quick oil change plug

[mtjag]

Just want to know which is the better quick oil change plug for the 5.7, the EZ-106 or the Fumoto F106N?

 

[HSKR R/T]

F106SX so you can direct it away from sway bar. Then buy the hose kit for it

HOSE KIT FOR 3/8" ID NIPPLE FUMOTO VALVES https://a.co/d/8zLLfVO

 

[Darksteel165]

My first oil change was spotless.

My second oil change last month was a god damn disaster.
I managed to get a funnel where the oil drain was, but the funnel was as a weird angle so I made 2 differnet oil streams, further apart then my 16 qt oil pan would reach.

Is this the correct one?

https://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F106SX-M14-1-5-Drain-Valve/dp/B0BR4PQNTC

Just need to figure out what I can do about the oil filter next time.
The SRT filters are too big for the oil utters even with the XL

 

[SD Rebel]

I just did another oil change on my truck, and it's literally next to no mess with the standard drain plug. No funnel or aftermarket valve needed.

Just leave your oil cap on tight, along with the dipstick, even with hot oil, it will come out in a nice easy controlled stream. Near the end, it will hit the sway bar, but barely make any splash, a quick wipe with a old rag and it's nice and clean. As the oil drips straight down, go ahead an loosen your oil fill cap and pull the dipstick up a bit to help finish the drain.

 

[barrak]

I just did another oil change on my truck, and it's literally next to no mess with the standard drain plug. No funnel or aftermarket valve needed.

Just leave your oil cap on tight, along with the dipstick, even with hot oil, it will come out in a nice easy controlled stream. Near the end, it will hit the sway bar, but barely make any splash, a quick wipe with a old rag and it's nice and clean. As the oil drips straight down, go ahead an loosen your oil fill cap and pull the dipstick up a bit to help finish the drain.

I don't see what all the fuss about "the sway bar in the way" refrain. A quick wipe and brake cleaner spray should take care of it in like 15 seconds, as you said.

Now, if you have skid plates, and especially something like the Skeerdy Cat transmission/catalytic shield, then something like a Fumoto with a hose attachment would be worth it. That's what I plan to do tomorrow with my first oil change (at 2,500 miles), followed by the Skeerdy shield install.

It's the darn oil filter I need to experiment with. Hopefully, the one-two ziploc bags trick would work well. I do have a Qwork funnel with a 24" flexible steel tube that I'll test first for clearance and ease of use.

 

[SD Rebel]

I don't see what all the fuss about "the sway bar in the way" refrain. A quick wipe and brake cleaner spray should take care of it in like 15 seconds, as you said.

Now, if you have skid plates, and especially something like the Skeerdy Cat transmission/catalytic shield, then something like a Fumoto with a hose attachment would be worth it. That's what I plan to do tomorrow with my first oil change (at 2,500 miles), followed by the Skeerdy shield install.

It's the darn oil filter I need to experiment with. Hopefully, the one-two ziploc bags trick would work well. I do have a Qwork funnel with a 24" flexible steel tube that I'll test first for clearance and ease of use.

That definitely makes sense for those applications.

As for the two zip lock bag method, it works great, the half or 1 gallon size zip lock is ideal. Position a small pan next to you to deposit the bags as you remove them. After you break loose the filter, turn about 1/2 turn. Slip on the first bag, make sure to slide on the bag all the way until the bottom of the bag is touching the bottom of the filter. Then keep unscrewing until you see oil coming out. Wait about 20 seconds, then slip off that first bag.

Slip on the second bag, again push all the way up until the bottom of the bag is touching the bottom of the filter. Complete the removal of the filter, as the filter drops, hold the bag as oil will come out of the mount for about 5 seconds or so after the filter drops, then slip off the 2nd bag and put into your waiting pan.

Super easy and clean, done it 4 times already, cleaner oil change than even my old Lexus.

 

[HSKR R/T]

I don't see what all the fuss about "the sway bar in the way" refrain. A quick wipe and brake cleaner spray should take care of it in like 15 seconds, as you said.

Now, if you have skid plates, and especially something like the Skeerdy Cat transmission/catalytic shield, then something like a Fumoto with a hose attachment would be worth it. That's what I plan to do tomorrow with my first oil change (at 2,500 miles), followed by the Skeerdy shield install.

It's the darn oil filter I need to experiment with. Hopefully, the one-two ziploc bags trick would work well. I do have a Qwork funnel with a 24" flexible steel tube that I'll test first for clearance and ease of use.

I mean, sway bar or not, it's nice to just turn a valve to drain the fluid as opposed to unscrewing the drain plug and dropping it in hot oil, potentially rolling into the hole in drain pan and plugging that so the oil doesn't go into the pan. Then you have to reach into hot engine out to retrieve the plug before the oil spills over the side.

 

[Darksteel165]

Just leave your oil cap on tight, along with the dipstick, even with hot oil, it will come out in a nice easy controlled stream. Near the end, it will hit the sway bar, but barely make any splash, a quick wipe with a old rag and it's nice and clean. As the oil drips straight down, go ahead an loosen your oil fill cap and pull the dipstick up a bit to help finish the drain.

Depends on how level your driveway is. It hits the bar and splits 2 differnet directions for me. enough that I can only get 1 stream in my 16 qt oil pan.
I don't have a lift and I don't jack up my truck so it's not like I can just quickly move if oil starts going weird directions.

I don't see what all the fuss about "the sway bar in the way" refrain. A quick wipe and brake cleaner spray should take care of it in like 15 seconds, as you said.

It's the darn oil filter I need to experiment with. Hopefully, the one-two ziploc bags trick would work well. I do have a Qwork funnel with a 24" flexible steel tube that I'll test first for clearance and ease of use.

It's not the problem of the oil on the bar, its where it goes from the bar. See above ^

As for the oil filter, are you using the regular filter or the SRT?
If it's the regular you can use an oil udder XL and some plastic tubing from Home Depot to unscrew it and let it drain into your pan no baggies needed

I mean, sway bar or not, it's nice to just turn a valve to drain the fluid as opposed to unscrewing the drain plug and dropping it in hot oil, potentially rolling into the hole in drain pan and plugging that so the oil doesn't go into the pan. Then you have to reach into hot engine out to retrieve the plug before the oil spills over the side.

I have never dropped the drain plug into oil. How do you do that? Let go of the plug while you are unscrewing it by hand after breaking it free with a ratchet or wrench of some kind? (I use an M12 ratchet with a flex head socket holder to loosen it first). Just push the plug in while you unscrew it and when it gets close every half spin try to pull it out until it goes and poof, no oil on anything.

 

[HSKR R/T]

Depends on how level your driveway is. It hits the bar and splits 2 differnet directions for me. enough that I can only get 1 stream in my 16 qt oil pan.
I don't have a lift and I don't jack up my truck so it's not like I can just quickly move if oil starts going weird directions.

It's not the problem of the oil on the bar, its where it goes from the bar. See above ^

As for the oil filter, are you using the regular filter or the SRT?
If it's the regular you can use an oil udder XL and some plastic tubing from Home Depot to unscrew it and let it drain into your pan no baggies needed

I have never dropped the drain plug into oil. How do you do that? Let go of the plug while you are unscrewing it by hand after breaking it free with a ratchet or wrench of some kind? (I use an M12 ratchet with a flex head socket holder to loosen it first). Just push the plug in while you unscrew it and when it gets close every half spin try to pull it out until it goes and poof, no oil on anything.

You haven't changed your oil on a hot engine enough if you haven't dropped the plug at least once

 

[Darksteel165]

You haven't changed your oil on a hot engine enough if you haven't dropped the plug at least once

Yes I have. I don't put my hand or arm I the way of the oil. You should bring the plug up and away when you remove it not down.
I do use plastic gloves, but that doesn't prevent heat from hurting a ton.

It was a legit question about dropping the plug into the oil tray, I wasn't trolling.

 

[jl13]

I don't see what all the fuss about "the sway bar in the way" refrain. A quick wipe and brake cleaner spray should take care of it in like 15 seconds, as you said.

Now, if you have skid plates, and especially something like the Skeerdy Cat transmission/catalytic shield, then something like a Fumoto with a hose attachment would be worth it. That's what I plan to do tomorrow with my first oil change (at 2,500 miles), followed by the Skeerdy shield install.

It's the darn oil filter I need to experiment with. Hopefully, the one-two ziploc bags trick would work well. I do have a Qwork funnel with a 24" flexible steel tube that I'll test first for clearance and ease of use.

Yea this works perfectly

 

[BowDown]

I just did another oil change on my truck, and it's literally next to no mess with the standard drain plug. No funnel or aftermarket valve needed.

Just leave your oil cap on tight, along with the dipstick, even with hot oil, it will come out in a nice easy controlled stream. Near the end, it will hit the sway bar, but barely make any splash, a quick wipe with a old rag and it's nice and clean. As the oil drips straight down, go ahead an loosen your oil fill cap and pull the dipstick up a bit to help finish the drain.

I don't see what all the fuss about "the sway bar in the way" refrain. A quick wipe and brake cleaner spray should take care of it in like 15 seconds, as you said.

Now, if you have skid plates, and especially something like the Skeerdy Cat transmission/catalytic shield, then something like a Fumoto with a hose attachment would be worth it. That's what I plan to do tomorrow with my first oil change (at 2,500 miles), followed by the Skeerdy shield install.

It's the darn oil filter I need to experiment with. Hopefully, the one-two ziploc bags trick would work well. I do have a Qwork funnel with a 24" flexible steel tube that I'll test first for clearance and ease of use.

I don't either, 2 years of oil changes and no mess and certainly not one that warranted spending money.
I don't even do the Ziplock trick, I loosen the filter then spin it off with a towel and drop in in the oil catch can. Wipe the mounting surface off, screw on the new filter, done. Throw the old filter in a plastic grocery bag then into the oil filter box then into another plastic grocery bad and leave at Autozone

 

[Darksteel165]

I don't either, 2 years of oil changes and no mess and certainly not one that warranted spending money.
I don't even do the Ziplock trick, I loosen the filter then spin it off with a towel and drop in in the oil catch can. Wipe the mounting surface off, screw on the new filter, done. Throw the old filter in a plastic grocery bag then into the oil filter box then into another plastic grocery bad and leave at Autozone

How do you "I loosen the filter then spin it off with a towel and drop in in the oil catch can"
It can't even fall down without you forcing it down between wires and other devices.

Do you even have the same truck as us???

Edit: Looks like you only have 2wd. I BELIEVE it's way differnet up front where the oil filter is if you have 4wd. For us with 4wd it's more "complicated".

 

[barrak]

That definitely makes sense for those applications.

As for the two zip lock bag method, it works great, the half or 1 gallon size zip lock is ideal. Position a small pan next to you to deposit the bags as you remove them. After you break loose the filter, turn about 1/2 turn. Slip on the first bag, make sure to slide on the bag all the way until the bottom of the bag is touching the bottom of the filter. Then keep unscrewing until you see oil coming out. Wait about 20 seconds, then slip off that first bag.

Slip on the second bag, again push all the way up until the bottom of the bag is touching the bottom of the filter. Complete the removal of the filter, as the filter drops, hold the bag as oil will come out of the mount for about 5 seconds or so after the filter drops, then slip off the 2nd bag and put into your waiting pan.

Super easy and clean, done it 4 times already, cleaner oil change than even my old Lexus.

Just changed oil/filter and it was easier than I expected. Used a single 1-gallon ziploc bag (had another handy but didn't need it). Had to mangle the factory installed filter a bit to get it loose, even after idling the truck for a few minutes.

There was enough clearance rearward to the axle (4x4 5.7L) to move new filter in position without spilling oil pre-fill. I used Mobil1 M1-113A oil filter and Valvoline Advanced 0W-20 Full Synthetic.

Drained the oil and installed a Fumoto valve with the Skeerdy Cat plate in place. Made a bit of a mess, but the cleanup was easy. For future oil changes, of course, I'll be using a clear tubing from the Fumoto to the collection pan.

My only concern now is the just under 1/2" clearance between sway bar and Fumoto valve. I'll keep an eye on it for a few days.

 

[SD Rebel]

Just changed oil/filter and it was easier than I expected. Used a single 1-gallon ziploc bag (had another handy but didn't need it). Had to mangle the factory installed filter a bit to get it loose, even after idling the truck for a few minutes.

There was enough clearance rearward to the axle (4x4 5.7L) to move new filter in position without spilling oil pre-fill. I used Mobil1 M1-113A oil filter and Valvoline Advanced 0W-20 Full Synthetic.

Drained the oil and installed a Fumoto valve with the Skeerdy Cat plate in place. Made a bit of a mess, but the cleanup was easy. For future oil changes, of course, I'll be using a clear tubing from the Fumoto to the collection pan.

My only concern now is the just under 1/2" clearance between sway bar and Fumoto valve. I'll keep an eye on it for a few days.

Awesome!

But agree, I would keep a good eye on that valve, because the RAM doesn't have a low oil light, just a low oil pressure warning, which could be too late should that valve get damaged and it starts leaking.

Always thought it weird these engines don't come with a low oil level warning. I have an old 2004 Crossfire, which is just a rebodied Mercedes R170 series, but it's 3.2L V6 has a 8.5 quart capacity, but has a sensor that shows in the gauges several different oil level parameters (Level OK, 1 quart over, 1 quart low, and 2 quarts low) at which time it will issue you a warning about the level.

With my vastly newer RAM, it's back to basics where you should check your oil level regularly by hand, which is good practice I suppose. I just wished it had a basic warning for 1 quart low like many cars do.

 

[jl13]

Just changed oil/filter and it was easier than I expected. Used a single 1-gallon ziploc bag (had another handy but didn't need it). Had to mangle the factory installed filter a bit to get it loose, even after idling the truck for a few minutes.

There was enough clearance rearward to the axle (4x4 5.7L) to move new filter in position without spilling oil pre-fill. I used Mobil1 M1-113A oil filter and Valvoline Advanced 0W-20 Full Synthetic.

Drained the oil and installed a Fumoto valve with the Skeerdy Cat plate in place. Made a bit of a mess, but the cleanup was easy. For future oil changes, of course, I'll be using a clear tubing from the Fumoto to the collection pan.

My only concern now is the just under 1/2" clearance between sway bar and Fumoto valve. I'll keep an eye on it for a few days.

I have check mine a few times now. Going into 6th month since the install. All good so far

 

[HSKR R/T]

Just changed oil/filter and it was easier than I expected. Used a single 1-gallon ziploc bag (had another handy but didn't need it). Had to mangle the factory installed filter a bit to get it loose, even after idling the truck for a few minutes.

There was enough clearance rearward to the axle (4x4 5.7L) to move new filter in position without spilling oil pre-fill. I used Mobil1 M1-113A oil filter and Valvoline Advanced 0W-20 Full Synthetic.

Drained the oil and installed a Fumoto valve with the Skeerdy Cat plate in place. Made a bit of a mess, but the cleanup was easy. For future oil changes, of course, I'll be using a clear tubing from the Fumoto to the collection pan.

My only concern now is the just under 1/2" clearance between sway bar and Fumoto valve. I'll keep an eye on it for a few days.

Your sway bar shouldn't move that much

 

[6of36]

Just changed oil/filter and it was easier than I expected. Used a single 1-gallon ziploc bag (had another handy but didn't need it). Had to mangle the factory installed filter a bit to get it loose, even after idling the truck for a few minutes.

There was enough clearance rearward to the axle (4x4 5.7L) to move new filter in position without spilling oil pre-fill. I used Mobil1 M1-113A oil filter and Valvoline Advanced 0W-20 Full Synthetic.

Drained the oil and installed a Fumoto valve with the Skeerdy Cat plate in place. Made a bit of a mess, but the cleanup was easy. For future oil changes, of course, I'll be using a clear tubing from the Fumoto to the collection pan.

My only concern now is the just under 1/2" clearance between sway bar and Fumoto valve. I'll keep an eye on it for a few days.

Back in prehistoric times, when I was a Chrysler dealer mechanic, The lube guy had a factory over tightened filter once. It took him about 3 hours to do an oil change. He used multiple filter wrenches, to no avail. He then tried large channel locks. They just mangled the filter. He drove a large screwdriver all the way through the filter, to try to twist it. It just ripped the filter can, but didn't budge. He ended up having to cut the entire can off, and then use a hammer and chisel, to turn the base, by inserting the chisel in the holes in the base, and beating it until it broke free.

 

[barrak]

Back in prehistoric times, when I was a Chrysler dealer mechanic, The lube guy had a factory over tightened filter once. It took him about 3 hours to do an oil change. He used multiple filter wrenches, to no avail. He then tried large channel locks. They just mangled the filter. He drove a large screwdriver all the way through the filter, to try to twist it. It just ripped the filter can, but didn't budge. He ended up having to cut the entire can off, and then use a hammer and chisel, to turn the base, by inserting the chisel in the holes in the base, and beating it until it broke free.

I was lucky then. Being cautious, I actually made sure the filter started loosening before I touched the drain plug.

I did face a much tougher battle with one of my Subaru's wheel bearing assemblies. After 8 years of back and forth along my muddy and potholed long driveway, the assembly was crazy rust-fused to the knuckle/spindle. Tried a big hammer for days... an 8-lb splitting maul. Tried a slide hammer... that was pathetic. Tried the Astro Last Chance bolts... they did succeed in separating the hub part, leaving the race in place, and really stranding the vehicle. Finally, it took 20 minutes of air hammering with a Chicago Pneumatic CP717 powered by a 60-gallon compressor to take it out.

 

[Mountain Whiskey]

I don't either, 2 years of oil changes and no mess and certainly not one that warranted spending money.
I don't even do the Ziplock trick, I loosen the filter then spin it off with a towel and drop in in the oil catch can. Wipe the mounting surface off, screw on the new filter, done. Throw the old filter in a plastic grocery bag then into the oil filter box then into another plastic grocery bad and leave at Autozone

You're killing me! Teasing us with tales of easy oil changes in half trucks. You know you don't have the parts to struggle around that complete trucks have.