My First Oil Change - Some Notes for those interested in trying it themselves

Jako

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Well I didn't actually see the book in question, just spoke with a RAM tech while I was at the dealership picking up my cabin air filter. I asked him what the new RAM trucks engine drain bolt toque spec was, he asked me was it a "gas or diesel?" I said it was a Hemi, he said "the book states 25 ft-lbs or 34Nm" for that motor.

He also mentions most of them don't use torque wrenches for the drain bolts, they already have the "feel".
Thanks for your reply.
That basically sums up my experience with an "official", "documented" or whatever someone wants to call it answer.
I'm a DIY type of individual and try to research a "project" before "learning the hard way" (paid that price already).
I think the torque value is avoided for dissemination do to the variables with residual oil, possible and potential liability, and "bring it to the dealer" for the oil change.
Maybe "Ram Cares" will chime in with the setting or an explanation.
 

securityguy

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I don’t think RAM Cares is going to tell us the torque value. What my experience tells me is that anything between 18-25 will be fine if you really think you need a torque wrench. As someone stated above, tighten it by hand and then give it another 1/16 to 1/8 turn and call it a day. It’s the tech monkeys that tighten these bolts with an impact wrench that are the issue...and trust me it does happen
 

SD Rebel

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Thanks for your reply.
That basically sums up my experience with an "official", "documented" or whatever someone wants to call it answer.
I'm a DIY type of individual and try to research a "project" before "learning the hard way" (paid that price already).
I think the torque value is avoided for dissemination do to the variables with residual oil, possible and potential liability, and "bring it to the dealer" for the oil change.
Maybe "Ram Cares" will chime in with the setting or an explanation.
I will say this tech specifically made it clear that is the official torque rating from his digital service manual. The 25 ft-lbs has been around for a while on forums, It's there because just about all 5.7L Hemi V8s since they came out call for it (300C, Challenger/Charger, Etc). On a side note, the highest rating I've seen for a gas engine is 28 ft-lbs and the lowest 15 ft-lbs.

Though as I said before, when I removed my bolt, which was factory installed, it was on there very lightly, it definitely didn't feel like 25 ft-lbs, more like 15 ft-lbs.
 

Jako

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I don’t think RAM Cares is going to tell us the torque value. What my experience tells me is that anything between 18-25 will be fine if you really think you need a torque wrench. As someone stated above, tighten it by hand and then give it another 1/16 to 1/8 turn and call it a day. It’s the tech monkeys that tighten these bolts with an impact wrench that are the issue...and trust me it does happen.
You got me laughing with the thought of an impact wrench!!!!!!!
I agree with you on Ram Cares and tightening. I don't use a torque wrench and just tighten it up, which is pretty much what I have always done. Than I bought BMW motorcycles and started doing my own services. Some of their services on brake fluid (ABS) and valves shims can be involved and require paying attention to the details. The BMW service manual gives you the torque values for everything and that behavior was carried over to the Ram.
 

Ccm12

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Installed the fumoto today and changed oil with Mobil 1 5w-30 and mobil1 filter for first time on new truck. I cursed the location of the filter.
That being said I am wondering if folks check oil level with a cold engine or if the dip stick is recalibrated to measure for a warm engine.
I eyeballed about 6.5-7 but got different readings cold then after it had run for a bit.
 

SD Rebel

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Installed the fumoto today and changed oil with Mobil 1 5w-30 and mobil1 filter for first time on new truck. I cursed the location of the filter.
That being said I am wondering if folks check oil level with a cold engine or if the dip stick is recalibrated to measure for a warm engine.
I eyeballed about 6.5-7 but got different readings cold then after it had run for a bit.
The engine dipstick is setup for a fully up to temp engine, about 200F, after a 5 minute shutdown. Or a completely cold engine. Anything in between will likely result in an artificially low reading, especially starting the truck for a few seconds and then turning off will read low.

I would just put in 6.5 to 6.75 quarts during an oil change, which will guarantee it's between the lines and safe to drive. Then drive it until it's up to temp, turn off, wait 5 minutes as per the manual, then check and adjust as needed.

On the dipstick, you will see the oil on both sides is different, one will be higher than the other, always use the low side reading as the accurate one.
 
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Ccm12

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Installed the fumoto today and changed oil with Mobil 1 5w-30 and mobil1 filter for first time on new truck. I cursed the location of the filter.
That being said I am wondering if folks check oil level with a cold engine or if the dip stick is recalibrated to measure for a warm engine.
I eyeballed about 6.5-7 but got different readings cold then after it had run for a bit.
The engine dipstick is setup for a fully up to temp engine, about 200F, after a 5 minute shutdown. Or a completely cold engine. Anything in between will likely result in an artificially low reading, especially starting the truck for a few seconds and then turning off will read low.

I would just put in 6.5 to 6.75 quarts during an oil change, which will guarantee it's between the lines and safe to drive. Then drive it until it's up to temp, turn off, wait 5 minutes as per the manual, then check and adjust as needed.

On the dipstick, you will see the oil on both sides is different, one will be higher than the other, always use the low side reading as the accurate one.
Terrific info. Will get her up to temp tomorrow and get another reading
 

SD Rebel

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Installed the fumoto today and changed oil with Mobil 1 5w-30 and mobil1 filter for first time on new truck. I cursed the location of the filter.
That being said I am wondering if folks check oil level with a cold engine or if the dip stick is recalibrated to measure for a warm engine.
I eyeballed about 6.5-7 but got different readings cold then after it had run for a bit.

Terrific info. Will get her up to temp tomorrow and get another reading
Sounds like you are pretty good already, based on what you already put in, you should be right between the lines and can just leave it there, but most of us like it just at the line. Every dealership I got an oil change from usually were a 1/4 to 1/2 above the line, probably because they didn't really drain my oil out all the way. Another reason why I do my own oil changes.
 

JohnnyBgoode

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Did my first oil change on the 5.7L this morning, at 4,725 miles, or 1 year since I purchased the truck. The build date was actually Jan 2019, so this oil was over 1 year 7 months old, so good idea to change it.

I went with Shell Rotella Gas Truck synthetic 5W-20 and Mopar MO-339 filter. Purchased two 5 quart jugs at Walmart for $22 each and the oil filter at $10. I love the fact these jugs don't have the foil seal to worry about falling into the crankcase when pouring in, just a clean top after your remove the cap.

For lifting the truck, I used a set of Rhino Ramps 16,000 lbs capacity ($50 amazon). They held up great, absolutely no issues driving up and down ramps, zero signs of tension on the ramps. I also used two waterproof tarps to lay under the truck for oil spillage.

My greatest worry (as is many) was that the oil filter would be really hard to remove. Luckily for me, it easily came off. I wonder if it's because I got the engine to full operating temp before I did the oil change? Maybe the 200F heat made the filter easier to remove? Either way, I used a strap wrench (Lisle Small Oil Filter Wrench $13 amazon) from the back side and it easily broke the seal.

Note - I didn't spill a drop of oil removing the filter. I used a two zip lock bag method. After breaking the seal and loosening the filter a bit, I put the first bag on. I continued to loosen until oil started pouring out of the filter. After the oil stopped pouring out, about 1 minute, I removed the first bag. Then I slipped on the 2nd bag and finished unscrewing the filter. Once the filter came off, about 1/4 quart of oil poured from the oil filter mount. Hold the bag there for about 10 seconds to capture this oil. Then remove the bag and filter and you are good to go.

This was honestly one of the easiest oil changes I've done in a while, I think getting the motor up to temp before you perform it may help with that notoriously over-tightened factory filter. Or maybe the ape who normally installs them was off at work when my engine was being built?.

Note - The drain bolt removal and pouring on the sway bar wasn't an issue at all. Even though my oil was very thin because it was hot, it came out easily and didn't make a mess. The trick is to leave the oil fill cap on tight during the first part of the drain. This will make the oil come out slower from the oil pan. It does hit the sway bar, but that isn't a big deal. Within a minute or so, it's just drips falling straight down and into your drain pan no longer hitting the sway bar. Once it's down to a slow drip, then loosen your oil fill cap and dip stick to aid in draining.

The oil drain bolt is 13mm and the torque spec is 25 ft-lbs. The truck took exactly 7 quarts to get it just at the 2nd dot on the dip stick. I took a sample of the oil and sending to Blackstone Labs, will update when I get it.
What happened with your black stone labs results? Or did they not get back yet.
 

SD Rebel

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What happened with your black stone labs results? Or did they not get back yet.
Apparently it didn't make it to them, first time ever did I lose an oil sample, also first time I didn't bother to send it without confirmation number. I do have 5 quarts of the original drain in a container I was contemplating sending another sample from, but it didn't come from a completely clean pan, worried about inaccurate results from that.
 

JohnnyBgoode

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Apparently it didn't make it to them, first time ever did I lose an oil sample, also first time I didn't bother to send it without confirmation number. I do have 5 quarts of the original drain in a container I was contemplating sending another sample from, but it didn't come from a completely clean pan, worried about inaccurate results from that.
What’s the site and what does one learn from send a sample?
 

securityguy

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What’s the site and what does one learn from send a sample?
One will learn how your engine is wearing and what metals are found in your oil amongst other things...see the link below. Absolutely no reason to do an OA unless you are having issues or just have money to burn to tell you stuff that will have little, if any, impact on your engine. Just use a high quality synthetic oil and a high quality filter and don't even give it a second thought. Just MPO.

 

SD Rebel

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One will learn how your engine is wearing and what metals are found in your oil amongst other things...see the link below. Absolutely no reason to do an OA unless you are having issues or just have money to burn to tell you stuff that will have little, if any, impact on your engine. Just use a high quality synthetic oil and a high quality filter and don't even give it a second thought. Just MPO.

True, and this is the lab I use. Besides how your engine is wearing, they can also tell you how your oil is doing, such as additive packs are lasting under your driving conditions and duration. I was also really curious to see what type of oil was in the truck from the factory.
 

HoosierTrooper

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An inexpensive oil analysis from labs like Blackstone, Polaris and others are really limited in determining how an engine is wearing because they only "see" particle in a certain size range. The primary metals that show up in these are copper and iron. Copper is almost always from the oil cooler and isn't from "wear", it's a chemical reaction between the oil and the cooler that is usually high at first but drops as the engine breaks in. The iron could be from any number of engine components that are made of iron, none of which are identified in the analysis and could be from wear, corrosion or a chemical reaction between the oil and metal.

Used oil analysis are useful for determining if there are contaminants in the oil such as fuel, water or antifreeze, and it can also show insolubles that could show a problem in the air filtration system.

They can also measure the total base number (TBN) and the total acid number (TAN) which, if properly interpreted, can give you an idea how much life is left in the oil, or if the oil was used too long and is worn out.

UOA's are a lot of fun to look at but need to be properly interpreted, and their limitations kept in mind, in order to be useful for determining how an engine is "wearing".
 

g_svan

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Easy peasy.
Used a empty plastic bottle to cut a funnel for the drain plug problem, and used a plastic bag for the filter problem (and a few zip ties to lock them in place).
Left a few drops on the swaybar, due to bad funnel engineering, but that's about it.
Similar procedure as to the old RAM models, except for the swaybar maneuver.

IMG_20200914_101135.jpg
IMG_20200914_104200.jpg
 

securityguy

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Easy peasy.
Used a empty plastic bottle to cut a funnel for the drain plug problem, and used a plastic bag for the filter problem (and a few zip ties to lock them in place).
Left a few drops on the swaybar, due to bad funnel engineering, but that's about it.
Similar procedure as to the old RAM models, except for the swaybar maneuver.
Buy a FUMOTO VALVE my friend!
 

ram0686

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My only gripe is that the Fumoto Value threads into the drain plug hole... into the pan, and hinders a more complete draining process. Almost like it would create a lip / dam in the pan... I like knowing nothing is obstructing the draining process.... I'm getting out more oil the old way. It really isn't messy other than the sway bar getting some oil on it. Wipe up the bar. The filter on the other hand is a PITA. Just my opinion. I'm just a dude.
 

Jako

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I don't see the point. If a Fumoto valve had fixed the filter problem, sure, but the swaybar is no biggie (y)
Agree the sway bar is no biggie, but draining directly into a container versus an oil drain pan and than to a container is an appreciated avoidance. I installed the valvo max last oil change and over filled a small amount, nothing that would do harm. Curiosity got the better part of me and I drained a few ounces, easy-peasy.
 

J-Cooz

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My only gripe is that the Fumoto Value threads into the drain plug hole... into the pan, and hinders a more complete draining process. Almost like it would create a lip / dam in the pan... I like knowing nothing is obstructing the draining process.... I'm getting out more oil the old way. It really isn't messy other than the sway bar getting some oil on it. Wipe up the bar. The filter on the other hand is a PITA. Just my opinion. I'm just a dude.
The tiny amount of oil that may be left is nothing to worry about. There's plenty of oil trapped in the heads and throughout the engine that doesn't get out.
 
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