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Fox 2.5 coilovers install on 2020 Rebel

  • Thread starter Thread starter User_21361
  • Start date Start date
I added the fox 2.5 front stock settings to the below, looks like my passenger is one thread less than the driver, so if they would have spun the collar around 180 degrees where I could loosen the set screw they would be even/very close.

I loaded the bed (300 and 500lbs are in addition to the topper) and at 300lbs in the bed my rake is 1.35in, and at 500lbs I'd estimate it to be 0.7in (ran out of time to measure the front at 500lbs).

This is without anyone in the cab so it is possible with 2 adults and 2 children the rake would increase or at the least not get worse (nose high).

View attachment 72236
Add another 400-500lbs and see where you end up. Clayton's will firm up with more weight. I just don't know at how much weight we hit the 3rd rate. I run 500lbs of extra weight at all times (Steel bumper, full wheel/tire mounted in bed, swing out carrier, softopper, recovery gear/ tools etc) and I'm eating 1 out of them. But I can add my 3 kids in the back (400lbs) and I get down maybe 1/4" or so. With Clayton's we go from 280lbs/inch 2nd rate to 370lbs/inch 3rd rate. Don't know how much they need to sag to go from 2nd rate to 3rd rate but I'd think it'll be once you push them down at least 1 inch.
 
Just counted mine and I'm at 18 threads on both sides. I may crank the driver side another turn to see if I get another .25 out of it. I don't want to impact ride quality, so I may just deal with 2.5" of lift

Also, my sag numbers match yours. I lost about an inch of height with 500 lbs of plates on/near the tailgate
Crank the driver side one full turn more than the passenger. We need that to counter act the gas tank weight.. If you measure all four corners the passenger side is typically higher so we push the front driver side one full turn higher, which has the effect of lowering the opposite corner (rear passenger) just a little and that in turn tends to make the gas tank lean much better.

Yep the 500lbs /1 inch sag sounds about right for the Claytons, like i posted above i think past the 500 lbs mark we start reaching into the 3rd rate of the coils and we get less sag with more weight. If you guys added more weight and wanted to lift that butt back you can upgrade to Claytons 3.5" . i'm 1.5" lift above stock counting the 500lbs of permanent weight i have in the bed. plus i also have rock sliders (180 lbs more literally pushing the truck down front and rear and front bumper and winch are 158lbs.

Also i think i've posted for you how to measure your coilovers length at ride height to make sure your preload is not excessive. You can also measure from the center wheel hub cap to the edge of the fender at ride height. then jack up the front until the wheels are in the air, then measure center wheel hub cap to the edge of the fender one more time. The difference should be be at least 2 or 2.5". the more the better, that's your max droop with whatever preload you have now. I
 
Add another 400-500lbs and see where you end up. Clayton's will firm up with more weight. I just don't know at how much weight we hit the 3rd rate. I run 500lbs of extra weight at all times (Steel bumper, full wheel/tire mounted in bed, swing out carrier, softopper, recovery gear/ tools etc) and I'm eating 1 out of them. But I can add my 3 kids in the back (400lbs) and I get down maybe 1/4" or so. With Clayton's we go from 280lbs/inch 2nd rate to 370lbs/inch 3rd rate. Don't know how much they need to sag to go from 2nd rate to 3rd rate but I'd think it'll be once you push them down at least 1 inch.
Will do, for reference between the MFT (120lbs), ORP (120lbs), 33 gal tank (+80lbs in materials and extra fuel) and BUG (25lbs) I'm ~300lbs heavier over the rear axle than a 5th gen without those, add the fiberglass topper for +500lbs total (no 35in spare yet) and it should be comparable to the 500lbs you are running. The +300 and 500lbs above would be on top of that.

I haven't messed with the adjustable fox's yet, but it does feel too soft at the default setting 3 of 10 and could be due to extra weight, but I will play with it after the alignment.
 
Will do, for reference between the MFT (120lbs), ORP (120lbs), 33 gal tank (+80lbs in materials and extra fuel) and BUG (25lbs) I'm ~300lbs heavier over the rear axle than a 5th gen without those, add the fiberglass topper for +500lbs total (no 35in spare yet) and it should be comparable to the 500lbs you are running. The +300 and 500lbs above would be on top of that.

I haven't messed with the adjustable fox's yet, but it does feel too soft at the default setting 3 of 10 and could be due to extra weight, but I will play with it after the alignment.
1603302244243.png
So the 300 and 500 lbs figures above have the 200+ extra from the topper ? if so then you're showing topper +300 for 500lbs total, and topper +500 lbs for 700 lbs more than stock in there ?
 
View attachment 72357
So the 300 and 500 lbs figures above have the 200+ extra from the topper ? if so then you're showing topper +300 for 500lbs total, and topper +500 lbs for 700 lbs more than stock in there ?
Yes that is right, fiberglass topper plus 4x 20in wheel and tire combos (75lbs each) for the 300lbs, and then got my family (wife and two small kids) to sit inside the bed to bring it to 500lbs from the 300lbs.
 
Crank the driver side one full turn more than the passenger. We need that to counter act the gas tank weight.. If you measure all four corners the passenger side is typically higher so we push the front driver side one full turn higher, which has the effect of lowering the opposite corner (rear passenger) just a little and that in turn tends to make the gas tank lean much better.

Yep the 500lbs /1 inch sag sounds about right for the Claytons, like i posted above i think past the 500 lbs mark we start reaching into the 3rd rate of the coils and we get less sag with more weight. If you guys added more weight and wanted to lift that butt back you can upgrade to Claytons 3.5" . i'm 1.5" lift above stock counting the 500lbs of permanent weight i have in the bed. plus i also have rock sliders (180 lbs more literally pushing the truck down front and rear and front bumper and winch are 158lbs.

Also i think i've posted for you how to measure your coilovers length at ride height to make sure your preload is not excessive. You can also measure from the center wheel hub cap to the edge of the fender at ride height. then jack up the front until the wheels are in the air, then measure center wheel hub cap to the edge of the fender one more time. The difference should be be at least 2 or 2.5". the more the better, that's your max droop with whatever preload you have now. I
How do you like your kings? Do you offroad much? I just installed some on my rebel and I love them. Some of my buddies have them as well but I don't think they're adjusted right or idk what their problem might be but they don't ride as great as mine do.
 
Is installing new/different coils in the rear something that is highly recommend? I am still learning about suspension upgrades and I want something that will level my Rebel without sacrificing ride quality on and off road.
 
How do you like your kings? Do you offroad much? I just installed some on my rebel and I love them. Some of my buddies have them as well but I don't think they're adjusted right or idk what their problem might be but they don't ride as great as mine do.
Love them. I've run many different 2.5 COs and shocks in the past In different applications, mostly Toyotas from Icon, Radflo, SAW, and now Kings in the RAM. My truck is in the dirt a lot so I love everything the offroad world have to offer, the pinstripes, all the different setups out there the whole experience. There is something that make Kings unique. I still have to try Fox 2.5's one day :) I went with the OE version initially ran them for about 12k miles then had Accutune do a full valving job and tune and the difference is fairly noticeable especially when the washes get rougher.
 
Is installing new/different coils in the rear something that is highly recommend? I am still learning about suspension upgrades and I want something that will level my Rebel without sacrificing ride quality on and off road.
Rear springs won't help level your truck. There are several front coilovers that will help (bilsteins, fox, kings, many more). The main issue I was solving with new rear springs was that I wanted some rake, and an overall higher rear rider height without putting spacers on a nice set of shocks. This allows for more cargo, better ride quality off-road while not not being nose high.

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Is installing new/different coils in the rear something that is highly recommend? I am still learning about suspension upgrades and I want something that will level my Rebel without sacrificing ride quality on and off road.
It depends of what you're trying to accomplish. Longer progressive coils will allow you run longer shocks and carry more weight with less sag. Good for offroading, overlanding etc. The ride quality is another added bonus. Maybe you want to keep the extra height and tow a trailer and and not sag 2-3" with 800-900lbs. Then you have people for example with a work truck that doesnt necessarily need longer coils or longer shocks, so an airbag in that instance can do the job well or Some others will just do those extra HD bumpstops where you ride on your bumpstops on purpose to give the truck load control. Ride quality may not be a concern in that case and you don't need to thinker much with spring rates and shock length.maybe you just want looks in which case a spacer can do the job.
 
Love them. I've run many different 2.5 COs and shocks in the past In different applications, mostly Toyotas from Icon, Radflo, SAW, and now Kings in the RAM. My truck is in the dirt a lot so I love everything the offroad world have to offer, the pinstripes, all the different setups out there the whole experience. There is something that make Kings unique. I still have to try Fox 2.5's one day :) I went with the OE version initially ran them for about 12k miles then had Accutune do a full valving job and tune and the difference is fairly noticeable especially when the washes get rougher.
So its not just hype then. I understand that for long travel its mandatory for a custom tune to set your needs but accutune kept on insisting on getting a tune on my oem spec shocks. I don’t see why King would put out a shock that's not even worth trying out. Not sure if a tune from them would make it that much better.
 
So its not just hype then. I understand that for long travel its mandatory for a custom tune to set your needs but accutune kept on insisting on getting a tune on my oem spec shocks. I don’t see why King would put out a shock that's not even worth trying out. Not sure if a tune from them would make it that much better.
I kow they changed my rear pistons and they showed them to me, from what i remember the rears were nor linear from the factory and they needed that to valve them a certain way with their double flutter stack.,they changed my rebound settings, also tuned out the valving on the shocks for my truck weight (800 lbs over stock) among other things.

I don't think you have to change anything right now from the OE valving if you don't want to. They'll get the job done until you want to make a change or until you need to service the shocks and you feel to change the characteristics of the shocks under specific situations.. My complaint was i needed to speed up to about 40mph and up around washes for example to feel the plushness on the shocks, now that happens at less speed, plus large ruts and squared potholes or fast hoops feel less harsh when you hit them hard. They're a tad more firm on the street though cause i don't have adjusters, my truck is about 800lbs heavier than stock and rides better on the fwy the way i have everything setup, especially when i add more weight to take a long trip, offroad etc. My truck wasn't this heavy originially so i drove on the OE settings for at least 1 year.

If you feel the truck is behaving good with the OE specs you don't have to change anything. That'll give you time to get familiar with your setup, drive it in the dirt at speed and get a feel for how the truck behaves. eventually you may add more mods that adds weight so things may change after that. I don't do jumps, but in my case large ruts or potholes were making the front CO's top out. If you look underneath your bumpstops in the CO's you'll see there is a metal washer in there that bents like an inverted U when the shock bottoms out. Don't worry if that happens next event it'll get flat, lol. In my case both of them washers were mangled up. After valving and tune they have remained flat and i haven't felt the CO's hitting the bumpstops hard.. Last time before i had them valved and tuned i did hit a man made squared pothole at about 40 mph in the dirt and i swear i thought i had broken something.
The steering got crooked to the left but i had no noises or anything asides from that. Only evidence i could see was the washer on that side was bent again i just took the truck to the alignment shop they checked everything and ended up being the toe was out by little much on that side. Nothing happened to the shock or anything else down there so the CO's/shocks can take all the fun you want to give them :)
 
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I picked up a set of compressors and was able to crank them enough that I could adjust the preload on the truck. I still jacked it up. Took about an hour to do both sides.

When you get a chance, can you measure how much thread showing you have?



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Hi there,

Would you happen to know which spring compressor you used for your coilovers and where you bought or rented from? Maybe even a picture,, I'm in need of them badly, could not budge the collar even though I had the weight off of them.

2020 Ram Rebel 4x4
 
A few weeks ago, I installed a front and rear Fox 2.5 with DSC. I haven't seen a lot of content on these and wanted to provide some insight on my experience.

Where I started: Like almost everyone, I wanted a level stance on my Rebel and I was very early to install a set of Bilstein 5100's on setting 5

Why I switched: I loved the look, but hated the ride. Most importantly, my wife really hated the ride. She would get in the back of the truck to help the kids and would consistently describe how rough and bouncy the ride was.

What I installed:
  • Front:
    • Fox FOX-883-06-166
    • Icon UCAs
  • Rear
    • Fox FOX-883-26-079

Why Fox: I was all in on the King 2.5 and was dangerously close to purchasing. The main challenge started when I was quoted about 4-6 weeks for shipping. I am not a patient man but I was willing to wait. It got me looking for other options. Timing was a challenge because I planned on doing the install myself and did not really want to be working in the cold. I started looking at Fox and saw several posts online about their very high quality parts (not that Kings are not high quality). The most intriguing part was the improved adjustment of the Fox DSC vs Kings adjustment system. You can google to find the similar articles if that intrigues you. I called around and Poly Performance had a set in stock to ship next day which then solved my main issue and the decision was very easy (although more expensive). I opted for the longer front coilovers because I do plan on lifting the back another inch. I'm sure you can't go wrong with either setup.

For UCAs, it all came down to availability. Everyone was several weeks out except for icon. Given I was unwilling to wait for coilovers, I was certainly unwilling to block on UCAs.

Price: $4350

Install: I did the work in two chunks mostly because I have never done this before by myself. I swapped out my springs and struts on an old wrangler, but I had help from someone knowledgeable. I started with the rear, because they arrived before the fronts. This was also a bit better because I could feel more comfortable with the process as I knew it would take a few days of sporadic work to finish the job with 2 young kids at home. I knew the rear would be easier to do.

Rear Install: The install was very smooth. The two hardest parts were 1) getting the wheels off (The new Fuel wheels have a different lug pattern than my wrench). 2) Getting the stock shocks off at the top. I solved the first on with a quick purchase/ship from Amazon. Thankfully I tried the lugs a day early and saw the issue. Also thankfully I didn't figure out that I couldn't get my wheels off when changing a flat tire! (PSA). With the wheels off, I just had to disconnect the shock. Getting the top nut off was challenging because the Bilstein shocks have a hex top to prevent the rod from spinning. This works great except you cant hold that and twist the nut on the last 2 threads. I wasn't able to hand loosen the nut at this stage and had to opt for a rubber grip (old bike tube) and vice grips to get the nut off. The new shocks slipped right into place with no fuss. The whole rear took about 2-3 hours.

View attachment 69525

Front install: Oddly, these were easier (ie no gotcha) but required more steps. I did this more in stages as I expected 5+ hours to do the whole thing. I disconnected everything the night before (including the stock UCA). I then also prepped the Icon UCA for install ahead of time. The only really hard part was getting the stock UCA to pop off. I started with a small hammer, but that just didnt work. The drivers side popped off with a few taps of a sledge (watch a youtube video before attempting to calibrate on what a tap/hit means). The passenger side took significantly more force and effort. I had an "oh crap" moment thinking I wouldn't be able to get the UCA off. A few harder hits got it off. Then just put it all in and torqued to spec. Pretty uneventful but certainly doable for someone with tools and fairly comfortable with DIY stuff. The whole process took about 6 hours.

View attachment 69524

The results: The truck stance completely matched that of my Bilstein 5100 level. No additional height (which was expected). After a quick trip to the shop to get an alignment I was ready for testing

Road test (and final exam): One main benefit of the Fox shocks is the adjustment between on and off road. They came at setting 3 (of 10) which are very soft which is amazing for road use. The performance over bumps on the road, both at high and low speeds is significantly better than stock (and especially the 5100s). I noticed a dramatic change and most importantly the wife approves of the ride which used to get several complaints on every single drive. I can't over state how much better she enjoys it.

Off road test: I haven't done any real slow crawling since the installed but I did hit a few fire roads. I stopped and adjusted to setting 7. The adjustment is easy, but annoying to sit on the ground to do. I was able to take them at about 45-50 mph with no effort. You recognize you are going over bumps but its not jarring at all. I was able to comfortably drink coffee out while driving (YMMV). I took the 5100's offroad and they did their job, but you could really feel the bumps at 15-20 mph. To me, the 5100 aren't really in the same league and comparison isn't super valuable.

Whats next: I really want to be able to use the extra inch on the front coilovers, but I refuse to put a spacer on top of a 4k suspension. I have been searching for rear springs and have a set on order. They arrive the end of Sept and I'll do a test fitting. I'll post an update after the install.
Any idea how the ride quality would be on the max 3 inch lift settings? Thanks in advance!
 
Hi there,

Would you happen to know which spring compressor you used for your coilovers and where you bought or rented from? Maybe even a picture,, I'm in need of them badly, could not budge the collar even though I had the weight off of them.

2020 Ram Rebel 4x4

No affiliation :)
Any idea how the ride quality would be on the max 3 inch lift settings? Thanks in advance!

I cranked mine a bit (not exactly sure on the measurements), but the ride is phenomenal. I drive with my DSC set to 8+ on high and low and no one ever complains. I love these shocks.
 
Did anyone find a good way of removing the top nut on the rear shocks? Turning the nut just spins the shaft.


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Did anyone find a good way of removing the top nut on the rear shocks? Turning the nut just spins the shaft.


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I would love to hear from a more qualified person, but I got mine off by wrapping an old bike inner tube around the shaft twice and then using a pair of vice grips. The tube provided grip and protection from the vice grips. Worked like a charm and the shaft had no damage.
 
I would love to hear from a more qualified person, but I got mine off by wrapping an old bike inner tube around the shaft twice and then using a pair of vice grips. The tube provided grip and protection from the vice grips. Worked like a charm and the shaft had no damage.

Damn, ive tried that. Still spinning. Was your lower bolt in when you did this?


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Damn, ive tried that. Still spinning. Was your lower bolt in when you did this?


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The bolt was in but not tightened. If you don’t care about salvaging the old shocks, Vice grips without the tube will definitely work
 
Damn, ive tried that. Still spinning. Was your lower bolt in when you did this?


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I had the same problem with the rears but used a couple of nickel sized 1/8" thick rubber washers, one on each side of rod and used these vice grips "home depot" which allowed me to crank them down enough.
d66473bc29708d33d445e87eb718e547.jpg


2020 Ram Rebel 4x4
 

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