The higher operating temps is the one thing that I see a big difference between my hemi from 2009 and the new one from 2020. So I agree you have a point about running synthetic just for that alone. Appreciate the reminder.I, personally, would never let DINO oil in any new engine over the last 10+ years based on the tight tolerances and higher operating temps and let it go for over 3-5K miles. Full Syn is cheap and like $22 for 5 quarts of a high quality oil like Pennzoil Platinum or many others at Walmart. Just my 2 cents.
It would be nice to know just what % the "synthetic blend" is that I get MOPAR coupons on... Any "blend" can be meaningless unless they specify what amount. The factory filled (mine) with dino and the service advisor at my closest dealer said they primarily use dino so...The higher operating temps is the one thing that I see a big difference between my hemi from 2009 and the new one from 2020. So I agree you have a point about running synthetic just for that alone. Appreciate the reminder.
Not a fan of "blends". Even the Full Syn that Walmart sells for like $3-$4 a quart would be far better than any blend. Their oil actually gets good reviews and is made by a highly reputable refiner which, I think, is the same one who makes the Costco oil and several others. If you don't keep a vehicle long, and like to go cheap, do a dino or blend. If you plan to keep your vehicle for many years, go Full Syn...not much more at all and far better for your engine. Even though I don't keep vehicles for more than 1.5-2.5 years, I only use Full Syn because it makes me feel better and I know the next owner would be very pleasedIt would be nice to know just what % the "synthetic blend" is that I get MOPAR coupons on... Any "blend" can be meaningless unless they specify what amount. The factory filled (mine) with dino and the service advisor at my closest dealer said they primarily use dino so...
Of course if I towed, idled alot (like my son does) had mtn passes to deal with, AZ or FL heat etc. then that would be different.
Years ago, like 30+ the Army wasn't changing gas/diesel wheeled vehicle oil unless the oil analysis told them to. I'm sure it saved a bazillion gallons as many vehicles as we had running around. Some folks on this forum use a lab but I rarely hear much about it. Of course dealers/shops wouldn't like it as they can't get you in the door to upsell you.Not a fan of "blends". Even the Full Syn that Walmart sells for like $3-$4 a quart would be far better than any blend. Their oil actually gets good reviews and is made by a highly reputable refiner which, I think, is the same one who makes the Costco oil and several others. If you don't keep a vehicle long, and like to go cheap, do a dino or blend. If you plan to keep your vehicle for many years, go Full Syn...not much more at all and far better for your engine. Even though I don't keep vehicles for more than 1.5-2.5 years, I only use Full Syn because it makes me feel better and I know the next owner would be very pleased
I use 100% synthetics in my vehicles, gas and diesel. I change at 10,000 miles or 1 year.What’s the recommendation for us retired folks who don’t drive much, regarding changing the oil every 12 months regardless of mileage? I changed my oil at breakin at like 1000 miles and 12 months later only added like 3000 more miles. I try and drive it 2 or 3 times a month.
Most all folks use Blackstone Labs. However, for me, I think it's kind of silly to do oil analyses unless there is an issue you are very concerned about or just plain old bored. IMPO, if you choose any high quality fully synthetic oil like Pennzoil, Amsoil, Castrol, Valvoline and Mobil1 you really can't go wrong. Some folks will try one brand, then do an oil analysis and then try another and say like "this OA has far more magnesium blah blah blah...." Just use a solid oil, change it when you're supposed to and never look back! Paralysis by analysis In most cases, regardless of what you do, your engine will outlive your truck and, if the engine does have issues, it certainly won't be because of your full synthetic oil selection.Years ago, like 30+ the Army wasn't changing gas/diesel wheeled vehicle oil unless the oil analysis told them to. I'm sure it saved a bazillion gallons as many vehicles as we had running around. Some folks on this forum use a lab but I rarely hear much about it. Of course dealers/shops wouldn't like it as they can't get you in the door to upsell you.
And really we most all "overmaintain". I know I do. When in doubt I change fluids. My Ford Edge has a problematic center diff (called a PTU, google it sometime) that likes to cook the 75-140 into a sludge and $1,500 later you're rolling again... Unless you change the .5 liter of "lifetime" fluid (and there's no drain plug).Most all folks use Blackstone Labs. However, for me, I think it's kind of silly to do oil analyses unless there is an issue you are very concerned about or just plain old bored. IMPO, if you choose any high quality fully synthetic oil like Pennzoil, Amsoil, Castrol, Valvoline and Mobil1 you really can't go wrong. Some folks will try one brand, then do an oil analysis and then try another and say like "this OA has far more magnesium blah blah blah...." Just use a solid oil, change it when you're supposed to and never look back! Paralysis by analysis In most cases, regardless of what you do, your engine will outlive your truck and, if the engine does have issues, it certainly won't be because of your full synthetic oil selection.
The cost in Northern Ontario Canada at the dealer is $243, taxes included, I bought my own oil and filter and gave it to the dealer for them to do the service, the dealer labour was $30.17, the cost for my oil and filter was $123, so I saved $90.What's the cost for an oil change on the ecodiesel running, just curious?
Wow! That is a lot higher than I expected, I figured 100-150ish max. Does that include fuel filters too or is that a separate thing all together if separate what's the recommended interval for fuel. I haven't had a diesel in years, last one I had was 97 f250 with the 7.3 ( sold it in 2017). I was able to do my own oil changes with 15qt for like $50 with filter. Fuel filter was every 10k, but I usually did that every 5k with the oil as the filter was easy to swap and fairly cheap. I know most newer diesels have much longer intervals for fuel filters. Kinda glad I didn't go the eco diesel route, the maintenance sounds expensive for a half ton.It's like $200-250 from a dealer, filter alone is $90. Luckily got my maintenance and oil changes free from Stellantis.
That's a good investment!The cost in Northern Ontario Canada at the dealer is $243, taxes included, I bought my own oil and filter and gave it to the dealer for them to do the service, the dealer labour was $30.17, the cost for my oil and filter was $123, so I saved $90.
Its early for me but Ive been debating on going the Amsoil route on my tranny. I read somewhere ZF oil is a semi synthetic blend. Which if true, I'm totally freaken shocked especially for what they charge for it.I just don't look forward to the ZF trans fluid change. Horrendous prices!
Look for the dealer and regional coupons. I've used them for 2 years now, usually conventional oil/filter works out to about $30-35 per visit, and that's 6 quarts in the hemi.
Just a little tip, not trying to be picky, just preventing others from making a mistake... 5.7 Hemi is 7 quarts. I usually do 0.5 quarts into the new filter, and 6.5 into the engine. Sorry if someone already commented and I missed it.
The ZF tranny, if you read notes from actual ZF engineers, is supposedly good until around 60k-70k miles. (Obviously less if you tow or really push it hard.) The filter isn't replaceable, its built into the pan, so if you want an OEM filter, you have to replace the entire transmission pan. For the 4th gens' trannies (slightly different than our 5th gens), they now have aftermarket pans with replaceable filters. Not sure if those will fit our newer 5th gens. (4th gens used 8HP70 for the Hemi, 5th gens use 8HP75, if memory serves.)
If it is anywhere near $200, that is less than it used to be. I remember back in 2016 or so, you had a hard time finding all the stuff for less than $400, and no options for aftermarket/replaceable filters/pans. So yes, $200 isn't cheap, but I'm just happy its getting better.That's why those ZF fluid change kits are so pricey, due to a new pan, I think it's just under $200 online for the fluid, gasket, pan/filter and bolts.
If it is anywhere near $200, that is less than it used to be. I remember back in 2016 or so, you had a hard time finding all the stuff for less than $400, and no options for aftermarket/replaceable filters/pans. So yes, $200 isn't cheap, but I'm just happy its getting better.
Regarding engine oil, as others said, I'd use a decent synthetic and change it yearly or right before with that low of mileage. I'm going to hit 10 months or a bit more myself before I change mine (5k miles) thanks to lack of travel due to COVID.