Removing AGS and Active Air Dam

[frisby5]

I can confirm, if you remove the lower active air damn, no CEL, but you will have 2-codes if you scan.
AlfaOBD has an options to disable the Active Air Dam - and those codes won't come up.
However, the AlfaOBD option for Active Grill does not seem to affect the AGS codes from displaying.
For now, if you remove the grill shutters, zip-tie the motor is the only way to go.
Option B is to remove the SES for the AGS codes in the PCM using HPtuners

Does AlfaObd disable the AGS without removing them ? I seen the option on the App.

 

[HSKR R/T]

Does AlfaObd disable the AGS without removing them ? I seen the option on the App.

I switched my AAD off in alfaOBD, after removing tmit. Not sure if it made any difference. When the connector got wet from snow it still triggered a code for AGS.

 

[frisby5]

I switched my AAD off in alfaOBD, after removing tmit. Not sure if it made any difference. When the connector got wet from snow it still triggered a code for AGS.

Did you try turning off the AGS in Alfa ? Im more worries about my AGS since i live in Phoenix area AZ it gets hot here in the summer ,im installing a 195 thermostat before summer.

 

[frisby5]

Here is a snapshot of the Alfa AGS selection

 

[HSKR R/T]

Did you try turning off the AGS in Alfa ? Im more worries about my AGS since i live in Phoenix area AZ it gets hot here in the summer ,im installing a 195 thermostat before summer.

I wouldn't worry about your AGS. The PCM is smart enough to open them if needed to help cool down.

And installing a 195 thermostat won't help unless you get a custom tune to adjust when the electric fans turn on, and adjust fuel/spark tables for the lower engine temp.

 

[Darksteel165]

And installing a 195 thermostat won't help unless you get a custom tune

Which I would recommend getting anyways.
I also don't think a 195 vs the stock 203 would make a big enough of a difference. I am told 180s are the way to go, and anything colder can cause slow but long term damage, also 160 throws ECM codes.

 

[HSKR R/T]

Which I would recommend getting anyways.
I also don't think a 195 vs the stock 203 would make a big enough of a difference. I am told 180s are the way to go, and anything colder can cause slow but long term damage, also 160 throws ECM codes.

On a tuned truck where you are increasing timing to get more powers, yes, most tuners will recommend a 180 t-stat to help prevent detonation so they can run hotter timing.

 

[Gumpa]

I completely removed the AGS yesterday, left the motor plugged in. No CEL's yet. I had already installed a 190 thermostat, but the shutters were still trying to achieve 203+ degrees so the truck would run at 190-192 when moving but creep up to 215 when not moving, at that point the fan would come on and bring it back down to 203. I had my tuner adjust the fan temps so now it runs between 190 and 203 depending on airflow over the radiator. No more 215 to 220+ when stuck in traffic!

The AGS temps are not tunable, that is why they need to be removed or partially removed to get good results from a thermostat change. Also when the shutters are closed they are blocking the stock air intake. Also I have heard that the Vararam intakes do better with at least some of the shutters removed from the top.

I am running a Gates 190 degree thermostat from Rock Auto, there are more choices than just 180 or 203 degrees. 180 seemed to low for me up here in the great white north! Heat was still fine last winter with the 190.

There is flexible shrouding christmas tree clipped on the sides and bottom of the AGS, I left that in place on the truck. It keeps all the air coming in the grill going through the radiator or into the air intake. Used gorilla duct tape on the side shrouds to attach it to the radiator overflow bottle and windshield washer bottle. Used 4 zip ties on the bottom shroud to attach the front of the shroud to the crossmember it is laying on.

Some good posts/videos:

AGS removal- Active Grill Shutter Removal

Grille removal (with fender flares)- Headlight removal

Good video (no fender flares)-

 

[Darksteel165]

I completely removed the AGS yesterday, left the motor plugged in. No CEL's yet. I had already installed a 190 thermostat, but the shutters were still trying to achieve 203+ degrees so the truck would run at 190-192 when moving but creep up to 215 when not moving, at that point the fan would come on and bring it back down to 203. I had my tuner adjust the fan temps so now it runs between 190 and 203 depending on airflow over the radiator. No more 215 to 220+ when stuck in traffic!

The AGS temps are not tunable, that is why they need to be removed or partially removed to get good results from a thermostat change. Also when the shutters are closed they are blocking the stock air intake. Also I have heard that the Vararam intakes do better with at least some of the shutters removed from the top.

Could you expand upon what was happening for me?

I understand the temps around 190 with a thermostat, but I don't understand 215 when idle.

My truck never gets over 203 when idle with the stock 203 thermostat.
When moving it can vary around 200 and under heavy load (WOT 100mph+) hit 215

I have been considering do a 180 (I am not concerned about heat in the winter, and i'm not sure how that would increase the temp... when idle?
I do have a tuner and he actually said I should get a 180 and he would turn it in.
I have AGS and a Vararam (no beauty cover installed)

 

[HSKR R/T]

Could you expand upon what was happening for me?

I understand the temps around 190 with a thermostat, but I don't understand 215 when idle.

My truck never gets over 203 when idle with the stock 203 thermostat.
When moving it can vary around 200 and under heavy load (WOT 100mph+) hit 215

I have been considering do a 180 (I am not concerned about heat in the winter, and i'm not sure how that would increase the temp... when idle?
I do have a tuner and he actually said I should get a 180 and he would turn it in.
I have AGS and a Vararam (no beauty cover installed)

Unless you have adjusted your radiator fan turn in temps, your engine WILL hit 215-220 at idle when sitting, especially in warmer air temps. The electric fans don't kick on until then, and with no airflow over the radiator there is no way your truck will stay at 203.

 

[HSKR R/T]

I completely removed the AGS yesterday, left the motor plugged in. No CEL's yet. I had already installed a 190 thermostat, but the shutters were still trying to achieve 203+ degrees so the truck would run at 190-192 when moving but creep up to 215 when not moving, at that point the fan would come on and bring it back down to 203. I had my tuner adjust the fan temps so now it runs between 190 and 203 depending on airflow over the radiator. No more 215 to 220+ when stuck in traffic!

The AGS temps are not tunable, that is why they need to be removed or partially removed to get good results from a thermostat change. Also when the shutters are closed they are blocking the stock air intake. Also I have heard that the Vararam intakes do better with at least some of the shutters removed from the top.

I am running a Gates 190 degree thermostat from Rock Auto, there are more choices than just 180 or 203 degrees. 180 seemed to low for me up here in the great white north! Heat was still fine last winter with the 190.

There is flexible shrouding christmas tree clipped on the sides and bottom of the AGS, I left that in place on the truck. It keeps all the air coming in the grill going through the radiator or into the air intake. Used gorilla duct tape on the side shrouds to attach it to the radiator overflow bottle and windshield washer bottle. Used 4 zip ties on the bottom shroud to attach the front of the shroud to the crossmember it is laying on.

Some good posts/videos:

AGS removal- Active Grill Shutter Removal

Grille removal (with fender flares)- Headlight removal

Good video (no fender flares)-

If you hadn't adjusted your fan settings, then there is no way your truck would maintain 190 degrees at idle, grill shutters or not. And IIRC, the grill shutters aren't closed at idle once engine reaches operating temps. Also, grill shutters or not, once the fan kick on, it will lower engine temps. There was basically no reason to remove them.

As far as the air intakes, when driving down the road, even with the shutters closed, there is enough airflow to keep cool air going to the intakes, with when little air the engine even needs at that point. The grill shutters don't completely block off the entire radiator. You'd be better off swapping the lower grill insert to the open one used in the Eco diesels than removing the grill shutters.

 

[Darksteel165]

Unless you have adjusted your radiator fan turn in temps, your engine WILL hit 215-220 at idle when sitting, especially in warmer air temps. The electric fans don't kick on until then, and with no airflow over the radiator there is no way your truck will stay at 203.

It's possible the radiator fan was adjusted by the tune and I just never realized before

 

[frisby5]

I removed my (Active Grill Shutters) AGS and the (Active Air Dam) AAD as well. Its been a couple of months and no codes yet. I did remove the motor from the AGS, left it pluged in and zip tied the motor to cross member forward of the radiator. As far as the AAD, I unplugged it, coiled the wire bundle up, zip tied it to the frame and taped the end for water proofing. As a bonus I removed the factory thermostat and installed a 180 deg

Do you still have warranty ? Just wondering if CFA will say anything if making changes like this . Im looking to do some of these mods

 

[Gumpa]

If you hadn't adjusted your fan settings, then there is no way your truck would maintain 190 degrees at idle, grill shutters or not. And IIRC, the grill shutters aren't closed at idle once engine reaches operating temps. Also, grill shutters or not, once the fan kick on, it will lower engine temps. There was basically no reason to remove them.

As far as the air intakes, when driving down the road, even with the shutters closed, there is enough airflow to keep cool air going to the intakes, with when little air the engine even needs at that point. The grill shutters don't completely block off the entire radiator. You'd be better off swapping the lower grill insert to the open one used in the Eco diesels than removing the

When stock my truck would run 203 when moving but I have seen temps as high as 224 when stopped in traffic. I changed the stat to a 190 last fall, it would run 192 all day when moving but since the fan didn't start until it hit 216 or so I would still see the high temps when not moving. The tune dropped the fan on temp to 203. I did not try the tune prior to removing the AGS, it may have worked as you say but it seemed silly to be running the fan with the slats closed. We'll see how long it takes to warm up next winter. I can always put the AGS back in if it's an issue.

It is important to understand that the AGS set temp is around 203 and is separate from the fan set temps and is not tunable. So with a stat lower than 203, the AGS are always going to be closed, or maybe cycle open for only a very short time as temps hit 203 and the fan starts.

The lower grill opening used on the eco diesels must use a different shroud in front of the radiator, otherwise all that air is just going under the truck.

 

[AWAKEN]

Do you still have warranty ? Just wondering if CFA will say anything if making changes like this . Im looking to do some of these mods

No. My warranty was up some time ago. Good luck with the mods.

 

[mike_ct]

I noticed that after changing the cooling fan pwm table in hptuners, I can lower the requested temperature and this seems to affect when the fan comes on and the grill opens. even with a stock t-stat, I was able to lower my engine temps 10 degrees just with the setting.

 

[Tkerl]

Long story short I got a CEL from removing my Active Air Damper...

i initially decided to remove it because a darn racoon destroyed it, and it costs $730 to replace the whole system. After the incident I initially unplugged the power going to the AAD and there was no CEL. Then a few days later I unbolted and completely removed the system all together, still no CEL. Drove for about 1.5 weeks and then suddenly when I came to a stop before shutting off my truck the CEL popped up... from what I’ve seen everyone here never got a CEL, but I did frustratingly. I plan on just bolting on the motor and plugging in the power connector from the AAD so that it at least completes the loop electronically and hopefully the computer thinks all is well.

...Any other thoughts gentlemen?

Did it work?