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Road noise- interior

With my road noise issue I’ve found that

1. The road noise comes from the back wall like most others. Doesn’t matter the speed.​
2. When testing I had the a/c or heat on. Doesn’t matter if auto or manual control.​
3. Mute audio then manually turn off hvac system.​
4 Results were road noise drastically reduced. You could tell the vents were closing.​

Took the service rep on a road test and had him sit in the back. He confirmed he could hear the changes. A week later when I left my truck at the shop for them to work on this, center grid line missing and brake squeal I was told after 2 days that nothing was done. They couldn’t confirm the brakes(which I knew they couldn’t in warmer dry weather) but what really irritated me was that they said (this is the second time also) that I didn’t have ANC with my truck. I just looked at them dumbfounded and then laughed at them. I showed them where ALL Hemi 5.7s have ANC and showed them my window sticker showing it. They said well you don’t and instead of arguing with them I took my keys and said I’ll contact the ram specialist helping me. Well they call me an hour later saying that the tech did some more research and indeed I did have ANC (DUH) and that it was imbedded into the amp. So what are they going to do about it you ask? Nothing it appears, and I mean any of it according to the ram specialist.

Email from specialist today.

“This is (specialist name) from Chrysler Case Management
I spoke to (service reps name) today and he advised they have no further options to change the current features of your truck. (Service reps name) stated he tried different software and it has and will lead to system corruptions if applied to your unconnect system. My onsite uconnect team stated the same about module changes and potential harm to your system so it's an option to change the system to have 3 grid lines.
With regard to your break noise I was advised by the dealership they found no abnormality.
I wish there was more I could do.”

Nothing about the road noise as you can see. I love the truck but definitely not happy with the service by the dealer so far.

F5B73F24-A577-4845-A834-9C8E1064C757.jpeg
 
I'm currently working on the back wall myself because my local stealership couldn't even figure out how to fold down the seat (see earlier posts). So my plan is to hopefully eliminate or at least drastically reduce the noise from the rear wall, (the subwoofer/rear window rattle shall be another day). I've sound matted the whole rear wall along with what i could get to by folding the carpeting without further hardware removal. I could see the ground through some holes, including but not limited to seat bolt holes. I'm currently awaiting my wife with loose poly fill so that i can put some in the subwoofer box as well as the vents. I've cut some cat litter containers to cover the vents with an opening at the bottom to allow them to do their job. I'm hoping any noise from them will be directed to the floor and deadoned by carpeting and seats. The fill i will put in them will be very thin as to not block air movement but just break up sound waves. I was going to apply the factory sound deadener over this setup using 3m spray adhesive but it kept falling off so decided it was best suited for the trash. Good luck everyone because I don't think FCA is going to assist much on this clear design flaw. I will also be removing a rear door panel to see why the doors sound flimsy when closing.
 

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I'm currently working on the back wall myself because my local stealership couldn't even figure out how to fold down the seat (see earlier posts). So my plan is to hopefully eliminate or at least drastically reduce the noise from the rear wall, (the subwoofer/rear window rattle shall be another day). I've sound matted the whole rear wall along with what i could get to by folding the carpeting without further hardware removal. I could see the ground through some holes, including but not limited to seat bolt holes. I'm currently awaiting my wife with loose poly fill so that i can put some in the subwoofer box as well as the vents. I've cut some cat litter containers to cover the vents with an opening at the bottom to allow them to do their job. I'm hoping any noise from them will be directed to the floor and deadoned by carpeting and seats. The fill i will put in them will be very thin as to not block air movement but just break up sound waves. I was going to apply the factory sound deadener over this setup using 3m spray adhesive but it kept falling off so decided it was best suited for the trash. Good luck everyone because I don't think FCA is going to assist much on this clear design flaw. I will also be removing a rear door panel to see why the doors sound flimsy when closing.
Wow....nice job. Can't wait to read your results on how well it improved sound level. If you add a layer of the mvp ?dense vinyl sound deadener behind back vertical carpet I bet it will even make more improvement. You will have to look at tachometer needle to see if engine is running....lol....mine was quiet until I added Magnaflow cat back exhaust but your approach might help reduce the interior exhaust rumble that it created, even though it is acceptable.
 
I'm currently working on the back wall myself because my local stealership couldn't even figure out how to fold down the seat (see earlier posts). So my plan is to hopefully eliminate or at least drastically reduce the noise from the rear wall, (the subwoofer/rear window rattle shall be another day). I've sound matted the whole rear wall along with what i could get to by folding the carpeting without further hardware removal. I could see the ground through some holes, including but not limited to seat bolt holes. I'm currently awaiting my wife with loose poly fill so that i can put some in the subwoofer box as well as the vents. I've cut some cat litter containers to cover the vents with an opening at the bottom to allow them to do their job. I'm hoping any noise from them will be directed to the floor and deadoned by carpeting and seats. The fill i will put in them will be very thin as to not block air movement but just break up sound waves. I was going to apply the factory sound deadener over this setup using 3m spray adhesive but it kept falling off so decided it was best suited for the trash. Good luck everyone because I don't think FCA is going to assist much on this clear design flaw. I will also be removing a rear door panel to see why the doors sound flimsy when closing.

This whole situation with the dealer experience you guys have mentioned is maddening to read.

Love your solution thought process here. I was thinking a bit smaller, maybe just some foam to cover those vents. But I like your style!
 
I'm currently working on the back wall myself because my local stealership couldn't even figure out how to fold down the seat (see earlier posts). So my plan is to hopefully eliminate or at least drastically reduce the noise from the rear wall, (the subwoofer/rear window rattle shall be another day). I've sound matted the whole rear wall along with what i could get to by folding the carpeting without further hardware removal. I could see the ground through some holes, including but not limited to seat bolt holes. I'm currently awaiting my wife with loose poly fill so that i can put some in the subwoofer box as well as the vents. I've cut some cat litter containers to cover the vents with an opening at the bottom to allow them to do their job. I'm hoping any noise from them will be directed to the floor and deadoned by carpeting and seats. The fill i will put in them will be very thin as to not block air movement but just break up sound waves. I was going to apply the factory sound deadener over this setup using 3m spray adhesive but it kept falling off so decided it was best suited for the trash. Good luck everyone because I don't think FCA is going to assist much on this clear design flaw. I will also be removing a rear door panel to see why the doors sound flimsy when closing.
The doors are super light leading to that sound. Is it just the rear doors? The thought there is that closing the rear doors causes the vents to open and close quickly leading to a sort of second thud. I will be adding some dynomat and probably some mlv to all the doors. Trying to eliminate bass rattle and lessen road noise. The added weight will also make them feel beefier.
 
The doors are super light leading to that sound. Is it just the rear doors? The thought there is that closing the rear doors causes the vents to open and close quickly leading to a sort of second thud. I will be adding some dynomat and probably some mlv to all the doors. Trying to eliminate bass rattle and lessen road noise. The added weight will also make them feel beefier.


I was still waiting for my poly fill so decided to remove the ps back door panel and found a plastic door insert which has a resonance to it when knocking on the door. I loosed the back (speaker) side and seperated it as well as removed the speaker(pretty cheap looking) to aid in getting sound mat through and attached. I placed a piece over the main upper outer skin as well as a couple smaller pieces to the lower area. The door still thuds when closed but is better and stops very quickly instead of sounding more like a tuning fork. I'm guessing the engineering on these doors was from an intern. I'm not sure how you would expect such a large panel to not have a noise without support. It appears they've tried to remedy it by the upper mesh material. Unless someone were to bond a cross beam in there, i don't think it will go away. I'll finish assembling the interior tomorrow and report back on sound level
 

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I was still waiting for my poly fill so decided to remove the ps back door panel and found a plastic door insert which has a resonance to it when knocking on the door. I loosed the back (speaker) side and seperated it as well as removed the speaker(pretty cheap looking) to aid in getting sound mat through and attached. I placed a piece over the main upper outer skin as well as a couple smaller pieces to the lower area. The door still thuds when closed but is better and stops very quickly instead of sounding more like a tuning fork. I'm guessing the engineering on these doors was from an intern. I'm not sure how you would expect such a large panel to not have a noise without support. It appears they've tried to remedy it by the upper mesh material. Unless someone were to bond a cross beam in there, i don't think it will go away. I'll finish assembling the interior tomorrow and report back on sound level
You, Sir. Have balls of steel! Please let us how much this reduces cabin noise.
 
The doors are super light leading to that sound. Is it just the rear doors? The thought there is that closing the rear doors causes the vents to open and close quickly leading to a sort of second thud. I will be adding some dynomat and probably some mlv to all the doors. Trying to eliminate bass rattle and lessen road noise. The added weight will also make them feel beefier.
My passenger rear door was not close enough to the body so I adjusted the catch about 2 to 3 mm inward ..... Made all the difference in how the door sounded when closed
 
Sound has improved! I can't hear vehicles next to me and passing me on the highway anymore. I feel as though I'm just in tune to any noise now so I'm questioning all sounds. It seems like i can hear the engine noise through the firewall pretty clearly now too. I've also fixed the rear window by carefully prying on the upper plastic track and inserting a small piece of paper on either side to act as a small shim. I can send photos if anyone would like.
 
Sound has improved! I can't hear vehicles next to me and passing me on the highway anymore. I feel as though I'm just in tune to any noise now so I'm questioning all sounds. It seems like i can hear the engine noise through the firewall pretty clearly now too. I've also fixed the rear window by carefully prying on the upper plastic track and inserting a small piece of paper on either side to act as a small shim. I can send photos if anyone would like.
Is this road test with interior apart or all back together? Do the vents still seem to work properly with baffles over them like when closing doors, etc? Thanks
 
Sound has improved! I can't hear vehicles next to me and passing me on the highway anymore. I feel as though I'm just in tune to any noise now so I'm questioning all sounds. It seems like i can hear the engine noise through the firewall pretty clearly now too. I've also fixed the rear window by carefully prying on the upper plastic track and inserting a small piece of paper on either side to act as a small shim. I can send photos if anyone would like.
Your resolve is fantastic. I'm sure the community would love as many pictures as possible.

I've been thinking of doing 3 layers of insulation myself on the back wall: butyl rubber base layer>closed cell foam>mass loaded vinyl. I dont have any problems with noise in my truck, but the wind noise here is noticeable. This seems like a great project to make this truck dead silent.
 
Is this road test with interior apart or all back together? Do the vents still seem to work properly with baffles over them like when closing doors, etc? Thanks


All interior back together with no adverse effects of cabin pressure either opening or closing doors. I honestly do not feel the sound mat helped as much as the baffling of the vents.
 
All interior back together with no adverse effects of cabin pressure either opening or closing doors. I honestly do not feel the sound mat helped as much as the baffling of the vents.
Maybe just put baffles over vents with down facing inside opening might be all thats needed you think? Maybe hang a sheet of the mlv (mass loaded vinyl) just behind cab back carpet that members speak highly of?
 
All interior back together with no adverse effects of cabin pressure either opening or closing doors. I honestly do not feel the sound mat helped as much as the baffling of the vents.
Good info. Baffles seem like good idea. And since we have 4 cats...litter containers, as you describe above, seem like a logical choice for me too.
 
I can't speak to a full sheet of mlv over baffles but that may interfere with air movement depending on placement. But i believe at minimum people should try the baffles to see how they fare alone. Just make sure you dont add too much poly fill.
 
Has anyone tried just replacing the two vents in the rear cab wall? Seems that perhaps they have a variance in how much pressure from inside the cab, or vacuum from outside the cab, it would take to open them.

In my truck I do from time to time hear a difference in road noise from the back of the cab that’s in-line with what others here report. But I find it only happens somewhat randomly, and certainly not all the time. It will even cycle from quiet to noisy to quiet again during a single drive. What I wonder is if under certain driving or wind conditions there is a vacuum created between the cab and bed, and this is actually lower pressure than inside the cab. Or the air rushing past the vents for some reason alters direction and forces the vents open? Just a theory I haven’t seen mentioned yet.
 
Has anyone tried just replacing the two vents in the rear cab wall? Seems that perhaps they have a variance in how much pressure from inside the cab, or vacuum from outside the cab, it would take to open them.

In my truck I do from time to time hear a difference in road noise from the back of the cab that’s in-line with what others here report. But I find it only happens somewhat randomly, and certainly not all the time. It will even cycle from quiet to noisy to quiet again during a single drive. What I wonder is if under certain driving or wind conditions there is a vacuum created between the cab and bed, and this is actually lower pressure than inside the cab. Or the air rushing past the vents for some reason alters direction and forces the vents open? Just a theory I haven’t seen mentioned yet.


I for one will not be removing my bed to replace these vents. I would be surprised if you could do it without bed removal or at minimum scratching paint badly. The only adverse effect, if you would even call it that, to my "fix" would be that now if I go through a car wash with the blower on medium to high speed I will get bubbles in the front corners of the windows where the glass meets the seals. Im perfectly ok with this!
 
I for one will not be removing my bed to replace these vents. I would be surprised if you could do it without bed removal or at minimum scratching paint badly. The only adverse effect, if you would even call it that, to my "fix" would be that now if I go through a car wash with the blower on medium to high speed I will get bubbles in the front corners of the windows where the glass meets the seals. Im perfectly ok with this!

I’d worry a little about air pressure in the cab in the event your airbags deploy. Might a sudden pressure change damage your eardrums for example? I think that’s another reason those vents exist.

I couldn’t see closely from pics others posted but I would suspect maybe those vents mount from inside the cab.
 
Only owned my 2019 Laramie for a little over a week, but I concluded that the road noise is mostly gone with the rear seat down. I typically leave it folded up, like on my 2010 and 2014 Rams. Not sure if they had the same vent arrangement, but the false floor they had probably masked the noise since they were quiet. I can see on my 2019 how the seat down can deflect at least some of the road noise from entering the cab from the vents. I may also add the missing seal between the box and cab also.
 
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Hi Bigtone. I also typically drive with the rear seats up and tool bags on the floor. From the drivers position there is a noticeable amount of road noise coming from the passenger side rear seat area. I recently had the brake pedal recall done and had the dealer install (no labor charge) the horizontal bed to cab seal. It is quieter now and I believe it is worth the $22 I paid for it.
 

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