Hard-wire Dash Cam Install

[ExcursionDiesel]

I run the Viofo A129. Forward cam gets power from under the steering wheel - the rear cam gets power from the front cam. I've got the cable going in the headliner around the passenger side of the truck.

Same here. It's an awesome setup if you can Fab a bracket for the rear cam. I bent a 2" x 1/8" aluminum strip with pliers to make a mount. The sliding back glass prevents attachment to the window.

 

[firecadet613]

Same here. It's an awesome setup if you can Fab a bracket for the rear cam. I bent a 2" x 1/8" aluminum strip with pliers to make a mount. The sliding back glass prevents attachment to the window.

I started to go that route but with an 18 month old sitting there, went away from it. Mounting it to the passenger side of the sliding window on the back glass still allows pretty good coverage.

 

[sticker500]

I actually installed mine to the sliding glass, because I never use it and wish I didn't have it. If someone accidentally open it (dealer) then I will deal with it.

 

[firecadet613]

I actually installed mine to the sliding glass, because I never use it and wish I didn't have it. If someone accidentally open it (dealer) then I will deal with it.

You could probably leave a foot or so of slack in the cable and tuck it right above the camera.

 

[ExcursionDiesel]

Here's my rear cam with headliner mounted custom bracket. I need to paint it black.

 

[cbpickering]

Here's my rear cam with headliner mounted custom bracket. I need to paint it black.

Great idea. I think I'll do this too to get it centered.


Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

 

[firecadet613]

Great idea. I think I'll do this too to get it centered.


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Keep in mind you've got airbags up there and anyone sitting there could get hit.

 

[Tedscanoe]

Fantastic info all around and really appreciated.
Interesting about the airbags. According to the ramtruck website there are 6 airbags -- the standard 2 up front and 2 along each side about where the headliner meets the side for head and rollover protection. So no airbags in the front window pillars. But, as firecadet613 says, stuffing wires up and in there alongside 2 airbags might be a problem if these airbags ever go off. I'd hate for my front to back wire to interfere with the effectiveness of an exploding airbag. So the rear camera may take a bit of thinking.
Anyway time to get to work. Since I had an old 12v socket kicking around and the camera came with a usb plug-in, wiring to the fusebox should be really straight forward. As I live on a fairly busy street, I'll disable movement on the front camera but leave the G sensor on and for the back camera - overlooking the bed and spare tire, I'll activate movement and G sensor. I'll plug them both into fuse outlet F33 constant with a 5amp fuse. I figure that with a 730amp battery and the occasional, if any, camera activation at 2amps, killing the battery shouldn't be a problem.
Big thanks again everybody. The help I keep getting on this site is absolutely phenomenal.

 

[firecadet613]

Fantastic info all around and really appreciated.
Interesting about the airbags. According to the ramtruck website there are 6 airbags -- the standard 2 up front and 2 along each side about where the headliner meets the side for head and rollover protection. So no airbags in the front window pillars.

There are airbags in the front air pillars. I've seen them. Tuck the cable in behind them and no issue. On the rear cam, barely tuck the cable in the headliner and it'll be a non issue if they deploy, especially with the cam stuck to the rear glass. That aluminum would become a flying projectile though.

 

[Tedscanoe]

Ouch on those front pillars and big time thanks as I was just about to loosen them for wire placement and not pay too much attention to what I was doing. Hell, it's raining like hell now so I'll wait until tomorrow and good daylight before touching anything. Cheers, Ted

 

[firecadet613]

Ouch on those front pillars and big time thanks as I was just about to loosen them for wire placement and not pay too much attention to what I was doing. Hell, it's raining like hell now so I'll wait until tomorrow and good daylight before touching anything. Cheers, Ted

They are tucked in very nice. Remove the two bolts and the trim is off with no issues. Just like on the F150s.

 

[Neurobit]

These are 2 I used for mine. The top is always on.

View attachment 15179

great pic. Thanks.
Are those mini size fuses, or medium?

Thanks,

 

[Briencrotty]

great pic. Thanks.
Are those mini size fuses, or medium?

Thanks,

They are Micro

 

[Briencrotty]

great pic. Thanks.
Are those mini size fuses, or medium?

Thanks,

So if you're going to use fuse taps (add-a-circuit), then these are the right ones to order:

Amazon.com: Uriveusa 12V Car Add-A-Circuit Fuse TAP Adapter Fuse Holder with 10A, 20A Fuse [Upgraded Fuses] - (2 Pack) (Micro2 Fuse): Automotive

Buy Uriveusa 12V Car Add-A-Circuit Fuse TAP Adapter Fuse Holder with 10A, 20A Fuse [Upgraded Fuses] - (2 Pack) (Micro2 Fuse): Fuses - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

B

 

[Neurobit]

So if you're going to use fuse taps (add-a-circuit), then these are the right ones to order:

Amazon.com: Uriveusa 12V Car Add-A-Circuit Fuse TAP Adapter Fuse Holder with 10A, 20A Fuse [Upgraded Fuses] - (2 Pack) (Micro2 Fuse): Automotive

Buy Uriveusa 12V Car Add-A-Circuit Fuse TAP Adapter Fuse Holder with 10A, 20A Fuse [Upgraded Fuses] - (2 Pack) (Micro2 Fuse): Fuses - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

B

Awesome. Thanks for the prompt reply.

 

[Briencrotty]

Awesome. Thanks for the prompt reply.

No sweat.

I ordered two of them since I was installing the Blackvue Power Magic Pro (which turns the camera off when the truck is parked if the battery depletes to a particular voltage). Frustratingly, I wired it all up (it requires both accessory power and constant power), only to find that the Power Magic Pro module itself was bad. Absolute garbage, unfortunately. Despite having support hours on Saturday, Blackvue support was not available at all during the entire day, so I ordered another one while I return the first. Seems a good number of people are having that thing show up DOA. Since the customer support from Blackvue sucks, I'm stuck trying a second one to see if I get one that actually works. Ugh.

B

 

[Neurobit]

No sweat.

I ordered two of them since I was installing the Blackvue Power Magic Pro (which turns the camera off when the truck is parked if the battery depletes to a particular voltage). Frustratingly, I wired it all up (it requires both accessory power and constant power), only to find that the Power Magic Pro module itself was bad. Absolute garbage, unfortunately. Despite having support hours on Saturday, Blackvue support was not available at all during the entire day, so I ordered another one while I return the first. Seems a good number of people are having that thing show up DOA. Since the customer support from Blackvue sucks, I'm stuck trying a second one to see if I get one that actually works. Ugh.

B

Sorry to hear.
I am about to order the Viofo A129, along with the wiring kit and need two taps as well (for both acc and always-on). I thought the fuses were micro but wanted to make sure instead of finding out I bought the wrong size and having to put the install on hold.

I believe I will be using same as mentioned here, F33 (always on) and F66 (ACC). Is that the route you took?

 

[Briencrotty]

Sorry to hear.
I am about to order the Viofo A129, along with the wiring kit and need two taps as well (for both acc and always-on). I thought the fuses were micro but wanted to make sure instead of finding out I bought the wrong size and having to put the install on hold.

I believe I will be using same as mentioned here, F33 (always on) and F66 (ACC). Is that the route you took?

I actually ended up using a different one for accessory power because the fuses located just above 66 (56, 57, 58) interfered with the fuse tap seating all the way into the slot for 66. I just poked around with a multimeter to test which ones were constant/ignition/accessory power and which ones were constant, then looked up what each one was for to make sure adding an amp of load wouldn't cause a major problem.

If you have a multimeter with nice sharp probes, you certainly don't have to take the fuse out to test them. On the top of each fuse (where it says 10, 15, 20, etc.), there are two tiny indents where you can touch your multimeter to the fuse and see whether it's powered (just ground your black lead to ground somewhere on the truck). Makes it very easy to test fuses quickly. I stuck my black lead up into he middle of the spring that's above the fusebox so I didn't have to hold it in place, then used the red lead to probe each fuse to determine if it was constant, accessory, or ignition power.

B

 

[Neurobit]

I actually ended up using a different one for accessory power because the fuses located just above 66 (56, 57, 58) interfered with the fuse tap seating all the way into the slot for 66. I just poked around with a multimeter to test which ones were constant/ignition/accessory power and which ones were constant, then looked up what each one was for to make sure adding an amp of load wouldn't cause a major problem.

If you have a multimeter with nice sharp probes, you certainly don't have to take the fuse out to test them. On the top of each fuse (where it says 10, 15, 20, etc.), there are two tiny indents where you can touch your multimeter to the fuse and see whether it's powered (just ground your black lead to ground somewhere on the truck). Makes it very easy to test fuses quickly. I stuck my black lead up into he middle of the spring that's above the fusebox so I didn't have to hold it in place, then used the red lead to probe each fuse to determine if it was constant, accessory, or ignition power.

B

Thanks. Yeah, that's how I test fuses also. Much better than removing ea. one.

 

[Neurobit]

The taps I bought worked fine for me on 66 & 33.
I'll post pics when I finish the install tonight.