Practical upgrades

[HSKR R/T]

The lift definitely can tell if spacers or struts. Nice try though. Struts limit the down travel, unlike spacers. I know you think you know everything, but honestly, you don't.

Struts allow for longer down travel as part of the lift. It's kind of how it works. Sure they still limit the down travel, but they still allow the factory ball joints to get to angles they aren't designed for. Which is why they put disclaimers on them saying not to go over X amount of lift.

 

[User_26887]

The plan is to go 2.2 w/ Bilstien 6112s (no spacers) with UCAs/sway at end links for a 2-4” lift in the front.

On the rear axle, I have Bilstien coils and 5100s.
I removed my TIMBREN SES except for when towing or hauling; they kept contacting when hitting bumps and that can’t be good for the frame. Back to factory bump stops for now. I’ll try leaving them in after the lift and see how often they contact. Looking at Core 4x4 for the UCA, rear sway bar links, and track bar.

I’ll be adding extended sway bar links, adjustable track bar or relocation bracket.

It may take a month or two but I’d rather buy once cry once and maximize the ability to source replacement parts (i.e. balljoints) as locally as possible.

 

[CHeYeNNe71]

It may take a month or two but I’d rather buy once cry once and maximize the ability to source replacement parts (i.e. balljoints) as locally as possible.

Always do it right the first time and make sure to research what people tell you. Some people like to overthink things as well.

 

[User_26887]

Think I've decided to go with the 6112s set at #6 which is 1.9" and keeping the factory UCAs. I figure it'll probably settle in to a 1.75 inch lift eventually. I'll combine that with the rear coil springs previously mentioned for 1-1.5 in the rear with a Core 4x4 adjustable track bar and sway bar end links. I don't ever plan on going over 33" tires with this pickup since that's the largest diameter I can put with my full size spare under the bed. Has anyone done a 1.9 or 1.5 inch lift on these while keeping the factor UCA?

 

[HSKR R/T]

Think I've decided to go with the 6112s set at #6 which is 1.9" and keeping the factory UCAs. I figure it'll probably settle in to a 1.75 inch lift eventually. I'll combine that with the rear coil springs previously mentioned for 1-1.5 in the rear with a Core 4x4 adjustable track bar and sway bar end links. I don't ever plan on going over 33" tires with this pickup since that's the largest diameter I can put with my full size spare under the bed. Has anyone done a 1.9 or 1.5 inch lift on these while keeping the factor UCA?

I have a 34" tire under the bed with zero modifications

 

[User_26887]

I don't have enough space with my receiver hitch. I can just barely squeeze a 33. Right now I'm running factory size tires.

 

[HSKR R/T]

I don't have enough space with my receiver hitch. I can just barely squeeze a 33. Right now I'm running factory size tires.

This is a 275/65/20 tire on a factory BTS wheel. No modification needed.

 

[Redz72]

I’m willing to bet that worn down, off brand tire isn’t truly 34”. Especially with all the wear on it. But since it’s a spare, it’s better than nothing and helps much more than the stock spare for sure.

 

[CHeYeNNe71]

I don't have enough space with my receiver hitch. I can just barely squeeze a 33. Right now I'm running factory size tires.

There's guys running a 35" spare underneath.

 

[Redz72]

I think HSKR’s method is a good idea. Find a used full size tire that closely matches your tire size and also fits under the truck. Or if you really want, modify to fit whatever size you want.

 

[HSKR R/T]

I’m willing to bet that worn down, off brand tire isn’t truly 34”. Especially with all the wear on it. But since it’s a spare, it’s better than nothing and helps much more than the stock spare for sure.

It's not an "off brand" tire. It's fairly common in my area.

 

[User_26887]

I have an aftermarket class IV hitch that reduces the space quite a bit. I replaced the stock spare tire with a matching factory take-off I bought online.

 

[User_26887]

That's also why I think if I go w/ 1.5-1.9" up on the 6112s I shouldn't have to replace UCAs.

 

[User_26887]

Well, I just pulled the trigger on the parts.

Here’s what I ordered from Mopar (attached) along with fully assembled 6112s set at clip 7 for a 2.2” lift figuring eventually it’ll settle down to a 2”.

Here’s my line of logic as this thread has developed over the past few months.

The biggest dilemma was what to do for upper control arms and the track bar when I add the Bilstien rear springs to preserve some rake, get a good alignment and ride. See the link below.

https://www.amazon.com/Bilstein-53-297839-Special-Lifted-Springs/dp/B08WWY2QBX/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?crid=Z1UU8P8UVE5U&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.xTJEIO_EeAmm3zSg6ufCnjQAMfe9EPY3J2_vdVDF7pQ.kaxdZ5HTHLsgYfdjdaNsV4s0nr5SAI_lHRqVf8uiVms&dib_tag=se&keywords=53-297839&qid=1705366873&sprefix=53-297839%2Caps%2C95&sr=8-1

For the UCAs, I went with the Mopar UCAs (part #s from their factory lift) based on cost, availability and capabilities. Another thread confirmed their ball joints have a wider range of motion than OEM, non-air ride equipped trucks to avoid full-droop angles popping the ball joints.

We have to face facts, there are millions of the 2020+ Rams driving, hauling, towing on and off-road while holding up to abuse that many drivers put them through and use their trucks as daily drivers. These seem to hold up fine or otherwise we’d be seeing failures reported all over this forum. For my use, it’ll work, as I do not do any hard-core off-roading that requires that level of articulation. Worst case, there are millions produced and a multitude of aftermarket options available at a higher price. Mopar put these in their production run and lift kits for a reason.

I also ordered the track bar bracket and hardware as several users reported 1.5” lift from the springs (Amazon link above) even though crew cabs are supposed to see 1” which it may settle to eventually. I can order an adjustable track bar and extended end links later if needed.

Finally, if you look at the factory lift kit’s parts list referenced earlier in the thread. I didn’t order the bump stock extensions for the rear. I will leave the rear Timbren SES in full time since they won’t contact with the additional clearance and protect the suspension from bottoming out.

This should bring the front from 36.5 to 38.7/38.5 and the rear from 38 to 39 or 39.5 inches from the ground. That leaves my rake between 1-1.5” or so. For now I’ll stick with the stock tire size but bump those up to 33s on my next set.

I plan on keeping all the OEM parts as a back-up just in case.

It’ll be 2-3 weeks before the parts come in and I can get them installed. I’ll report back as I get through that. Thanks for everyone’s inputs.

 

[User_26887]

Quick correction on the measurements.
Double-checked my measurements/math and realized my error.

Rear wheel wells measure at 38.2
Front measures at 36.2

Post lift aiming for rears at 39.2-39.7
front to be at 38.2-38.4
That should leave me with a. 1.0-1.3” or so rake.

 

[CHeYeNNe71]

I also ordered the track bar bracket and hardware as several users reported 1.5” lift from the springs (Amazon link above) even though crew cabs are supposed to see 1” which it may settle to eventually. I can order an adjustable track bar and extended end links later if needed.

Is this the bracket that comes in the Mopar 2" lift kit?

 

[mplaramie]

Is this the bracket that comes in the Mopar 2" lift kit?

Yes. It's the last part "bracket".

 

[CHeYeNNe71]

Yes. It's the last part "bracket".

Thanks! I'll be looking to grab that as well.

 

[mplaramie]

Thanks! I'll be looking to grab that as well.

The one thing I forgot to get was the hardware for the bracket. Attached is the full Mopar lift parts list.

 

[boogielander]

a bit late to the party but here's what I did suspension wise:

You will notice I did not do track bar/ track bar relocation etc and i run hard. Based on my personal experience and professional experience, track bar/ relocation is not 100% needed.
You'll also not need the tie rod nut, front break line stuff, and whatnot for a ~2.5" lift. if you go over 3" then yes those would be recommended (well, other than tie rod... unless you're also removing tie rod).

Too often we have customers who do their homework (good thing) and order the parts and bring in a bunch of other things that are recommended per their research, and we end up not using them because there's no need for those.