Very nice install so far, and with super high quality ingredients. I did my truck awhile back and nobody knows the joy and that feeling when you finish it up and it works. I sunk 2+ weeks into my build, taking PTO from work to be focused. Biggest regret was doing it while it was 100+ *F outside.
A few questions and food for thought:
1. Are you pulling the headliner to do the roof at all? If you have the pano sunroof, I'd argue that it might not be worth the effort, but seeing your level of acoustic treatments, I know you will. You can see what you'd be working with in my
build log. Lots of gadgets and dodads up there. Hard to find good places to apply CLD or CCF.
2. Any plans for rear fill? Guessing not with a 3 way front+substage on the DSP3. I finally built a vehicle that had enough midbass punch for my liking by adding midbasses to the rear and feeding them a L-R and R-L signal. I got the chance to listen to the setup without the rears for awhile, and the rears elevated my midbass without adding any coherence problems (with proper time alignment and some help from Dirac Live on my MiniDSP). I see you're squeezing in 8s, so it looks like you're chasing midbass punch too.
3. Have you seen
Thinsulate rolls used in audio applications? I backed off some on CLD and CCF in favor of Thinsulate in my doors for this install. CLD coverage was...don't remember exactly, but I'll guess ~50% coverage in the door vertical surfaces, but with the door card packed with Thinsulate, this install is noticeably better than my previous installs where I went super heavy on CLD, CCF, and MLV. I suspect the Thinsulate is working as a massive decoupler for the exterior touch points on the doors. My midbass is nuts with just the GB60s in the front and GS690s in the rear. On certain mid-80s tracks (Phil Collins for example) it's
almost too much. Lots of bang for minimal weight added to the doors. My 2011 challenger's doors were twice as heavy as they started, and that was an annoyance on a car with long doors like that. The truck door added weight is hardly noticeable. Better results and less side effects.
4. I too had to work around the eTorque battery. I didn't pull it to treat the rear wall. MLVs goal is to establish a wall of weight, and the eTorque battery is dense already. I ran my MLV right up to it and tucked it into the cracks, but the battery seems to have done a good job back there for my two GB10D2 subs. The nightmare was running all new wiring throughout the vehicle. Everything on the driver's side had to cross over/under the eTorque battery cabling or underneath the battery pack, and I ran 16 AWG to everything.
5. Laying out the amp rack was super challenging, and I ended up with my rears on a 4 channel that had no hope of fitting on the back wall. I rigged up an amp rack extension that ran forward, towards my sub box. I mounted the DPS and the rears amp to it and it ended up neat and tidy. If you're still in progress, you might check my build log out for ideas. Added benefit is I can reach the DSP to plug in my laptop, etc. The rear wall amps that power my subs and frontstage are virtually inaccessible with the rear seats in.
6. Be sure you wrap your new wiring in automotive tape. I thought I did an awesome job of that, but when I got it all back together, my own super acoustic treatment made the deficiencies more apparent. I had to take the headliner back off to do a better job of wrapping some wiring I ran up there.
Super awesome build so far! I'd love to hear this truck when it's done.
