Hard-wire Dash Cam Install

[firecadet613]

I did that and the manual kinda pisses me off. It has a list of fuses but not a map of the locations on the box. And at 50 YO I'm too f******g old to see the tiny raised dimples that pretend to be numbers.

I'm 33 and it was a PITA to see! If i remember right, i counted from the side to find the right one.

Fire, when I removed the pannel below the steering column I found the fuse box (eternally grateful for your post) but no lid on it with the fuse layout. Ergo, no guide to which fuse is which. Using your step by step will work for me (thank you again) although I'm using a micro add-a-fuse connector. So, if this is a noob question please forgive. How did you know that fuse name was in that location? I can't find a schematic for that block anywhere. The owners manual lists them, but doesn't show whre those positions are in the box.

Hmmm....i thought it did. Maybe not. They should be numbered?

 

[firecadet613]

Simple solution to the battery concern would be to wire up a small, rechargeable AGM with isolator. Back in the day, you could buy a drop in from Directed, but you make need to build one off a trailer breakaway battery kit. Easy to do, won't jeopardize your starting battery, and your camera can remain on.

Do tell more! I've had a dash cam with a built in battery and it didn't last more than a few months before the battery was going out. Have one with a built in capacitator now and since the Ram is no longer my daily driver the time/date always resets.

 

[CRH]

I'm 33 and it was a PITA to see! If i remember right, i counted from the side to find the right one.



Hmmm....i thought it did. Maybe not. They should be numbered?

Nope, no lid on the box. No schematic. No nothing. How did you know that fuse was "the one". There are several 10 amp fuses in there and no markings anywhere that I could see or find. Just curious at this point since my dashcam (Streeet Guardian) is up and running. Thanks again

 

[CRH]

Nope, no lid on the box. No schematic. No nothing. How did you know that fuse was "the one". There are several 10 amp fuses in there and no markings anywhere that I could see or find. Just curious at this point since my dashcam (Streeet Guardian) is up and running. Thanks again

I'm 33 and it was a PITA to see! If i remember right, i counted from the side to find the right one.

That's about the age I started loosing focus....eat more carrots. I have to go back in there to install an accessory fuse box so I'll look again...this time with a jewlers magnifier.


Hmmm....i thought it did. Maybe not. They should be numbered?

Nope, no lid on the box. No schematic. No nothing. How did you know that fuse was "the one". There are several 10 amp fuses in there and no markings anywhere that I could see or find. Just curious at this point since my dashcam (Streeet Guardian) is up and running. Thanks again

 

[firecadet613]

Nope, no lid on the box. No schematic. No nothing. How did you know that fuse was "the one". There are several 10 amp fuses in there and no markings anywhere that I could see or find. Just curious at this point since my dashcam (Streeet Guardian) is up and running. Thanks again

It's been a few months, but someone on here had a membership to get the tech manuals for the Ram. He might have pulled a page for me? I've been down this road with my '14 and '16 F150 before.... hard wiring a dash cam is nothing new for me.

***No manual was pulled - I don't have a file saved with it***

 

[firecadet613]

It's been a few months, but someone on here had a membership to get the tech manuals for the Ram. He might have pulled a page for me? I've been down this road with my '14 and '16 F150 before.... hard wiring a dash cam is nothing new for me.

***No manual was pulled - I don't have a file saved with it***

Page 450-458 of the full owners manual shows fuse descriptions for both the under hood and under dash fuse panel.

 

[sticker500]

These are 2 I used for mine. The top is always on.

 

[geotex1]

Do tell more! I've had a dash cam with a built in battery and it didn't last more than a few months before the battery was going out. Have one with a built in capacitator now and since the Ram is no longer my daily driver the time/date always resets.

Short of it: Tekonska, Bargmann, Curt, Hopkins, and others make breakaway battery kits. You'll want to buy a kit with the charger (have to limit the small cells to trickle charge or they'll pop). You'll see they come in various capacities and physical sizes with their own battery boxes in various mounting configuration. Easily mounted under hood, under dash, dead space in console or under seat. These are sealed batteries so no concern about venting. Cost range $35-60. Out of the kit, you'll have no need for the breakaway switch. The other thing you need to buy is a solenoid isolator so that you charge the aux battery only when the truck is running. There's no need for an expensive, unreliable diode isolator for this. Wiring up is also very simple. If you go this route, I can help guide you with more specifics. I have wired so many multiple battery configuration in my life between alarm installations, solar installation, RVs and campers, trailers, and more than 2 dozen off-road vehicles with batteries to weld, winch, and illuminate that my head spins thinking about it!

 

[sticker500]

Short of it: Tekonska, Bargmann, Curt, Hopkins, and others make breakaway battery kits. You'll want to buy a kit with the charger (have to limit the small cells to trickle charge or they'll pop). You'll see they come in various capacities and physical sizes with their own battery boxes in various mounting configuration. Easily mounted under hood, under dash, dead space in console or under seat. These are sealed batteries so no concern about venting. Cost range $35-60. Out of the kit, you'll have no need for the breakaway switch. The other thing you need to buy is a solenoid isolator so that you charge the aux battery only when the truck is running. There's no need for an expensive, unreliable diode isolator for this. Wiring up is also very simple. If you go this route, I can help guide you with more specifics. I have wired so many multiple battery configuration in my life between alarm installations, solar installation, RVs and campers, trailers, and more than 2 dozen off-road vehicles with batteries to weld, winch, and illuminate that my head spins thinking about it!

Coincidentally I was looking again today for a solution to run my dash cam for 7 days in parking mode. What do you think of this? The camera draws Avg. 380 mA (4.56 W at 12 V

I am running mine with a PowerMagic Pro and may get 14 hours before it shuts off to prevent me from starting vehicle.

 

[ExcursionDiesel]

Tiny rasied dimples? There are tiny raised dimples on the board by each fuse? Spy I'm 63 so just seeing the Amps on the fuse is a stretch, lol! Did you ever find a schematic?

I have old eyes. Took a pic of the fuse box and zoomed in when viewing. Problem solved.

 

[Neurobit]

Here you go guys.

Cheers,

 

[firecadet613]

Here you go guys.

Cheers,

Thanks!

It's also broken down in the 500+ page owners manual. If you don't have one, call RAM and have them send you one.

 

[@733]

I wasn't interested in having my dashcam run 24/7. Only wanted it while driving. Have the Escort M1 dashcam, mounted on a BlendMount support. Used a MirrorTap for power, so the dashcam only operates when the power mirror does (ignition on, ACC on, etc.). Clean and efficient, with no wires hanging in my face. The Escort M1 is designed to work in conjunction with a radar detector, and I do not have a radar detector presently (usually drive conservatively) but may purchase one some time in the future. The additional wire coming out of the side of the dashcam (shown hanging loose in the second picture) is the factory supplied power source for the future detector. The power goes through the camera and into the detector. I just have the short detector power cord tied/tucked up out of the way for the time being.

 

[geotex1]

I wasn't interested in having my dashcam run 24/7. Only wanted it while driving. Have the Escort M1 dashcam, mounted on a BlendMount support. Used a MirrorTap for power, so the dashcam only operates when the power mirror does (ignition on, ACC on, etc.). Clean and efficient, with no wires hanging in my face. The Escort M1 is designed to work in conjunction with a radar detector, and I do not have a radar detector presently (usually drive conservatively) but may purchase one some time in the future. The additional wire coming out of the side of the dashcam (shown hanging loose in the second picture) is the factory supplied power source for the future detector. The power goes through the camera and into the detector. I just have the short detector power cord tied/tucked up out of the way for the time being.
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View attachment 15328

Clean install. Too bad there's nothing rear facing. Rear hits are apparently the most contentious and most frequent hit and runs per the insurance stats. If I could get clean looking front and rear facing, I'd install. If only the 1500s had the cargo cams...

 

[Adrianp89]

I went with the ThinkWire 205 dual set-up. I will have to grab pictures, I grabbed 12v from behind radio and ACC from cig plug on top of dash bezel.

 

[SPYvSPY]

Thanks!

It's also broken down in the 500+ page owners manual. If you don't have one, call RAM and have them send you one.

I don’t want a list of the fuses, I want a friggin diagram of the fuse box with a clear, easy to read number that I can the reference in the provided list. Also, in “the good old days” there were actually fuse locations that were already wired for ACC and 12v so we could actually just plug **** in without worrying about what electronic system we were going muck up by adding a little xtra current draw to the circuit. May just have to add a marine accessories fuse box down there somewhere and run it strait to the batter.


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[JK47TheWeapon]

I'll be upgrading my old cig adapter powered A119 dashcam to the duo A129 which I'll hardwire. I am still waiting for my add-a-fuse taps.

For those that installed with the HK3 ACC hardwire kit, where did you connect the ground near the fusebox? Have a pic?

 

[Patsy1099]

I'll be upgrading my old cig adapter powered A119 dashcam to the duo A129 which I'll hardwire. I am still waiting for my add-a-fuse taps.

For those that installed with the HK3 ACC hardwire kit, where did you connect the ground near the fusebox? Have a pic?

I grounded right to the fuse box mounting lug.

 

[macallien]

I wasn't interested in having my dashcam run 24/7. Only wanted it while driving. Have the Escort M1 dashcam, mounted on a BlendMount support. Used a MirrorTap for power, so the dashcam only operates when the power mirror does (ignition on, ACC on, etc.). Clean and efficient, with no wires hanging in my face. The Escort M1 is designed to work in conjunction with a radar detector, and I do not have a radar detector presently (usually drive conservatively) but may purchase one some time in the future. The additional wire coming out of the side of the dashcam (shown hanging loose in the second picture) is the factory supplied power source for the future detector. The power goes through the camera and into the detector. I just have the short detector power cord tied/tucked up out of the way for the time being.
View attachment 15327
View attachment 15328

How did you get into the mirror assembly and where did you tap into for power and ground?

 

[macallien]

I don’t want a list of the fuses, I want a friggin diagram of the fuse box with a clear, easy to read number that I can the reference in the provided list. Also, in “the good old days” there were actually fuse locations that were already wired for ACC and 12v so we could actually just plug **** in without worrying about what electronic system we were going muck up by adding a little xtra current draw to the circuit. May just have to add a marine accessories fuse box down there somewhere and run it strait to the batter.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hope this helps you!