R&D for a plug-n-play Ram specific dashcam wiring kit

[XoVoX]

Entirely accurate. If what you say about using the adapter behind rearview mirror is correct and possibly over taxing the circuit, than tapping into power anywhere else, other than directly off the battery has the same potential for issues. You, personally, do not know the capabilities of the circuit unless you designed it yourself

I understand the point you're making, but even tapping off an existing fuse connection involved running a different wire, even if it's the same gauge it won't have the potential to overload that existing wiring. You may never put enough load on that fuse connection to pop the fuse unless it shorts, meaning there is plenty of power there, but you could overrun the intended use of the gauge wire thereby causing excessive heat and degradation of the wire or insulation on the wire... which can cause the short, perhaps arcing to the frame and the fuse pops... etc etc.

As I said previously, it's likely not going to actually be an issue. You'll probably never run into that situation but you can't run into it if you run your own wire. Also to your point, using a dedicated power block would probably be the actual solution. Wire a relay in to actuate off the accessory power coming on from a dedicated power line from the battery. 100% see your point. The original intent of @securityguy's comment was, as I understand it, to say don't run electronics off a wire that was designed to power only x things. There's a predetermined amount of draw that wire/fuse/etc is made to do.

Haha, there's no point in fighting over it.

 

[HSKR R/T]

I understand the point you're making, but even tapping off an existing fuse connection involved running a different wire, even if it's the same gauge it won't have the potential to overload that existing wiring. You may never put enough load on that fuse connection to pop the fuse unless it shorts, meaning there is plenty of power there, but you could overrun the intended use of the gauge wire thereby causing excessive heat and degradation of the wire or insulation on the wire... which can cause the short, perhaps arcing to the frame and the fuse pops... etc etc.

As I said previously, it's likely not going to actually be an issue. You'll probably never run into that situation but you can't run into it if you run your own wire. Also to your point, using a dedicated power block would probably be the actual solution. Wire a relay in to actuate off the accessory power coming on from a dedicated power line from the battery. 100% see your point. The original intent of @securityguy's comment was, as I understand it, to say don't run electronics off a wire that was designed to power only x things. There's a predetermined amount of draw that wire/fuse/etc is made to do.

Haha, there's no point in fighting over it.

And as I was saying to counter his point saying you should tap into power at the fuse panel, it has the exact same potential to have excess draw from what the circuit was designed to power, not knowing what the circuit you are tapping into was designed specifically for.

 

[securityguy]

And as I was saying to counter his point saying you should tap into power at the fuse panel, it has the exact same potential to have excess draw from what the circuit was designed to power, not knowing what the circuit you are tapping into was designed specifically for.

We're just going around in circles here and I really don't think anyone cares any longer. The points have been made and folks can decide for themselves what they want to do. If you want to get in one final last word, please feel free to do so

 

[jimchi]

I'm also an EE. The following does not constitute a professional opinion or advice.

Any wiring on a circuit shall be sized for that circuit's maximum safe current draw, and fused accordingly. I wouldn't expect this wiring kit, with what I assume is a small voltage divider IC, to exceed that maximum safe draw with a typical 5V USB powered device. If it did, the as-designed fuse should operate and open the circuit.

The owner's manual does have several warnings against modifying the electrical system. Any aftermarket modifications or additions may affect your ability to be compensated for repair work under the vehicle warranties or reimbursement from your insurance company in the event of a loss (of course, if said modifications are shown to be the cause of the failure or loss).

That being said, I have my dashcam powered via the factory-installed dashboard USB socket.

Again, this post does not constitute a professional opinion or advice.

 

[WiolyWonka]

I'm a total newbie and I took securityguy's advice and tapped into the fusebox. Not as bad as I thought (they're a Youtube video on it too)!