Whiskey_tango
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Inside the bushing and the crush sleeve. Do not grease the outside of the bushing.
10-4. Thank you!
Inside the bushing and the crush sleeve. Do not grease the outside of the bushing.
its now been around 500 miles since the install, i had my tires re-balance to make sure its not that and the ride still feels wierd at 75mph. the car feels bouncy not sure if its because suspension geometery changes or because the aerodynamics of the car have changed and now there is less down force on the front end... Anything under 60mph is fine feels the same but at 75+ its noticeable, especially on concrete sections of highway.
So im still unsure if i will take it off.
I have a roadtrip in a couple of weeks to California, so ill see how she handles when its loaded up with 3 adults, 2 kids and alot of cargo, if that will be smooth enough for long trips, then ill leave it.
What about 2" Fox coilovers?Hey guys, the ball joint angle that everyone should be concerned about is not at ride height. The issue with the ball joint angle is only at full droop. At full droop the angle is much more pronounced. There are two basic methods to achieve lift on the front. Adding a spacer above the strut increases the down travel of the UCAs when at full droop. Effectively the same as adding a longer stut minus increased up travel. Adding a preload spacer within the strut itself does not increase down travel of the UCA since the strut’s max extended length stays the exact same. The up travel is reduced due to the spacer.
If you add a spacer on the top of the strut, do yourself a favor and add UCAs that correct the ball joint angle at full droop. However, if you don’t mind a bit stiffer ride, go with the preload spacer and save some money. A strut compressor will be required if you go this route. Take pictures and compare the ballpoint at full droop. The reason to add UCAs will become clear.