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Rebel leveling kit
- Thread starter wpghemi
- Start date
Big Red Rebel
Active Member
I’m planning on doing the Ready lift 2 inch level, without doing UCA
Is changing the UCA absolutely necessary?
James8563
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I would do it, it’s the right way to level your truck And correct the geometry , and if u decide to go higher in the future with your truck, those control arms will work for higher lifts . Amazon has the kit for $425
Old post, I know.
This post seems like the most informative for the Readylift kit. Can anyone do me a favor and measure the top of their roofline?
I'm worried that mine will hit the garage entrance! I'll be keeping the stock height tires.
My garage door sits at 81.5"
This post seems like the most informative for the Readylift kit. Can anyone do me a favor and measure the top of their roofline?
I'm worried that mine will hit the garage entrance! I'll be keeping the stock height tires.
My garage door sits at 81.5"
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belizondo09
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Does the white rebel also have a 6" lift?
antwon412
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I’ve been reading all these threads for weeks now.
I still can’t really figure out the best way to do a simple one and a half inch lift on the front end! I really don’t want to spend $2500 on some fancy set up just to get a small lift kit but ride quality.
I absolutely refuse to lose any of the ride quality that I have right now. But I sure would like the truck a bit taller.
For the most part it seems like 5100s on setting number 4 would work just fine for me. But then some people say that the right quality suffers.
I still can’t really figure out the best way to do a simple one and a half inch lift on the front end! I really don’t want to spend $2500 on some fancy set up just to get a small lift kit but ride quality.
I absolutely refuse to lose any of the ride quality that I have right now. But I sure would like the truck a bit taller.
For the most part it seems like 5100s on setting number 4 would work just fine for me. But then some people say that the right quality suffers.
Maddog88
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I did not re-aim mine. If anything I think the beam spread is better now.
popcenator
Well-Known Member
I set my Bilsteins at the 5th setting. I lowered mine a little to compensate.
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Waterfowler41
Ram Guru
Sharing my experience with the Motofab kit:
I installed the Motofab DR-2 (2" level) kit a few weeks ago on my 2020 Rebel. Its a tophat style spacer. I kept the stock UCAs as I wasn't sure what my final lift would be. Flash forward to now. I thought I was hearing a clunk up front and decided to pull my drivers wheel off and look into things. Turns out at full droop my UCA rests on the spring and have even caused some of the spring paint to wear off suggesting that the UCA is coming into contact with my spring at some point while driving.
I have been hearing the clunk in rough parking lots and when turning.
Anyways, I checked with a few others running this same set up and its 50/50 as to those having this issue and those not. I think its just luck of the draw with the spring orientation causing the issue. I purchased some Rough Country UCAs yesterday so hoping between that and swapping the struts from side to side will resolve my clearance issues.
The take away here: Double check that at full droop you are not having spring/UCA contact. Our trucks do not have bump stops so its important to ensure you have clearance throughout the whole travel. Even though its only at full droop, a decent speed bump or moderate off-roading will likely extend your strut enough to have that contact. Hit the two together hard enough and there going your ball joint. If you can afford it definitely grab a set of Readylift or Rough Country control arms.
Pics below of truck in full droop showing the contact and truck on flat ground. Circled where at full droop the UCA hits my spring.
I installed the Motofab DR-2 (2" level) kit a few weeks ago on my 2020 Rebel. Its a tophat style spacer. I kept the stock UCAs as I wasn't sure what my final lift would be. Flash forward to now. I thought I was hearing a clunk up front and decided to pull my drivers wheel off and look into things. Turns out at full droop my UCA rests on the spring and have even caused some of the spring paint to wear off suggesting that the UCA is coming into contact with my spring at some point while driving.
I have been hearing the clunk in rough parking lots and when turning.
Anyways, I checked with a few others running this same set up and its 50/50 as to those having this issue and those not. I think its just luck of the draw with the spring orientation causing the issue. I purchased some Rough Country UCAs yesterday so hoping between that and swapping the struts from side to side will resolve my clearance issues.
The take away here: Double check that at full droop you are not having spring/UCA contact. Our trucks do not have bump stops so its important to ensure you have clearance throughout the whole travel. Even though its only at full droop, a decent speed bump or moderate off-roading will likely extend your strut enough to have that contact. Hit the two together hard enough and there going your ball joint. If you can afford it definitely grab a set of Readylift or Rough Country control arms.
Pics below of truck in full droop showing the contact and truck on flat ground. Circled where at full droop the UCA hits my spring.
VaderRebel
Ram Guru
If you haven't or aren't re-aiming your headlights you're all blinding the poor S.O.B's in oncoming traffic... I had to adjust a lot to get back to reasonable height. There's a how-to somewhere here.
Waterfowler41
Ram Guru
Update on my leveling and info gathering. 2020 Ram Rebel with bilstein factory running a Motofab dr-2 kit and Rough Country UCAs.
When you are leveling your Rebel you need to consider the fact that you already have 1" of lift from the factory because you have the ORP springs. Also, remember you have the same exact UCAs as non-Rebel and non-ORP trucks. So when you add a 2" or 2.5" leveling kit to your Rebel, you are effectively lifting the truck to 3-3.5" (1" spring plus the 2" from the spacer) on factory UCAs.
Also consider these truck do not have bump stops like a GM would to stop suspension travel. This means your strut is acting as the bump stop. I am not sure if this applies to all Ram trims but for our Rebels, this is the case. My 2014 GMC had a piece of metal welded under the upper control arm to stop the travel, with bigger lifts you cut this off. Our Rebel's don't.
With top hat style spacers, you are lowering the strut and thereby increasing the travel of the suspension (an increase of 1.25-1.75"). This causes a few potential issues.
Here is the brake line I’m talking about:
Here is an example is UCA/spring:
When you are leveling your Rebel you need to consider the fact that you already have 1" of lift from the factory because you have the ORP springs. Also, remember you have the same exact UCAs as non-Rebel and non-ORP trucks. So when you add a 2" or 2.5" leveling kit to your Rebel, you are effectively lifting the truck to 3-3.5" (1" spring plus the 2" from the spacer) on factory UCAs.
Also consider these truck do not have bump stops like a GM would to stop suspension travel. This means your strut is acting as the bump stop. I am not sure if this applies to all Ram trims but for our Rebels, this is the case. My 2014 GMC had a piece of metal welded under the upper control arm to stop the travel, with bigger lifts you cut this off. Our Rebel's don't.
With top hat style spacers, you are lowering the strut and thereby increasing the travel of the suspension (an increase of 1.25-1.75"). This causes a few potential issues.
- At full droop (with the stock UCA), your UCA will likely hit your spring stopping suspension travel. I see this on half the people running the 2" top hats with factory UCAs. This may put a ton of stress on your ball joint potentially cracking the UCA. Remember our UCAs are polymer and are pretty bulky to increase structural integrity. I believe they are 2" from center of balljoint to inside edge of UCA.
- If your UCA doesn't hit your spring, the next thing it may hit is your hard brake line that passes under the rear of the control arm. I'd rather have my UCA hit my spring then my brake line but this is another issue you may run into.
- Use a coilover or new strut kit like Fox or Bilstein instead of top hat spacers. This should reduce the massive down travel increase of the spacer and give you the lift you want.
- REPLACE your factory UCAs. With our Rebels its not really a " you should consider replacing them" its more of a "you definitely should replace them." While the angles are relatively tame, the contact issues mentioned above can be avoided with different control arms. You also get the benefit of better ball joint angles.
Here is the brake line I’m talking about:
Here is an example is UCA/spring:
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Waterfowler41
Ram Guru
Alright here’s a summary of why we need to strongly consider upgrading UCAs when leveling the Rebel’s.
I ran it for two years before upgrading to a 6” lift. No issues whatsoever.
