quick oil change plug

[Darksteel165]

Its a pain to get the filter off without a bit of a mess. I used a zip lock bag. Stiil managed to get some oil on the connector harness. I still prefer it to letting someone else do it.

That just means you don't see the oil they left

 

[SD Rebel]

Its a pain to get the filter off without a bit of a mess. I used a zip lock bag. Stiil managed to get some oil on the connector harness. I still prefer it to letting someone else do it.

I would as well, but I just don't trust any CDJR dealership services to do it right. They will probably stick the lowest ranking tech in the shop to do it, and he probably won't do it as well as me.

 

[HSKR R/T]

I would as well, but I just don't trust any CDJR dealership services to do it right. They will probably stick the lowest ranking tech in the shop to do it, and he probably won't do it as well as me.

All dealerships hire guys fresh out of schooling with zero experience, and stick them in the oil/lube bays to start with. so not only do they have no experience other than school, most are disgruntled because they have a fancy diploma and ASE certified but are stuck doing simple oil changes

 

[Darksteel165]

All dealerships hire guys fresh out of schooling with zero experience, and stick them in the oil/lube bays to start with. so not only do they have no experience other than school, most are disgruntled because they have a fancy diploma and ASE certified but are stuck doing simple oil changes

And the terrible pay that comes with it.

 

[HSKR R/T]

And the terrible pay that comes with it.

This too

 

[Dewey]

Even using the ziplock bag method I wouldn't call as "easy" based upon the fact you need extra stuff to do it.
The oil udder with tubing from Home Depot worked perfectly with the original filter (not with the STR) but needing a $30 funnel just for an oil change doesn't mean it's "easy" either imo.

I have an Oil Udder now but for the last 10 years have been using a cut off bottom of a 2-liter soda bottle. It was free and had virtually no mess at all when removing the filter in the current location. I agree the filter location sucks but gotta adapt and figure out what works best. Just dropping the filter and cleaning up the mess was never an option for me.

 

[6of36]

Things may have changed, it's been a lot of years, but when I worked in multiple dealerships, none of them used kids to do oil changes. They were all seasoned mechanics, one doing oil changes over 20 years at the time. He was very content with the money he made and liked his job. I only buy 4wd trucks, and I have no problem changing the oil. A little oil drips, and I wipe it up with a rag. Simple. It's not the best design, but I've had worse vehicles to do oil changes on. They also sell remote filter kits for people it bothers too much.

 

[barrak]

Even with the factory filter, you aren't just going to unscrew it without oil dripping down onto steering rack and other components below the filter, on a 4x4.

Simply put, there's a column of oil which remains trapped above the filter after draining the pan. One should plan accordingly to avoid soiling any components directly beneath the filter housing. Here is a photo of my filter and the steering components directly below it (filter points straight down to ground).

 

[BowDown]

Simply put, there's a column of oil which remains trapped above the filter after draining the pan. One should plan accordingly to avoid soiling any components directly beneath the filter housing. Here is a photo of my filter and the steering components directly below it (filter points straight down to ground).

View attachment 161139

Same here, every oil change but others can't do it so obviously you're wrong

 

[Ramitinhard]

Awesome!

But agree, I would keep a good eye on that valve, because the RAM doesn't have a low oil light, just a low oil pressure warning, which could be too late should that valve get damaged and it starts leaking.

Always thought it weird these engines don't come with a low oil level warning. I have an old 2004 Crossfire, which is just a rebodied Mercedes R170 series, but it's 3.2L V6 has a 8.5 quart capacity, but has a sensor that shows in the gauges several different oil level parameters (Level OK, 1 quart over, 1 quart low, and 2 quarts low) at which time it will issue you a warning about the level.

With my vastly newer RAM, it's back to basics where you should check your oil level regularly by hand, which is good practice I suppose. I just wished it had a basic warning for 1 quart low like many cars do.

Nice. I had a 2005 Crossfire SRT6 for many years. Even met Eric Stoddard the cars designer at Woodward one year. Invited us to his house for a BBQ.

 

[SD Rebel]

Nice. I had a 2005 Crossfire SRT6 for many years. Even met Eric Stoddard the cars designer at Woodward one year. Invited us to his house for a BBQ.

I would love to get my hands on an SRT6, but I really wanted a manual so I get the regular one. Great car, fit's my fat 6'2" frame really well, though it makes sense since the donor car was designed around taller German folks.

Awesome meeting the designer, I wasn't a fan when the car came out, but absolutely love it now. Mine is lowered about 1" with Eibach pro springs and has Mercedes wheels in the stock staggered 18/19" wheels size. I honestly get a ton of compliments from this car, mostly from people who have no idea what it is.

 

[Ramitinhard]

I would love to get my hands on an SRT6, but I really wanted a manual so I get the regular one. Great car, fit's my fat 6'2" frame really well, though it makes sense since the donor car was designed around taller German folks.

Awesome meeting the designer, I wasn't a fan when the car came out, but absolutely love it now. Mine is lowered about 1" with Eibach pro springs and has Mercedes wheels in the stock staggered 18/19" wheels size. I honestly get a ton of compliments from this car, mostly from people who have no idea what it is.

The design was a love it or hate it. I loved it, always did and still do. I had it dyno tuned after a handful of mods including a smaller supercharger pulley, threw drag radials on it and would do high 11s all day long at the drag strip. Fastest car I ever owned.

 

[spyder]

Booyaka, Booyaka. Some people maybe attempting something they're not really qualified to do.

Also, on the RB Challenger, love a big block E body; my dream car along with a 68-70 Charger.
Had a 73 318 Charger that I did the same thing to

The old Challenger is a long time project. Bought it 20 years ago and tinkered now and then, about a year and a half ago I finally got motivated (and in a good enough spot financially) to finish her up. Both quarters replaced, rear frame rails, and full paint and body, black leather wrapped steering wheel and dash, white seats and headliner, and wrapping up a few lingering gremlins of the big 440. It's a whole lot of fun. And I think I'm in to it just as much as the impossible to change oil in Rebel.

I didn't say it was "hard", but you aren't going to just spin the filter off without getting oil all over your steering rack, to include the electrical for it. At least not without other steps. Especially if you care about your vehicle and aren't using the tiny factory filter. Ziplock bag trick doesn't work with the larger filters. I just let it drop, then spray everything off with parts cleaner.

As far as your bud light comment. (moderator hat on) I suggest leaving personal attacks out of any future posts.

Spraying that parts cleaner on electrical connections is a whole lot worse than just holding them out of the way with one hand while using the other hand to remove the filter.



This thread makes me wonder what some of you guys do when there's a real job to be done. Oil changes are about the simplest maintenance item there is to do on most vehicles. What would you do if you had an old Mopar with the filter turned 90 degrees? Are the brakes a terrible design because they get brake dust on the wheels? Wheel bearings are worthless because you can't pack them without getting grease on stuff? This amuses me.

 

[HSKR R/T]

The old Challenger is a long time project. Bought it 20 years ago and tinkered now and then, about a year and a half ago I finally got motivated (and in a good enough spot financially) to finish her up. Both quarters replaced, rear frame rails, and full paint and body, black leather wrapped steering wheel and dash, white seats and headliner, and wrapping up a few lingering gremlins of the big 440. It's a whole lot of fun. And I think I'm in to it just as much as the impossible to change oil in Rebel.

Spraying that parts cleaner on electrical connections is a whole lot worse than just holding them out of the way with one hand while using the other hand to remove the filter.



This thread makes me wonder what some of you guys do when there's a real job to be done. Oil changes are about the simplest maintenance item there is to do on most vehicles. What would you do if you had an old Mopar with the filter turned 90 degrees? Are the brakes a terrible design because they get brake dust on the wheels? Wheel bearings are worthless because you can't pack them without getting grease on stuff? This amuses me.

As far as the wheel bearings, modern wheel bearings are sealed bearings, so if you are trying to pack them, you need to set the grease gun down and just walk away.

As far as doing "real jobs", many here do, but that doesn't mean we don't understand the issues with the location of the oil filter on these 4x4 trucks to know is not a good location.

I'm currently building a 410 stroker for my Dakota R/T. Taking it slow cause I'm not trying to go in debt doing it. This is just a mock up to show off the long tube headers going on it.

 

[BowDown]

The old Challenger is a long time project. Bought it 20 years ago and tinkered now and then, about a year and a half ago I finally got motivated (and in a good enough spot financially) to finish her up. Both quarters replaced, rear frame rails, and full paint and body, black leather wrapped steering wheel and dash, white seats and headliner, and wrapping up a few lingering gremlins of the big 440. It's a whole lot of fun. And I think I'm in to it just as much as the impossible to change oil in Rebel.

Spraying that parts cleaner on electrical connections is a whole lot worse than just holding them out of the way with one hand while using the other hand to remove the filter.



This thread makes me wonder what some of you guys do when there's a real job to be done. Oil changes are about the simplest maintenance item there is to do on most vehicles. What would you do if you had an old Mopar with the filter turned 90 degrees? Are the brakes a terrible design because they get brake dust on the wheels? Wheel bearings are worthless because you can't pack them without getting grease on stuff? This amuses me.

I feel your pain. I had my Charger since 86, it was my mom's car bought new.
I replaced the 318 with a RHS (Racing Head Service for those that remember when RHS built engines) 360 Magnum when I was 17.
That process was poor decision making and bad advice at the time. I should have went with an RHS 440 from the beginning but I was told that the k members were different on the big block cars versus a small block cars and you couldn't install a big block without switching the k member. Obviously that was false information because I later did it

Needles to say , I was not financially in a position to restore or even do much of that car so it's sat for a long time.

A few years down the road I picked up a 440 and rebuilt it and bought a B727 and also a 489 casting 8 and 3/4 rear end.
I got that all installed in the car and start at the process of body work and restoring the interior which wasn't bad, just had a crack dash and it needed a headliner.

Old mopar's are extremely expensive to own, especially B and E bodies from 68 to 72-73. They are so damn expensive that I sold my charger a few years ago after I moved on to a ZO6. It was just too expensive to restore that car correctly Plus I really wanted a 68 to 70 Charger or a 70 - E -body.

If I had or when I get a FU money, I'd like a Steveq Strope built B or E body or ring brothers b or e-body


Completely agree on your second paragraph, I read some of the comments and I just shake my head wonder how people function.

 

[spyder]

I feel your pain. I had my Charger since 86, it was my mom's car bought new.
I replaced the 318 with a RHS (Racing Head Service for those that remember when RHS built engines) 360 Magnum when I was 17.
That process was poor decision making and bad advice at the time. I should have went with an RHS 440 from the beginning but I was told that the k members were different on the big block cars versus a small block cars and you couldn't install a big block without switching the k member. Obviously that was false information because I later did it

Needles to say , I was not financially in a position to restore or even do much of that car so it's sat for a long time.

A few years down the road I picked up a 440 and rebuilt it and bought a B727 and also a 489 casting 8 and 3/4 rear end.
I got that all installed in the car and start at the process of body work and restoring the interior which wasn't bad, just had a crack dash and it needed a headliner.

Old mopar's are extremely expensive to own, especially B and E bodies from 68 to 72-73. They are so damn expensive that I sold my charger a few years ago after I moved on to a ZO6. It was just too expensive to restore that car correctly Plus I really wanted a 68 to 70 Charger or a 70 - E -body.

As far as the wheel bearings, modern wheel bearings are sealed bearings, so if you are trying to pack them, you need to set the grease gun down and just walk away.

As far as doing "real jobs", many here do, but that doesn't mean we don't understand the issues with the location of the oil filter on these 4x4 trucks to know is not a good location.

I'm currently building a 410 stroker for my Dakota R/T. Taking it slow cause I'm not trying to go in debt doing it. This is just a mock up to show off the long tube headers going on it. View attachment 161168

Awesome. That'll be a damn fine project when you get it on the road!
A couple of shots of mine over the last 18 months or so. I really need to clean it up and do a photoshoot one of these days, with a better camera than my 6 year old Samsung. The ridiculous obnoxiousness of the Sublime doesn't show up nearly as well as it should in photos. Electronic cutouts, of course, for when it needs to be super obnoxious.

 

[BowDown]

Awesome. That'll be a damn fine project when you get it on the road!
A couple of shots of mine over the last 18 months or so. I really need to clean it up and do a photoshoot one of these days, with a better camera than my 6 year old Samsung. The ridiculous obnoxiousness of the Sublime doesn't show up nearly as well as it should in photos. Electronic cutouts, of course, for when it needs to be super obnoxious.

View attachment 161170 View attachment 161172 View attachment 161173 View attachment 161177

Damn that's A lot of work but it looks like it turned out great

 

[barrak]

Same here, every oil change but others can't do it so obviously you're wrong

Now that I saw first-hand how much trapped oil was collected in the ziploc bag (about 2 ounces), and realize I could bring to ground the factory-size filter without spilling its contents, I feel much more confident in following your "spin off with a towel" suggestion. Seeing is believing.

Wish I'd learned the ziploc approach years ago for my 3.6R Subaru and its 90-degree filter. Oh well... it's my college kid's problem now.

 

[BowDown]

Now that I saw first-hand how much trapped oil was collected in the ziploc bag (about 2 ounces), and realize I could bring to ground the factory-size filter without spilling its contents, I feel much more confident in following your "spin off with a towel" suggestion. Seeing is believing.

Wish I'd learned the ziploc approach years ago for my 3.6R Subaru and its 90-degree filter. Oh well... it's my college kid's problem now.

That's how I've always done it and with no issues. Don't tilt the filter and it's cake.

 

[6of36]

As far as the wheel bearings, modern wheel bearings are sealed bearings, so if you are trying to pack them, you need to set the grease gun down and just walk away.

As far as doing "real jobs", many here do, but that doesn't mean we don't understand the issues with the location of the oil filter on these 4x4 trucks to know is not a good location.

I'm currently building a 410 stroker for my Dakota R/T. Taking it slow cause I'm not trying to go in debt doing it. This is just a mock up to show off the long tube headers going on it. View attachment 161168

You are a staff member, add us a thread for Mopar projects we own. I have a 73, stalled project, until I get all missing parts. But this is a different thread.