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What did you do to your Ram today???

Installed Husky mud flaps, great fit and look great IMHO. They did forget one pack of hardware and the 3M material to protect the paint. I had extra so that was not a problem. The factory screws are better than the Husky ones anyway so no loss there.

I tried to install the AVS wind deflectors but the way they want you install them is a no go for the rear windows. The instructions want you to insert the forward part between the channel rubber and the outside trim. No way on mine, I would have to almost rip the rubber seal to get the deflector inserted. So...back they go. I tried Wade brand before on my Rubicon but they only lasted 6 months before disintegrating. I will wait for the Weathertech ones.

I also ordered some door moldings from CARid. The brand is Dawn and they offer match painted, chrome and a combo of both if anyone has been looking for some. Similar style to the molding on some Limiteds.
 
Interior LED’s make huge difference. Replaced 2 maps lights, 2 floor lights, and rear overhead light. The overcab bed LED lights are MUCH brighter and looks good. The brake is brighter as well.

Brake light. Need 1 total

https://www.amazon.com/LASFIT-Chips...op?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref=yo_pop_d_pd_title

Rear cab light. Need 1 bulb

https://www.amazon.com/SiriusLED-Ex...op?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref=yo_pop_d_pd_title

Map lights, foot lights, and bed lights. Need 6 total.
https://www.amazon.com/Marsauto-Ext...op?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref=yo_pop_d_pd_title

To replace the interior map and dome lights do you need to pop off the entire overhead console? Or is there an easier way?
 
Thanks so much for sharing the details. Being a noob is this a plug and play swap and were there any codes set off ?

Thanks again

Matt

No code at all - easy plug and play
 
Take a look at the before and after picture from my swap. The only difference I can see is that the yard seems to have less red on it with the new LED's. Illumination seems the same to me. Ignore the lines and grainy quality difference, that's the camera I took the picture with

I certainly agree with your thoughts on the change in spectrum moving to the LEDs. But I think the reasons there isn’t much difference in the before/after images you posted, is because the cameras are mounted much lower than the replacement LEDs and therefore illuminated mostly from the backup lights that are on about the same plane as the cameras.

You may be correct, I wouldn’t argue with your conclusions. But to my eye, the brightness and contrast above the bed is significantly improved.
 
I certainly agree with your thoughts on the change in spectrum moving to the LEDs. But I think the reasons there isn’t much difference in the before/after images you posted, is because the cameras are mounted much lower than the replacement LEDs and therefore illuminated mostly from the backup lights that are on about the same plane as the cameras.

You may be correct, I wouldn’t argue with your conclusions. But to my eye, the brightness and contrast above the bed is significantly improved.

Yes, I'm sorry if I gave the impression that it's not much brighter in the bed of the truck, the new LED's definitely generate more light than the old bulbs. I was trying to share what difference there was in the backup camera picture and explain what I meant by lost contrast to someone who asked what I meant by that.

I'm a yellow bulb snob, just trying to make sure there are still people that understand why we shouldn't all switch to "bright white" lighting. :)
 
To replace the interior map and dome lights do you need to pop off the entire overhead console? Or is there an easier way?

I recommend pulling down the overhead console. I tried replacing without taking it down and I nearly broke one of the bulb holders!! I do have large hands, but I doubt anyone but a small child would be able to grab/replace those bulbs. there are 2 screws & 2 tabs in the sunglass holder, then it just pulls down. Once out/unplugged it is way easier to push out the bulb from the other side. That's just my 2 cents.
 
I tried to install the AVS wind deflectors but the way they want you install them is a no go for the rear windows. The instructions want you to insert the forward part between the channel rubber and the outside trim. No way on mine, I would have to almost rip the rubber seal to get the deflector inserted. So...back they go. I tried Wade brand before on my Rubicon but they only lasted 6 months before disintegrating. I will wait for the Weathertech ones.

Several of us have picked up a set from US Visors on ebay...

Discussion here:
Ventvisors--In channel
 
Just installed an American Trifold tonneau cover. Looks good at a very reasonable price. Very easy install and it will do nicely until a Leer topper is ordered.
 
Truck came back from the body shop yesterday for some small issues created during transport. Baby looks awesome. I told the guys on this board I would let them know what the body shop had to say about the tailgate cables having slack in the drivers side...... They couldn't figure it out. Cables are exactly the same length and according to them there is not any adjustment in any of the anchor points. They said the body lines were perfect as it is and to change anything would blow the body lines up. Basically they were stumped. Someone mentioned that the slack may be due to the system that lowers the tailgate slowly. I am going with that theory and proceeding with using the tailgate as if it had no issues. Mopar bed step is in the shop and going on this weekend.
 
Truck came back from the body shop yesterday for some small issues created during transport. Baby looks awesome. I told the guys on this board I would let them know what the body shop had to say about the tailgate cables having slack in the drivers side...... They couldn't figure it out. Cables are exactly the same length and according to them there is not any adjustment in any of the anchor points. They said the body lines were perfect as it is and to change anything would blow the body lines up. Basically they were stumped. Someone mentioned that the slack may be due to the system that lowers the tailgate slowly. I am going with that theory and proceeding with using the tailgate as if it had no issues. Mopar bed step is in the shop and going on this weekend.

I have mismatched cables also and I know of one more person that has. I didn't measure mine, I just assumed they were different lengths. I will be at the dealershit soon for a remote start.. I will ask them then.
 
I have mismatched cables also and I know of one more person that has. I didn't measure mine, I just assumed they were different lengths. I will be at the dealershit soon for a remote start.. I will ask them then.

Let us know what you find out. I made the same assumption but I think you will find they are precisely the same length.
 
Probably more to do with the location of the mounting brackets on the tailgate or bed! Slightest difference between sides will throw it off! My driver side has a little slack!

John
 
Weather Tech mud flaps, Backflip MX4, Us Visor vent visors and Tattered American flag hitch cover.
 

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Had the rough country 2inch leveling kit installed, and swapped out the exhaust with a new magnaflow cat back exhaust. Had a local shop do the work, I'm temporarily working with 1 1/2 hands lol

How do you like the sound?
 
The drivers side tailgate cable has more slack when unlaiden because of the assist strut that's mounted to the drivers side, as soon as weights applied to the gate both cables should go taught, if they don't then you have an issue. Drop the gate and sit on it and feel the tension in the cables they should feel similar.
 
Had the rough country 2inch leveling kit installed, and swapped out the exhaust with a new magnaflow cat back exhaust. Had a local shop do the work, I'm temporarily working with 1 1/2 hands lol

Any comments on how it feels/drives with the leveling kit? That few inches really makes the Rebel look right. I am debating it myself. How much did the shop charge you to do the level by the way? Thanks.
 

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