5thGenRams Forums

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Play in Lower Control Arm Ball Joints

ZERO play isn't true, Ram actually has specs for the lower ball joints. They also have a different procedure than what you claim.
@Cbty2050... weren't you the guy that helped parse what was going on with G/T's and their exhausts from the factory? What parts were which, etc?

Any chance you could check into this Ball Joint thing, that the only way to get ball joints replaced is with an entire control arm replacement? You had great insights previously.

Any info would be most appreciated.
 
It's all there, not much movement for specs.
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20220420-132133_Chrome.jpg
    Screenshot_20220420-132133_Chrome.jpg
    100.5 KB · Views: 87
  • Screenshot_20220420-132115_Chrome.jpg
    Screenshot_20220420-132115_Chrome.jpg
    95.2 KB · Views: 81
Really hope these work out great for you, because it's probably the root I have to take as well. Any chance you can post a pic of how they look on your truck?
I will snap a picture later but honestly they look exactly the same as the OEM lowers but with a blue boot versus black boot.
 
It is not that they don't allow it, they don't sell it.
Lol... Okay, instead of "allow it", let me rephrase what I asked: are the Mopar ball joints not able to be removed and replaced w/OEM or aftermarket balljoints?

Edited: Just crossposted with @Jeffjad, above. He said it: not replaceable. Sheesh.
 
Looking at the ball joint of the OEM LCA after it has been removed it does not look like the ball joint can just be swapped out unfortunately.
Well that sucks. Gonna be a lot of people upset by this I think in the years to come... you and I are among the first.
 
Seems like serviceability is not built into new vehicles much anymore. I recently had the def level sensor go bad in my truck and it required the entire DEF tank to be replaced as the sensor isn’t available separately.

.004” of play isn’t very much, while 0.024” is allowed on the rebel before replacement is needed.

If the lower ball joint was replaceable I think you’d see some aftermarket options available by now, I tried looking and couldn’t find anything. There is still very few options for the ecodiesel oil or fuel filters from the aftermarket companies, so it may be a while.
 
Appears to be a lip on the top and bottom of the ball joint so I just don't see how it's possible to press it out. Maybe if I get bored I will experiment with it a little bit.
PXL_20220420_205024181.jpgPXL_20220420_205006309.jpg
 
Last edited:
It's all about the parts cannon these days. Nothing is serviceable anymore. Easier for them to replace the whole control arm than is is for them to remove it, press the ball joint out, press a new one in and reinstall the control arm. Just like you used to be able to replace a CV boot once upon a time instead of replacing the whole axle. Need a wheel bearing? Nope, just replace the whole hub assembly.
 
Last edited:
Quick update. Spoke to a representative at Stellantis/RAM this morning, set up by @RamCares, and we discussed the issue in total.

I was impressed by how thorough they were in trying to understand all the details... very professional and genuinely seemed like they wanted to help (not just some teenager in a call center as their summer job). They're researching everything and getting back to me next week.

Hopefully there will be some news.
 
Quick update. Spoke to a representative at Stellantis/RAM this morning, set up by @RamCares, and we discussed the issue in total.

I was impressed by how thorough they were in trying to understand all the details... very professional and genuinely seemed like they wanted to help (not just some teenager in a call center as their summer job). They're researching everything and getting back to me next week.

Hopefully there will be some news.
Wondering if you mentioned the different spec for Rebels?
 
Wondering if you mentioned the different spec for Rebels?
I don't think there are different specs for Rebels... TRX's have a different spec, though. See the pics in post #42...
 
I have been in contact with RamCares, they followed up looking for additional info which I provided. Hoping for a response soon.

Just for clarification, I didn't check myself. I had a tire shop and the dealer both tell me it was an issue... the tire shop refusing to do an alignment as a result. The main issue is I'm told my truck will not pass State Inspection, effectively taking my truck off the road.

I really hope it's a mistake some how. Error in the parts schematic or published data that makes it seem like the only way to get a ball joint is with the control arm.

Begs the question, if you're RAM would you design a bespoke ball joint for downstream repair revenue -or- use an off the shelf ball joint that's up to spec to reduce costs?
What I want to know is how would your state know your ball joints are worn? We don't have any kind of inspection what so ever for our vehicles. I'm just trying to picture how or why a state would inspect something like ball joints.
 
What I want to know is how would your state know your ball joints are worn? We don't have any kind of inspection what so ever for our vehicles. I'm just trying to picture how or why a state would inspect something like ball joints.
Massachusetts has annual inspections, they put your vehicle up on a lift, the whole deal.

Apparently there's enough play in the front wheels for it to get rejected. Maybe it would pass in it's current condition, maybe it won't, honestly. Could the local garage think it's no big deal and pass it? Sure, stuff like that does gets thru all the time. But if it fails, I get a Reject sticker and 30 days to fix it. It's a big "come pull me over" flag on your windshield. If I'm passed the 30 days with a Reject sticker I'll get a ticket and the truck towed and impounded. IMO not worth the risk/hassle long term.

My truck is due for inspection in August, so I still have time to get it addressed properly.

PS - If I were to get pulled over for an Expired/Rejected inspection and issued a citation, if I get another citation in the next year for anything else, I'll need to take "driver reeducation" which takes a whole day out of your week and $145 bucks out of your wallet. Good times.
 
Massachusetts has annual inspections, they put your vehicle up on a lift, the whole deal.

Apparently there's enough play in the front wheels for it to get rejected. Maybe it would pass in it's current condition, maybe it won't, honestly. Could the local garage think it's no big deal and pass it? Sure, stuff like that does gets thru all the time. But if it fails, I get a Reject sticker and 30 days to fix it. It's a big "come pull me over" flag on your windshield. If I'm passed the 30 days with a Reject sticker I'll get a ticket and the truck towed and impounded. IMO not worth the risk/hassle long term.

My truck is due for inspection in August, so I still have time to get it addressed properly.

PS - If I were to get pulled over for an Expired/Rejected inspection and issued a citation, if I get another citation in the next year for anything else, I'll need to take "driver reeducation" which takes a whole day out of your week and $145 bucks out of your wallet. Good times.
That's ridiculous.
 
Quick update. Spoke to a representative at Stellantis/RAM this morning, set up by @RamCares, and we discussed the issue in total.

I was impressed by how thorough they were in trying to understand all the details... very professional and genuinely seemed like they wanted to help (not just some teenager in a call center as their summer job). They're researching everything and getting back to me next week.

Hopefully there will be some news.
That is great to hear! Thank you for this update.

Rob
Ram Cares
 
That's ridiculous.
Yes it is.

I should clarify... the truck can be impounded or towed, but that doesn't necessarily happen often. You will definitely get a ticket if you're pulled over and all the hassles that come with it.
 
UPDATE - My lower control arms have been replaced very much to my satisfaction!

Huge shout outs to @RamCares, Carrie at RAM/Stellantis, and Quirk CDJR in Marshfield MA. After a couple discussions, it was decided that my control arms would be replaced under warranty with just a $250 deductible! Took a while for the control arms to come in, but they're installed and all is well.

I have to say I was most impressed with RAM in how they treated me and my issue. Genuinely took interest, understood my complaint, and took pretty decisive action quickly. All around, one of the best customer service experiences I've ever been a part of, professionally or personally.

My general PSA - before you get to 36K miles on your truck, get the lower control arms inspected, just in case. They would be covered under the bumper-to-bumper warranty and you might not be as lucky as me.
 
  • Like
Reactions: c3k
No way to remove a ball joint from an aluminum a-arm. The bore would be damaged and the new balljoint would never fit right.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top