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Issues after jump start

RamCares

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So yes, after I charged my battery completely all is well, no issues at all. But it is veey scary to think if I evee need a jump I'll be screwed and basically need a tow. Is there any solution for this @RamCares? Or essentially us a tow the only option if your battery dies?

Hi Nowatruckguy,
As mentioned above by my colleague Mark, our team is not mechanically trained. Therefore, your dealer would be in the best place to answer this question. I apologize that we could not be of more assistance.
Alex
Ram Social Care Specialist
 

Willwork4truck

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I don't have FCA vehicle specifics for needed voltages but coming from an F150 and still owning a Ford Edge, I will tell you that many newer vehicles have some kind of "battery management system" (Fordspeak) in which the/a computer decides how much voltage/amperage is enough for the alternator to produce, how low the battery can get (voltage) before it is rendered inop (by the computer) etc.

It's not like the old days where a bare "12 volts" (even less actually) was all that was needed to operate the basic all-mechanical systems. Think about it, almost everything in your engine/transmission is now computer controlled and requires voltages with set parameters. Thus a low or "dead" battery will fail to meet those parameters and will get "blocked" until the computer senses that the voltage is acceptable. It's the price of progress.

I learned from having the 2015 F150 and still having the 2014 Edge that I have to either drive daily for about 20+ miles one way or I have to weekly put a charger on the battery (on the 2 amp setting of my 10/2 charger) overnight. This way the battery stays up voltage-wise. Doing this as well as routine driving enabled me to get 5 years out of the factory (small) Ford Edge battery which was replaced before any signs of trouble, just on age due to wife being nervous about it.

Since she doesn't drive the 19 Limited much (2x a week), I choose to put the charger on nearly weekly just to make sure. A 1-2 amp battery tender type charger would also do the same thing if plugged in daily.

All I can say is to keep yours charged up like I do, or if you have a jump pack, be prepared to jump it then let it idle for an hour while your (160-180 amp) alternator supplies the voltage needed to get it up to 70% plus state of charge. As a poster stated, it didn't need to be 100% state of charge, as long as it got into the proper parameters it would allow you to drive. The systems that shut off the accessories and lights after appx 10 minutes (perhaps programmable in your settings, IDK) should save you from having a low battery. Ford's BMS system was very intrusive, operators would get a screen message saying that non-essential electrical components were disabled until the system determined it was more fully charged. The Ford forums were full of gripes about their BMS systems.

Google "Battery Management System" and you will see many technical posts about the various manufacturers methods of controlling voltage on newer vehicles. It's NOT just a RAM issue at all. The "an ounce of prevention" saying comes to mind. Just keep the battery charged.
 

Klute

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One of the mechanics I used relayed the same information as you. He is of the opinion to replace at three years. My 2001 Dodge 1500 has a battery from Sears dated 5-13 and has started to fail - no complaints. I used to buy the best battery and things seemed to work well. Doesn't appear to work that way today. 2006 Honda Accord with an Auto Zone battery died twice within the warranty period so it was prorated and received a discount. I will not buy it again - prorated or not. Happened to my father's Interstate battery also which is supposed to be a better brand.


Most batteries are mfg'd by a couple of companies. Chances are the WalMart and AutoZone batteries came from the facility.
 

Willwork4truck

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Most batteries are mfg'd by a couple of companies. Chances are the WalMart and AutoZone batteries came from the facility.
Like tires are. There's only about two or three battery makers. I believe Johnson Controls is a big one. Likely most batteries are just re branded.
A Google search showed this: "Most aftermarket car batteries sold in the U.S. are made by three companies that build them for retailers: Johnson Controls, which supplies more than half of the market; Exide; and East Penn."
 
M

MJB4450

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Maybe it has something to do with software from other FCA vehicles. Say, if your car had auto start\stop, you wouldn't want to jump the car, drive 2 blocks just to have it turn off at a stop light stranding you in the middle of the road. But, this should be configurable per vehicle and not a blanket setting.
Stop/Start is not supossed to engage if battery voltage is low. You should get a warning on the cluster to that effect .
 
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MJB4450

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If I were younger I'd buy old vehicles and restore them. This excessive computers obsession is beyond annoying. Remember when you turned the key and the A/C blower started. Not now. It's 160 degrees in the cab and after I crank I have to wait while the computers have a staff meeting and confer with Silicon Valley as to what "on" means before the A/C finally starts blowing which is after I sweat about 3 gallons. Same with the radio. Used to be push the "on" button and instantly you have sound. Not now. Same staff meeting occurs. I've even pushed the "mute" button and after a few seconds pushed it again because it didn't mute only to discver that I hadn't waited long enough for that particular computer thought process. Yep, I miss cars without computers when everything worked in a timely manner and I could fix almost anything for a few bucks not need a month at a dealership and have to get a second mortgage.
 

Diamondback

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Computers and Modules .. sorta like your home computer when the little watch battery dies inside ...

Must run a QUICK LEARN for the PCM to tell all the modules who/what they are if the battery reached such a low voltage state..
a LOT of batteries die coming from the factory because the vehicle may have been forgotten to be placed into DELIVERY MODE to save the battery.

funny, I left my lights on earlier today because I was playing around waiting for the storm to pass and forgot to move a switch back. A co-worker said my lights were on and when I remembered to go move the switch back to its original setting, the lights had been shut of by the PCM to conserve battery.
 

Jako

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If I were younger I'd buy old vehicles and restore them. This excessive computers obsession is beyond annoying. Remember when you turned the key and the A/C blower started. Not now. It's 160 degrees in the cab and after I crank I have to wait while the computers have a staff meeting and confer with Silicon Valley as to what "on" means before the A/C finally starts blowing which is after I sweat about 3 gallons. Same with the radio. Used to be push the "on" button and instantly you have sound. Not now. Same staff meeting occurs. I've even pushed the "mute" button and after a few seconds pushed it again because it didn't mute only to discver that I hadn't waited long enough for that particular computer thought process. Yep, I miss cars without computers when everything worked in a timely manner and I could fix almost anything for a few bucks not need a month at a dealership and have to get a second mortgage.
I'm 64 and can identify with you. I have a 2001 Dodge 1500 that I thought about restoring to like new condition. There are + and - to the scenario. 2001 with 8 cyl. 230 hp vs 2019 hemi 395 hp. , but the biggest factor is the ride comfort in the 2019. I have never found the comfort level driving as I do now in the 2019 Bighorn. So far 2 recalls and 2 TSBs and 10,000+ miles (and smiles) in 10 months. The technology curve can be annoying and time consuming, thank God for the 5th Gen. forum.
2nd mortgage - yeah, not cheap. I figure I'm spending my 3 sons inheritance. If I don't they will.
 
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Willwork4truck

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Ha, we need a “5th gen for those past their own 5th gen” forum...
 

MQQSE

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Am I hearing that these trucks will not operate with a weak battery or after inadvertently running the battery low? If so, that is a HUGE oversight by FCA engineers! If you have a dead battery, you can't just jump start it and drive away like any other vehicle ever made??? I know that all vehicles have their quirks and personalities, but this is just absurd.
It's not absurd, most people just don't understand new electronic systems vs. old ones. The new electronic systems rely on steady power and the CANbus systems will not operate correctly with inadequate power. There are airbags, antilock, electric steering, transmission control computer, engine control computer... and much much more and they all compete for perfect voltage in order to work correctly. FCA is not the only manufacturer to have this issue, it's a newer vehicle system that will operate perfectly, but one of the important items is the correct voltage.
 

TWRam

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It's not absurd, most people just don't understand new electronic systems vs. old ones. The new electronic systems rely on steady power and the CANbus systems will not operate correctly with inadequate power. There are airbags, antilock, electric steering, transmission control computer, engine control computer... and much much more and they all compete for perfect voltage in order to work correctly. FCA is not the only manufacturer to have this issue, it's a newer vehicle system that will operate perfectly, but one of the important items is the correct voltage.
As an engineer who works for the largest marine engine OEM in the world and who has been in the marine/automotive engineering industry for over 15 years, I have an intimate understanding of, as you say, "new electronic systems" and it is due to this understanding that I have come to the conclusion that having a vehicle rendered inoperable after a jump start due to a weak battery is absolutely absurd. You are right, all the various systems/sensors/CAN networks/etc do need proper voltage; however, they all have that proper voltage when the engine is running, regardless of the state of the battery, as provided by the alternator/voltage regulator. The alternator in our trucks have an output capacity of 160 amps. If you could, which you can't, run every single system on this truck simultaneously, short of the starter, you would be nowhere close to consuming 160 amps. In other words, the alternator can support everything required to run the truck, even with a weak battery; however, must consider that the 160 amps is peak amps at an optimal RPM. If the available amps at lower RPMS were to drop below amp demands, system strategies can be created to focus on powering essential systems or recharging the battery quickly by limiting the A/C, blower speeds, and other power sucking non essential devices. Raising the idle RPM in times of need also has a large effect on available amps. In short, if my battery runs low and I need a jump, show me a warning saying my ABS in unavailable, significantly raise the idle RPM for extra available amps, turn off my AC, etc, but let me drive.

Edit: Thinking through this some more, we may be overlooking one critical, power hungry system. The single outlier that could potentially warrant limiting a vehicle's operation would be related to proper electronic power steering response. Some EPS systems can draw very large amounts of current and could feasibly depend on a strong battery as a reserve during events where EPS amperage spikes briefly beyond the available amps. If a battery is dead, the EPS system may not be able to give full authority in all situations. For liability reasons, the decision may have been made to render the truck inoperable until sufficient battery reserve has been obtained for full EPS response. IF that is the case, with the truck running after being jumped, the RPM should be raised to up the charging amps, all non-essential systems should be turned off except for possibly HVAC depending on ambient conditions and there should be a message screen that shows me how much time remaining until sufficient charge has been obtained and vehicle operation can be resumed. Just a theory.

Disclaimer: My opinion may be worth what you paid for it. ;)
 
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Nowatruckguy

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As an engineer who works for the largest marine engine OEM in the world and who has been in the marine/automotive engineering industry for over 15 years, I have an intimate understanding of, as you say, "new electronic systems" and it is due to this understanding that I have come to the conclusion that having a vehicle rendered inoperable after a jump start due to a weak battery is absolutely absurd. You are right, all the various systems/sensors/CAN networks/etc do need proper voltage; however, they all have that proper voltage when the engine is running, regardless of the state of the battery, as provided by the alternator/voltage regulator. The alternator in our trucks have an output capacity of 160 amps. If you could, which you can't, run every single system on this truck simultaneously, short of the starter, you would be nowhere close to consuming 160 amps. In other words, the alternator can support everything required to run the truck, even with a weak battery; however, must consider that the 160 amps is peak amps at an optimal RPM. If the available amps at lower RPMS were to drop below amp demands, system strategies can be created to focus on powering essential systems or recharging the battery quickly by limiting the A/C, blower speeds, and other power sucking non essential devices. Raising the idle RPM in times of need also has a large effect on available amps. In short, if my battery runs low and I need a jump, show me a warning saying my ABS in unavailable, significantly raise the idle RPM for extra available amps, turn off my AC, etc, but let me drive.

Edit: Thinking through this some more. The single outlier that could potentially warrant limiting a vehicle's operation would be related to proper electronic power steering response. Some EPS systems can draw very large amounts of current and could feasibly depend on a strong battery as a reserve during events where EPS amperage spikes briefly beyond the available amps. If a battery is dead, the EPS system may not be able to give full authority in all situations. For liability reasons, the decision may have been made to render the truck inoperable until sufficient battery reserve has been obtained for full EPS response. IF that is the case, with the truck running after being jumped, the RPM should be raised to up the charging amps, all non-essential systems should be turned off except for possibly HVAC depending on ambient conditions and there should be a message screen that shows me how much time remaining until sufficient charge has been obtained and vehicle operation can be resumed. Just a theory.

Disclaimer: My opinion may be worth what you paid for it. ;)

Great info, do you have an opinion on how long you think the 1500 would need to idle in order to get the battery to a functional level? Your guess seems as good as any.
 

TWRam

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Great info, do you have an opinion on how long you think the 1500 would need to idle in order to get the battery to a functional level? Your guess seems as good as any.
I have no idea unfortunately. It would all depend on the state of the battery, the rate of charge, and what variables/requirements FCA engineers use to initiate/terminate their "Weak Battery" strategy.
 

ewag

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Got my truck a fee weeks ago, love it mostly. But has anyone had issues similar to mine?

Battery dead, so I jump started it. After jump a few warnings are on( e stability control/trailer control) AND my truck won't shift out of first gear.

I let it sit for 30 mins and restarted it (no jump needed) and the same sensors warnings came on and it still won't shift out of 1st gear. Trying to figure out how to get it to the dealer.
Thank you for any help!

Sorry to hear of your problems.... I had my own last night that I'll put in a new post unless I find an extremely relevant existing post.

I read all posts in this thread but don't think I saw where you stated what caused your battery to die. Do you know?
 

Nowatruckguy

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Sorry to hear of your problems.... I had my own last night that I'll put in a new post unless I find an extremely relevant existing post.

I read all posts in this thread but don't think I saw where you stated what caused your battery to die. Do you know?
No idea, best guess is that it was on the dealer lot for 6 months before it sold, and then I was out of town for a week right after I took it home. Dealer probably had a quick charge on it and then it sat too long.
 

ewag

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No idea, best guess is that it was on the dealer lot for 6 months before it sold, and then I was out of town for a week right after I took it home. Dealer probably had a quick charge on it and then it sat too long.

Huh.

I just added my issue here.....

 

TWRam

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Since originally reading and commenting in this thread, I have come across numerous accounts of people jump starting their trucks and driving off without issue. It seems that not being able to is abnormal.
 

Neurobit

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My battery failed a couple of weeks ago and was replaced by the dealer. While the battery was bad, I carried a portable battery jump gizmo, and I've had to jump it a few times. Other than the dash codes lighting up like a Christmas tree (temporarily), no issues with shifting, etc. Once I jumped the truck, it performed as usual. Service advisor told me the codes go away after a while and they did.

Cheers,
 

MrJay6

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Put a battery charger on it, once it gets enough voltage the truck will work properly.
You still need someone to clear the codes though.

I'm brand new to the forums and just wanted to say thanks for this info. Discovered that my battery was very low/dead earlier this week and started looking online to see what it could be. Your answer led me to ordering a big enough battery charger. I still have it charging but it's almost at 100%. I'll be able to test drive tomorrow to make sure everything functions properly.
 

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