Powerstep Installation

[SilverSurfer15]

Yea I didn’t want to drill the oem panels really. Plus there’s soemthing behind that panel, don’t remember what but soemthing when I looked the first time.

Could probably still use it but I would prefer a completely unused location.

 

[Joeyp]

Yea I didn’t want to drill the oem panels really. Plus there’s soemthing behind that panel, don’t remember what but soemthing when I looked the first time.

Could probably still use it but I would prefer a completely unused location.

Ok- let me know how you make out- I have a couple of weeks till i do my install

 

[BigHorn-SV]

Just ordered mine from AMP yesterday. No sales tax and free installation from 4WP. Boards are due in 3-4 days at my closest dealer (San Jose). Will have them install boards, but do not want them to drill holes in my rocker panel spot welds to pass wire thru for LED step lights. If they won't not do it, I'll take lights home with me and install under rocker after they install the running boards. Will post pics when installed.

 

[Repsol_Maker]

Just ordered mine from AMP yesterday. No sales tax and free installation from 4WP. Boards are due in 3-4 days at my closest dealer (San Jose). Will have them install boards, but do not want them to drill holes in my rocker panel spot welds to pass wire thru for LED step lights. If they won't not do it, I'll take lights home with me and install under rocker after they install the running boards. Will post pics when installed.

I had mine installed by 4WP (Different location.). They did not drill the pinch welds.


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[gr8ridn]

Yea I didn’t want to drill the oem panels really. Plus there’s soemthing behind that panel, don’t remember what but soemthing when I looked the first time.

Could probably still use it but I would prefer a completely unused location.

There is precious little free space on the panels. I'm thinking making a switch bracket that attaches to the left screw for the steering column lower panel. This is reversible if I don't like it. Much depends on the actual size of the switch.

 

[BigHorn-SV]

I had mine installed by 4WP (Different location.). They did not drill the pinch welds.

Did you ask them to not drill, or did they take the initiative on their own? Also, did they simply route wires under rocker panel pinch weld area? Lastly could we trouble you to post a pic? Thanks

 

[gr8ridn]

Did you ask them to not drill, or did they take the initiative on their own? Also, did they simply route wires under rocker panel pinch weld area? Lastly could we trouble you to post a pic? Thanks

On my installation I ran the LED light wire under the pinch weld and up the inside of the rocker. This was easy because the LED wires are stiff enough to retain the shape I bent them. I supported the LED harness feed wires with adhesive 1/4 clips that lock onto the harness loom. This worked really well. The adhesive clips were purchased from NAPA on a previous project.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7709250

 

[Mark985]

I'm waiting on the override switch as well. Too bad because the installation would have been easier at the time the steps were installed. On the bright side I will have time to see if the switch is really needed.

I was thinking of making my own switch setup. With the instructions downloaded it is a rather simple setup. My hang up was the size of the pins that will fit the supplied 8 pin plug. It appears to be a molex mini fit 8 pin plug. Anyone can confirm? If I can source the pins the switch and wire is no problem.

Did you ever confirm what pins that plug takes? I would much rather buy my own switch and wire it into the plug.

 

[Repsol_Maker]

Did you ask them to not drill, or did they take the initiative on their own? Also, did they simply route wires under rocker panel pinch weld area? Lastly could we trouble you to post a pic? Thanks

I will this afternoon after work.

I didn’t say anything to them.


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[Joeyp]

So I just got off the phone with AMP to clarify the deployment issue. The good news is that there isn't a need to run the override switch at all. All you need to do is apply pressure on the drivers side board when deployed and this will engage the override function until you re-open the door then it will reset. So happy there's not a need to run the switch and waste money purchasing an additional component.

 

[SilverSurfer15]

Yea I think you are missing the point of the switch. The switch is to override the auto deploy or retract function.

Examples:

Down: I want to clean the truck and put both steps down permanently while I do so and not have them moving up and down constantly as I’m in and out of the vehicle. I flip switch down, they drop and hold. I get in and out as many times as I want without the steps moving.


Up: I’m stuck in some muddy area, I want to open the door and get out but I don’t want my step to deploy down into the mud. (Or whatever it is). I flip switch up, now I can open and close doors as I wish without them going down.


The 30 min thing is just how long the “override” lasts. After 30 mins, the step will return to its default behavior upon the next door cycle. So if they are down they won’t retract after 30 mins. Just on the next door cycle after 30 mins has passed.

They have always worked on the pressure resistance since the very beginning of the product. But it’s annoying to have to go around to both sides and drop the steps to prevent door dings. And even that doesn’t help with the scenarios I mentioned above. There’s no way to stop it from moving other than unplugging the OBD. and even that’s not an option on the original ones that you had to tap the door ajar wire.

 

[Joeyp]

Yea I think you are missing the point of the switch. The switch is to override the auto deploy or retract function.

Examples:

Down: I want to clean the truck and put both steps down permanently while I do so and not have them moving up and down constantly as I’m in and out of the vehicle. I flip switch down, they drop and hold. I get in and out as many times as I want without the steps moving.


Up: I’m stuck in some muddy area, I want to open the door and get out but I don’t want my step to deploy down into the mud. (Or whatever it is). I flip switch up, now I can open and close doors as I wish without them going down.


The 30 min thing is just how long the “override” lasts. After 30 mins, the step will return to its default behavior upon the next door cycle. So if they are down they won’t retract after 30 mins. Just on the next door cycle after 30 mins has passed.

They have always worked on the pressure resistance since the very beginning of the product. But it’s annoying to have to go around to both sides and drop the steps to prevent door dings. And even that doesn’t help with the scenarios I mentioned above. There’s no way to stop it from moving other than unplugging the OBD. and even that’s not an option on the original ones that you had to tap the door ajar wire.

Gotcha....I'm happy because i think the pressure resistance will be good enough for me. Thanks for the explanation though.

 

[SilverSurfer15]

I just got my switch today, we shall see about wiring it tomrrow if it’s not raining. Seems pretty easy.

Made this tonight. See if I can find a good place to mount this little guy.

 

[gr8ridn]

I just got my switch today, we shall see about wiring it tomrrow if it’s not raining. Seems pretty easy.

Made this tonight. See if I can find a good place to mount this little guy.

I like your bracket design.. It looks professional and can provide extra functionality for additional switched circuits. Keep us informed on your findings of a mount location. Perhaps to the right of the steering column. Less chance of you hitting the bracket getting in and out of the truck.

Tracking has my switch kit coming in between 3/4 and 3/7.

 

[gr8ridn]

Gotcha....I'm happy because i think the pressure resistance will be good enough for me. Thanks for the explanation though.

One thing to be aware of is the method to keep the steps down by resisting the retraction. Using this method allows the motor to raise the step slightly from the full locked down position. In doing this the steps are supported by the motor and gear drive putting stress on those components possibly leading to premature wear if you are using the step in this position. Under normal circumstances the weight on the steps is transferred to the linkage stop position that handles the entire 600 pound load through the linkage bracket stops and not the motor gear drive. You can tell the weight on the steps is supported differently when stepping on the board. Normally the steps are rigid and solid with the supports locked down, but with the motor supporting the step above full lock with the resistive stop function with weight applied they are forced to the linkage stop through the gear drive. This has to be tough on the drive system. I don't think the motor and gear drive were designed to bear the rated load of the steps, rather they were designed with adequate strength to handle the load of moving the step up and down. One last factor is when the motor is stopped above the linkage lock position the rear linkage support is following the position by torsional twist induced from the front drive unit. Stepping on the rear section can introduce unintended torsional twist force to the board and the mounting the the supports.

Having thought about all of these issues for me the control switch function makes sense if you intend addition function beyond the door control of the boards.

I agree with others posts, the switch should be part of the standard kit. Adding an additional $35 to the kit cost would hardly be noticed and the above issues would be eliminated. The standard resistive stop should be viewed as a safety function to avoid injury and/or damage. The designers probably didn't design that function as a convenience feature. That is what the over-ride switch was designed to handle.

 

[gr8ridn]

This looks like a good spot....

The problem for that spot is it doesn't exist on our new generation Rams. The picture shows the switch where the new trucks have the emergency park over-ride cover. I don't want to mess with that safety design. There are other locations that would work depending on your tolerance to drilling factory panels that don't have electrical equipment interfering with the switch.

 

[SilverSurfer15]

I’ve noticed that about the steps. I don’t like the way they feel when you stand on them after locking them down, it’s kind of spongy. You can tell it’s not against the stops. And then when you reopen the door they violently bang against the stop.

That being said, I’ve stood on my old ones like that and never had any issues. But I’m happy to have this switch now.

It’s raining today, surprise!, so I probably won’t be doing anything further.

 

[SilverSurfer15]

Install Ian very easy. Hardest part is running the wire through the firewall.

But the switch placement.... I couldn’t find anything I liked. I ended up zip tying it under the dash on the right side. We will see how it goes, I like that’s hidden but it’s also kind of hacky.

Plus I screwed up my mounting plate, so I’ll have to make another one if I really want to clean up the install.

The switch.... so I put the steps up while I worked on the wiring and switch mounting. And they went back to working as normal after awhile, while the switch still stayed in the up position. So it seems you will have to flip it back to Auto and then up/down again to trigger a new override action.

 

[gr8ridn]

Good information on the switch programming. So if I have this right both the up and down positions work on the 30 minute time and then the next door action after they return to normal operation with the doors. I can work with that.

Your photo of the switch mount is nicely done, but I want to easily see the switch position from the driver seat. The panel screw the the left of your switch mount looks like a decent place to mount a bracket if it doesn't interfere with with leg room. I should make a prototype bracket while waiting the the kit this weekend to see what might work. Not a bad shop project while it rains and possible snows this weekend.

Another neat thing about these steps is the sound they make when opening and closing. Reminds me on aircraft retracting and deploying the landing gears. A soft whir when operating and then a clunk telling me they are at their stopped position. I always know they are operating correctly and if either of the sounds are missing I know to check the switch position or find what needs attention on the steps.

 

[jaychris]

I ran into an issue on the first step of installing. I removed the harness backet and removed the bracket from the part. I attached the replacement bracket to the part, but for the life of, I don't see a way to orient the cable harnesses and part to fit the hole alignment they want. Was there a trick to moving or placing the harnesses and part to fit or was it. just fiddling until it worked?