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New info on Gas tank fueling issue

Pattern for me has been that as soon as a cold spell hits I start having this issue. I had the entire tank assembly replaced December 2021 and then again December 2022... we had a cold spell here and now it's happening again. I'm out of warranty but since this will be the third repair and it's only been 11 months I'm hoping my dealer will help me out so I'm not bearing the entire cost to replace the whole tank assembly again. Super frustrating and I'm going to have zero confidence a year from now that I won't have the issue yet again. :(
Maybe it’s the evap system, and not the actual fuel tank.
 
Pattern for me has been that as soon as a cold spell hits I start having this issue. I had the entire tank assembly replaced December 2021 and then again December 2022... we had a cold spell here and now it's happening again. I'm out of warranty but since this will be the third repair and it's only been 11 months I'm hoping my dealer will help me out so I'm not bearing the entire cost to replace the whole tank assembly again. Super frustrating and I'm going to have zero confidence a year from now that I won't have the issue yet again. :(
Most of the time, any maintenance is covered under a 12 minth warranty , even if outside factory warranty
 
Pattern for me has been that as soon as a cold spell hits I start having this issue. I had the entire tank assembly replaced December 2021 and then again December 2022... we had a cold spell here and now it's happening again. I'm out of warranty but since this will be the third repair and it's only been 11 months I'm hoping my dealer will help me out so I'm not bearing the entire cost to replace the whole tank assembly again. Super frustrating and I'm going to have zero confidence a year from now that I won't have the issue yet again. :(
Yup same here. I only have the fueling issue during the winter as well.
 
Got a 2019 Dodge Ramm 1500, classic trim. I believe I have the 23gal tank, and started to run into this issue around 65k miles. Well I've waited to long and I'm at 74k and the problem has only gotten worse. Seems I might have that defective tank from what others have said.
 
Some folks have had the fuel neck and/or vent line replaced as well. Not always the tank that’s the issue. You can disconnect the line and see if that helps. It will throw a CEL eventually if you don’t connect it back.
 
Didn't realize this issue had a thread up here too. Mine started not accepting fuel around 10/12/23. Sometimes the oldest style of pump nozzle will still go at minimum flow. Ambient temp wasn't different then. I have 58,9k miles; is this supposed to be covered? I think I have the 100k warranty.

Is tank replacement the only fix? Is there a non-epa fix after warranty that any of you guys have figured out? Can the check ball be removed from the tank by any means possible? I asked down below about a coat hanger or air blast unseating the ball, but I'm not carrying air around to fill up. What is the line to disconnect on the last page that was talked about? If that triggers a check engine light, then I'll program that out of it. Sorry, I didn't read the entire thread.
 
Didn't realize this issue had a thread up here too. Mine started not accepting fuel around 10/12/23. Sometimes the oldest style of pump nozzle will still go at minimum flow. Ambient temp wasn't different then. I have 58,9k miles; is this supposed to be covered? I think I have the 100k warranty.

Is tank replacement the only fix? Is there a non-epa fix after warranty that any of you guys have figured out? Can the check ball be removed from the tank by any means possible? I asked down below about a coat hanger or air blast unseating the ball, but I'm not carrying air around to fill up. What is the line to disconnect on the last page that was talked about? If that triggers a check engine light, then I'll program that out of it. Sorry, I didn't read the entire thread.
Emissions warranty is 8yr/80k miles. This would be covered under that.

It's not a check ball in the filler neck. It's usually an issue if the evap line getting plugged or full of fuel. If you "top off" your tank after pump first clicks off then it's self induced. cost hanger or blast of air isn't going to help. Air may actually make it worse as you are forcing more air into the tank that already can't vent it out.
 
Got a 2019 Dodge Ramm 1500, classic trim. I believe I have the 23gal tank, and started to run into this issue around 65k miles. Well I've waited to long and I'm at 74k and the problem has only gotten worse. Seems I might have that defective tank from what others have said.
Your 1500 Classic is a 4th gen, and has a totally different fuel tank than 5th gens. Also, you either have a 26 or 32 gallon tank as that's what's available in 4th gens. From what I've read 4th gens can also have similar refueling issues that 5th gens have. Just make sure you buy parts for a 4th gen if you decide to try and fix this yourself.
 
Partial update:

I had my service appointment this morning for my 2021 Laramie with the 33 gallon tank. I already have it back. It was quickly diagnosed as having the faulty check valve (rollover valve?), consistent with the Service Bulletin on this issue. They are ordering a replacement tank. With the strike, they were unable to predict how long it will take to receive the part.

Incidentally, they also updated the door modules, which will hopefully correct the issue of the passenger side-view mirror intermittently remaining aimed down when shifting from Reverse into Drive.

Emissions warranty is 8yr/80k miles. This would be covered under that.

It's not a check ball in the filler neck. It's usually an issue if the evap line getting plugged or full of fuel. If you "top off" your tank after pump first clicks off then it's self induced. cost hanger or blast of air isn't going to help. Air may actually make it worse as you are forcing more air into the tank that already can't vent it out.
???
 
If you watch the video @bigdodge posted on 12-22-21 it shows the vent line from the filler neck to the canister. If this line or the canister is plugged, or has fuel in it, your filler neck will not be able to release air and will cause the fuel nozzle to shut off. This pic is from behind the fuel door, in front of the drivers side rear fender. Not sure what the other two lines are for. Maybe someone can clarify.

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If you watch the video @bigdodge posted on 12-22-21 it shows the vent line from the filler neck to the canister. If this line or the canister is plugged, or has fuel in it, your filler neck will not be able to release air and will cause the fuel nozzle to shut off. This pic is from behind the fuel door, in front of the drivers side rear fender. Not sure what the other two lines are for. Maybe someone can clarify.

View attachment 170407
Hm........
Is that little hole inside the cap area not a water drain?
Because mine drinks water, and it naturally goes into that hole, during a car wash, even natural rain it will go inside.

Is is this an internal vent? Or that hole i'm thinking of...
 
Hm........
Is that little hole inside the cap area not a water drain?
Because mine drinks water, and it naturally goes into that hole, during a car wash, even natural rain it will go inside.

Is is this an internal vent? Or that hole i'm thinking of...
I think you’re referring to a different hole lol. The one I’m referring to makes contact with the neck further down
 
I think you’re referring to a different hole lol. The one I’m referring to makes contact with the neck further down
The one i'm talking about is directly below where I put the gas nozzle in.
Looks like a plastic grommet.

My wife always gets mad at me something about the wrong hole I should be used to this.
 
The one i'm talking about is directly below where I put the gas nozzle in.
Looks like a plastic grommet.

My wife always gets mad at me something about the wrong hole I should be used to this.
😂

I know what you’re talking about. I’m pretty sure that ones to drain water to the ground
 
My 2021 RAM Laramie (26 gal tank) had this issue last winter on Christmas eve, I could not fill more than a split second of fuel before it clicked. I tried all angles with the pump and pulled it out bit by bit, no luck, it would then just spit fuel back at me. I had to drive 180 miles and it took 10 minutes to get 5 gallons of fuel. The issue came and went. It definitely happens more when it is cold. It did however happen once this summer and then now again, this time it didn't go away. I took it in and the dealership said they were going to fog test the system? After their test, they said they are replacing the ESIM. I'll let you all know if this resolves the issue. From an internet search it appears the part is below. This may not be the official Chrystler brand part though. I found it on Oreilly for ~$33. My truck is still under warranty and I intend to buy another extended warranty when my 42 month warranty expires, I had extended it at lease sign to cover the lease time. I would like to buy the truck... I have heard these gen 5s no longer break manifold bolts but the manifolds themselves now crack.

Standard Ignition Fuel Vapor Leak Detection Pump - LDP12​

 
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.... faulty check valve (rollover valve?), consistent with the Service Bulletin on this issue. They are ordering a replacement tank. ...

...

It's not a check ball in the filler neck. It's usually an issue if the evap line getting plugged or full of fuel. ...

Chopped for clarity/contrast. I don't "top off". Just wondering how all these tanks are getting replaced, if the vent solenoid is the problem. And what are all the missing steps in the diag procedure?

I've had the vent solenoid replaced on my GMC so I could refuel, and I simply let the check engine light stay on (and I could refuel) for a while on a toyota that was fuel logged, which did dry out, altho I don't remember how long. Motorcycle cannisters do dry out fairly quick - couple days.
 
Chopped for clarity/contrast. I don't "top off". Just wondering how all these tanks are getting replaced, if the vent solenoid is the problem. And what are all the missing steps in the diag procedure?

I've had the vent solenoid replaced on my GMC so I could refuel, and I simply let the check engine light stay on (and I could refuel) for a while on a toyota that was fuel logged, which did dry out, altho I don't remember how long. Motorcycle cannisters do dry out fairly quick - couple days.
I am suggesting to disconnect the vent line and try to fuel to see if that makes a difference.

Does anyone have a good diagram of the EVAP system?
 
I suppose someone could try disconnecting their ESIM and maybe the tank would fill? I think it is connected to the canister? It seems to be a mechanical part by a plenum, weight and spring which opens/closes due to vacuum vs no vacuum. If the part stays closed, I think it wouldn't allow any venting but might not throw codes when the truck is running? Maybe tapping on it or disconnect would allow fill? My truck is in the shop or I'd give it a try. If they give me the old ESIM part back, I'll take it apart and check for corrosion on the parts, my garage is very humid, maybe something rusts and gets jammed? I am only speculating and still don't even know if a new ESIM fixed my issue or not yet. The dealership is waiting on the new ESIM for install.
 
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Maybe this video would be helpful if this turns out to be ESIM, it's how they work. There is also a diagram though not detailed in the video. related:
 
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