Has Anyone Try 2019 RAM Retrofit Headlights?

[blownout1500]

Which brand bulbs did you buy. And what extras did you need to make them error free

It’s here in this the thread I also ordered the can bus thingy for the low beams

 

[blownout1500]

Trying to see what route Blownout1500 went when he did his truck

If I had to do over, I honestly might remove the entire headlight assemblies so I could properly cut & re-seal the dust caps. You just can’t access or even see what your doing otherwise.

If your not into removing headlight assemblies, I’d at least recommend the following setup:

Low beams:

1) get the front of the truck up on a floor jack / jack stands and remove both front wheels

2) completely remove both wheel well liners

3) purchase zip tie anchors with gnarly adhesive bases (or maybe just some super gooey double stick mounting tape)

High beams:

Easier access, but will need zip tie anchors with gnarly adhesive bases or maybe just some super gooey double stick mounting tape.

 

[blownout1500]

Changing them wasn’t the easiest thing in the world. I took the fender liner pretty much completely off so I didn’t have to fight that. I did mention a bit back about the dust cover and the extra wiring. As for the dust cover I just covered the drill hole with tape so nothing got inside. I did not mention tho for the ballast(or resistor) that’s dangling that I used a zip tie to strap it down so it wouldn’t just fling around while driving.

I think knowing that I’d be basically removing the wheel well liner would have set me up for success. I’ll blame FCA for that one - user manual shows that you utilize a special little hatch in the wheel well plastics to access low beam bulb. LOL that hatch doesn’t exist at all. I had to cut a chunk out of the plastics to get my ape arm up in there.

 

[Bram2019]

I think knowing that I’d be basically removing the wheel well liner would have set me up for success. I’ll blame FCA for that one - user manual shows that you utilize a special little hatch in the wheel well plastics to access low beam bulb. LOL that hatch doesn’t exist at all. I had to cut a chunk out of the plastics to get my ape arm up in there.

To listen to the video on headlight revolution, they tell you to shove everything in the headlamp assembly. That is a lot of stuff to force in there. Amazon has deep rubber extension covers for the headlamps. If I do this I am buying those covers and cutting those. The hatch hole was on the gen 4 tracks with a plastic cover on the shield. They eliminated it. This whole thing right now seems like a pain in the butt. Maybe a better solution coming.

 

[blownout1500]

To listen to the video on headlight revolution, they tell you to shove everything in the headlamp assembly. That is a lot of stuff to force in there. Amazon has deep rubber extension covers for the headlamps. If I do this I am buying those covers and cutting those. The hatch hole was on the gen 4 tracks with a plastic cover on the shield. They eliminated it. This whole thing right now seems like a pain in the butt. Maybe a better solution coming.

Lol you’re way ahead of me... I didn’t know there was a video!

Your strategy of stuffing the hardware & wiring in there sounds legit for the lows (there is a cavity that might hold them). I don’t know how you’d keep em from knocking around though... maybe the double stick tape strategy??

Again, for the lows it’s all basically by feel cause you can’t see your hand up in there. For the highs you can see what you’re doing but there’s no cavity for the hardware on those... no way around the hole in the dust cover.

If you can get the hardware/wires in the cavity (without bouncing around) it sounds like a more legit setup that would make me feel better about the whole deal overall. The thing to keep in mind when stuffing wires/hardware in there is that the cooling fan blades are exposed - you don’t want to obstruct them.

Good luck and let us know how it goes!

FYI The lights are super bright and the hardware works, so it’s worth the headache (or at least some headache) to finesse it.

 

[blownout1500]

To listen to the video on headlight revolution, they tell you to shove everything in the headlamp assembly. That is a lot of stuff to force in there. Amazon has deep rubber extension covers for the headlamps. If I do this I am buying those covers and cutting those. The hatch hole was on the gen 4 tracks with a plastic cover on the shield. They eliminated it. This whole thing right now seems like a pain in the butt. Maybe a better solution coming.

Just watched the video:

https://headlightrevolution.com/2019-ram-low-beam-led-headlight-bulbs-supernova-v-4/

I might try to push the hardware into the housing like they say. If it works I’ll order new caps.

EDIT:

It works, just gently cram the wires/hardware in there. I re-did both highs and lows - it’s a much cleaner setup without wires hanging out. I’ll be ordering new OEM dust caps (the holes I put in my caps are just taped up for now).

FYI - no need for larger dust caps. It all fits (awkwardly, but it fits). You won’t really benefit from extra room behind the end of the bulb/fan because anything sitting between Cap & fan will bind up the fan. Just cram away around the socket.

 

[YoAdrian]

Just watched the video:

https://headlightrevolution.com/2019-ram-low-beam-led-headlight-bulbs-supernova-v-4/

I might try to push the hardware into the housing like they say. If it works I’ll order new caps.

EDIT:

It works, just gently cram the wires/hardware in there. I re-did both highs and lows - it’s a much cleaner setup without wires hanging out. I’ll be ordering new OEM dust caps (the holes I put in my caps are just taped up for now).

FYI - no need for larger dust caps. It all fits (awkwardly, but it fits). You won’t really benefit from extra room behind the end of the bulb/fan because anything sitting between Cap & fan will bind up the fan. Just cram away around the socket.

I am about to do this today. Descriptions, advice, and pictures are all helpful so thanks to all who have contirbuted so far!

I’m wanting to do this without removing wheels or liners like they say in the video. In your opinion, do you think this is feasible?

 

[19North5.7]

He said he ordered those headlight revolution ones. He was asking me questions about it at the beginning of this thread and then he said he ordered them. Not trying to be the person to talk for him but I’m assuming you would like a quick answer. Lol

Headlight revolution has an install video for the Supernova v.4 led bulbs & did not have to remove number or trim dust covers.

 

[19North5.7]

Headlight revolution has an install video for the Supernova v.4 led bulbs & did not have to remove number or trim dust covers.

Sorry just saw post above

 

[blownout1500]

I am about to do this today. Descriptions, advice, and pictures are all helpful so thanks to all who have contirbuted so far!

I’m wanting to do this without removing wheels or liners like they say in the video. In your opinion, do you think this is feasible?

Lol there’s only one guy I know with small enough hands for the job...

Seriously though, my hands were too big to for that route but you might be able to do it. Worth a shot

 

[Bram2019]

Did you think the modules ran hot enough to burn your hands. Worried if inside the headlamp if it would melt the plastic. My guess is no but you are one of the few that did the install.

 

[YoAdrian]

Lol there’s only one guy I know with small enough hands for the job...

Seriously though, my hands were too big to for that route but you might be able to do it. Worth a shot

Easy now! So I understand @blownout1500 you installed both low and high beam bulbs (including the PWM box in with the lows), but did you do it by following the video and just going in from above, or did you go in through the wheelwell liners?

 

[blownout1500]

Easy now! So I understand @blownout1500 you installed both low and high beam bulbs (including the PWM box in with the lows), but did you do it by following the video and just going in from above, or did you go in through the wheelwell liners?

High beams via engine bay (pretty accessible, you don’t need to move anything).

Low beams (including PWN(?) box) via wheel wells. I tried what’s shown in video but my big mitts still didn’t fit (even after moving stuff out of the way as shown). I don’t know how the headlight revolution guys managed it, but wheel well worked fine.

 

[blownout1500]

Did you think the modules ran hot enough to burn your hands. Worried if inside the headlamp if it would melt the plastic. My guess is no but you are one of the few that did the install.

If you watch that video, the guys who sell these say to put them right in the headlight cavity. I hadn’t seen that until yesterday, so I redid my install accordingly. It’s a tight enough fit that I can’t see them moving around and causing trouble - they are jammed in pretty tight.

 

[YoAdrian]

I am about to do this today. Descriptions, advice, and pictures are all helpful so thanks to all who have contirbuted so far!

I’m wanting to do this without removing wheels or liners like they say in the video. In your opinion, do you think this is feasible?

Ok, I installed the HeadlightRevolution Supernova v4 low beam (w pwm) and high beam, as well as the backup light bulbs. I had previously replaced the bed lights w/ leds off Amazon.

Installation notes:
- Note that the low beams are the outer lights, and are therefore more difficult to get in there. The two have different sized locking pins so you shouldn’t mix them up.
- Despite the HeadlightRevolution website video claiming you can install them by just removing the airbox or the ground wires (depending on the side), I found on both sides removal/bending back of the front portion of the wheelwell covers was also required to get my hand in there from below/behind, get a good grip on things, and get the job done right. Even then it was a squeeze at times. The push fasteners are TIGHT so get a proper puller tool for them. Or be ready to buy new ones like I need to now.
- I had to use the included allan wrench to adjust / rotate the led bulbs all four times to opimize the beam pattern.
- I had to work through positive vs negative on a couple connections because they weren’t labeled consistently and appear to plug in either way. Lights work so must have gotten it right, or the regulators make it not matter.
- Stuffing the regulator, then pwm box (low beam only), then bulb last in sequence worked to fit everything inside the stock dust cover without anything laying on the cooling fins.
- The bulb fans are inaudible when the engine is running.
- UPDATE: Lights tested, absolutely love them. So so much brighter than the stock headlights (which weren’t horrible, just kind of brown). Certainly a pure white vice warm, but not blue either - good and neutral. Recommended upgrade, and glad I spent the money to do both.

Regarding the HeadlightRevolution backup lights... I don’t recommend them for the price. $79 for the pair, and though install was simple and they are nice and bright, the “universal” grommet just doesn’t fit very snugly, and I’m worried water and dirt is going to get in the tail light. It will also rotate freely (does not lock in), so will likely cast a weird beam pattern after vibrating around a while. I would look for cheaper replacements if I could do it over again.

 

[Bram2019]

Ok, I installed the HeadlightRevolution Supernova v4 low beam (w pwm) and high beam, as well as the backup light bulbs. I had previously replaced the bed lights w/ leds off Amazon.

Installation notes:
- Note that the low beams are the outer lights, and are therefore more difficult to get in there. The two have different sized locking pins so you shouldn’t mix them up.
- Despite the HeadlightRevolution website video claiming you can install them by just removing the airbox or the ground wires (depending on the side), I found on both sides removal/bending back of the front portion of the wheelwell covers was also required to get my hand in there from below/behind, get a good grip on things, and get the job done right. Even then it was a squeeze at times. The push fasteners are TIGHT so get a proper puller tool for them. Or be ready to buy new ones like I need to now.
- I had to use the included allan wrench to adjust / rotate the led bulbs all four times to opimize the beam pattern.
- I had to work through positive vs negative on a couple connections because they weren’t labeled consistently and appear to plug in either way. Lights work so must have gotten it right, or the regulators make it not matter.
- Stuffing the regulator, then pwm box (low beam only), then bulb last in sequence worked to fit everything inside the stock dust cover without anything laying on the cooling fins.
- The bulb fans are inaudible when the engine is running.
- UPDATE: Lights tested, absolutely love them. So so much brighter than the stock headlights (which weren’t horrible, just kind of brown). Certainly a pure white vice warm, but not blue either - good and neutral. Recommended upgrade, and glad I spent the money to do both.

Regarding the HeadlightRevolution backup lights... I don’t recommend them for the price. $79 for the pair, and though install was simple and they are nice and bright, the “universal” grommet just doesn’t fit very snugly, and I’m worried water and dirt is going to get in the tail light. It will also rotate freely (does not lock in), so will likely cast a weird beam pattern after vibrating around a while. I would look for cheaper replacements if I could do it over again.

So you did not need the pwm box for the high beams. Did you stuff the regulator for the high beam in the headlamp.

 

[YoAdrian]

So you did not need the pwm box for the high beams. Did you stuff the regulator for the high beam in the headlamp.

Yep the high beams are working without a PWM box. I don't know why the lows need one and the highs don't but whatever. Yes, with some "Tetris" like work it all fit in there.

 

[Bram2019]

Yep the high beams are working without a PWM box. I don't know why the lows need one and the highs don't but whatever. Yes, with some "Tetris" like work it all fit in there.

Makes me wonder if the low beams would also work without the pwm. Unless because the daytime running light would cause a problem.

 

[YoAdrian]

Makes me wonder if the low beams would also work without the pwm. Unless because the daytime running light would cause a problem.

A good question for the HeadlightRevolution folks. I plugged in the low beam briefly without the PWM box and it lit up ok, no warnings. Installed it for good measure.

 

[JDiMassa8]

When I plugged in my low beams without the PWM my lights worked fine and no warnings neither but I ended up installing them so I didn’t have issues down the road. I installed some switchback led turn signals on my truck as well. I needed up getting resistors for them because I figured it would give me a warning on the dash for them. I installed the lights without resistors to make sure the bulbs were right and nothing came up on the dash when using them. So I didn’t install the resistors at all and went a week without them and finally a warning came on so now I gotta do that.