at runway events.

Runway event with old catch can setup, notice the smoke from the can not working as needed for the car. Wadding would load up on oil and become a restriction.
Screenshot 2025-11-10 182352.png


After adding 2 -10 lines and a might mouse race can and a remote vent to atmosphere

No more smoke, nothing else changed
 
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In race applications, you vent the catch can, in high RPM situations, you vent the catch can. I have no idle issues from my vented catch can. If your friend vented his catch can and the car ran like crap, he had a leak on the intake side either after the TB, unmetered air. I'm not running a PCV system on the car, I take crankcase vapor from both valve covers and dump it into a can then vent the can to atmosphere; nowhere is this system attached to the intake.

You can get blowby from many places, most high-performance engine builds call for a wider than OEM ring gap, mine is .021-.026 to accommodate ring expansion, OEM is around .018

View attachment 207885

As for Improved Racing, I haven't watched their videos, I have looked at their setups on cars at the track that run without puking PCV/catch can system. Their products are all developed and tested in a performance environment and work well in the LS/LT world and lately with Hellcat/RHO Hurricane engines.
I'm not a fan of the steel wadding, once it gets loaded with oil, its efficiency drops like a rock and it becomes a restriction in the system. I've used both types on my car at runway events.

Runway event with old catch can setup, notice the smoke from the can not working as needed for the car. Wadding would load up on oil and become a restriction.
View attachment 207886


After adding 2 -10 lines and a might mouse race can and a remote vent to atmosphere

No more smoke, nothing else changed
Your truck isnt a racing truck. The catch can should go between the PCV valve and intake manifold. This forum isn't for Corvettes.
 
Your truck isnt a racing truck. The catch can should go between the PCV valve and intake manifold. This forum isn't for Corvettes.


Ohh, someone's angry.😂

Read again, I don't have an open system on my truck and it's pretty obvious from the pics.
 
Ohh, someone's angry.😂

Read again, I don't have an open system on my truck and it's pretty obvious from the pics.
Not angry, just pointing out that race application and street application are two different scenarios and what works on one, isn't necessarily good for the other. Not sure why you brought your Corvette into the discussion.

The "theory" behind the improved racing catch can operation is flawed, talking about "tornado" effect and centrifugal force separating the oil/water/fuel vapors out. There isn't enough flow through the catch can for that to happen.
 
Not angry, just pointing out that race application and street application are two different scenarios and what works on one, isn't necessarily good for the other. Not sure why you brought your Corvette into the discussion.

The "theory" behind the improved racing catch can operation is flawed, talking about "tornado" effect and centrifugal force separating the oil/water/fuel vapors out. There isn't enough flow through the catch can for that to happen.

2 different scenarios is why and an illustration as to the ineffectiveness of the steel wadding catch can.
I'll go with improved over your opinion, do what you want with your truck, doesn't matter to me and I'm not trying to sell you on a catch can
 
well this happened:
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I knew I'd hit 50k today but then as soon as I started driving I completely forgot about it.

I'm supposed to do complete service (oil & filter, diffs, t-case, and transmission) last Saturday but I'm burnt out from work... been running wires and installing lights & switches & solar all week (spent 20 minutes on my lunch break talking to this guy on the phone telling him what he needs and what he doesn't need for a long-term overlanding electrical setup... dude proceeded to do exactly the opposite and created a very inefficient system for himself... with cheap & inefficient parts. which is fine, i get paid more that way but it's such a pain in the rear)

anyways, 50k miles in 3 years is kinda wild, but in the past 50k miles:
  • truck has never seen service department of the dealership (yeah i still have that recall LOL)
  • truck has never given me issues - no ticks, no leaky glass window, none of the issues that you see people complain about (the only time when the battery failed to start was when it was getting tints redone, and it was the tint man's error) (also the only time when AC failed due to the bursted AC line... that was my own doing, not truck's fault)
  • truck has never let me down or disappoint me (in terms of IFS. only times I got disappointed were when I was doing Jeep things and looking at legit aftermarket support.)
  • truck burnt through about $15k in fuel (average 15MPG, 3238 gallons)... according to my Fuelly app.
  • truck has been to CA, OR, WA, MT, ID, WY, AZ, UT, NV, AK, BC, AB, YK, YT.
  • truck has seen glaciers, deserts, canyons, mountains, meadows, salt flats, edge and bottom of the Grand Canyon, lowest point in the US, highest peak in the US, Arctic Circle in the US and Canada, one of the two end of the road in the North, and many more.
  • truck has been on many desert runs, achieving highway speeds in bumpy deserts. caught air a few times too!
  • truck has ate the million potholes on Alcan, Dempster, and Dalton going posted speed limit, while others struggled to do even half of the speed.
  • truck has been to countless camping nights out, even few at home due to... power outage.
  • truck has been featured by few notable Boogie-approved manufacturers
  • truck has received the middle finger from me a few times, not because the truck was bad, but because of my chase for performance perfection (#nomickeymousecrap). But that is precisely why it been to those places and participated in the activities that I put it in without breaking something. Also probably precisely why it got featured by those manufacturers (could be more but... I got lazy pushing contents - a year later I'm still not done with posting the Alaska trip content LOL)
  • truck has been the show piece when I explain to customers what I can do for them without opening the can of worms called "custom long travel"
damn, so many memories with this truck I honestly don't think I can let it go for a PW... (until the next time I hit dirt and see those 2500 trucks I play with doing "getting impounded" speed)
 

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