HEMI Tick Prevention

[St-na]

You think changing the oil isn't necessary?

I have explained in detail my thinking in post #14, I believe that change of oil in time is very important, but if You do it more frequently like every 1-5k miles, it will not extend the life of Your motor. Type of oil, design and condition of the engine, driving conditions, many things are to be considered. One guy posted on the Facebook the picture of the oil, drained from his truck after 3k miles, this oil was like a tar. The guy was trying to explain, that oil to be change more frequently. Yes, for him no doubt, something is definitely wrong. If the oil in my truck is in perfect condition after 5-7k miles, why do I need to change it? 10k is a limit for me.

 

[HSKR R/T]

I have explained in detail my thinking in post #14, I believe that change of oil in time is very important, but if You do it more frequently like every 1-5k miles, it will not extend the life of Your motor. Type of oil, design and condition of the engine, driving conditions, many things are to be considered. One guy posted on the Facebook the picture of the oil, drained from his truck after 3k miles, this oil was like a tar. The guy was trying to explain, that oil to be change more frequently. Yes, for him no doubt, something is definitely wrong. If the oil in my truck is in perfect condition after 5-7k miles, why do I need to change it? 10k is a limit for me.

Your comment I replied to said you felt it was not necessary and talked about oil analysis every 40-50k miles.

 

[Gearjammer]

Should have my new truck next week, looking ahead to avoiding the lifter/cam issues. I'll change it every 5000 miles. Is there a consensus on what brand is best? I'm NOT gonna spend 10 a quart so no amsoil or redline....I was thinking good ol Mobil 1...

 

[silver billet]

Should have my new truck next week, looking ahead to avoiding the lifter/cam issues. I'll change it every 5000 miles. Is there a consensus on what brand is best? I'm NOT gonna spend 10 a quart so no amsoil or redline....I was thinking good ol Mobil 1...

The consensus seems to be that redline is the best. If you're not going with the best, any brand that has the MS 6395 certification is going to be fine as they're all constrained by the limits of that certification. You get what you get and hope for the best.

I'd change it out every 5000 miles like clockwork and get a high efficiency filter like the Fram Ultra (XG2 if it fits).

 

[HSKR R/T]

The consensus seems to be that redline is the best. If you're not going with the best, any brand that has the MS 6395 certification is going to be fine as they're all constrained by the limits of that certification. You get what you get and hope for the best.

I'd change it out every 5000 miles like clockwork and get a high efficiency filter like the Fram Ultra (XG2 if it fits).

Not sure what consensus there is about Redline. Definitely haven't seen that myself

 

[silver billet]

Not sure what consensus there is about Redline. Definitely haven't seen that myself

On this forum I haven't seen much talk but on the other one you can't find an oil thread without redline being acknowledged as top tier above pretty much everything else. HPL is also on top, it's even newer, more costly, and more boutique than redline, but there is far less discussion on HPL. HPL is widely praised on BITOG as best in class too, but just as a general oil whereas redline has a long history of helping some people with the tick. HPL hasn't been in use long enough for that history to be there but the ingredients are all incredible, it certainly has a much longer drain interval than redline and its ability to clean the internals is phenomenal. I think wwilson on bitog is past 20,000 miles on his pentastar running HPL (without changing it, just the filters) and he's done UOA's along the way, that oil holds up so well and his internals look brand new; not a hint of carbon or varnish in sight.

 

[silver billet]

Here's a great read, I thought the mileage was higher but maybe I'm confusing him with someone else.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/under-valve-cover-pictures-2014-dodge-durango-164-000-miles-total-52-000-miles-on-hpl-hdeo-5w-20.374342/

 

[HSKR R/T]

On this forum I haven't seen much talk but on the other one you can't find an oil thread without redline being acknowledged as top tier above pretty much everything else. HPL is also on top, it's even newer, more costly, and more boutique than redline, but there is far less discussion on HPL. HPL is widely praised on BITOG as best in class too, but just as a general oil whereas redline has a long history of helping some people with the tick. HPL hasn't been in use long enough for that history to be there but the ingredients are all incredible, it certainly has a much longer drain interval than redline and its ability to clean the internals is phenomenal. I think wwilson on bitog is past 20,000 miles on his pentastar running HPL (without changing it, just the filters) and he's done UOA's along the way, that oil holds up so well and his internals look brand new; not a hint of carbon or varnish in sight.

Unless Redline has changed their formula, about 15 years ago it had higher wear metals than other oils. It was a "racing" oil that wasn't meant for extended drain intervals. And that was basically anything past 3k miles. Which I guess, over 15 years they probably have. I have no idea what this "other" forum everyone talks about is. But in my 20+ years on internet automotive communities, there always seems to be a "consensus" on one forum that didn't carry over to other forums about different things. Be it custom tuning, oil, best vendor, tire brand........ Just because one group gets behind something doesn't mean it's actually the best. Or at least try best for everyone

 

[silver billet]

Unless Redline has changed their formula, about 15 years ago it had higher wear metals than other oils. It was a "racing" oil that wasn't meant for extended drain intervals. And that was basically anything past 3k miles. Which I guess, over 15 years they probably have. I have no idea what this "other" forum everyone talks about is. But in my 20+ years on internet automotive communities, there always seems to be a "consensus" on one forum that didn't carry over to other forums about different things. Be it custom tuning, oil, best vendor, tire brand........ Just because one group gets behind something doesn't mean it's actually the best. Or at least try best for everyone

Redline doesn't cause higher wear, despite some wear numbers being higher. In hemi's the copper can be higher, that's because the copper leaches out through chelation, not wear. If you dropped a penny in jar of highly polar ester and heat it, there would be no abrasion or wear but you'd find a few PPM higher copper due to this. Aluminum can be higher because of the high concentration of moly (which is a friction modifier, a good thing), aluminum is part of the raw material for that source of moly.

HPL sees higher copper PPM as well due to the same reason, it's not an issue.

 

[HSKR R/T]

Redline doesn't cause higher wear, despite some wear numbers being higher. In hemi's the copper can be higher, that's because the copper leaches out through chelation, not wear. If you dropped a penny in jar of highly polar ester and heat it, there would be no abrasion or wear but you'd find a few PPM higher copper due to this. Aluminum can be higher because of the high concentration of moly (which is a friction modifier, a good thing), aluminum is part of the raw material for that source of moly.

HPL sees higher copper PPM as well due to the same reason, it's not an issue.

I can't find any molybdenum that contains aluminum. Especially not for use in engine oil. I stopped following BITOG many years ago. Lots of "experts" who are never wrong, and will come up with excuses to say why their preferred oil has certain characteristics that normally wouldn't be ideal.

 

[silver billet]

I can't find any molybdenum that contains aluminum. Especially not for use in engine oil. I stopped following BITOG many years ago. Lots of "experts" who are never wrong, and will come up with excuses to say why their preferred oil has certain characteristics that normally wouldn't be ideal.

Straight from the mouth of the HPL CEO:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/high-performance-lubricants-diesel-pdss.344424/page-2#post-5857479

I get it, you're never wrong. But anyone else reading this thread should definitely check out HPL if they want a best in class oil.

 

[HSKR R/T]

Straight from the mouth of the HPL CEO:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/high-performance-lubricants-diesel-pdss.344424/page-2#post-5857479

I get it, you're never wrong. But anyone else reading this thread should definitely check out HPL if they want a best in class oil.

I admit when I'm wrong. But also am not afraid to call others out when I feel they are wrong. The molybdenum used in oils doesnt contain aluminum from my research.

 

[St-na]

Just wandering what is wrong with the oils recommended by Mopar. I was strictly using Maker's recommended oil for any kind of engine or equipment. Are we trying to find better than best recommended by Mopar oil?

 

[kdoublep]

I thought redline was used once the lifter tick appears?

I run PUP 5W30 with lubegard. I ran 5w20 with lubegard until warranty expired.

I do not have lifter tick but pretty sure I got an exhaust leak on passenger manifold. I'm at 65K.

 

[uncc_99xj]

Should have my new truck next week, looking ahead to avoiding the lifter/cam issues. I'll change it every 5000 miles. Is there a consensus on what brand is best? I'm NOT gonna spend 10 a quart so no amsoil or redline....I was thinking good ol Mobil 1...

I’ve used Mobil 1 for years and have had no issues. Costco and Sam’s both put the 6 quart boxes on sale every couple of months for $33, so I’ll stock up then.