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My First Oil Change - Some Notes for those interested in trying it themselves

SD Rebel

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Got some PUP on the way deciding on what filter to pick up and i'm going to try and tackle it this weekend, hopefully it goes as smooth as yours.

Excellent!

After helping a buddy on his new RAM last week, the filter was super easy to remove as well. I think driving it until it's fully up to temp, about 200F oil temp really is the trick to getting the filter off easy.

Also, leave your oil cap and dipstick on tight during the initial drain, the oil will still come out at an easy speed, so not to make a mess. Using a large drain pan (deep not shallow type) will also help. When its just a dripping, then loosen the fill cap and dip stick to aid in draining.

Also, use the two zip lock bag method I outlined earlier, it really does mean zero drips. Once the oil filter is broken loose, you can turn it about 1/4-1/2 before oil starts coming out. Slip on the first bag, then loosen a bit more until the oil starts to come out. After about a minute, remove and slip on the 2nd bag and finish unscrewing. Remember about 1/4 quart of oil will come out when you remove the filter, so hold the bag there for several seconds to catch that. The OEM filter is 1 turn past contact to tighten, I'm sure most aftermarket will be the same.

It was rather enjoyable both times I did it recently, I'm sure you won't have any trouble.
 
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Ccm12

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Wal-Mart on a massive delay for shipping Mobil 1 oil and filters......so I wait. Though was able to submit voucher for mobile 1 $20 back.
 

2020GraniteBH

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Excellent!

After helping a buddy on his new RAM last week, the filter was super easy to remove as well. I think driving it until it's fully up to temp, about 200F oil temp really is the trick to getting the filter off easy.

Also, leave your oil cap and dipstick on tight during the initial drain, the oil will still come out at an easy speed, so not to make a mess. Using a large drain pan (deep not shallow type) will also help. When its just a dripping, then loosen the drain bolt and dip stick to aid in draining.

Also, use the two zip lock bag method I outlined earlier, it really does mean zero drips. Once the oil filter is broken loose, you can turn it about 1/4-1/2 before oil starts coming out. Slip on the first bag, then loosen a bit more until the oil starts to come out. After about a minute, remove and slip on the 2nd bag and finish unscrewing. Remember about 1/4 quart of oil will come out when you remove the filter, so hold the bag there for several seconds to catch that. The OEM filter is 1 turn past contact to tighten, I'm sure most aftermarket will be the same.

It was rather enjoyable both times I did it recently, I'm sure you won't have any trouble.
Thank you very much appreciate the advice!!
 

SD Rebel

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Man, 4700 miles in one year

I manage to drive 1-2k miles a MONTH

I'm jealous

That's what happens when you work from home even before Covid :)

Honestly, that 4,700 miles is me occasionally taking her out for joy rides. If I drove out of actual necessity, it would be a lot less than even that. I also have a wife and we usually go out in her vehicle with the kids and it's an SUV so the hatch is great for the dogs since I won't let the dogs ride in the bed for safety reason.
 

2020GraniteBH

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That's what happens when you work from home even before Covid :)

Honestly, that 4,700 miles is me occasionally taking her out for joy rides. If I drove out of actual necessity, it would be a lot less than even that. I also have a wife and we usually go out in her vehicle with the kids and it's an SUV so the hatch is great for the dogs since I won't let the dogs ride in the bed for safety reason.
Thank you someone with common sense. I hate seeing people leave their pups back there.
 

Ccm12

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2019 BigHorn 5.7 no etourqe 4x4

@SpeedyV - are you using the Fumoto hose adapter, or just attaching the hose directly to the 'rather short protruding' nipple?

@Ccm12 - FYI the nipple on the F106N is much longer, and Fumoto recommends a hose adapter for the swivel version as the nipple is so short. There is plenty of room for either version.
Is there a torque rec for the fumoto when installing or just snug?
 

Jako

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Is there a torque rec for the fumoto when installing or just snug?
Torque specs are tricky for oil drain pan plugs. Torque specs are made for clean threads and if oil is on the threads the torque specs need to be adjusted. There is a thread with info on the drain plug torque but I am unable to locate it. Don't quote me but I believe it may be 25 ft/lbs. If you see post #15 it explains the need for adjustment of torque specs. From what I can remember it appears "empirical" is the best definition of how tight to make it.
"relying on experience or observation alone often without due regard for system and theory"

 
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Jako

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25 should be fine...actually I believe it is around 18-20, but 25 won't hurt it.
I'm not questioning you but I could not find a "Ram/Mopar" source for the torque and I tend to believe this is a "no win" situation do to the residual oil on the plug which changes the torque value. Pretty hard to have an oil free drain plug assembly (male/female). My conclusion is "tight enough" and so far no problems. At age 65 I see a diminishing value on "tight enough", problem for another day.
 

SD Rebel

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They book states 25 ft-lbs, however when removing the drain bolt, my hand tells me 15-17 ft-lbs, at least how my bolt came from the factory.
 

Jako

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That is the part number of the Fumoto Valve for our truck.
Got it, Fumoto instructions show 18 ft/lbs.
Valvomax: Remove existing drain plug and washer. Clean sealing surface. position included washer onto valve and thread into port by hand tightening at first. Do not force valve into oil pan. Use a 24MM socket to tighten. Re-fill crankcase with oil and run engine for one minute. Check for leaks.
 

Jako

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They book states 25 ft-lbs, however when removing the drain bolt, my hand tells me 15-17 ft-lbs, at least how my bolt came from the factory.
What book?
I looked for a Ram/Mopar source for the oil drain plug torque (internet search) on a 2019 Ram 1500 and came up empty handed. I do not have access to the service information or service manual. Is the torque value listed in the service manual for a 2019 Ram 1500 oil drain plug bolt?

And I am thoroughly convinced that the guy who changes oil for a paycheck never uses a torque wrench.

Which brings me to lug nut torques that vary from 80 (Honda Accord), 100 (Gran Marquis) and 130 (2019 Ram 1500) in my limited experience. Seems to me it is the same impact gun used in the tire shops for all vehicles.

Thanks to all for info and feedback.
 

SD Rebel

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What book?
I looked for a Ram/Mopar source for the oil drain plug torque (internet search) on a 2019 Ram 1500 and came up empty handed. I do not have access to the service information or service manual. Is the torque value listed in the service manual for a 2019 Ram 1500 oil drain plug bolt?

And I am thoroughly convinced that the guy who changes oil for a paycheck never uses a torque wrench.

Which brings me to lug nut torques that vary from 80 (Honda Accord), 100 (Gran Marquis) and 130 (2019 Ram 1500) in my limited experience. Seems to me it is the same impact gun used in the tire shops for all vehicles.

Thanks to all for info and feedback.

Well I didn't actually see the book in question, just spoke with a RAM tech while I was at the dealership picking up my cabin air filter. I asked him what the new RAM trucks engine drain bolt toque spec was, he asked me was it a "gas or diesel?" I said it was a Hemi, he said "the book states 25 ft-lbs or 34Nm" for that motor.

He also mentions most of them don't use torque wrenches for the drain bolts, they already have the "feel". Based on my own experience, it's finger tight all the way, then another 1/16 of a turn got me 25 ft-lbs on my torque wrench.
 
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