Oil change every 12 months

[HeavyRotation]

Years ago, like 30+ the Army wasn't changing gas/diesel wheeled vehicle oil unless the oil analysis told them to. I'm sure it saved a bazillion gallons as many vehicles as we had running around. Some folks on this forum use a lab but I rarely hear much about it. Of course dealers/shops wouldn't like it as they can't get you in the door to upsell you.

Blackstone, the cost of one saved oil change pays for analysis. I've run Rotella T6 synthetic in all my trucks, cars, motorcycles (it's JASO MA2) and lawn equipment for years. 55$ for 2.5 gallons at Wal-Mart. Delo or Delvac are good too.

 

[Royalist_Ram]

Wow! That is a lot higher than I expected, I figured 100-150ish max. Does that include fuel filters too or is that a separate thing all together if separate what's the recommended interval for fuel. I haven't had a diesel in years, last one I had was 97 f250 with the 7.3 ( sold it in 2017). I was able to do my own oil changes with 15qt for like $50 with filter. Fuel filter was every 10k, but I usually did that every 5k with the oil as the filter was easy to swap and fairly cheap. I know most newer diesels have much longer intervals for fuel filters. Kinda glad I didn't go the eco diesel route, the maintenance sounds expensive for a half ton.

For Gen 3 EcoDiesel Engines (aka 2020-2021 Ram 1500’s): Fuel filters should be changed every 2nd Oil Change, and must not exceed 20k miles. Water Drained from Fuel Filter at every 10k miles or per oil change. B6-B20 is the same for fuel filters but oil changes should not exceed 8,000 miles or 6 months, which ever comes first. Most people don’t use it, so didn’t highlight it. It’s depicted on the very last page. The rest is Depicted Below, Oil Change and Filter info in Blue and Fuel Filter Info in Red:

 

[21Bighornnightedition]

Like the OP I don't out many miles on my vehicles as I split the driving between 4 daily drivers and 3 classics (1953, 1966 and 1985). Regardless of mileage the oil and filter is changed every 6 months. The older ones get good quality non synthetic. The newer ones get the the manufacturers recommended oil.
After opening many engines over the years I learned the potential damage of condensation, especially vehicles that are primarily short runs.
It may be overkill but oil is cheaper than an engine. All the old oil is recycled.

 

[lawn]

Based on my experience with all sorts of vehicles, the transmission is now the main source of "planned obsolescence". In other words, no dip stick, self-leveling pans, non-changeable internal filter, "sealed transmission", etc., etc. are all things that contribute to premature trans failure. Seen it over and over again. A brand new trans with converter from an OEM supplier shows online at about $3K. Thats not bad really - if it stays that way and is available. Then you add the labor and some miscellaneous expenses assuming everything stays intact during the swap. Let's call it about $5-6K.

OR, you can change some or all of the fluid every 15-20K miles with a pan+filter every other change. Common sense says this is the cheaper route. But whatever you do, realize that the nonsense about "sealed" and "no maintenance" always ends in failure - planned or otherwise. period. I dont care if its your Ram, the neighbors japanese minivan, or your friends german sports car. If your dealer or service center tries to argue this, consider a different shop.

I'm all about specs and less cost .....but on this I would go with either the correct ZF or Mopar branded fluid. This thing has some tight specs based on intricate internals. And measure withdrawn fluid. Always.

There are bunch of other threads like this one. Research it until you feel confident or you can't take it anymore :/

Transmission oil...

Here's a new one, so I was advised by a non dealer tech that at 30k miles is recommended that I change transmission fluid because of the similar wear in that engines experience within their first 1k miles. Now...being that the new 8HP75 transmissions are technically sealed....who thinks that the...

5thgenrams.com

 

[1stdiesel]

The cost in Northern Ontario Canada at the dealer is $243, taxes included, I bought my own oil and filter and gave it to the dealer for them to do the service, the dealer labour was $30.17, the cost for my oil and filter was $123, so I saved $90.

oh man reading all these posts i wish i bought a gas motor, this is my first diesel and it sounds like a lot of work, getting old, just retired and thought i'd pull a trailer around see the country and now covid, and all this diesel motor filters and special fuel, extra fuel (def) expensive oil changes, come on lotto !!!

 

[securityguy]

oh man reading all these posts i wish i bought a gas motor, this is my first diesel and it sounds like a lot of work, getting old, just retired and thought i'd pull a trailer around see the country and now covid, and all this diesel motor filters and special fuel, extra fuel (def) expensive oil changes, come on lotto !!!

Most folks never get their money back by buying a diesel. If you need one for towing, I get it. If not, buy a gasser.

 

[Rlaf75]

On my 2011 Ram with the Hemi I used Napa 5w20 "blend" and a Napa Gold filter and I changed it whenever the message popped up on the dash and I never had a problem. I traded that truck in a week and a half ago with 80k miles on it for my new 2021 Built To Serve with a Hemi and I plan on doing the exact same thing with the oil change intervals. The dealers hardly ever see any of my vehicle's because I've been a mechanic for 25+ years and I do everything myself except warranty or recall work.

 

[c3k]

oh man reading all these posts i wish i bought a gas motor, this is my first diesel and it sounds like a lot of work, getting old, just retired and thought i'd pull a trailer around see the country and now covid, and all this diesel motor filters and special fuel, extra fuel (def) expensive oil changes, come on lotto !!!

Nah. Diesels are fine.

It's not a lot of work...it's just different work. If you don't like doing your own maintenance, find a reputable mechanic around who'll do it for you. Far cheaper than a dealer. (If you do your own, you'll save beaucoup bucks and have the peace of mind knowing how the work was done.)

It's a bit early to tell what the longevity will be like, but all my diesels have lasted hundreds of thousands of miles.

 

[Rebelguy2020]

oh man reading all these posts i wish i bought a gas motor, this is my first diesel and it sounds like a lot of work, getting old, just retired and thought i'd pull a trailer around see the country and now covid, and all this diesel motor filters and special fuel, extra fuel (def) expensive oil changes, come on lotto !!!

This truck is my first with the Diesel engine and my wife and I are six months away from my retirement, and like you we plan on touring North America while towing a small travel trailer. This is my everyday truck and I only tow maybe 5% of the time, so many people say that diesels are only good for towing, I disagree, the low end torque is impressive, it moves the truck effortlessly at such low rpm, making it very fuel efficient, in town, on the highway and while towing. I do not miss my older truck with the gas engine (5.7 Hemi) specially in the winter, idle time for warm up sucked the gas and the mpg also tanked in the winter.
At the fuel pump there is only one choice, diesel, not like gas, you have to decide whether to use 87, 89 or 91 octane, 89 is recommended for the Hemi.
By comparison, I had a small 2017 Hyundai Accent for a daily driver and it required oil changes every 5,000 km at $80 (regular oil not synthetic oil), so 3 oil changes while my truck gets one oil change at every 15,000km, so at the dealer the truck for one oil change was $243 and at the dealer for the car for three oil changes was $240 and it would have been a lot more if I were to put synthetic. I realize the if the oil changes were done by myself the oil changes would be substantially cheaper for the car but like you I am getting older and I let someone else do it.

The DEF usage is very minimal, around 1,200 mpg.

This Rebel is my retirement truck and I spoiled myself by adding $18,000 worth of options, the Diesel engine is the only option that actually payed for itself in one year of ownership. There was a $2,500 rebate here in Canada for the Diesel engine option, the Diesel option without rebate was $3,900 so my cost was only $1,400.

I sincerely hope you get to like your Diesel truck.

 

[1stdiesel]

Nah. Diesels are fine.

It's not a lot of work...it's just different work. If you don't like doing your own maintenance, find a reputable mechanic around who'll do it for you. Far cheaper than a dealer. (If you do your own, you'll save beaucoup bucks and have the peace of mind knowing how the work was done.)

It's a bit early to tell what the longevity will be like, but all my diesels have lasted hundreds of thousands of miles.

ok cool, i like doing my own work and my neighbor is all good he has a lift in his garage and he works on everything, i bought that fumoto valve for the oil drain i saw it's right above a cross member sort of, will put that in on my 1st oil change i have 4k miles now plan on doing it within 5k. Thanks

 

[1stdiesel]

This truck is my first with the Diesel engine and my wife and I are six months away from my retirement, and like you we plan on touring North America while towing a small travel trailer. This is my everyday truck and I only tow maybe 5% of the time, so many people say that diesels are only good for towing, I disagree, the low end torque is impressive, it moves the truck effortlessly at such low rpm, making it very fuel efficient, in town, on the highway and while towing. I do not miss my older truck with the gas engine (5.7 Hemi) specially in the winter, idle time for warm up sucked the gas and the mpg also tanked in the winter.
At the fuel pump there is only one choice, diesel, not like gas, you have to decide whether to use 87, 89 or 91 octane, 89 is recommended for the Hemi.
By comparison, I had a small 2017 Hyundai Accent for a daily driver and it required oil changes every 5,000 km at $80 (regular oil not synthetic oil), so 3 oil changes while my truck gets one oil change at every 15,000km, so at the dealer the truck for one oil change was $243 and at the dealer for the car for three oil changes was $240 and it would have been a lot more if I were to put synthetic. I realize the if the oil changes were done by myself the oil changes would be substantially cheaper for the car but like you I am getting older and I let someone else do it.

The DEF usage is very minimal, around 1,200 mpg.

This Rebel is my retirement truck and I spoiled myself by adding $18,000 worth of options, the Diesel engine is the only option that actually payed for itself in one year of ownership. There was a $2,500 rebate here in Canada for the Diesel engine option, the Diesel option without rebate was $3,900 so my cost was only $1,400.

I sincerely hope you get to like your Diesel truck.

Thanks, i love the truck and it's my daily driver too, sold the corvette and bought the ram 1500 limited, 18k in options nice it sounds good !! love the gas mileage around 25 mpg on hwy at 75 mph --392 rear end. Enjoy !!

 

[Oldphart]

Based on my experience with all sorts of vehicles, the transmission is now the main source of "planned obsolescence". In other words, no dip stick, self-leveling pans, non-changeable internal filter, "sealed transmission", etc., etc. are all things that contribute to premature trans failure. Seen it over and over again. A brand new trans with converter from an OEM supplier shows online at about $3K. Thats not bad really - if it stays that way and is available. Then you add the labor and some miscellaneous expenses assuming everything stays intact during the swap. Let's call it about $5-6K.

OR, you can change some or all of the fluid every 15-20K miles with a pan+filter every other change. Common sense says this is the cheaper route. But whatever you do, realize that the nonsense about "sealed" and "no maintenance" always ends in failure - planned or otherwise. period. I dont care if its your Ram, the neighbors japanese minivan, or your friends german sports car. If your dealer or service center tries to argue this, consider a different shop.

I'm all about specs and less cost .....but on this I would go with either the correct ZF or Mopar branded fluid. This thing has some tight specs based on intricate internals. And measure withdrawn fluid. Always.

There are bunch of other threads like this one. Research it until you feel confident or you can't take it anymore :/

Transmission oil...

Here's a new one, so I was advised by a non dealer tech that at 30k miles is recommended that I change transmission fluid because of the similar wear in that engines experience within their first 1k miles. Now...being that the new 8HP75 transmissions are technically sealed....who thinks that the...

5thgenrams.com

I had a 2016 GMC canyon and the transmission was "unservacable" also. Some guy developed an aluminum trans pan that not only held an additional 2 qts but had a dipstick that was properly calibrated. Sold all he could make for $300. Changing the trans fluid was just like the good old days. If someone has the ability to design and make something similar for the 5.7 Hemi, I'm in. If it could also incorporate a bypass for the trans cooler thermostat, so much the better.

 

[Royalist_Ram]

So last week I picked up my ‘22 LR Defender 90 S and was surprised to see in the owner’s manual, that Oil changes, and the first service in general, is after 21k miles or every 2 years. That’s insane. I always changed oil between every 7,500-12,000 miles, probably gonna do that for the Defender (dependent on what the manufacturer requires) and to think some people still change their oil every 3,000-5,000 is beyond me. Just thought it was funny to compare and how crazy that is for that engine and its design.

 

[Reverse]

Years ago, like 30+ the Army wasn't changing gas/diesel wheeled vehicle oil unless the oil analysis told them to. I'm sure it saved a bazillion gallons as many vehicles as we had running around. Some folks on this forum use a lab but I rarely hear much about it. Of course dealers/shops wouldn't like it as they can't get you in the door to upsell you.

We have two Hemi trucks. I get oil analyzed sometimes. By default I go by the indicator on the dash, which with my driving is every 10,000 miles. Analysis has confirmed that even at 10,000 miles the oil is fine and I could go longer. So I just change at 10,000. One has 187,000 miles on it, the other 57,000 miles.

 

[Orion10182011]

Use full synthetic and go by the oil minder on the dash.

 

[jimk hunt]

Go to Project Farm channel on u tube. Search his videos for the 1 year oil change and resulting analysis. I won't spoil it for you and you will probably want to subscribe. He is a great resource.

 

[HoosierTrooper]

Never ceases to amaze me that people believe the "tests" done by an amateur Youtuber in his garage using made up tests and homemade equipment somehow provide valuable data. All licensed oils are submitted to a complete and thorough battery of sequence tests conducted in state of the art labs by trained professionals using state of the art equipment following strict ASTM testing protocols, yet somehow his phony tests provide information that these labs can't.

 

[jimk hunt]

Never ceases to amaze me that people believe the "tests" done by an amateur Youtuber in his garage using made up tests and homemade equipment somehow provide valuable data. All licensed oils are submitted to a complete and thorough battery of sequence tests conducted in state of the art labs by trained professionals using state of the art equipment following strict ASTM testing protocols, yet somehow his phony tests provide information that these labs can't.

Don't know if you bothered to watch the video I referenced but for others who have an open mind he sent the oil to Blackstone Labs for analysis. He doesn't usually make black and white decisions but presents his testing data and lets the viewer decide. "Phony tests"? Please elaborate.

 

[HoosierTrooper]

Don't know if you bothered to watch the video I referenced but for others who have an open mind he sent the oil to Blackstone Labs for analysis. He doesn't usually make black and white decisions but presents his testing data and lets the viewer decide. "Phony tests"? Please elaborate.

Yes phony, made up tests. Cooking oil on a hot plate, “cold flow” test of oil running down some PVC pipe and using a test for extreme pressure lubes like grease to determine “wear”. The ASTM has actual sequence tests for every one of those categories that are controlled and scientific, not done in some guys garage.

Understanding the difference between ASTM regulated scientific testing protocols and amateur Youtubers making money when people watch their videos does not require an open mind, it requires critical thinking.

 

[jimk hunt]

Yes phony, made up tests. Cooking oil on a hot plate, “cold flow” test of oil running down some PVC pipe and using a test for extreme pressure lubes like grease to determine “wear”. The ASTM has actual sequence tests for every one of those categories that are controlled and scientific, not done in some guys garage.

Understanding the difference between ASTM regulated scientific testing protocols and amateur Youtubers making money when people watch their videos does not require an open mind, it requires critical thinking.

WOW such a critic. Guy does all tests at his own expense, gets right to the point and sure makes a little $ for his work. Nothing wrong with that in my book. And again, he sent his sample to Blackstone, didn't do it himself. Just trying to give the OP a resource to answer his question. That's what many posts on here are about. Watch him or not, I don't care. He's an independent resource in a world with very few of them left. Have a good one.