R&D for a plug-n-play Ram specific dashcam wiring kit

[HSKR R/T]

My recommendation is, and has always been, DO NOT USE THESE types of adapters. It is SO EASY to just run a wire to your fuse panel and use a fuse tap.

So what exactly is your issue with this adapter?

 

[securityguy]

So what exactly is your issue with this adapter?

As an EE, I can tell you that these types of devices are designed for lazy DIY folks that want to install a windshield mounted device (radar detectors and dash cams) as painlessly as possible. Sometimes, running wiring in vehicles can be a PITA and most folks don't want to spend the money to have it professionally installed. Our trucks are so simple to run wires in, there is absolutely no excuse not to wire it up the correct way.

What's wrong with these type of devices, or wire taps in general? When a vehicles circuits are designed and sized by the automotive engineers, they are designed to support a certain amount of current. Exceeding that current can cause the wire to heat up over a long period of time and insulation to melt which can result in blown fuses, shorts, and other electrical related issues. The wiring on the mirrors is designed to handle low current. Yes, there may be a buffer that the wiring can support. However, with wiring being so easy to run, why risk using these types of connectors/adapters when for less money, and only about 15 minutes of your time, you can tap into the fuse panel directly with a Micro2 fuse tap and do it right from the start.

This is one of many examples available on Amazon:

Micro2 Blade Fuse Holder Fuse with 10A, 20A Fuse - Tap 12V Car Add-a-Circuit Fuse TAP Adapter with Micro2 Blade Fuse （2 Sets） (Micro2): Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement

Micro2 Blade Fuse Holder Fuse with 10A, 20A Fuse - Tap 12V Car Add-a-Circuit Fuse TAP Adapter with Micro2 Blade Fuse （2 Sets） (Micro2): Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement

www.amazon.com

 

[Canada eh]

These types of installs over the years have never shown any problems. Your choice the way you wish to do it. They are designed for ease of installation no other reason.

 

[HSKR R/T]

As an EE, I can tell you that these types of devices are designed for lazy DIY folks that want to install a windshield mounted device (radar detectors and dash cams) as painlessly as possible. Sometimes, running wiring in vehicles can be a PITA and most folks don't want to spend the money to have it professionally installed. Our trucks are so simple to run wires in, there is absolutely no excuse not to wire it up the correct way.

What's wrong with these type of devices, or wire taps in general? When a vehicles circuits are designed and sized by the automotive engineers, they are designed to support a certain amount of current. Exceeding that current can cause the wire to heat up over a long period of time and insulation to melt which can result in blown fuses, shorts, and other electrical related issues. The wiring on the mirrors is designed to handle low current. Yes, there may be a buffer that the wiring can support. However, with wiring being so easy to run, why risk using these types of connectors/adapters when for less money, and only about 15 minutes of your time, you can tap into the fuse panel directly with a Micro2 fuse tap and do it right from the start.

This is one of many examples available on Amazon:

Micro2 Blade Fuse Holder Fuse with 10A, 20A Fuse - Tap 12V Car Add-a-Circuit Fuse TAP Adapter with Micro2 Blade Fuse （2 Sets） (Micro2): Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement

Micro2 Blade Fuse Holder Fuse with 10A, 20A Fuse - Tap 12V Car Add-a-Circuit Fuse TAP Adapter with Micro2 Blade Fuse （2 Sets） (Micro2): Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement

www.amazon.com

I prefer not to have wires ran all over my truck, no matter how easy you think it is. Anytime you add to the electrical system, no matter how you do it, you risk exceeding the rated load for that circuit. Because, as you said, they are designed to carry a certain amount of load. Without taking the fuse panel apart to verify the wire size used for the circuit you tap into, you don't know what it's load handling capabilities are. And having dealt with designs by engineers for most of my career, what looks good on paper or on your computer screen isn't always the best way to do things when it comes to actually doing the install, and the field techs usually end up having to re-engineer on the fly.

 

[securityguy]

I prefer not to have wires ran all over my truck, no matter how easy you think it is. Anytime you add to the electrical system, no matter how you do it, you risk exceeding the rated load for that circuit. Because, as you said, they are designed to carry a certain amount of load. Without taking the fuse panel apart to verify the wire size used for the circuit you tap into, you don't know what it's load handling capabilities are. And having dealt with designs by engineers for most of my career, what looks good on paper or on your computer screen isn't always the best way to do things when it comes to actually doing the install, and the field techs usually end up having to re-engineer on the fly.

As a follow-up, I have been installing electronics into automobiles since around 1978. I can tell you that no professional installer in his/her right mind would use these adapters or mirror taps. If they do, they are taking a short cut to increase their profit margin. I wouldn't say that running a wire across your headliner, down the A-pillar and right smack into the fuse panel is running wires all over your truck. The gauge of wire at the mirror is far far smaller than the gauge of wire running into the fuse panel. That is a point you are failing to recognize. Do as you wish...I am only sharing my professional opinion and years of experience installing stereo equipment, radar detectors, dash cams, CB and HAM radio equipment, etc. on the topic. Do as you wish...it's not my truck

 

[HSKR R/T]

As a follow-up, I have been installing electronics into automobiles since around 1978. I can tell you that no professional installer in his/her right mind would use these adapters or mirror taps. If they do, they are taking a short cut to increase their profit margin. I wouldn't say that running a wire across your headliner, down the A-pillar and right smack into the fuse panel is running wires all over your truck. The gauge of wire at the mirror is far far smaller than the gauge of wire running into the fuse panel. That is a point you are failing to recognize. Do as you wish...I am only sharing my professional opinion and years of experience installing stereo equipment, radar detectors, dash cams, CB and HAM radio equipment, etc. on the topic. Do as you wish...it's not my truck

You are acting like these dash cams require a large current. The guage of wire in the USB cord you plug them in with is far smaller than anything you would be tapping into on the vehicle.

 

[securityguy]

You are acting like these dash cams require a large current. The guage of wire in the USB cord you plug them in with is far smaller than anything you would be tapping into on the vehicle.

As I stated...do as you wish...your truck. I gave my thoughts and everyone else can decide what they want to do. Frankly, I don't care what you do to your truck without being rude. Others may find this information valuable and heed my advice. I can lead a horse to water, but I can't make him drink

 

[Canada eh]

I prefer not to have wires ran all over my truck, no matter how easy you think it is. Anytime you add to the electrical system, no matter how you do it, you risk exceeding the rated load for that circuit. Because, as you said, they are designed to carry a certain amount of load. Without taking the fuse panel apart to verify the wire size used for the circuit you tap into, you don't know what it's load handling capabilities are. And having dealt with designs by engineers for most of my career, what looks good on paper or on your computer screen isn't always the best way to do things when it comes to actually doing the install, and the field techs usually end up having to re-engineer on the fly.

Nailed it. Not sure why some people feel the need to push. Do what you are comfortable with and with the knowledge and research you have done. I have never seen a problem with this myself.

 

[XoVoX]

As a follow-up, I have been installing electronics into automobiles since around 1978. I can tell you that no professional installer in his/her right mind would use these adapters or mirror taps. If they do, they are taking a short cut to increase their profit margin. I wouldn't say that running a wire across your headliner, down the A-pillar and right smack into the fuse panel is running wires all over your truck. The gauge of wire at the mirror is far far smaller than the gauge of wire running into the fuse panel. That is a point you are failing to recognize. Do as you wish...I am only sharing my professional opinion and years of experience installing stereo equipment, radar detectors, dash cams, CB and HAM radio equipment, etc. on the topic. Do as you wish...it's not my truck

I do find it interesting that you're catching such grief for legitimate electrical advice. As someone who's dealt with both basic 6/12v systems all the way to highly sensitive radiation detection systems I understand exactly where you're coming from.

There may have been people in the field fixing "engineerds" problems for years, as I've had to do in a pinch, but I'd venture to guess those field hands don't actually know the math behind the decision. Ohm's law isn't overly difficult but what vehicle manufacturers aren't known for is over-building capabilities into electrical systems. They are calculated for resistances, distance, voltage, yadda yadda and it's for these reasons why people install LED kits into their sockets and blinkers go nuts or errors pop up.

So, take the advice or leave it but whether you think it sound advice or not it's legitimate. As for myself I'd source a dedicated fused link then maybe get "fancy" with some barrel connectors for easy disconnect options. Run a single wire to the area you need power and determine the voltage requirement of the unit you'll be powering. There you can use many options to reduce the power output to your requirements. If the device is powered by micro USB there are plenty of available options. Dividing and stepping down the main 12v into multiple powered units can be handled there.

Amazon.com: Male and Female Barrel Connector Plug 5.5mm x 2.1mm for CCTV Cameras/Single Color LED Strips Pack of 10 Pairs: Home Improvement
Amazon.com: DC-DC Converter Buck Module,12V to 5V 3A Micro USB Power Converter Step Down Voltage Regulator for Car Smartphone: Home Audio & Theater

Honestly, you'd do better to disassemble the power supply from the unit and insulate it with some heat-shrink and leave it up in the mirror housing. Arguably you would purchase a unit that will run on 12v lol.

Tons of options!

 

[securityguy]

I do find it interesting that you're catching such grief for legitimate electrical advice. As someone who's dealt with both basic 6/12v systems all the way to highly sensitive radiation detection systems I understand exactly where you're coming from.

There may have been people in the field fixing "engineerds" problems for years, as I've had to do in a pinch, but I'd venture to guess those field hands don't actually know the math behind the decision. Ohm's law isn't overly difficult but what vehicle manufacturers aren't known for is over-building capabilities into electrical systems. They are calculated for resistances, distance, voltage, yadda yadda and it's for these reasons why people install LED kits into their sockets and blinkers go nuts or errors pop up.

So, take the advice or leave it but whether you think it sound advice or not it's legitimate. As for myself I'd source a dedicated fused link then maybe get "fancy" with some barrel connectors for easy disconnect options. Run a single wire to the area you need power and determine the voltage requirement of the unit you'll be powering. There you can use many options to reduce the power output to your requirements. If the device is powered by micro USB there are plenty of available options. Dividing and stepping down the main 12v into multiple powered units can be handled there.

Amazon.com: Male and Female Barrel Connector Plug 5.5mm x 2.1mm for CCTV Cameras/Single Color LED Strips Pack of 10 Pairs: Home Improvement
Amazon.com: DC-DC Converter Buck Module,12V to 5V 3A Micro USB Power Converter Step Down Voltage Regulator for Car Smartphone: Home Audio & Theater

Honestly, you'd do better to disassemble the power supply from the unit and insulate it with some heat-shrink and leave it up in the mirror housing. Arguably you would purchase a unit that will run on 12v lol.

Tons of options!

Thanks my friend. I don't tell a doctor how to do my surgery because I'm not a doctor, but folks that don't do wiring or electronic installs for a living, or even understand wire gauge, fuse amperage, and how to properly attach two wires together, are telling me what's ok. I am only trying to help educate folks so they don't make the major mistakes that many on this forum have done which I've pointed out. No ego here...just trying to help folks do things right without any negative ramifications to their vehicles. I will say that I have had well over 20 members reach out via PM that wanted help and guidance which I am happy to provide

 

[HSKR R/T]

Sorry I didnt feel the need to list my resume in order to offer advice. You don't know my background, and I don't need to list it here to somehow try and justify my opinions.

 

[securityguy]

Sorry I didnt feel the need to list my resume in order to offer advice. You don't know my background, and I don't need to list it here to somehow try and justify my opinions.

No reason to be sorry. You have every right to voice your opinion. From what you typed above, you did not offer any advice but an opinion of what you like and don't like to do and why engineers, like me, don't see things "real world" and all that we design have to be reengineered in the field. Clearly you have a trust issue with engineers...totally fine with that and not hurting my feelings. All we are doing is adding fact so that those that want to do this understand the issues at play and can make an educated decision on how they want to proceed...or not. No one asked for your resume and we certainly don't need you to state your background unless you find it pertinent to the conversation.

Sometimes I wonder why it's so hard on this forum to just share valuable information that is proven fact without having someone want to fight over it or make it a far bigger deal that it needs to be. You can ignore posts just as easily as you can respond. If you think a post is incorrect...than challenge it...all challenges are welcome. I didn't hear that what I was saying, or that of @XoVoX was wrong. It just disagreed with your opinion. Make your point for others to consider and move along.

My view of the situation: Here's the data people...you decide if you want to take the advice...your truck...your decision...your money

 

[HSKR R/T]

No reason to be sorry. You have every right to voice your opinion. From what you typed above, you did not offer any advice but an opinion of what you like and don't like to do and why engineers, like me, don't see things "real world" and all that we design have to be reengineered in the field. Clearly you have a trust issue with engineers...totally fine with that and not hurting my feelings. All we are doing is adding fact so that those that want to do this understand the issues at play and can make an educated decision on how they want to proceed...or not. No one asked for your resume and we certainly don't need you to state your background unless you find it pertinent to the conversation.

Sometimes I wonder why it's so hard on this forum to just share valuable information that is proven fact without having someone want to fight over it or make it a far bigger deal that it needs to be. You can ignore posts just as easily as you can respond. If you think a post is incorrect...than challenge it...all challenges are welcome. I didn't hear that what I was saying, or that of @XoVoX was wrong. It just disagreed with your opinion. Make your point for others to consider and move along.

My view of the situation: Here's the data people...you decide if you want to take the advice...your truck...your decision...your money

I did offer facts to counter your responses you just chose to ignore that part. And that's fine. Easier to just keep propping yourself up with your resume.

 

[securityguy]

I did offer facts to counter your responses you just chose to ignore that part. And that's fine. Easier to just keep propping yourself up with your resume.

Please accept my apology for trying help people on the forum. If that is how you see my responses, may GOD help you.

 

[XoVoX]

Good lord, ladies we got our panties in a bunch on this one.

Look @HSKR R/T, you're probably right. Likely there will be little or no issue with the plug kit. But there could be, and I bet the guy making them doesn't warranty your truck if that plug ****s something up. I also understand that most people are not comfortable messing with electronics and electricity. I haven't been on this forum long but I already have seen numerous times @securityguy has offered very valuable electronics advice to other members. I didn't go to school, so I'm a self-taught "engineer" but what I do have is years of experience troubleshooting and repairing those systems.

Lets face it, resumes offer insight into someone's knowledge and skills. I may not be able to design a circuit very well but I can trace it, measure it, and troubleshoot it. I'm not trying to attack anyone but the correct way to handle this install is not to tap into existing electrical systems but instead to create a dedicated option. Additional power draw on a system usually has unsavory outcomes and as mentioned, it's not that hard or time-consuming to run a dedicated power line just for the cameras and radar systems we use.

Good day!

 

[HSKR R/T]

Good lord, ladies we got our panties in a bunch on this one.

Look @HSKR R/T, you're probably right. Likely there will be little or no issue with the plug kit. But there could be, and I bet the guy making them doesn't warranty your truck if that plug ****s something up. I also understand that most people are not comfortable messing with electronics and electricity. I haven't been on this forum long but I already have seen numerous times @securityguy has offered very valuable electronics advice to other members. I didn't go to school, so I'm a self-taught "engineer" but what I do have is years of experience troubleshooting and repairing those systems.

Lets face it, resumes offer insight into someone's knowledge and skills. I may not be able to design a circuit very well but I can trace it, measure it, and troubleshoot it. I'm not trying to attack anyone but the correct way to handle this install is not to tap into existing electrical systems but instead to create a dedicated option. Additional power draw on a system usually has unsavory outcomes and as mentioned, it's not that hard or time-consuming to run a dedicated power line just for the cameras and radar systems we use.

Good day!

The only way to create a dedicated option is to run a fused wired direct off the battery. Tapping power from any other circuit is no different than using the adapter module for rearview mirror

 

[securityguy]

The only way to create a dedicated option is to run a fused wired direct off the battery. Tapping power from any other circuit is no different than using the adapter module for rearview mirror

Not exactly accurate but OK.

 

[Canada eh]

I did offer facts to counter your responses you just chose to ignore that part. And that's fine. Easier to just keep propping yourself up with your resume.

Vindication. He got warned for his attitude towards people's posts. Seems to be an expert on every single post in this group. If you don't agree he uses language to try and make the other person seem of lower intelligence. Not a very positive member of this group. Opinions are welcomed....but pushing personal agendas on others is not. Feel for ya bud. Just ignore jerks like that.

 

[HSKR R/T]

Not exactly accurate but OK.

Entirely accurate. If what you say about using the adapter behind rearview mirror is correct and possibly over taxing the circuit, than tapping into power anywhere else, other than directly off the battery has the same potential for issues. You, personally, do not know the capabilities of the circuit unless you designed it yourself

 

[securityguy]

Entirely accurate. If what you say about using the adapter behind rearview mirror is correct and possibly over taxing the circuit, than tapping into power anywhere else, other than directly off the battery has the same potential for issues. You, personally, do not know the capabilities of the circuit unless you designed it yourself

OK