If you don't mind, I have some questions!
- How old is your truck?
- Is this the first time you did any correction?
- How were you washing it before?
- Were there areas you DIDN'T touch? Like, inside the door surrounds, around the grill and headlights, difficult places to isolate around plastic emblems or trim or door handles...
- How long did it take?
I'm growing courage to do this myself. My truck is new, only rinsed it a couple times with the power wand at the car wash (no automated or brushes), so I'm guessing most of the paint is unmolested still. I can't get myself to spend thousands more for this service, before I make my first payment on this already very expensive truck (and I'm still getting my mods together!).
What I've seen so far in paint correction videos, it isn't 100% necessary to do this immediately. Although I know that Security Guy loves to get his PPF immediately. That's looking like $1800 for all the front, fenders, and lower edges.
So my truck is a 2020.
This is the first time that I have done a paint correction.
So I am bit lazy when washing my cars/trucks, as my time is rather limited. We have an automated car wash down the street that I used, it is touchless and it only costs like $8 and I live in CA and there are only certain days that you can wash your car in the driveway(water conservation) So once I run through, I will dry using microfiber towels and detail spray(I like the Chemical Guys line of products)
So the only area that I did not focus on was the very lower body panels. I ran out of time and we don't get road salt or even much rain, so for my cars this the cleanest area of the vehicle
I did tape off some areas, but if you take your time and don't use a lot of compound, it really won't get over everything. Since I used the Hydro Slick, that can go on all surfaces and does not leave a residue.
It took me about 2 days, but I have 3 small kids, so life is rather busy
but even a novice can do this in about a days work.
Here is the process I used:
1. Wash and then dry with detail spray
2. Clay the paint, as mine had so much chemical overspray of sorts
3. Buffed using an orbital buffer at about a speed 4-5 with a microfiber cutting pad(this is a game changer) using Meguiars Ultimate compound.
4. Then I used Chemical Guys Hydro Slic Ceramic. You can use any was/ceramic of your choice.
5. Cleaned up any missed spots with detail spray.
One note, I always error on the side of less is more when correcting paint. The process of correcting the paint is going to thin the paint/clear coat especially if that has been done multiple times. So I did not go for absolute protection, there are still a few little scratched here and there, but this is my daily driver and it sits outside all year, so I know it will never be perfect and I am ok with that
My goal was to make the paint last longer and make future washes much easier.