What's new
By:
5thGenRams Forums

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Removing AGS and Active Air Dam

Darksteel165 said:
But it does actually in fact disable it?
So I could do drives with and without it turning on without taking my truck apart to see if it's worth it for me?
Click to expand...
I haven’t confirmed, but in my testing, the bcm setting for air dam accessed via alfa is not recognized or pulled by the pcm, so the setting doesn’t seem to do anything. Might be a pcm software bug or hardcoding.
 
I finally bit the bullet and took the front of my 2020 Ram 1500 apart, in order to get to the AGS. It was a painful 45-50 minutes. First, you have to remove a whole bunch (maybe 20 or so) of fasteners and bolts on the radiator plastic top cover, and just below the cover. You can now remove the plastic side-to-side cover, and the bolts will free up the grill on the top end. Then, you have to remove (or peel back) the front wheel well covers on both sides - just enough to get to one bolt on each side which holds the "wrap around the corner" facia in place. I actually removed the front wheels to make this easier. Then when you have that bolt out from each side, you have to release the facia from the wheel well side (tricky) and fold it out towards the front/center. If you're lucky, you can snap it out of place (from the grill) without breaking the plastic tabs. Another way to proceed is just to hold the facia out about 3" so that you can gain access to 3 more bolts that have to be removed from each side of the grill. (for some reason the standard bolts are like 3 times longer than they need to be so this will take a few minutes per bolt). Then you can remove the grill, with the facia hanging on to the grill (safest way, but exercise caution). At that point, you'll be staring at the AGS. I removed all of the blades other than the middle (which is now the "drive" blade on my 5th gen), and one on the top and one on the bottom of the AGS. Then I put everything back together (CAREFUL with the facia) again, in reverse order. Total job 1.5-2.0 hours first time through. If it wasn't for the facia, and the challenge removing them, this would be a SIMPLE job.
Interesting tidbit -- With the truck OFF, keys in the house, there is power to the AGS. When I would move the blades by hand, the motor would turn on a few seconds later, and return the blades to their home position.
So far, about 3 weeks now, my water temps will hover around 203 degrees, then drop down to 196 or so when the thermostat opens, and kind of bounces back and forth between those two temps. I have NOT seen the high temps (220+), which I frequently saw prior to the AGS mod that I did.
Thanks.
John
 
schmidja said:
I finally bit the bullet and took the front of my 2020 Ram 1500 apart, in order to get to the AGS. It was a painful 45-50 minutes. First, you have to remove a whole bunch (maybe 20 or so) of fasteners and bolts on the radiator plastic top cover, and just below the cover. You can now remove the plastic side-to-side cover, and the bolts will free up the grill on the top end. Then, you have to remove (or peel back) the front wheel well covers on both sides - just enough to get to one bolt on each side which holds the "wrap around the corner" facia in place. I actually removed the front wheels to make this easier. Then when you have that bolt out from each side, you have to release the facia from the wheel well side (tricky) and fold it out towards the front/center. If you're lucky, you can snap it out of place (from the grill) without breaking the plastic tabs. Another way to proceed is just to hold the facia out about 3" so that you can gain access to 3 more bolts that have to be removed from each side of the grill. (for some reason the standard bolts are like 3 times longer than they need to be so this will take a few minutes per bolt). Then you can remove the grill, with the facia hanging on to the grill (safest way, but exercise caution). At that point, you'll be staring at the AGS. I removed all of the blades other than the middle (which is now the "drive" blade on my 5th gen), and one on the top and one on the bottom of the AGS. Then I put everything back together (CAREFUL with the facia) again, in reverse order. Total job 1.5-2.0 hours first time through. If it wasn't for the facia, and the challenge removing them, this would be a SIMPLE job.
Interesting tidbit -- With the truck OFF, keys in the house, there is power to the AGS. When I would move the blades by hand, the motor would turn on a few seconds later, and return the blades to their home position.
So far, about 3 weeks now, my water temps will hover around 203 degrees, then drop down to 196 or so when the thermostat opens, and kind of bounces back and forth between those two temps. I have NOT seen the high temps (220+), which I frequently saw prior to the AGS mod that I did.
Thanks.
John
Click to expand...
Thanks for the detailed instructions!
 
KentuckYCobrA said:
Hello all! Just wanted to give my experience with the new 1500 AGS and active air dam system.

As some of you already know, the 4th gen 1500's also have AGS. If you want to delete the AGS and don't want to have a CEL staring you in the face, you need to have a delete kit. Well, if you own a 5th gen 1500, I'm happy to report that you do NOT need a delete kit. I removed mine and instantly noticed that the motor controlling the shutters is very much different. Not only does it look different, it operates differently. Just simply pull out the motor and zip tie it to the frame... boom. Done. No CEL.

Additionally, I removed my lower bumper molding and active air dam system (not just the dam, but the whole entire system). Doing so will NOT cause a CEL to show up on the dash. I've been running my truck like this for 1k miles, no issues.

Unfortunately, I didn't take pics of these mods, but I would be more than happy to walk anyone through the process
Click to expand...
Did you remove the whole assembly of the air dam and just simply u plugged it from the motor?
 
I removed my (Active Grill Shutters) AGS and the (Active Air Dam) AAD as well. Its been a couple of months and no codes yet. I did remove the motor from the AGS, left it pluged in and zip tied the motor to cross member forward of the radiator. As far as the AAD, I unplugged it, coiled the wire bundle up, zip tied it to the frame and taped the end for water proofing. As a bonus I removed the factory thermostat and installed a 180 deg :cool:
 
20Rammer said:
I removed my (Active Grill Shutters) AGS and the (Active Air Dam) AAD as well. It’s been a couple of months and no codes yet. I did remove the motor from the AGS, left it pluged in and zip tied the motor to cross member forward of the radiator. As far as the AAD, I unplugged it, coiled the wire bundle up, zip tied it to the frame and taped the end for water proofing. As a bonus I removed the factory thermostat and installed a 180 deg :cool:
Click to expand...

I noticed, in hptuners you can adjust the fan pwm table. And instead of 215, you can have the actual fan come on earlier, and truck runs so much cooler now. Less knock!
 
mike_ct said:
I noticed, in hptuners you can adjust the fan pwm table. And instead of 215, you can have the actual fan come on earlier, and truck runs so much cooler now. Less knock!
Click to expand...
I'm running a DiabloSport, I will have to check that out. Thanks!!
 
20Rammer said:
Sean Powell at Dodge, Jeep & Chrysler Tuning | Jeep Chip | Dodge Programmer & More | Diablo | SCT (AKA HemiFever) does all my tuning. I am using the DiabloSport Trinity software.
Click to expand...
I have an i3 platinum.
You can't change the fan speed on the tuner itself.
It might be an option for your guy that does your tune with the CMR software though.

Did you already change to a 180 thermostat from the 203 that comes on our trucks? Would make a much bigger difference then adjusting the radiator fan speed imo.
I haven't been able to order one since the middle of 2022, They all claim in stuck but never ship.
I tried to get an MIL-16406.
 
Darksteel165 said:
I have an i3 platinum.
You can't change the fan speed on the tuner itself.
It might be an option for your guy that does your tune with the CMR software though.

Did you already change to a 180 thermostat from the 203 that comes on our trucks? Would make a much bigger difference then adjusting the radiator fan speed imo.
I haven't been able to order one since the middle of 2022, They all claim in stuck but never ship.
I tried to get an MIL-16406.
Click to expand...
I will have to look into that. Yes I changed to a 180. It seems to be doing good most driving and on the highway I stay at 186. But some city driving it will creep up to 201 depending on the weather. MOE'S performance has them in stock if your still inquiring. Cooling
 
for what's it worth mentioning, the PMW fan on these trucks is way more powerful than the older multi-speed units. But, it sounds like a damn jet engine when it's up and running. If I set the table to 195, truck will literally stay at 195 all day long. no creeping. factory was super hot, 220+. I'm cheap so I just run 87 octane. the difference in knock/retard at 195 vs 220 is huge. I dunno. to each his own I guess. I found a sweet spot with stock t-stat at 202-204. where the its way better than 220 and fan doesn't dream constantly. really interested in either an AGS delete or t-stat.
normally I hate 180 stats because I freeze in the winter. maybe a 180 stat and retain the AGS for quicker warmups, its a best of both worlds situation?
 
mike_ct said:
for what's it worth mentioning, the PMW fan on these trucks is way more powerful than the older multi-speed units. But, it sounds like a damn jet engine when it's up and running. If I set the table to 195, truck will literally stay at 195 all day long. no creeping. factory was super hot, 220+. I'm cheap so I just run 87 octane. the difference in knock/retard at 195 vs 220 is huge. I dunno. to each his own I guess. I found a sweet spot with stock t-stat at 202-204. where the its way better than 220 and fan doesn't dream constantly. really interested in either an AGS delete or t-stat.
normally I hate 180 stats because I freeze in the winter. maybe a 180 stat and retain the AGS for quicker warmups, its a best of both worlds situation?
Click to expand...
To me 190 - 195 would have been great. I understand your winters. I live in the sultry south where winters are normally mild, today is 75 degrees. Summers are the worse. So anything I can do to keep the ole temps down I'm good for. Mine seems to be doing good 186 steady on the highway. As far as the AGS. I have a friend, his motor went out when the shutters were closed and had serious heating issues until he removed the system. And hearing that was good enough reason for me to remove mine.
 
20Rammer said:
I will have to look into that. Yes I changed to a 180. It seems to be doing good most driving and on the highway I stay at 186. But some city driving it will creep up to 201 depending on the weather. MOE'S performance has them in stock if your still inquiring. Cooling
Click to expand...
Just curious, are there less extreme thermostat change alternatives, like 192 or 195? Have leads on anything like that?
 
www.vicedesign.ca

Bumper Active Grille Shutter Delete Kit | 5th Gen | 19-23 EcoDiesel

Have an Eco-diesel powered 1500 or rebel and want to upgrade to an aftermarket bumper? Well too bad you'll get a check engine light ... until now, thanks to this VICE Design Kit! Use our simple kit allows you to remove the active grill shutters, located in the Bumper, from your RAM 1500 or Rebel...
www.vicedesign.ca www.vicedesign.ca

Should work in a gasser as well, since it has the same AGS. I have sent an email to Vice Design to verify if it will work on the 5.7 Hemi as well. I really do not see why it would not.
 
GWillings said:
www.vicedesign.ca

Bumper Active Grille Shutter Delete Kit | 5th Gen | 19-23 EcoDiesel

Have an Eco-diesel powered 1500 or rebel and want to upgrade to an aftermarket bumper? Well too bad you'll get a check engine light ... until now, thanks to this VICE Design Kit! Use our simple kit allows you to remove the active grill shutters, located in the Bumper, from your RAM 1500 or Rebel...
www.vicedesign.ca www.vicedesign.ca

Should work in a gasser as well, since it has the same AGS. I have sent an email to Vice Design to verify if it will work on the 5.7 Hemi as well. I really do not see why it would not.
Click to expand...
It should work. Especially for those who are getting a "Check Eng Light" I'm a little over 2 months since removing my AGS system and still no light.
 
If only I could install this without taking anything apart...
Would likely make my Vararam much happier.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 2 (members: 0, guests: 2)

Site Vendors

https://www.jasonlewisautomotive.com/

Members online

... and 5 more.
Total: 535 (members: 55, guests: 480)
Back
Top