Practical upgrades

[User_26887]

Greetings,

Been scouring threads and seeing all sorts of great info and was looking to run some thoughts by the group on upgrades to my stock Big Horn.

Here’s the baseline:

2019 4x4 DT, 5.7 w/o e-torque, max tow (3.92), no off-road package. 55K miles on the odometer.

Daily driver over pretty nasty pavement (45 mph), mainly short commutes with a few 600-1,000 trips per year.

I hunt, haul 1-1.5K ish, tow (2-8K lb trailer weight) a few times annually, and live in an area with snowy winters. No gooseneck/5th wheel.

No rock climbing, mainly trails and fields to prep hunting areas/food plots in the off season. Currently running new 275/65/18 Cooper AT3 LTs.

Existing mods:
- Added factory tailgate dampener
- Class V receiver with adjustable hitch
- Soft bed cover
- Spray in bed liner
- Running boards
- Full size factory spare (mounted on matching take-off and rotated) hung under bed.
- Added skid plates and tow hooks
- Suspensionmaxx front sway bar end links

Planned mods to improve performance and capabilities within previously mentioned parameters and maintain a decent but more truck like ride.
- Hellwig rear sway bar and Moog end links inbound
- Bistien 6112s coilovers in front set at #7
- Factory 2.0” lift UCAs
- Bilstien 5100s in rear
- Rear 1” ORP springs to preserve some rake
- Detroit true track diffs in front and rear
- Next set of tires will be Cooper AT3 XLTs in 33 or 35s once I wear these out.

Am I missing anything or is any of the above not worth it for what I do? My plan is to do the upgrades as these components wear out or fail.

I’m wondering if I need any brackets or extended sway bar links when I do the suspension upgrades.

The Trutracks in my LJ with 4.88s were phenomenal and I miss them.

 

[kdoublep]

Maybe a partridge in a pear tree?

 

[User_26887]

Maybe.

 

[User_26887]

Replaced the rear shocks with 5100s. Sounds/feels/acts like the front struts are shot.

Original rear shocks were completely worn out.

Planning on ordering pre-assembled 6112s (at #7 for 2.2” lift) and a few individual MOPAR 2” lift components.

Here’s what I pan on ordering from the 2” kit:
- 2” lift UCAs
- 2x front brake line clips
- 2x tie rod end nuts
- 2x UCA nuts
- Track bar relocation bracket
- Tack bar brake line relocation bracket
- Track bar relocation hardware

These will be accompanied by Bilstien rear 1-1.5” rear coil springs.

Is there anything I can drop from this list?

I don’t plan on ordering the bump stop brackets because I’m running HD Timbrens in the rear.

I also get to take it in for warranty work on the leaking rear window.

 

[mplaramie]

Replaced the rear shocks with 5100s. Sounds/feels/acts like the front struts are shot.

Original rear shocks were completely worn out.

Planning on ordering pre-assembled 6112s (at #7 for 2.2” lift) and a few individual MOPAR 2” lift components.

Here’s what I pan on ordering from the 2” kit:
- 2” lift UCAs
- 2x front brake line clips
- 2x tie rod end nuts
- 2x UCA nuts
- Track bar relocation bracket
- Tack bar brake line relocation bracket
- Track bar relocation hardware

These will be accompanied by Bilstien rear 1-1.5” rear coil springs.

Is there anything I can drop from this list?

I don’t plan on ordering the bump stop brackets because I’m running HD Timbrens in the rear.

I also get to take it in for warranty work on the leaking rear window.

Looks like a complete list. For reference, I did Icon coilovers in front and shock/springs in the rear. Net 2.8" front lift and 1.5" rear. I would suggest to spend cash on a good set of UCA's vs the mopar. With my set up, no brake line clips or brackets were needed. However, I did get an adjustable Core 4x4 trackbar. This way I have adjustability for any changes in the future plus the stock trackbar is weak. Lastly, make sure to get longer than stock sway bar end links. I see a lot of people change their end links when they lift the rear but forget to add the length needed to the links.

Just my two cents if it helps.

 

[User_26887]

Thanks, I’m assuming longer links for the front and rear?

I have Suspensionmaxx stock length links on it now (factory rears.). They make longer ones for 2-4” lifts).

Any recommendations on UCAs? I can search the forum later but my main concern is replaceable ball joints.

I would think if I went the adjustable track bar then the relocation bracket would be unnecessary. I don’t do any hard off-roading but you never know what you’ll run into on a hunting trip.

 

[User_26887]

Here’s the Mopar lift kit instructions with part numbers I was referencing FYI. Didn’t know others would start watching this thread.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/rp-part-images/assets/7925e68cf39cf0ba30395c22660cac48.PDF

Please note there is no brake line relocation hardware. I was thinking there was; that’s what happens when yah try to do make posts from memory after a 600 mile drive. Didn’t mean to lead anyone on a rabbit hole.

 

[mplaramie]

No rabbit hole at all.... Getting it right before you spend a bunch of cash is the goal. Everyone has their favorite set up and goals for their Ram.

For me, i have Core 4x4 end links +1" rear. The adjustable Core 4x4 trackbar is great and no need for additional brackets as long as you stay below a 4" lift. For UCA's, there are several options. Some kits like Icon, BDS, ect come with UCA's. Typical add on UCA's are JBA, Icon, Core, Zone, BDS, Carli, etc. I'm sure the forum can help you with feedback on UCA's.

Hope others chime in that are much smarter than me to add some help for you....

 

[User_26887]

Pretty certain I’ll order the Bilstien 6112 and Icon UCAs (delta joint) next week.

How necessary is the adjustable rear track bar for a 1-1.5” lift? I’m assuming it is for alignment purposes since Ram adds one for a 2” lift and I’m doing 75% of the same lift in the rear.

I do not plan on any more lift than what’s mentioned. If anything I’d put 275/70/R18s on my next set of tires. I just bought Cooper AT3 LT in 275/65/18 (factory size). I like having a full size matching factory take-off for my spare that I can rotate. Can’t fit more than a 33” tire under the bed with my receiver hitch.

I’ll replace links later since I can do that at home and already have the SuspensionMaxx links up front with a Hellwig in the rear. Both are less than 60 days old.

 

[User_26887]

Correction: Ram adds a track bar relocation bracket; not an adjustable track bar.

 

[mplaramie]

Pretty certain I’ll order the Bilstien 6112 and Icon UCAs (delta joint) next week.

How necessary is the adjustable rear track bar for a 1-1.5” lift? I’m assuming it is for alignment purposes since Ram adds one for a 2” lift and I’m doing 75% of the same lift in the rear.

I do not plan on any more lift than what’s mentioned. If anything I’d put 275/70/R18s on my next set of tires. I just bought Cooper AT3 LT in 275/65/18 (factory size). I like having a full size matching factory take-off for my spare that I can rotate. Can’t fit more than a 33” tire under the bed with my receiver hitch.

I’ll replace links later since I can do that at home and already have the SuspensionMaxx links up front with a Hellwig in the rear. Both are less than 60 days old.

Like the Bills 6112 in front. People have had good results with them. Icon UCA'S are great but require a little more maintinance when greasing than others. I run Icons and they are fantastic when greased properly.

For me, I wanted to have the adjustable trackbar vs brackets for adjustability. When I did my set up, the goal was to have ZERO brackets but as much adjustability as possible. This is just a personal preference.

What are you going to run in the rear? Shocks/springs or spacer?

 

[CHeYeNNe71]

I will say with the adjustable track bar and brackets it will keep your bar more horizontal, which is what you really want. That's why lifted jeeps have the brackets in front/rear, along with adjustable bars, because of what's called bump steer. The more horizontal your bar is, the better drivability. If the brackets are not crazy expensive and you can get them, I would suggest doing so. Now that you posted the information, IF I decide to lift using 6112's and 5160's w/ Bilstein coils, I will be looking for the brackets if available.

I already have the CORE4X4 rear control arms and panhard bar. I didn't get links until I decided what I'm actually doing with suspension.

Highly recommend CORE4X4 Sway bar links for rear.


EDIT:

Lifting the rear of your truck puts the factory rear track bar at an extreme angle that introduces a peculiar phenomenon of “body yaw” posed by the front and rear track bars swinging in opposite directions. Crafted from 3/16″ Cold Rolled Steel and expertly welded, the rear track bar drop bolts onto the factory mount and includes new hardware. This vital component will relocate the track bar within factory spec and eliminate the exaggerated body shift.

 

[User_26887]

I have Bilstien springs at 1-1.5” for the rear

 

[HSKR R/T]

Greetings,

Been scouring threads and seeing all sorts of great info and was looking to run some thoughts by the group on upgrades to my stock Big Horn.

Here’s the baseline:

2019 4x4 DT, 5.7 w/o e-torque, max tow (3.92), no off-road package. 55K miles on the odometer.

Daily driver over pretty nasty pavement (45 mph), mainly short commutes with a few 600-1,000 trips per year.

I hunt, haul 1-1.5K ish, tow (2-8K lb trailer weight) a few times annually, and live in an area with snowy winters. No gooseneck/5th wheel.

No rock climbing, mainly trails and fields to prep hunting areas/food plots in the off season. Currently running new 275/65/18 Cooper AT3 LTs.

Existing mods:
- Added factory tailgate dampener
- Class V receiver with adjustable hitch
- Soft bed cover
- Spray in bed liner
- Running boards
- Full size factory spare (mounted on matching take-off and rotated) hung under bed.
- Added skid plates and tow hooks
- Suspensionmaxx front sway bar end links

Planned mods to improve performance and capabilities within previously mentioned parameters and maintain a decent but more truck like ride.
- Hellwig rear sway bar and Moog end links inbound
- Bistien 6112s coilovers in front set at #7
- Factory 2.0” lift UCAs
- Bilstien 5100s in rear
- Rear 1” ORP springs to preserve some rake
- Detroit true track diffs in front and rear
- Next set of tires will be Cooper AT3 XLTs in 33 or 35s once I wear these out.

Am I missing anything or is any of the above not worth it for what I do? My plan is to do the upgrades as these components wear out or fail.

I’m wondering if I need any brackets or extended sway bar links when I do the suspension upgrades.

The Trutracks in my LJ with 4.88s were phenomenal and I miss them.

I dont think they make a tru-trac for the front differential.

 

[User_26887]

Hadn’t looked into the front. Would be nice though.

 

[User_26887]

Research update: Looking into buying the Core 4x4 2-4” lift UCAs with polyurethane bushings along with their adjustable track bar, and rear end links. This is my daily driver and I don’t need heim joints, even though both brands offer the option.

The main reason for switching is the Core 4x4 UCAs use Moog ball joints which are readily available and replacements cost less than Icon’s Delta joints which run around $225 (assuming similar labor costs). I assume Icon delta joints aren’t available locally. Core 4x4 UCAs are available in multiple lift heights (2-4” lift for my application) which would correct the geometry from adding 2.2” lift 6112s.

I also looked into JBA which is my 2nd choice because I could order the UCAs and a complete rebuild kit (ball joints/bushings) for the cost of the Ions.

Anyone else have additional thoughts?

 

[User_26887]

Been trying to chase down a front end clunk; trying to get that resolved before the lift.

 

[CHeYeNNe71]

If your leveling with struts and not spacers you technically don't need UCA'S because the alignment will still be good without the upgrade. Many claim the oem UCA'S are weak and that is the reason for upgrading. Spacer levels are the problem because they limit up travel, but don't limit down travel causing stress on the UCA and balljoint. When I do my "lift" I will be using Mevotech TTX HD UCA'S and calling it a day. No need for $500+ UCA's.

 

[HSKR R/T]

If your leveling with struts and not spacers you technically don't need UCA'S because the alignment will still be good without the upgrade. Many claim the oem UCA'S are weak and that is the reason for upgrading. Spacer levels are the problem because they limit up travel, but don't limit down travel causing stress on the UCA and balljoint. When I do my "lift" I will be using Mevotech TTX HD UCA'S and calling it a day. No need for $500+ UCA's.

The UCAs can't tell if you are using struts or spacers. The issue is the ball joint angle at full extension. As you mention, the lift allows longer droop putting stress in the stock ball joints that aren't designed for that.

 

[CHeYeNNe71]

The UCAs can't tell if you are using struts or spacers. The issue is the ball joint angle at full extension. As you mention, the lift allows longer droop putting stress in the stock ball joints that aren't designed for that.

The lift definitely can tell if spacers or struts. Nice try though. Struts limit the down travel, unlike spacers. I know you think you know everything, but honestly, you don't.