HemiDude
Spends too much time on here
Thanks. When I had my big horn, I was going to replace that emblem with a sport emblem. Now that I have the Laramie, I believe this will suffice.Looks good! I'll be replacing mine with a different badge.
Thanks. When I had my big horn, I was going to replace that emblem with a sport emblem. Now that I have the Laramie, I believe this will suffice.Looks good! I'll be replacing mine with a different badge.
I like it
Where did you get yours. This custom?
Sounds a bit more challenging than putting them on my Jeep or last Chevy, but first brake job will get these on the Ram too! Mountain driving and towing cross country sold me on them years ago.Did Powerstop Z36 rotors and pads on all 4 corners. Also flushed the brake fluid with Amsoil Dot 3-4 synthetic. Huge difference in stopping. I can't complain about the stock brakes. 70k in miles, 1-2k of towing annually, and the fronts had about 30-40% left. Backs I could have stretched another month as they had maybe 15%.
Anyone doing this job, do not attempt it without:
- Hand impact driver with GOOD, Torx 30 bits.
- A torch
- 2 long bolts and nuts to pop the rotors off the hub
Took all day but came out great. Most of the time was spent gently getting the useless Torx 30 screws out that hold the rotor on and then "popping" the rotors off the hub. The Powerstop recommended "break-in" was interesting. I thought I did pretty well with it. Taking it slow on the brakes for a couple more trips to work to let things set in.
Gave it a nice fresh wash this morning to get the road salt off and I'm pretty happy.
Sounds a bit more challenging than putting them on my Jeep or last Chevy, but first brake job will get these on the Ram too! Mountain driving and towing cross country sold me on them years ago.
To be fair, a lot of new cars are using the stupid rotor screws. My wife's old car had them. At least Chrysler uses the Torx head vs. some cars/trucks that use a philips head. The rotors getting rusted on is another common issue that happens with multiple vehicles. The issue is I never thought I'd be doing my first set of brakes on the truck at 70k. I figured they'd be gone by 40k. With that many miles rust is bound to happen.
Should probably bring the bike along just in case.Cleaned up and serviced for a road trip to Daytona. Hopefully my 3.21s make it
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The average Joe cleans up after a road trip. This dude cleans up BEFORE!Cleaned up and serviced for a road trip to Daytona. Hopefully my 3.21s make it
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Sounds like I need to plan ahead to swap them sooner than actually needed. Thanks for the insight.To be fair, a lot of new cars are using the stupid rotor screws. My wife's old car had them. At least Chrysler uses the Torx head vs. some cars/trucks that use a philips head. The rotors getting rusted on is another common issue that happens with multiple vehicles. The issue is I never thought I'd be doing my first set of brakes on the truck at 70k. I figured they'd be gone by 40k. With that many miles rust is bound to happen.
Yes. Have the AT3W on my Jeep, so simple decision.^ Atw4?
Good choice
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I'm really curious how the 4 compares to the 3. Loved the 3's.Yes. Have the AT3W on my Jeep, so simple decision.
Me too. But comparing the Ram to the Jeep won't be an apples to apples comparison. I did spend the $$ and go 10 ply since I'll do some towing, so a bit different there too. Time will tell...I'm really curious how the 4 compares to the 3. Loved the 3's.
I have the ATW3’s in 275/60/20. I’m moving up to the AT4’s in LT285/60/20….big I see yours are 55’s. Do you run spacers? What size did you have before? They look great! Can’t wait to hear your thoughts on them.
Stock was 275/55R20. Stock rims, no spacers. Went up to LT285/55R20 in order to get the 10 ply. Only a 0.4" difference between the two in AT4W, making them 32.3"x11.2".I have the ATW3’s in 275/60/20. I’m moving up to the AT4’s in LT285/60/20….big I see yours are 55’s. Do you run spacers? What size did you have before? They look great! Can’t wait to hear your thoughts on them.