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Readylift 3.5" kit on Offroad Package

Shmannion13

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How did you make out getting the preload spacers removed? Guy online has this setup same truck at you and I and he said he hasn’t had a problem with this setup at all even at those crazy looking Angles. He did also state that it just a DD he doesn’t do any rock crawling or anything
 

Douglasmtn

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So I got the 3.5" Ready Lift kit put on my 2019 Laramie last week - I do not have the ORP . The height is exactly what I wanted, but here are a few observations; while I should have ended up with a 0.5" rake, in reality, I didn't and I do not understand why. I started out with 2" pf rake. According to Ready Lift (and as state her before), the 3.5" lift kit raises the front by 3.5" and the rear by 2", thus leaving you with the 0.5" rake. However, after having the truck home now for 4 days and driving it approximately 300 miles here are the final measurements: FL side raised 3.75"; FR side raised 3.25"; RL side raised 1.75"; and RR side raised 1.75". As a result, my truck is no longer level side to side and I now have a negative rake of 0.5" (the rear is lower than the front). Can any one tell me why or how this happens. Also, can anyone give me some ideas on how to fix this as I do like a little bit of rake since I do tow a trailer from time to time. Thanks!
 

wiendog

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Sorry I did not fully read your post about not having the ORP.The added ORP rear spring and spacer raised my loaded bed truck with a shell by 4 inches above the same loaded bed and shell with stock rear springs.I am now considering either to remove the ORP spring and keep the spacer or replace the 2 inch rear spacer with a 1 inch .The rear is too maxed out with the stock non ORP shocks.Any input? Also curious if anyone has input about a rear spacer that mounts above the rear spring like this and the Mopar kit or a spacer that mounts on the bottom of the rear spring.Thanks
 

Jp306

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I wanted to get some more information out as I have done some research on this and there is a lot of confusion on this subject. I purchased a Readylift 3.5" SST lift kit for my 2019 Ram Laramie Sport with off road package. The kit says it fits all Ram 1500's except ones with the air suspension. This may not be the case. I had my already dropped off to the 4WD shop to start the lift when I came across some information on this sight. I was given some good information from another member here that made me hold up the install so I can talk directly to Readylift.
I contacted Readylifts technical service department as soon as they opened. Readylift was very easy to get a hold of, as I talked to them three different times in under an hour. I appreciated the technical support.
I was told that they just recently installed this kit on a customer's truck with the offroad package and that it fit without any issues. They assured me that it should work on the offroad pkg trucks just fine, but then asked me to verify the dimension from the center of the wheel to the wheel well opening. If this distance exceeds 22" then they recommended that I do not install the pre-load spacer into the strut. I measured mine and it was 23.25" (this was after they claimed the truck they had in the shop was only 22"). As a result, I did not have the pre-load spacer installed. All other parts were used.
My truck with the offroad package was taller than I thought it would be and truly has a 1" lift from the factory. I have a few pics that I'll attach for reference of before and after the lift, as well as what the half shaft angle looks. The truck still has the stock tires and wheels, which will not be on after today. Here's a quick recap

* If your truck has more than 22" from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the wheel well opening, DO NOT INSTALL THE PRE-LOAD SPACER. My truck measured 23.25"
* All other components can be used.
* This basically gives you a 2" lift in the front and a 2" lift in the rear. Your rake will still be present
* My truck stance measures (with factory tires). Measurement shown is from ground to the wheel well opening:

Stock Front : 38"
Stock Rear: 40"
Lifted Front: 39.5"-40" Everytime I measure, it seems slightly different ( this is without the preload spacer installed)
Lifted Rear: 41.75"

The truck rides completely like stock and the rake is tolerable to me. I could always put a smaller rear spacer in to level out more.
I was happy with the feedback from Readylift but very disappointed that they do not have this information readily available or listed on their website. I am also disappointed that I purchased a full kit and could not use it. They also are unwilling to credit me anything back for the unused pre-load spacer. Overall, It still is a good kit and the truck looks and rides great. I hope this helps anyone else in the same situation.
Great detailed info, thanks a lot for it all! Did Readylift say WHY it is important to leave it out (too much stretch with that extra exsiting inch, upper control arm angle) or WHAT would happen if you DID install that preload spacer? I take it there are no concerns for the rear as the lift in the rear is less than the front. I just measured my off road package heights last night and found 22.75" front and 25 1/8" rear. Just makes a guy wonder how much difference 3/4" in the front would actually make with this kit.
 

Bee7_ivan

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So from my understanding is that if you buy this 3.5 kit and have a 4x4 you will only get 2.5 inches out of it due to no using the preload spacer?
 

4XPEDITION

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Hi everyone. I am in need of some assistance. I am considering a lift for my 2020 RAM w/o air. I would like to lift my truck about 3-4 inches so the ReadyLift sounds pretty good. What I want is to put 35" tires and 17" wheels on. Sounds like that is too small of a wheel as I haven't seen anyone doing this size. Can someone give me any clarity on that? Also, as the bed of the truck is holding a 1200 lb Overland Explorer Camp X slide-in truck camper, I need to be able to install AirLift bags inside the springs (as we currently are doing with the stock truck). Does this pose any issues? Can this still be done? I am assuming so. This is the truck over the weekend finishing up Shafer Trail in Moab (with the camper on top).
 

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NH_Ram

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guys what is the minimum you need to do to get 35s to fit on the off road package?
I probably have the bare minimum on a factory off road package truck with 35's. Basically a level kit. Just the 1.5" strut extension and Upper Control Arms from the ReadyLift 3.5" SST kit. 35x12.50x20's on 20x9 +1mm Fuel Blitz rims. The rim offset makes a huge difference. Minor adjustment to the mud flaps and no rubbing now.
0606201132_HDR.jpg
 

NH_Ram

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Hi everyone. I am in need of some assistance. I am considering a lift for my 2020 RAM w/o air. I would like to lift my truck about 3-4 inches so the ReadyLift sounds pretty good. What I want is to put 35" tires and 17" wheels on. Sounds like that is too small of a wheel as I haven't seen anyone doing this size. Can someone give me any clarity on that? Also, as the bed of the truck is holding a 1200 lb Overland Explorer Camp X slide-in truck camper, I need to be able to install AirLift bags inside the springs (as we currently are doing with the stock truck). Does this pose any issues? Can this still be done? I am assuming so. This is the truck over the weekend finishing up Shafer Trail in Moab (with the camper on top).
The rear is just a spacer on top of the coil. It may work with airbags but how do the bags mount to the spring perch on top? Just rest against the top or bolt?
I also wonder if 17" rims would even fit over the massive brakes. Maybe go 18's.
 

Mongo228

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Howdy folks! I've been poring over the forums looking for info on level/lift/tires, and there is TONS available. However, pretty much everything I've found is for up to a 2" leveling kit, or a full-on lift. This thread seems to have come closest to what I'm looking for, but would still like some input.

I have a 2019 1500 Big Horn 4x4 with ORG (stock pic attached). Here is what I would like to do:

1. Max Trac 3" Front, 1.5" Rear Level
2. KMC XD778 Monsters 20x9, +18mm offset (pretty much stock)
3. General Grabber A/TX 35x12.50x20

I'll be getting a Hypertec calibrator (I don't want to have to think "Ok, how fast am I going?" ... did that with a lifted 1995 Toyota DX p/u [one of the last off the line before the Tacoma started rolling out]).

Based on what I have found here so far, this *should* work, but, as the saying goes, "the best-laid plans of mice and men oft go awry." So, does anyone here with experience with something similar in the height/rim/tire departments feel like chiming in? I don't want to mess with trimming/mods; I had to do that on my 1998 2500 4x4. This is not going to be a hard-core off-road vehicle; it's going to be doing light-to-medium duty trail running here in AZ.

Thanks in advance!
 

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NH_Ram

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Howdy folks! I've been poring over the forums looking for info on level/lift/tires, and there is TONS available. However, pretty much everything I've found is for up to a 2" leveling kit, or a full-on lift. This thread seems to have come closest to what I'm looking for, but would still like some input.

I have a 2019 1500 Big Horn 4x4 with ORG (stock pic attached). Here is what I would like to do:

1. Max Trac 3" Front, 1.5" Rear Level
2. KMC XD778 Monsters 20x9, +18mm offset (pretty much stock)
3. General Grabber A/TX 35x12.50x20

I'll be getting a Hypertec calibrator (I don't want to have to think "Ok, how fast am I going?" ... did that with a lifted 1995 Toyota DX p/u [one of the last off the line before the Tacoma started rolling out]).

Based on what I have found here so far, this *should* work, but, as the saying goes, "the best-laid plans of mice and men oft go awry." So, does anyone here with experience with something similar in the height/rim/tire departments feel like chiming in? I don't want to mess with trimming/mods; I had to do that on my 1998 2500 4x4. This is not going to be a hard-core off-road vehicle; it's going to be doing light-to-medium duty trail running here in AZ.

Thanks in advance!
Definitely won't have rubbing on the mud flaps with that much lift but will the 12.5" wide tires clear the upper ball joint and knuckle with a +18mm offset rim? I've read a 11.5" wide tire is the max on stock offset rims which is why I went with a +1mm offset rim for my 12.50 All Terrain TA KO2's. Here is a picture of my tire to knuckle clearance with just a 1.5" strut extension and 35x12.50 on 20x9 +1mm rims. Your setup would be nearly 3/4" closer to the upper ball joint.
0606201104a_HDR.jpg

Also, you would basically have 4" of total lift up front which is max you want to do on those front half shafts. Does that lift replace the upper control arms?
 

Mongo228

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Definitely won't have rubbing on the mud flaps with that much lift but will the 12.5" wide tires clear the upper ball joint and knuckle with a +18mm offset rim? I've read a 11.5" wide tire is the max on stock offset rims which is why I went with a +1mm offset rim for my 12.50 All Terrain TA KO2's. Here is a picture of my tire to knuckle clearance with just a 1.5" strut extension and 35x12.50 on 20x9 +1mm rims. Your setup would be nearly 3/4" closer to the upper ball joint.
View attachment 59032

Also, you would basically have 4" of total lift up front which is max you want to do on those front half shafts. Does that lift replace the upper control arms?

NH_Ram, thank you for the info! The Max Trac is basically "pucks" on top of the struts up front and the coils in the rear. I saw another thread (https://5thgenrams.com/community/threads/toyo-r-t-35x12-50x22-2”-level.20290/#post-295461) from Boswurf putting 33x12.50s on stock 22s with just a 2" lift, no rubbing. I'm trying to stay with 20s because I don't want to give up TOO much sidewall, can make for a slightly rougher ride. Not as bouncy as some of the stuff I've done, but I'm not as young as I was. See attached pic. :p

Still, aside from the diameter and probably rolling mass, what would be the difference between 20s and 22s? From what I have dug up on line, the offset for both is +19 (ET19.1mm) on stock rims.

If I had to drop to an 11.50 instead of a 12.50, I could deal with that. I'd rather not have to try to find more rims that I would like. Went through dozens to find those!

PS - That's open air under my right front tire in the pic, and my best friend in the back having fun rocking the truck while balanced on two wheels.
 

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NH_Ram

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NH_Ram, thank you for the info! The Max Trac is basically "pucks" on top of the struts up front and the coils in the rear. I saw another thread (https://5thgenrams.com/community/threads/toyo-r-t-35x12-50x22-2”-level.20290/#post-295461) from Boswurf putting 33x12.50s on stock 22s with just a 2" lift, no rubbing. I'm trying to stay with 20s because I don't want to give up TOO much sidewall, can make for a slightly rougher ride. Not as bouncy as some of the stuff I've done, but I'm not as young as I was. See attached pic. :p

Still, aside from the diameter and probably rolling mass, what would be the difference between 20s and 22s? From what I have dug up on line, the offset for both is +19 (ET19.1mm) on stock rims.

If I had to drop to an 11.50 instead of a 12.50, I could deal with that. I'd rather not have to try to find more rims that I would like. Went through dozens to find those!

PS - That's open air under my right front tire in the pic, and my best friend in the back having fun rocking the truck while balanced on two wheels.
If I remember correctly, the trucks with 22" rims had a different knuckle compared to those with factory 20" rims so that may be the reason he can run 12.50's on stock offset rims. I also wouldn't lift a factory non-off road truck 3" without changing the upper control arms let alone a ORP truck that already has a 1" lift. Your upper ball joints will not last long at that angle.
 

NH_Ram

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If I remember correctly, the trucks with 22" rims had a different knuckle compared to those with factory 20" rims so that may be the reason he can run 12.50's on stock offset rims. I also wouldn't lift a factory non-off road truck 3" without changing the upper control arms let alone a ORP truck that already has a 1" lift. Your upper ball joints will not last long at that angle.
Well according to BDS Suspensions, its the wheel bearing and knuckle bore that's larger on trucks with factory 22" rims so that shouldn't make much difference in space available between tire and knuckle.
 

Mongo228

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Ok, gotcha. For the now, I went with 35x11.50x20 Ridge Grapplers (got a decent price on them). If I have problems with the joints, I will probably go with a full lift system and replace everything, but the budget I have set up won't support that. If they can last a year or two of light use, I'll call it a win.

Thank you for your assistance!! :)
 

NH_Ram

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Ok, gotcha. For the now, I went with 35x11.50x20 Ridge Grapplers (got a decent price on them). If I have problems with the joints, I will probably go with a full lift system and replace everything, but the budget I have set up won't support that. If they can last a year or two of light use, I'll call it a win.

Thank you for your assistance!! :)
I look forward to seeing your results!
 

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