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Slight vibration
- Thread starter Bam2880
- Start date
RamCares
Spends too much time on here
Hi JOS,
I certainly understand why this would be frustrating and I apologize that your dealer was not able to assist. To clarify, when was your most recent attempt addressing this with your dealer? If you wouldn't mind following up with me via private message to provide additional details, it would be greatly appreciated so that I can best assist at this point.
Mark
RamCares
My 2020 Ram has the vibration same as the OP between 58-63 MPH. When I left the dealership and got on the freeway to drive home, the vibration was so bad my first thoughts were unless this truck has some bad tires, which could be balanced or replaced, there was no way I could ever drive this truck on a long trip.
My truck was on the indoor showroom floor so I didn't drive it before I bought it. If I had driven it, I would have passed on this one and picked another one on the lot. I did drive another truck that was on the lot which drove okay.
After putting a few miles on the truck, the vibration was not near as bad as the day I took delivery, but it was still had an obvious vibration. I was 99.9% sure it was a tire problem, so at 130 miles I took it back to the dealer to have it looked at. After sitting around for an hour, they came out and told me "they drove three other trucks and they all do it". No they don't, but I'm not going to raise my blood pressure arguing with them. I'm not a complete idiot-I did spend almost thirty years as an ASE Master/ L1 technician/shop foreman at a dealership.
At this point I'm only slightly pissed that I have to pay to diagnose and repair my brand new truck. I took it to the tire store, at 170 miles, and paid $80 to have the tires road force balanced on a Hunter Elite tire machine. All four tires were somewhat close on the balance ( .5 to 1.0 oz. ), but the road force variation was pretty bad on two tires. One was marginal at 25 lbs. another was unacceptable at 45 lbs. The machine comes up with a warning display telling you the tire is junk. You could see the flat spot on the bad tire. The tire store would not warranty the tire since it was an OEM part, which was completely understandable.
At 230 miles, another 50 mile trip and back to the dealer I go. Trying to make it easy on them, I give them all the specs I have and tell them which two tires to look at. They said they felt the vibration at 40 MPH (that's the MDS which isn't the problem) so they removed all the weights and rebalanced all four tires claiming that took care of the excessive RFV and vibration. They tell me Bridgestone won't warranty their crappy tires, but if I wanted to buy a tire I could ship the old one to Bridgestone to see if they would cover it. Still has the same vibration, so now it's back to the tire store to find the bad tire/tires again. I'll have to order a couple of tires and spend another $450 to repair my truck which has a whopping 600 miles on it now. Now that pisses me off. At least with my local tire store, I can watch them balance the tires, and if they get one that's unacceptable, they can send it back and get me another one.
Thanks a lot FCA !
My truck was on the indoor showroom floor so I didn't drive it before I bought it. If I had driven it, I would have passed on this one and picked another one on the lot. I did drive another truck that was on the lot which drove okay.
After putting a few miles on the truck, the vibration was not near as bad as the day I took delivery, but it was still had an obvious vibration. I was 99.9% sure it was a tire problem, so at 130 miles I took it back to the dealer to have it looked at. After sitting around for an hour, they came out and told me "they drove three other trucks and they all do it". No they don't, but I'm not going to raise my blood pressure arguing with them. I'm not a complete idiot-I did spend almost thirty years as an ASE Master/ L1 technician/shop foreman at a dealership.
At this point I'm only slightly pissed that I have to pay to diagnose and repair my brand new truck. I took it to the tire store, at 170 miles, and paid $80 to have the tires road force balanced on a Hunter Elite tire machine. All four tires were somewhat close on the balance ( .5 to 1.0 oz. ), but the road force variation was pretty bad on two tires. One was marginal at 25 lbs. another was unacceptable at 45 lbs. The machine comes up with a warning display telling you the tire is junk. You could see the flat spot on the bad tire. The tire store would not warranty the tire since it was an OEM part, which was completely understandable.
At 230 miles, another 50 mile trip and back to the dealer I go. Trying to make it easy on them, I give them all the specs I have and tell them which two tires to look at. They said they felt the vibration at 40 MPH (that's the MDS which isn't the problem) so they removed all the weights and rebalanced all four tires claiming that took care of the excessive RFV and vibration. They tell me Bridgestone won't warranty their crappy tires, but if I wanted to buy a tire I could ship the old one to Bridgestone to see if they would cover it. Still has the same vibration, so now it's back to the tire store to find the bad tire/tires again. I'll have to order a couple of tires and spend another $450 to repair my truck which has a whopping 600 miles on it now. Now that pisses me off. At least with my local tire store, I can watch them balance the tires, and if they get one that's unacceptable, they can send it back and get me another one.
Thanks a lot FCA !
doomtrader
Member
Can we assume that there are different reasons for something that feels to be similar?
For example etorque problems and unbalanced wheels might let people feel very similar kind of vibrations?
For example etorque problems and unbalanced wheels might let people feel very similar kind of vibrations?
The vibration felt in the eco mode is pretty much normal. On my truck, if you can get it in eco mode at 40 MPH, a vibration is pretty obvious. The constant vibration at highway speeds, whether in eco mode or not, is most likely the crappy Bridgestone tires.
I can confirm you're suspicion...my Bridgestone tires are completely shot at 26K miles. Went to Costco yesterday and had new Michelins installed, that slight vibration at highway speeds is completely gone.
doomtrader
Member
Just tried my Laramie this morning at highway. Up to 90 mph no vibrations. With around 100 mph the back of the car seems to be to light and shakes a little bit. But seems pretty normal.
My tires that the truck comes with are Good Year Wrangler 275/65/18.
My tires that the truck comes with are Good Year Wrangler 275/65/18.
FCA customer care won’t help either. I got the “ I can’t do much more on my side”. Plain bull*. It seems like something bad has to happen for them to really look into the issue. Pretty lame that’s how it has to be.
anyway we can all file complaint against a them? Maybe then someone will take the time and look into the issue.i found this website:
www.bbbprograms.org
Can I post the link from this ongoing thread to their Social Media accounts?
anyway we can all file complaint against a them? Maybe then someone will take the time and look into the issue.i found this website:
BBB AUTO LINE
BBB AUTO LINE helps businesses and consumers with automotive warranty, lemon law, class action, and manufacturer disputes in a timely, cost-effective manner
www.bbbprograms.org
Can I post the link from this ongoing thread to their Social Media accounts?
Last edited:
Hydroblueguy
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Trouble1233
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Mine was road force balanced by the dealership and it still does it I took it back and they said the vibration is normal..I wanted to trade it in for a limited sport but after seeing how they handle me with this I made sure anyone that knows me or talks to me at a gas station knows don’t mess with Chrysler..the whole system is a joke really..Go to dealer buy truck..truck has problem..return to dealer..they say they are trying to duplicate it..call Ram and post on here..ram care says they will make sure issue gets resolved..I call they say we see nothing wrong..Go up to the dealership..tech guy says well I unplugged the vibrating modules..I said let’s take it down the road..no shaking..I said plug them in now..yep we agree it’s shaking.. tech guy says maybe it’s a bad wheel or tires..changes everything..still shakes..truck sets a few more weeks call dealer..they waiting on chysler rep to tell them something..rep says does another truck do it on the lot..yes..ok it’s normal then dealer calls and says Chrysler says it’s normal..I call Chrysler they say that’s how they ride..I get pissed come on here post..Ram care comments..I’m sorry you having a issue..can you pm me your info..the process started me all over again..it’s just a big run around..they trying to get the trucks to the warranty is over..I’ve had mine since 2018 and I only got 6200 miles because I hate driving the damn thing..
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MBORO19RAM
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When these Dealers are “Roadforce balancing” as everyone is calling it on here they are messing up. I keep saying it but nobody seems to be listening. When they actually use the “Roadforce” function which the don’t really 99% of the time, they are looking for runout in the assembly. If it is over 20lbs which is approx 20 thousandths of an inch they attempt to index the tire to lower the number. That is great and is exactly what you should do. Here is where it falls apart for them. They use “Smartweight” when they actually balance and this mode leaves couple imbalance in the assembly. Couple imbalance is side to side vibration and something you will feel in your steering wheel and if bad enough will cause a steering wheel shimmy condition. This is not balancing your tires correctly at all but the Dealer techs and even Chrysler Engineers don’t know or will admit either. Even if they do know and turn it off those balancers only go down to .10 oz and those can stack up and still cause a problem. This whole issue comes from lack of understanding how to fix it and using a balancer with mediocre accuracy at best. Yes MDS, frame pods, driveshafts, differentials, etc all can cause vibrations. Without fixing the easiest thing (truly balancing tires) then they will continue to guess what it is.
This is a sensitivity issue with these trucks and yesterday’s balance does not cut it.
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This is a sensitivity issue with these trucks and yesterday’s balance does not cut it.
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Are there specific questions or instructions you would recommended to the non balancing experts here when talking to a tire shop?
If I called a bunch, how would I know which ones actually know what they are doing and would do it correctly?
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MBORO19RAM
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I would ask these questions...
1) Does your shop use low taper collet adapters on your balancer?
2) Do your technicians back cone with those collets 100% of the time?
3) Does your shop have and use pin plates 100% of the time?
4) Do your technicians perform a center check to ensure a properly mounted wheel to balancer?
5) Do your technicians perform a check spin after wheels weights are applied?
6) Do your technicians correct for residual imbalance? If so how? (On a Hunter machine turn Smartweight OFF)
7) Do your technicians check and correct for Static and Couple imbalance to under a .10oz? If so how?
8) Do your technicians ensure wheel fits tight to hub bore on car? If doesn't do you offer hub rings as a solution?
9) Do you road test vehicle after tire installation?
There are a few more questions like too little or too much tire lube when mounting. Too little tire lube and the tire may not seat correctly. Too much tire lube and the tire can move on the wheel and that will mess up your balance work. Are they re-using wheel weights, it's a horrible practice but some shops do. When have they calibrated their machine and how do they know if calibration was good. Are the cones/collets worn out or are they in good shape. Have the shop technicians been properly trained to operate equipment correctly and do they have the knowledge and skill set to correct imbalance. If so how do you know.
Here are links to the proper collets and pin plates I am referring to.
Wheel Balancer Accessories | Coats
Wheel Balancer Parts & Accessories Contact To Buy Browse By Equipment Accessories Equipment by Wheel Balancer 40mm ID Shaft Direct Drive Series HD Serie ...
www.coatsgarage.com
Double Sided Low Angle Collets, 40mm (set of 8) covering range from 2.04"-5.30"
Double Sided Low Angle Collets, 40mm (set of 8) covering range from 2.04"-5.30"
www.coatsgarage.com
Also attached are some Bulletins that discuss proper collets and mounting. They don't address pin plates which is really stupid on their part. They do discuss RFV but unfortunately place more emphasis on this than the most common causes and corrections.
I know a lot of information... Hope this helps even one RAM owner!
Thanks
Trouble1233
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I would ask these questions...
1) Does your shop use low taper collet adapters on your balancer?
2) Do your technicians back cone with those collets 100% of the time?
3) Does your shop have and use pin plates 100% of the time?
4) Do your technicians perform a center check to ensure a properly mounted wheel to balancer?
5) Do your technicians perform a check spin after wheels weights are applied?
6) Do your technicians correct for residual imbalance? If so how? (On a Hunter machine turn Smartweight OFF)
7) Do your technicians check and correct for Static and Couple imbalance to under a .10oz? If so how?
8) Do your technicians ensure wheel fits tight to hub bore on car? If doesn't do you offer hub rings as a solution?
9) Do you road test vehicle after tire installation?
There are a few more questions like too little or too much tire lube when mounting. Too little tire lube and the tire may not seat correctly. Too much tire lube and the tire can move on the wheel and that will mess up your balance work. Are they re-using wheel weights, it's a horrible practice but some shops do. When have they calibrated their machine and how do they know if calibration was good. Are the cones/collets worn out or are they in good shape. Have the shop technicians been properly trained to operate equipment correctly and do they have the knowledge and skill set to correct imbalance. If so how do you know.
Here are links to the proper collets and pin plates I am referring to.
Wheel Balancer Accessories | Coats
Wheel Balancer Parts & Accessories Contact To Buy Browse By Equipment Accessories Equipment by Wheel Balancer 40mm ID Shaft Direct Drive Series HD Serie ...Double Sided Low Angle Collets, 40mm (set of 8) covering range from 2.04"-5.30"
Double Sided Low Angle Collets, 40mm (set of 8) covering range from 2.04"-5.30"
View attachment 48197
View attachment 48198
Also attached are some Bulletins that discuss proper collets and mounting. They don't address pin plates which is really stupid on their part. They do discuss RFV but unfortunately place more emphasis on this than the most common causes and corrections.
I know a lot of information... Hope this helps even one RAM owner!
Thanks
I’ve Owned several new vehicles and have never had to explain or do any of this for a smooth ride..why now?? I’ll tell ya why..because Chrysler has a issue that can’t be resolved..they should be having the dealers do this not the buyer..but I appreciate you going out your way to help fix their problem
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MBORO19RAM
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It can be resolved with proper training and awareness, but it is up to the manufacturers. All auto manufacturers are experiencing similar issues as they all are removing weight for fuel mileage. Plus wheel designs have changed a bunch from having no lip on the wheel for weights to interference inside the hub bore requiring short taper collets for proper mounting. Not to mention tires are wider with lower profiles and with higher pressures. The industry is changing and changing fast with less and less young individuals wanting to learn the industry. The consumer is the one who pays in these situations and it really stinks.
Narg
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I had a problem with vibration years ago in another truck. The balance job was spot on. However, 3 of the 4 tires were "out of round." I figured cheap OEM tires were to blame. Finally got enough miles to justifiably replace them and it was a world difference and much smoother. I've heard also that wheels can be out of round too, which of course is also fixed by replacement.
Another thing that's highly possible is if you've had your truck "leveled" This can cause the drive shaft to become out of alignment on the CV joints and cause a vibration. I understand leveling looks cool, but mechanically it's a mistake. A few shops can help the CV alignment issue, but only a few.
Another thing that's highly possible is if you've had your truck "leveled" This can cause the drive shaft to become out of alignment on the CV joints and cause a vibration. I understand leveling looks cool, but mechanically it's a mistake. A few shops can help the CV alignment issue, but only a few.
Same with my 2020 Big Horn but seems to affect 1200rpm's up to 2000rpm's...give it a little gas take it up to 2400-3000prm's and it seems to go away. Some people are saying it's relevant to mph...but mine seems rpm's.
Scram1500
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I titled my driver side mirror down and in to see the rear tire while driving and it visibly wobbles. I had my wife drive as I looked out the window and the passenger side spins straight. I plan to swap the rears left and right and see if the wobble follows the tire and not a crooked hub or brake rotor
