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Remote Mount Oil Filter

6of36

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I've always done well with Motorcraft FL-1A filters. With a filter relocation kit installed, I can now use them on my 5.7L Ram.
Ocassionally, I'll use the even larger Motorcraft FL-299 or WIX 51773 filters.

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Steve
I already bought the Pacbrake, but curious, are those filters in series, for extra filtering, or parallel, for more flow?
 

Ramboh

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Such is life guys. The specs and tests don't lie, Fram XG2 crushes the wix in every metric. Lots of discussion on "the other ram forum" and bitog about these filters. I'm just reporting the information I've picked up.

Normally I wouldn't care, I'd just run any filter, but the hemi is particularly sensitive with it's needle bearing failures, and its crucial that any deposits or carbon or varnish be kept out of those bearings at all costs. I'd never run anything with the poor efficiency rating of the wix on a hemi. Other cars its probably totally ok.

Edit: the hemi is also particularly a dirty engine. Double trouble when added to the lifter failures.
I have read concerns about the Cold startup oil pressure being 75psi + When using the XG2. I currently run the Larger Wix 57899XP and cold startup pressure is around 60-62psi.
 

A-TEAM

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Not at the moment. Looks the same, but without the mounts hanging down off the frame. With my front bumper, they stood out like a sore thumb and had to go. Which means the pacbrske filter would be easily visible from the side if i hadn't removed them
Here is a side view of my setup. Westin pro mod bumper and skid plate. The pacbrake mounts the filter inside and above the frame rails, even using the larger filter. So its not really visable from the side other than a couple fittings, even with an off road style bumper.
 

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My1stHemi

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I have read concerns about the Cold startup oil pressure being 75psi + When using the XG2. I currently run the Larger Wix 57899XP and cold startup pressure is around 60-62psi.
I've been running the XG2 oil filter for years and do not see that PSI at cold start. Maybe mid 50s with 5w-30 Penzoil Ultra Platinum. Warm idle psi is upper 20's.
 

HSKR R/T

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Here is a side view of my setup. Westin pro mod bumper and skid plate. The pacbrake mounts the filter inside and above the frame rails, even using the larger filter. So its not really visable from the side other than a couple fittings, even with an off road style bumper.
Here's mine without the AAD mounts
 

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silver billet

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I have read concerns about the Cold startup oil pressure being 75psi + When using the XG2. I currently run the Larger Wix 57899XP and cold startup pressure is around 60-62psi.

Mine has never been that high. Low 60s sounds about right for me as well.
 

A-TEAM

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The nice thing about the remote oil filter is it makes it easy if you want to change the filter mid oil cycle. I have a neighbor who swears by that method. He runs amsoil, 6k intervals and changes the filter at 3k with a top off. All his cars have 200k+ miles and still run great. Id rather have a new mid grade filter than a clogged up expensive filter anyday. He tells me the oil is fine to run to higher milage but a filter is pretty hit by 3k+.
For the record Ive ran every filter out there but usually use wix or mopar now. I never have issues with either of them.
 

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Series would be wrong, and I can't think of a reason to do it that way.
They are in parallel.
A lot of filter systems filter in series, with cheaper prefilters, then an expensive filter, with finer filtering. You can never assume.
 

Carlos.33193

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After 3-4 years running the pacbrake relocation kit I've started to notice a small leak coming from the top where it mates to the original threads. I haven't seen anything on my driveway so it's gotta be tiny or maybe just under pressure when the engine is running. Anyone seen this on their setup?

Unfortunately I didn't notice until after I changed my oil this weekend, or I'd have taken it out and reseat the whole thing.. maybe I should try and tighten it? I don't really remember how it goes on.
 

IGotaBigHorn1

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The nice thing about the remote oil filter is it makes it easy if you want to change the filter mid oil cycle. I have a neighbor who swears by that method. He runs amsoil, 6k intervals and changes the filter at 3k with a top off. All his cars have 200k+ miles and still run great. Id rather have a new mid grade filter than a clogged up expensive filter anyday. He tells me the oil is fine to run to higher milage but a filter is pretty hit by 3k+.
For the record Ive ran every filter out there but usually use wix or mopar now. I never have issues with either of them.
Dude I have been using Amsoil for years on end in all my meaning full engines. Amsoil is prob the best oil out there, and until proven different I will continue to believe so. We have done torture tests literally cooking their oil over 500 degrees in a Harley motor. When we sent the oil to the lab to be tested for its properties, it came back almost like new. The lab said we can easily keep running this oil despite the extreme abuse.
 

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After 3-4 years running the pacbrake relocation kit I've started to notice a small leak coming from the top where it mates to the original threads. I haven't seen anything on my driveway so it's gotta be tiny or maybe just under pressure when the engine is running. Anyone seen this on their setup?

Unfortunately I didn't notice until after I changed my oil this weekend, or I'd have taken it out and reseat the whole thing.. maybe I should try and tighten it? I don't really remember how it goes on.
The adapter plate is held on by the center fitting. You will probably need to at least undo the middle hose to tighten it up more. It maybe wouldnt hurt to contact pac brake and get a new set of o-rings for the plate if that is the problem.
 

1BADRAMLIMITED

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Dude I have been using Amsoil for years on end in all my meaning full engines. Amsoil is prob the best oil out there, and until proven different I will continue to believe so. We have done torture tests literally cooking their oil over 500 degrees in a Harley motor. When we sent the oil to the lab to be tested for its properties, it came back almost like new. The lab said we can easily keep running this oil despite the extreme abuse.
Pictures /videos or it never happened.
 

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After 3-4 years running the pacbrake relocation kit I've started to notice a small leak coming from the top where it mates to the original threads. I haven't seen anything on my driveway so it's gotta be tiny or maybe just under pressure when the engine is running. Anyone seen this on their setup?

Unfortunately I didn't notice until after I changed my oil this weekend, or I'd have taken it out and reseat the whole thing.. maybe I should try and tighten it? I don't really remember how it goes on.
Pics with maybe a screwdriver pointing where its leaking?
 

A-TEAM

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One of the things I noticed about the pacbrake kit vs the other engine block adaptors, is the pacbrake kit uses the hose and 90* fitting to lock the center nut in place. Its basically impossible for the center nut to come loose with the kit installed. On the other kits the center nut is not captured.
 

Rick3478

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One of the things I noticed about the pacbrake kit vs the other engine block adaptors, is the pacbrake kit uses the hose and 90* fitting to lock the center nut in place. Its basically impossible for the center nut to come loose with the kit installed. On the other kits the center nut is not captured.
And conversely, it's also impossible to tighten it. That could be viewed as a problem. :unsure: I guess it makes machining simpler for center and puck, but I think I'd rather have both hose ports on the puck.
 

Insanity

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And conversely, it's also impossible to tighten it. That could be viewed as a problem. :unsure: I guess it makes machining simpler for center and puck, but I think I'd rather have both hose ports on the puck.

I think it would semplafie installation greatly.
 

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