Updated 2" Mopar Lift/Level Kit - Discussion

[EGJ16]

When you do just the mopar lift and regular front springs, the supplied UCA’s will do fine. Even with a .5” top hat spacer since its not really .5” in thickness but gives .5” in lift when you measure it. When you do the mopar lift with ORP springs, the supplied UCA’s will be at their limit as far as down travel is concerned. Now if the truck is staying on pavement and normal everyday driving, it should be fine. But some people put the Readylift UCA’s to fix the balljoint angle and not be near max when the suspension droops down.

As far as ride quality goes, its mopar hands down. The shocks are a huge difference over stock. Their bottoming out resistance is definitely noticeable. Even over some potholes and ruts in the road, you can hear the normal noise/rattles going over them but the feedback is hardly there. Its firm (in a good way) and controlled. Its good enough to where I was planning on going with Thuren or Carli 2.5” kings but that is on hold because Im enjoying the ride so far. It’ll fit my needs as a daily driver and occasional offroad trail.

I dont have any experience with the readylift 3.5 but I know quite a few people have switched to either the mopar or put bilsteins/rough country leveling struts in to get rid of the preload spacer. Another thing is that if you go with the preload spacer and decide to change lifts in the future where you have to use your factory front springs, you will need new springs. The preload will cause the springs to get shorter from being compressed. People are starting to think thats why ride quality goes down after a couple thousand miles with those kits.

Either way, good luck with either kit!! You’ll definitely enjoy the higher ride. Its how the 1500s should have come from the factory.

 

[19BlueStreakSport]

When you do just the mopar lift and regular front springs, the supplied UCA’s will do fine. Even with a .5” top hat spacer since its not really .5” in thickness but gives .5” in lift when you measure it. When you do the mopar lift with ORP springs, the supplied UCA’s will be at their limit as far as down travel is concerned. Now if the truck is staying on pavement and normal everyday driving, it should be fine. But some people put the Readylift UCA’s to fix the balljoint angle and not be near max when the suspension droops down.

As far as ride quality goes, its mopar hands down. The shocks are a huge difference over stock. Their bottoming out resistance is definitely noticeable. Even over some potholes and ruts in the road, you can hear the normal noise/rattles going over them but the feedback is hardly there. Its firm (in a good way) and controlled. Its good enough to where I was planning on going with Thuren or Carli 2.5” kings but that is on hold because Im enjoying the ride so far. It’ll fit my needs as a daily driver and occasional offroad trail.

I dont have any experience with the readylift 3.5 but I know quite a few people have switched to either the mopar or put bilsteins/rough country leveling struts in to get rid of the preload spacer. Another thing is that if you go with the preload spacer and decide to change lifts in the future where you have to use your factory front springs, you will need new springs. The preload will cause the springs to get shorter from being compressed. People are starting to think thats why ride quality goes down after a couple thousand miles with those kits.

Either way, good luck with either kit!! You’ll definitely enjoy the higher ride. Its how the 1500s should have come from the factory.

I appreciate info, I had read about the UCA being at the limit with the ORP springs which doesn’t make sense. I have read these UCAs are the ones they use in the air suspension trucks, which would have a variety of lift heights. Either way it wouldn’t be a huge concern as I commute back and fourth on the highway to work. I don’t off-road at all, the worst I see is some rutted back country roads, but nothing normal cars and trucks go through.

As for the ReadyLift and the preload spacer. I don’t have plans to use that as my research has let me to order the Bilstein 5100s for the front and the 5100 or 5160s for the rear (I’ve been told the 5100 will work and wont work since it’s a 2” lift and they are 0-1” shocks). So I will probably go with the 5160 if I go this route. Just waiting to hear back from Bilstein on this.

I guess it’s pretty much a toss between the Mopar/Fox and ReadyLift/Bilsteins , I did read one article that said the Bilsteins were better for on-road commuting and FOX is directed towards off-roading more or less.. Both are excellent shocks, heck the older lift kit (4” I think) came with Bilstein shocks. For whatever reason Mopar went with Fox this time.

For the most part, I guess these kits are almost identical except isn’t the Fox shocks longer so no preload spacer. The Bilstein 5100, you take the preload spacer out BUT isn’t moving the spring perch higher on the shock body preloading the coil as well just in a different way?

 

[19BlueStreakSport]

I would go with the Mopar kit and ORP springs. That is the route I will be going with very soon. I actually bought the Readylift 3.5” kit last year and returned it. While the same principle applies to both lifts, preload spacers like that used in the Readylift kit typically cause the ride to be a bit stiffer. The struts in the Mopar kit are better tuned for the lift and Fox is top notch.
That being said, I have the Readylift control arms and level on at the moment. I will keep the Readylift control arms on vs the Mopar ones as they have a better angle for the ball joint.
For the rear, the Bilstein shocks you mention will be fine if you go that route. They will be slightly over extended but that is no different than what you would be doing to the stock shocks.

Well the 5160 shocks will not be over extended as they are for up to 2” which is what the RL raises the back buy. If I go with the 5100 rears, it will only be if Bilstein says they will work and the ride will be ok. So I guess Readylift isn’t concerned that the factory shocks are over extended. I feel like 5160 is the way to go for a better ride.

As for the front 5100, you said that you already had the ReadyLift 3.5” kit and returned it. You also have the Readylift control arms and level kit. Can I ask why you didn’t just order the Bilstein 5100s for the front and ditch the preload spacer?

I am thinking both FOX and BILSTEIN are both top notch. What’s funny is that I used to have FOX shocks on my downhill mountain bike, they were VERY expensive lol for a bike....

 

[ksn240]

Well the 5160 shocks will not be over extended as they are for up to 2” which is what the RL raises the back buy. If I go with the 5100 rears, it will only be if Bilstein says they will work and the ride will be ok. So I guess Readylift isn’t concerned that the factory shocks are over extended. I feel like 5160 is the way to go for a better ride.

As for the front 5100, you said that you already had the ReadyLift 3.5” kit and returned it. You also have the Readylift control arms and level kit. Can I ask why you didn’t just order the Bilstein 5100s for the front and ditch the preload spacer?

I am thinking both FOX and BILSTEIN are both top notch. What’s funny is that I used to have FOX shocks on my downhill mountain bike, they were VERY expensive lol for a bike....

I just prefer the Mopar kit and Fox shocks. Also want the front to match the rear. I’m still debating a 6” lift but would have to regear to run 37s. 35s look to small on a 6” to me. If I’m not doing that than I would rather have Mopar parts.

 

[19BlueStreakSport]

So with the MOPAR kit, if they updated the kit why do you still need the ORP springs? Wasn’t the point in the upgraded kit to get rid of the rake?

I haven’t really gotten under my truck to check this stuff out right yet. I know the retroque needs to be completed with the truck on the ground where there is a bushing. For anyone who installed themselves, how hard was it to get at some of the spots with a torque wrench while it’s on the ground? I seen install instructions that say to remove the rear fender liner to get the top nut/bolt off the shocks. So if you put it back on before putting your tires on, how do you access the bolts to torque it?

Anyhow I know once I crawl under my truck I will get it all... I think install is probably pretty straight forward. It make take me a full day in my driveway but that’s fine I wouldn’t be in a rush. I will just do it when I have the full weekend incase I run into issues.

Anyhow I am leaning more towards the RL I think, because I think the RL/5100 front has a better CV angle at setting #4 (not sure with #5 setting anyone using the RL/5100 at #5 have pictures of the cv axle) The upper ball joint is at a much better angle with the RL UCA. The Bilsteins from what I read are tuned for street while FOX are more geared to off-roaring.

I am a little worried about the ball joint angle and cv angles with the Mopar/ORP. Anyone have long term opionons with these angles. They should be fine on the street if you don’t off-road and with towing as well which I don’t do often.

 

[Kingnothing]

Hello everyone, so if you haven't noticed I am buying a lift kit very soon and I have probably posted here too much based on it but so many options and I don't know which kit has the upper hand. I know both the Mopar Kit and ReadyLift are good kits, which makes it hard to decided. At least I have narrowed it down to these too. So I've got my pricing down now and wondering what you guys think before I pull the trigger on one of these. So some question I have again.

Which provides the highest lift? The best way?
Self installation, is one kit harder than the other? They seem to work the same so probably not.
I heard some others putting the ReadyLift UCA on Mopar kit, I am not interested in doing this as it will raise cost for no purpose. I am not off-roading at all, I am a pavement pounder 99.9% of the time.

All Prices In Canadian with 13% Ontario Tax (who knows this may help some other Canadians too)

ReadyLift with 5100 (front) & 5100 (rear) - $2094
ReadyLift with 5100 (front) & 5160 (rear) - $2368
Mopar lift with ORP springs (local dealer) - $2486
Mopar Lift (eBay) and ORP springs (local) - $2122

Springs are $200 from dealer, I may find them cheaper online but I doubt it. I've heard the 5100 on the rear can work and then I have heard they will over extended the shocks because they are only for 0-1" lift and the ReadyLift is 2" rear spacer.

So there isn't a HUGE price difference between any of these multiple options. I have spoken with a friend about getting a discount from the dealer as she works for FCA so price may be cheaper.

What do you all think?

What gives the best height and what gives the best ride? Or are the differences so small that it doesn't matter and just comes down to "factory parts" vs "aftermarket".

*** for warranty, when I spoke with dealer I was told FCA "could" deny warranty on tie rods, control arms, ball joints, cv axles etc.. So at this point it doesn't matter if I have the Mopar or ReadyLift, other than the Mopar I may have a better chance of no problems.

So lets have it......

I hope to place some orders starting next week once my new Borla exhaust is done and I sell off my B2 stuff. Dealer I called (FCA) said the lift kit is on back order so will take a few weeks. The springs are special order and will take up to 10 days to get.

I am very sorry for all the post about this lately.... Just trying to get everything done right the first time...

Here's better price on the springs . https://www.factorychryslerparts.com/products/SPRING-Front-Coil-Left--Right/13228431/68320249AB.html

 

[MoparGuy]

So with the MOPAR kit, if they updated the kit why do you still need the ORP springs? Wasn’t the point in the upgraded kit to get rid of the rake?

I haven’t really gotten under my truck to check this stuff out right yet. I know the retroque needs to be completed with the truck on the ground where there is a bushing. For anyone who installed themselves, how hard was it to get at some of the spots with a torque wrench while it’s on the ground? I seen install instructions that say to remove the rear fender liner to get the top nut/bolt off the shocks. So if you put it back on before putting your tires on, how do you access the bolts to torque it?

Anyhow I know once I crawl under my truck I will get it all... I think install is probably pretty straight forward. It make take me a full day in my driveway but that’s fine I wouldn’t be in a rush. I will just do it when I have the full weekend incase I run into issues.

Anyhow I am leaning more towards the RL I think, because I think the RL/5100 front has a better CV angle at setting #4 (not sure with #5 setting anyone using the RL/5100 at #5 have pictures of the cv axle) The upper ball joint is at a much better angle with the RL UCA. The Bilsteins from what I read are tuned for street while FOX are more geared to off-roaring.

I am a little worried about the ball joint angle and cv angles with the Mopar/ORP. Anyone have long term opionons with these angles. They should be fine on the street if you don’t off-road and with towing as well which I don’t do often.

Since I’ve only had my kit installed for a few weeks, I can only comment on your first sentence. The updated kit uses longer shocks so you don’t need the additional spacer. The height gain should be the same with both versions. Guys who don’t already have the ORP springs are buying them to gain an additional inch. I guarantee you that if you talk to anyone from Mopar or FCA who knows what they are talking about with these lifts, they’d probably recommend you do not install it with an ORP truck due to the UCAs being at there limit.

My truck came with ORP springs so between my lift kit and taller tires, my truck sits 4.5” higher in front and 4” higher in the rear than a non ORP truck, with stock tires of course. I love the way my truck looks and the stance now is aggressive as hell. Guys have mentioned potential ball joint and driveshaft angle issues you could have with the ORP springs but I’m fortunate to have built good relationships over the last 30 years with multiple FCA service writers and managers from different dealerships to where they would still cover me from a warranty standpoint if I do have issues down the road.

 

[TH3JUICEMAN]

For reference here is my white Ram with the updated mopar kit, additional 1/2 top hat spacer, and 285/55/22 RG. His is stock.

 

[19BlueStreakSport]

Here's better price on the springs . https://www.factorychryslerparts.com/products/SPRING-Front-Coil-Left--Right/13228431/68320249AB.html

I should mention my price was Canadian, so thats about $75usd. I checked the site out they will end up being more because of shipping. I appreciate the link tho. Once I find out if I can get the price match at the new local dealer I will ask them how much the spring are and see if they can price match the springs as well. The ones you just provided are $45usd which is $60cad so about $80 cheaper for the pair. So the link helps so I can use it for price matching.

 

[19BlueStreakSport]

Since I’ve only had my kit installed for a few weeks, I can only comment on your first sentence. The updated kit uses longer shocks so you don’t need the additional spacer. The height gain should be the same with both versions. Guys who don’t already have the ORP springs are buying them to gain an additional inch. I guarantee you that if you talk to anyone from Mopar or FCA who knows what they are talking about with these lifts, they’d probably recommend you do not install it with an ORP truck due to the UCAs being at there limit.

My truck came with ORP springs so between my lift kit and taller tires, my truck sits 4.5” higher in front and 4” higher in the rear than a non ORP truck, with stock tires of course. I love the way my truck looks and the stance now is aggressive as hell. Guys have mentioned potential ball joint and driveshaft angle issues you could have with the ORP springs but I’m fortunate to have built good relationships over the last 30 years with multiple FCA service writers and managers from different dealerships to where they would still cover me from a warranty standpoint if I do have issues down the road.

Yeah I know the ORP front springs will put the UCA at there limit. So I guess others have been getting the RL or RC UCAs to fix that problem. From what I am taking from this, even with the front ORP springs (non ORP truck) the Mopar kit still had a rake.

Is there a different between between getting a top hat spacer for the front over getting the ORP springs for the front? I assume both would still put the Mopar UCAs at the limits. Does it only really mean you may get better ride quality over jamming the ORP springs in there?

For those with the Readylift. 3.5” kit, does this one sit perfectly level without rake?

I was thinking about the Mopar and adding the RC UCAs, this would put me at the same price as buying the RL/5100/5160 but I’d end up with the kit from Mopar. Or I just leave the Mopar/ORP and wait to see if I have ball joint issues, considering I am not the road all the time.

Doesn’t seem like many people on here with the Mopar/ORP are worried about the ball joint angles unless they are off-reading. I only really only 1 member has posted pictures with the RC UCAS

The thing is, if I am changing the UCAs for the RC or RL ones... Why not just buy the ReadyLift 3.5” since it comes with nice UCA.. Plus the rear 5160 shocks has the external reservoir.

If the Mopar kit lifts the front 2” and ORP lift 1” how are people getting 3.5” out of the Mopar kit? I am just talking about lift from the Suspension, I know tires will add 1-1.5” on top of this.

 

[Grape_Ape]

@19BlueStreakSport

The Mopar kit will always have rake. You're just lifting your truck 2 inches all the way around. So whatever factory rake was already there you've just added 2 inches under it. That's it.

The ready lift has different size equipment for the front and the rear to remove some of the rake. 3.5" in the front and 2" in the rear iirc. That 1.5" is for the rake.

People do things all the time to their trucks that may or may not cause damage. That's personal preference. I would just spend the money on the UCAs vs hoping the warranty would cover it or hoping it doesn't break.

The Fox shocks may be a little better than the Bilstein. Especially considering they've been tuned specifically for our trucks. You've already mentioned you're not going to off road. Do you tow a lot? I don't see why you'd need a 5160 because you've already said you don't off road.

At this point you've figured out its going to cost you the same. They're both quality set ups. Don't think you'll go wrong with either.

 

[19BlueStreakSport]

@19BlueStreakSport

The Mopar kit will always have rake. You're just lifting your truck 2 inches all the way around. So whatever factory rake was already there you've just added 2 inches under it. That's it.

The ready lift has different size equipment for the front and the rear to remove some of the rake. 3.5" in the front and 2" in the rear iirc. That 1.5" is for the rake.

People do things all the time to their trucks that may or may not cause damage. That's personal preference. I would just spend the money on the UCAs vs hoping the warranty would cover it or hoping it doesn't break.

The Fox shocks may be a little better than the Bilstein. Especially considering they've been tuned specifically for our trucks. You've already mentioned you're not going to off road. Do you tow a lot? I don't see why you'd need a 5160 because you've already said you don't off road.

At this point you've figured out its going to cost you the same. They're both quality set ups. Don't think you'll go wrong with either.

The Bilsteins are tuned to our trucks as well if I am not wrong. The reason I mentioned the 5160 was because the 5100s listed for the rear are only good for 0-1” rear lift and since the rear is lifted 2” with the ReadyLift kit I would think the 5100 would be over extended by an since. If I am not mistaken the 5100 would be used for say the ORP springs since they are 1” higher than non-ORP.

So the 5160 are more safety net I guesss, unless Bilstein emails me back and tells me that the 5100s will work. Then I will go with 5100 because it would save me ALOT of money. I don’t off-road at all and I don’t normally tow but when I do it’s usually just a 6x12 utility trailer and probably never more then 3000lbs.

Anyhow I am still 50/50 on this, I’ve got all the information I need and this boils down to price which isn’t a huge difference either. Plus whatever I can get the soonest so I can install this while I am on holidays at the end of June. If the dealer can get the Mopar kit and ORP springs quicker I will go that route.

The only thing I don’t know is... Do you get more lift from the ReadyLift 3.5 SST or do you get more lift with he MOPAR/ORP or are they both the same? I want whichever gets the more level highest lift, as I know both have great components I just want the highest lift.

If I do go with the MOPAR/ORP then I will also end up getting the RL UCAs or RC UCAs as all of that would cost me the same as the RL/5100/5160 anyhow. May be cheaper if I can find the 67-1500 somewhere in Canada and not purchase the ReadyLift level kit.

I wonder if I get the RL UCA, would it be easy to sell their Mopar lift UCA ?

 

[19BlueStreakSport]

@19BlueStreakSport
The Fox shocks may be a little better than the Bilstein. Especially considering they've been tuned specifically for our trucks. You've already mentioned you're not going to off road. Do you tow a lot? I don't see why you'd need a 5160 because you've already said you don't off road.

Well after doing some digging around on past post on this forum (if you really dig through all the post you will find the answer). I found out that someone had messaged Bilstein in regards to the 5100 rears and the 0-1” lift. The engineers said that the 5100, work on the ORP suspension with a 1” lift. Which means that with the non-orp truck you can go up to 2” since the truck is 1” lower then ORP.

They don’t make it very clear on the site. They describe on the site 0-1” including factory off road package. I think they should have in the description 0”-1” of lift with ORP truck and 0”-2” of lift with non-ORP trucks. That would make it clear.

 

[19BlueStreakSport]

Here is a question I don't think has been brought up.

When adding the ORP springs to the Mopar 2" Kit, are the front shocks now over-extended because of this or is it within the range of motion? If not, how much are they over extending and is there bottoming out on road driving, speed bumps, pot holes etc....

 

[19BlueStreakSport]

Well here are the my final prices of both kits. Canadian Prices

$2012 Mopar & ORP
$2072 ReadyLift 5100/5160
$1802 ReadyLift 5100/5100

Mopar will cost more if I decide to switch to the RL UCAs but I think I will leave that be for the time being since it seems like everyone is fine without new ones (for road driving only like I do)

 

[19BlueStreakSport]

New part number for the lift 77072424AC

 

[19BlueStreakSport]

Well the puzzle is coming together, just picked up the 35x11.5x20 Nitto Ridge Grappler today. Just waiting on the lift to arrive and my holidays to start (end of July) so I can put it all together.

Thinking about swapping the tires tho, tire shop is find with it. I wanted the 35x12.5x20 Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs but that will rub with the factory rims. So I was going to powder coat my rims and go with the Nitto‘s. Now my friend is interested in my stock Rims/Tires as he needs new tires anyhow and his truck is a almost bare bones 2017 GMC Sierra with steel rims and hubcaps. So I figure, I sell him my package deal and then I buy some aftermarket rims. I can get the offset I need and get the tires I really wanted. I’m almost rethinking because the 11.5s look pretty damn wide lol.

I think the Duratracs are superior when it comes to snow, while both tires are great and have awesome reviews. I know the RGs have wishy washy reviews when it comes to snow. While Duratracs have positive no wishy/washy reviews when it comes to how they perform in snow. Plus they save 32.4 lbs of weight for all 4.

The GM Sierra is the same bolt pattern at the Ram correct? Isn’t the ram 6x139.7 and Sierra 6x5.5 (same as 6x139.7)

Anyhow here they are.

 

[Jeffjad]

Well the puzzle is coming together, just picked up the 35x11.5x20 Nitto Ridge Grappler today. Just waiting on the lift to arrive and my holidays to start (end of July) so I can put it all together.

Thinking about swapping the tires tho, tire shop is find with it. I wanted the 35x12.5x20 Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs but that will rub with the factory rims. So I was going to powder coat my rims and go with the Nitto‘s. Now my friend is interested in my stock Rims/Tires as he needs new tires anyhow and his truck is a almost bare bones 2017 GMC Sierra with steel rims and hubcaps. So I figure, I sell him my package deal and then I buy some aftermarket rims. I can get the offset I need and get the tires I really wanted. I’m almost rethinking because the 11.5s look pretty damn wide lol.

I think the Duratracs are superior when it comes to snow, while both tires are great and have awesome reviews. I know the RGs have wishy washy reviews when it comes to snow. While Duratracs have positive no wishy/washy reviews when it comes to how they perform in snow. Plus they save 32.4 lbs of weight for all 4.

The GM Sierra is the same bolt pattern at the Ram correct? Isn’t the ram 6x139.7 and Sierra 6x5.5 (same as 6x139.7)

Anyhow here they are.
View attachment 61473

View attachment 61476 View attachment 61475 View attachment 61472 View attachment 61471 View attachment 61470 View attachment 61469 View attachment 61474

I've never ran the duratracs so I can't speak to them but I love my RGs so far (put about 5k on them). I run the 35X11.5 with the same stock rim you have plus 1.25" Bora spacers and I have been very happy with the setup.
Something to keep in mind is the stock rim you have is actually very light compared to most 20" aftermarket rims you will find out there so trying to save weight on your tires then going with an aftermarket rim might be a wash.

 

[19BlueStreakSport]

I've never ran the duratracs so I can't speak to them but I love my RGs so far (put about 5k on them). I run the 35X11.5 with the same stock rim you have plus 1.25" Bora spacers and I have been very happy with the setup.
Something to keep in mind is the stock rim you have is actually very light compared to most 20" aftermarket rims you will find out there so trying to save weight on your tires then going with an aftermarket rim might be a wash.

What is the weight of the stock rim I wonder? I will keep that in mind when I am looking.

Just seen a set of Fuel Contra Gloss Black with Candy Blue designs. Looks like its nice and would match my truck. Debating between 20x9 or 20x10.

 

[Jeffjad]

What is the weight of the stock rim I wonder? I will keep that in mind when I am looking.

Just seen a set of Fuel Contra Gloss Black with Candy Blue designs. Looks like its nice and would match my truck. Debating between 20x9 or 20x10.

View attachment 61477 View attachment 61478

35lbs according to post #4 in this thread.

Stock wheel weights

Does anyone know what the weight of the stock 20" wheel/rim is? I can't seem to find it and would like to compare the stock setup to an aftermarket wheel that I am looking at. Also would be interesting to know what the weight of the 22" inch is as well.

5thgenrams.com