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What did you do to your Ram today???

Headed up to far northern WI today to do some ice fishing this week. On my way I hit a deer with my truck.šŸ˜–

Just cosmetic damage to the grill and trim pieces but as usual Iā€™m sure the damage is much worse when they tear it apart to repair. I can move the entire grill so lots of unseen pieces broken. Just happy the radiator was spared.

Could have been much worse. I was going 55 and a group of six came out of nowhere. I stood on the brakes down to 30 mph and hit one right in the middle of the tight group. Itā€™s amazing I missed the rest.šŸ˜²
 
I vacuumed and applied 303 to interior and ceramic sprayed seats. It's been 6 months since i did interior protection.. Ouch!
 
Any recommendations on a battery ratchet? I've got the Dewalt 1/4" impact and it works great, but too many places I can't get it into.
if you want to keep with one brand battery, dewalt does make cordless ratchets. they have 1/2, 3/8 and a new one with 1/2 or 3/8 inset
 
if you want to keep with one brand battery, dewalt does make cordless ratchets. they have 1/2, 3/8 and a new one with 1/2 or 3/8 inset
Yeah, did some homework last night. Just going to go with Dewalt. I have quite a few tools already. My buddy sells Dewalt. He's going to check on prices. I'll just go with the Atomic 3/8".
 
Headed up to far northern WI today to do some ice fishing this week. On my way I hit a deer with my truck.šŸ˜–

Just cosmetic damage to the grill and trim pieces but as usual Iā€™m sure the damage is much worse when they tear it apart to repair. I can move the entire grill so lots of unseen pieces broken. Just happy the radiator was spared.

Could have been much worse. I was going 55 and a group of six came out of nowhere. I stood on the brakes down to 30 mph and hit one right in the middle of the tight group. Itā€™s amazing I missed the rest.šŸ˜²
Could be worse. Looks like just the grill.
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Washed it today then test it out the new Milwaukee rotary and a couple of different pads.

I apparently have forgotten how much more effort and technique a rotary takes over a DA however the rotary did in one strp what my griots g15 DA takes three steps to do.

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The rotary definitely leaves the paint glossier and adds depth over a DA
 
Washed it today then test it out the new Milwaukee rotary and a couple of different pads.

I apparently have forgotten how much more effort and technique a rotary takes over a DA however the rotary did in one strp what my griots g15 DA takes three steps to do.

View attachment 177270


View attachment 177271


View attachment 177272


The rotary definitely leaves the paint glossier and adds depth over a DA
What compound of polish do u use? Followed by what pads?
 
Washed it today then test it out the new Milwaukee rotary and a couple of different pads.

I apparently have forgotten how much more effort and technique a rotary takes over a DA however the rotary did in one strp what my griots g15 DA takes three steps to do.

View attachment 177270


View attachment 177271


View attachment 177272


The rotary definitely leaves the paint glossier and adds depth over a DA

Giving Ferraiolo1 some competition . Rotary does finish much better.


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What compound of polish do u use? Followed by what pads?

I used a Lake Country Precision Rotary CCS white pad initially and 3D One

I didn't really like the way the Lake Country Pad worked with the rotary, jumping and significant effort to control so I switched to a Rupes Rotary white waffle pad which was much smoother and no jumping around.
I used both the 3DOne and Scholl Concepts S20

I didn't notice a difference between the two polishes finish other than 3D One doesn't create polish snow. Both work equally well, 3D One is less messy and continues to never disappoint.

Rupes waffle pad. I bought both a white and a yellow but I didn't need to cut so I only used the white

I only spent about 15 minutes on this just to test out the polisher and remove a scuff mark on my bumper from a Tesla that tried to defy the laws of physics.
I'll test it on the entire truck another time but this quick test run seems that it will cut my polishing time down by 70%. Normally, its a 3-5 hours to polish this truck with a DA and takes 3 steps. This will do it in one
 
I used a Lake Country Precision Rotary CCS white pad initially and 3D One

I didn't really like the way the Lake Country Pad worked with the rotary, jumping and significant effort to control so I switched to a Rupes Rotary white waffle pad which was much smoother and no jumping around.
I used both the 3DOne and Scholl Concepts S20

I didn't notice a difference between the two polishes finish other than 3D One doesn't create polish snow. Both work equally well, 3D One is less messy and continues to never disappoint.

Rupes waffle pad. I bought both a white and a yellow but I didn't need to cut so I only used the white

I only spent about 15 minutes on this just to test out the polisher and remove a scuff mark on my bumper from a Tesla that tried to defy the laws of physics.
I'll test it on the entire truck another time but this quick test run seems that it will cut my polishing time down by 70%. Normally, its a 3-5 hours to polish this truck with a DA and takes 3 steps. This will do it in one
nice ive been using 3D one for a few years now and really like it. ill have to try the rupes pad ive been using the lake country ones for a bit and they are prettyg good as well.
 
Did Powerstop Z36 rotors and pads on all 4 corners. Also flushed the brake fluid with Amsoil Dot 3-4 synthetic. Huge difference in stopping. I can't complain about the stock brakes. 70k in miles, 1-2k of towing annually, and the fronts had about 30-40% left. Backs I could have stretched another month as they had maybe 15%.

Anyone doing this job, do not attempt it without:

- Hand impact driver with GOOD, Torx 30 bits.
- A torch
- 2 long bolts and nuts to pop the rotors off the hub

Took all day but came out great. Most of the time was spent gently getting the useless Torx 30 screws out that hold the rotor on and then "popping" the rotors off the hub. The Powerstop recommended "break-in" was interesting. I thought I did pretty well with it. Taking it slow on the brakes for a couple more trips to work to let things set in.

Gave it a nice fresh wash this morning to get the road salt off and I'm pretty happy. IMG_1942.jpg

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Did Powerstop Z36 rotors and pads on all 4 corners. Also flushed the brake fluid with Amsoil Dot 3-4 synthetic. Huge difference in stopping. I can't complain about the stock brakes. 70k in miles, 1-2k of towing annually, and the fronts had about 30-40% left. Backs I could have stretched another month as they had maybe 15%.

Anyone doing this job, do not attempt it without:

- Hand impact driver with GOOD, Torx 30 bits.
- A torch
- 2 long bolts and nuts to pop the rotors off the hub

Took all day but came out great. Most of the time was spent gently getting the useless Torx 30 screws out that hold the rotor on and then "popping" the rotors off the hub. The Powerstop recommended "break-in" was interesting. I thought I did pretty well with it. Taking it slow on the brakes for a couple more trips to work to let things set in.

Gave it a nice fresh wash this morning to get the road salt off and I'm pretty happy.
I've made myself car sick a few times doing the break-in procedure on Powerstop rotors and pads
 
I've made myself car sick a few times doing the break-in procedure on Powerstop rotors and pads

Yup lol. I did the best I could. It's difficult to find quiet long stretches of road here. I just did it going around the block a few times as best I could, then drove real slow and putted around for 5-6 minutes after. They eventually will seat in on their own after normal driving. I think they just want you to do this as insurance vs. having to panic stop on a fresh rotor and having it catch, causing it to warp.
 
Yup lol. I did the best I could. It's difficult to find quiet long stretches of road here. I just did it going around the block a few times as best I could, then drove real slow and putted around for 5-6 minutes after. They eventually will seat in on their own after normal driving. I think they just want you to do this as insurance vs. having to panic stop on a fresh rotor and having it catch, causing it to warp.
You need to get them hot to season the rotors and get pad material on them for friction to stop. But, yes, it's hard to find a god stretch of road with no traffic to get it done properly
 
You need to get them hot to season the rotors and get pad material on them for friction to stop. But, yes, it's hard to find a god stretch of road with no traffic to get it done properly

I 100% agree. I think it's definitely a good procedure to do to make sure you are on your way. With that being said, I've done probably 12-15 sets of brakes on different vehicles over the years without doing this procedure and I would say most of them turned out fine. The only ones that didn't were cheap "economy" sets to begin with.

For the money I paid for these, I definitely made sure I did as good as I could with the break in.
 

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