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Looking for spare fuse slot

frisby5

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I will.probably just tap into f60 . Then maybe later run a switch into the cabin. I dont want to make this overly complicated its not critical im just changing grilles for the look ,they just happen to have lights lol
 

theblet

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I will.probably just tap into f60 . Then maybe later run a switch into the cabin. I dont want to make this overly complicated its not critical im just changing grilles for the look ,they just happen to have lights lol
I’d prob do the same. Sucks that it’s a critical fuse, but no one has had issues yet. I’d prob keep some spares in the truck just in case
 

frisby5

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I’d prob do the same. Sucks that it’s a critical fuse, but no one has had issues yet. I’d prob keep some spares in the truck just in case
I tapped into fuse F44 trailer ind light ? It works when truck is turned to mar . I dont have a trailer but there is a 10 amp fuse in the slot. So i put in a add a fuse, grill lights are working now. Heres a picture ,changed the grill and lights. Figured i would change the halogens since i had everything apart anyways lol.
 

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frisby5

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My fuse box has f44 says trailer camera. I’ll have to take a looksie and see if it has a fuse or not. Sounds like it worked out for you tho.
Yes Its the trailer camera. I didnt want to tie into anything vital like the ecm or fuel pump. I got my multi meter out and started testing fuse slots. Cant believe they didnt add more live spares.
 

theblet

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I tapped into fuse F44 trailer ind light ? It works when truck is turned to mar . I dont have a trailer but there is a 10 amp fuse in the slot. So i put in an add a fuse, grill lights are working now. Heres a picture ,changed the grill and lights. Figured i would change the halogens since i had everything apart anyways lol.
Nicely done. I don’t have a trailer camera, I’ll have to check for a fuse as well
 

JRD

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Here's a list of what i've gathered so far

On with ignition
F01 - fuel pump
F38 - Drive Train Controller Module
F44 - trailer camera (if equipped)
F60 - ECU


On with headlights
F11 - ID/Clearance Lights - If Equipped
F12 - Trailer Tow Park Lamp (tap into wire)


Tap into front marker lights (LED)
On the 16-way connector that is plugged into the driver side headlight, it is the white wire with brown stripe in position 13. On the connector that is plugged into the passenger side headlight, it is the white wire with orange stripe in position 13.
Are you aware of any way to “equip” F44 in the computer? My F44 & F37 aren’t drawing any power and I can’t power my switch pro. (don’t want to tap F60 & I’m hesitant to tap the studs because I only drive it on the weekends)

Edit: can this be added via TazerDT possibly?
 

theblet

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Are you aware of any way to “equip” F44 in the computer? My F44 & F37 aren’t drawing any power and I can’t power my switch pro. (don’t want to tap F60 & I’m hesitant to tap the studs because I only drive it on the weekends)

Edit: can this be added via TazerDT possibly?
Not sure. On my fuse box F44 isn’t even wired underneath.
 

JRD

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Not sure. On my fuse box F44 isn’t even wired underneath.
I think this is likely my issue, this is the most brain dead thing I’ve ever heard. I feel like I’m running out of options to power my switch pro. I really don’t want to tap F60
 

theblet

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I think this is likely my issue, this is the most brain dead thing I’ve ever heard. I feel like I’m running out of options to power my switch pro. I really don’t want to tap F60
How to you want it to power? A relay engaged with the ignition?
 

jimothy

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Correct, I’m running out of options it seems. I’m going to test the studs and see if any of those are off while truck is off
Can you not just rely on the low voltage disconnect, and use one of the studs (or direct to the battery, with an inline fuse)?

I assume what you’re trying to do is prevent your SwitchPros from draining the battery when your try is not running, correct?
 

Richard320

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Correct, I’m running out of options it seems. I’m going to test the studs and see if any of those are off while truck is off
Move the fuse for the 12V power outlet to battery, then stick a spade terminal into the now-vacant "run" space. An inline fuse and away you go. Unless you want the power port to be run-only. Then use a piggyback fuse tap directly on the fuse.
 

JRD

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Can you not just rely on the low voltage disconnect, and use one of the studs (or direct to the battery, with an inline fuse)?

I assume what you’re trying to do is prevent your SwitchPros from draining the battery when your try is not running, correct?
Could you explain this to me like I’m 5 lol. I am trying to keep the battery from draining because I only drive it on weekends
 

JRD

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Move the fuse for the 12V power outlet to battery, then stick a spade terminal into the now-vacant "run" space. An inline fuse and away you go. Unless you want the power port to be run-only. Then use a piggyback fuse tap directly on the fuse.
Do you know what fuse number this is? I think id prefer to tape the fuse
 

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