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Weight Distribution Hitch Poll

What weight distribution hitch do you use?


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    97

bucolic

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Short answer: with the L-brackets one notch lower on both sides than usual, the effect of the WDH was barely better than not using the WDH at all.

Long answer: I had to lower my L-brackets because I lost the bar used to snap the trunnion bars onto the L-brackets. I could get the driver side bar on the L-bracket myself, but I couldn't get the passenger side trunnion bar even close to the L-bracket. We were leaving on a weekend trip, so I had to get the trailer hooked up; as a result I opted to lower the L-brackets just so I could lift the trunnion bar onto the L-brackets (both sides). I figured that being attached would be better than nothing. Turns out, that's true, but barely. I felt the trailer tugging and swaying as we went over road undulation. The feeling was more like towing without the WDH than it was towing with the WDH.

With a new trunnion bar snap tool in hand, I won't have to deal with the lower position on the brackets again.

Until I lose the tool again, that is.

I wonder if your setup is slightly off. I saw someone at the campground with this hitch and the round bars and he had the same issue. When he hooked up to leave I could see his setup was off as the bars were at quite an angle when, someone correct me if I am wrong, they should be very close to level when properly set up.

So this
1625842434574.png

If they are not level I do think the setup is not correct. The fellow camper at the campground when hitched up the bars on his L bracket were easily 4" high than at the hitch.


I know on my Equilizer hitch moving the L brackets was too much of an adjustment. I wanted to add tension and moved them to do this and the back wheels just spun so one notch on the l brackets was a huge adjustment. I ended up adjusting with the washer and it's amazing the difference just one or two washers make on the hitch head. I rarely need to use the tool to place the bar on the l brackets on mine unless the ground level is way off.
 

834k3r

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I wonder if your setup is slightly off. I saw someone at the campground with this hitch and the round bars and he had the same issue. When he hooked up to leave I could see his setup was off as the bars were at quite an angle when, someone correct me if I am wrong, they should be very close to level when properly set up.

So this
View attachment 99264

If they are not level I do think the setup is not correct. The fellow camper at the campground when hitched up the bars on his L bracket were easily 4" high than at the hitch.


I know on my Equilizer hitch moving the L brackets was too much of an adjustment. I wanted to add tension and moved them to do this and the back wheels just spun so one notch on the l brackets was a huge adjustment. I ended up adjusting with the washer and it's amazing the difference just one or two washers make on the hitch head. I rarely need to use the tool to place the bar on the l brackets on mine unless the ground level is way off.
It's possible my setup is off, so I'll re-check it. My set up is level to my eye, so I don't think it's off by much; the trunnion bar is only 1/4 an inch below the bracket, but it's too heavy to lift without the tool I lost.

Here's a pretty recent picture of the set up (before I lost the tool).
 

Dragonmaster13

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Blue ox sway pro with 1200lb bars. Ridiculously good. My sister with a similar setup, +\-7000lb trailer, tried an Andersen and we couldn’t get it dialed no matter what we did, she switch to a Curt and it’s almost as good as my blue ox, but provides much less sway control according to my sister.
 

pcar

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I run the propride hitch after wasting money and time on other hitches. Just about everything about this hitch is worth the money. Safety for my family being no. 1. Once you figure out the nuances of the system it is by far easier to use than any of the friction bar or chain based sway systems. We vary the weight in our travel trailer quite often for different trips. It used to entail going to the cat scales alot to confirm our weight and readjust whatever hitch we were running. Now with the propride hitch, when cranking up the load bars with the jacks via proprides method , its usually right on the sweet spot. We never have sway now, on really windy days or the 80mph 18wheeler passing you will feel a little bit of push, but nothing like in the past. Proprides customer service is amazing. Once you used one of these hitches you'll never want to use another. A $65,000 truck and a $40,000 trailer. Makes no sense to skimp and get a cheap hitch.
 
Last edited:

ClancyO

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Husky centerline - used it for a cross country move with a 24” car hauler at max gross. Towed fantastic. Don’t discount it just because it doesn’t cost $1k.
 

pinkerton

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I started with an Andersen for the light weight and ease of use. I think it did fine for weight distribution but was disappointed with its sway control. I switched to a ProPride 3P and the difference is night & day. No sway at all. You can still feel wind and suck/push — no hitch can change physics — but the truck and trailer get pushed as a single unit instead of the trailer trying to twist the truck at the hitch. Everything is much more controlled and comfortable. Most of the time I drive with one hand on the wheel. I haven't pulled more than six hours in a day yet, but that was stress-free enough that I easily could have.

Hitching up is a bit different but it's fast and easy once you get the hang of it, in part because the weight distribution bars stay attached to the hitch head. No issues with turning (the hitch allows up to 87° angles). You don't need to loosen anything to back up or when driving in rain. You can open your tailgate while hitched up, which is very convenient. The only drawback I've encountered is that you lose a bit of ground clearance. That hasn't been an issue for me when towing but can make it a bit harder to get the camper level in sloped campsites because you can't drop the tongue quite as low and might need to put levelers under the wheels instead.

[Our camper is a GD Imagine 2670MK — 32' long, 8500 lb GVWR]
Do you still have the Andersen and want to sell it?
 

cj7

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Found a used ProPride 3P locally, and now use the Recurve R6 for our 7x16 cargo, and the 3P w/1400# bars for our Mesa Ridge 29’. TT is 6800-7200#, sway control is amazing and easily adjusts tongue. When TT was 7100, tongue adjusted from ~830 @ setting 7/10, to ~1080 @ 0/10. Spent a couple hours at the CAT scale with a friendly operator, and with a couple degrees of freedom, there’s lots of adjustability.
(Will have another post with that data).

ProPirde pro’s vs R6:
- nearly perfect sway control (R6 is good, 3P is great)
- super easy weight distro adjustment (R6 adjustment requires switching between 600-800, 800-1000 & 1000-1200# bars and disassembly to fine tune; 3P adjusts via cordless drill to raise or lower tension bars, either 500-1000 or 800-1400#)
- enough clearance to use MFT in either orientation
- made in USA

R6 pro’s vs ProPride
- less expensive
- lighter (but not light)
- fantastic ground clearance (3P bars hang low; R6 has them up at the trailer frame)
- easy install (3P has a bunch of components and a complicated, albeit just one-time, install)
- standard hookup procedure (3P requires you be conscious of trailer-to-truck attitude/level)
- great support (ProPride has been good, Eaz-lift guys have been great)

Since sway and WD are priorities for us, the 3P is easily worth it. YMMV
 

OkDee

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I bought this "

Equal-i-zer 4-point Sway Control Hitch, 90-00-1069, 10,000 Lbs Trailer Weight Rating, 1,000 Lbs Tongue Weight Rating, Weight Distribution Kit Includes Standard Hitch Shank and 2-5/16" Ball "​

Installed it and it seems to have worked very well. I plan on pulling my double axle Enclosed Car Hauler up to Missouri later this month. Prior trips I did not have this and experienced sway and too much sag on my rear wheels. Driving out on local hiways in Houston, seems to have corrected these issues. Big test coming soon.​

 

Birdman_2000

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Dealer I bought my trailer from sold me on the Blue OX swaypro. I hadn't used any other brands, but so far i been really happy with it. Only issue i had was the guy at the dealership told me to use the wrong chain link and didn't explain how to verify it was tight. Once I figured out how it should be when setup properly I have had zero issues. Pretty easy to hookup and unhook.
 

downsc123

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Dealer I bought my trailer from sold me on the Blue OX swaypro. I hadn't used any other brands, but so far i been really happy with it. Only issue i had was the guy at the dealership told me to use the wrong chain link and didn't explain how to verify it was tight. Once I figured out how it should be when setup properly I have had zero issues. Pretty easy to hookup and unhook.
I use the same hitch as well for my 32' TT. Set to 10 links which get my loaded steer axle weight close to unloaded.
 

31RamIt

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I use the Equal-i-zer 10K for my little TT. Works great. No sway and zero sag. Easier to use than chain setups in my opinion.
 

Goldsy

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Curt Trutrack here. Works great and doesn’t break the bank. WDH with sway control built in.
 

Birdman_2000

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I use the same hitch as well for my 32' TT. Set to 10 links which get my loaded steer axle weight close to unloaded.
Dealership flipped out about my air bags when they installed my hitch, saying I shouldn't use them at all with the hitch. I still do use them, just doesn't take much air to get me back level. I just verify the bars have tension on them. I think I use the 9th link. My trailer empty is pretty light. Doesn't squat my truck as much as I expected.
 

31RamIt

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Dealership flipped out about my air bags when they installed my hitch, saying I shouldn't use them at all with the hitch. I still do use them, just doesn't take much air to get me back level. I just verify the bars have tension on them. I think I use the 9th link. My trailer empty is pretty light. Doesn't squat my truck as much as I expected.
They serve different purposes. WDH has a leveling effect, but ultimately you are trying to put weight evenly across the axles. airbags actually push the back of the truck up to eliminate sag.
 

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