Engine rebuild for future whipple?

[MilehighRam]

What other real options are out there to make some more power aside from forced induction? Are there engine rebuild kist (392, stokers?) that make 100+ hp and/or torque that might be a safer route? for example, would rebuilding the engine with a 392 kit for x dollars with forged internals get some real hp gains and leave the truck in a better position for boost down the road?

 

[GMetal]

Ram Recharged – 2020 Ram 1500 ProCharger Installation

If you want more power for your 2019 and up Ram 1500, there is no better bolt-on than a ProCharger kit with an intercooler.

www.offroadxtreme.com

Nobody that has pulled down their RAM or installed a supercharger kit is knocking this out in a day. Its takes a few days to do most kit installs unless you do the same kit over and over and know all the ins and out. Just getting all the parts out and everything disassembled will eat up a big portion of the day. Nothing ever goes right together.

Edit here is the instructions for the simple "bolt on" kit. https://downloads.procharger.com/uploads/manuals/DODGE-RAM TRUCK/PMDP1A-001_D_2019+_RAM-1500.pdf

 

[GMetal]

What other real options are out there to make some more power aside from forced induction? Are there engine rebuild kist (392, stokers?) that make 100+ hp and/or torque that might be a safer route? for example, would rebuilding the engine with a 392 kit for x dollars with forged internals get some real hp gains and leave the truck in a better position for boost down the road?

Crate engine 427 would get you there but thats a few bucks too.

 

[BowDown]

HP Tuners can unlock PCMs. Never assume a "kit" wil just fit. Never seen a kit ever fit without some modification to make it all work. Covid definitely has ruined many things related to performace parts. Im still waiting on parts from 2 years ago.

HP tuners is the way I'd go, use HP on my car

 

[GMetal]

I will add one more thing. It is not in any shops best interest to save the customer money. A proper shop should always do the best practices and verify everything is done proper. Redoing poor work not only hurts the shops reputation but also ruins the customer's experience. Every aftermarket manufacturer is providing parts that should fit. Every kit should be proven before being sold to the public. This isnt the case many times. Even the biggest names have quality control problems or rush out kits that havent been proven.

 

[BowDown]

I will add one more thing. It is not in any shops best interest to save the customer money. A proper shop should always do the best practices and verify everything is done proper. Redoing poor work not only hurts the shops reputation but also ruins the customer's experience. Every aftermarket manufacturer is providing parts that should fit. Every kit should be proven before being sold to the public. This isnt the case many times. Even the biggest names have quality control problems or rush out kits that havent been proven.

A-motherphuken-man
I's so gd sick of shops at this point that I'm ready to be done with this S. Its almost to the point, no matter the shop, you need to know as much or more about the tech/build/components as they do.

I argued with Gwatney about my cam specs, specifically the valve events. I spec'd the cam at 244/265 with a 110° LSA. They changed the specs had Cam Motion grind a 244/264 on a 112° which killed top end power.
My spec is then thin line





Then argued with me about spring seat pressure, that change alone netted power past 7200 rpm




You have to go into this being very knowledgeable or you will not know what you didn't get

 

[HSKR R/T]

Did I say it couldn't be done in that amount of time? He asked how long a shop would take.
You say milking the time, that's not what I said, I said they may only work on it 4 or so hours a day. I never said a shadetree mech couldn't do it but that wasn't the question either was it?

If a person worked on this for 8 hours straight, yes they could do it in a day. If a person has never done an install like this then it will take longer. Have a laser pulley alignment tool lying around? It's not needed but it makes the job a lot easier, who would know to have one handy or why? Oh yeah, an experienced installer. Pulley alignment alone can cost you a significant amount of time especially if you didn't know to check or to even mock up the unit 1sy before torquing everything done.

Yes, I've installed a F1X on a friend's car then later an F1R

It shouldn't take 8 hours, and if I'm paying a shop to work on my vehicle, they should be working on my vehicle, unless they are waiting on parts.

 

[BowDown]

It shouldn't take 8 hours, and if I'm paying a shop to work on my vehicle, they should be working on my vehicle, unless they are waiting on parts.

Ok man. One person thats done it on a gen 5 ram says differently but you do you

 

[HSKR R/T]

Ok man. One person thats done it on a gen 5 ram says differently but you do you

Like you said one person. What was his experiene level?

 

[BowDown]

Like you said one person. What was his experiene level?

Unless you've also done an install, his is higher than yours. I've done it, my experience level is high as is plainly evident in my posts. Your comment about the shop working on your car tells me you've never dealt with a tuner shop, the fact that you think they are working on your car and your car alone from the time they have it till its delivered back to you; that's inexperience talking.

The fact that you think this is a simple 8 hour "got it done" no issues straight forward install suggests to me that you've not done it, matter of fact, your comments suggest to me that you've done a lot of "forum reading" but little major wrench turning, IE pulled heads, cam installs, pulled the engine, diffs, trans etc. Now, one could say the same about me but...


Intake swap




Head swap



Trans upgrade and installed trans/diff strengthening braces



Engine out of the car and delivered to HPR and as you can see in the 1st and 2nd pics, that in my garage using this quick jack



So yeah, I have a bit of experience and you're not installing a super charger in 8 hours especially one person. The whipple seating alone is a 2 person job

 

[HSKR R/T]

Unless you've also done an install, his is higher than yours. I've done it, my experience level is high as is plainly evident in my posts. Your comment about the shop working on your car tells me you've never dealt with a tuner shop, the fact that you think they are working on your car and your car alone from the time they have it till its delivered back to you; that's inexperience talking.

The fact that you think this is a simple 8 hour "got it done" no issues straight forward install suggests to me that you've not done it, matter of fact, your comments suggest to me that you've done a lot of "forum reading" but little major wrench turning, IE pulled heads, cam installs, pulled the engine, diffs, trans etc. Now, one could say the same about me but...

View attachment 160547
Intake swap

View attachment 160548

View attachment 160549
Head swap

View attachment 160550

Trans upgrade and installed trans/diff strengthening braces

View attachment 160551

Engine out of the car and delivered to HPR and as you can see in the 1st and 2nd pics, that in my garage using this quick jack

View attachment 160552

So yeah, I have a bit of experience and you're not installing a super charger in 8 hours

Not sure what pulling an engine has to do with installing a centrifugal supercharger, but sure, you are so much more experienced than me. I have never rebuilt a motor before. Oh wait, yes I have, several times. This is my engine from my Dakota, in my garage. Have rebuilt it twice since I've owned it. that's also my 1966 D100 in the background that I have rebuilt the engine in, upgraded carb, and a front disc upgrade. Have also helped on other people's vehicles, including centrifugal supercharged ones. And other than the machine work to bore the cylinders, everything was done myself. No shop needed to assemble an engine. Sorry I didn't feel the need to post a resume to brag about my experience before. But I see with you, that's what is needed. So while you are paying shops to do the work, I'm doing the work myself.

 

[BowDown]

What other real options are out there to make some more power aside from forced induction? Are there engine rebuild kist (392, stokers?) that make 100+ hp and/or torque that might be a safer route? for example, would rebuilding the engine with a 392 kit for x dollars with forged internals get some real hp gains and leave the truck in a better position for boost down the road?

Boost is more expensive initially but long-term, boost is far cheaper and easier to live with than N/A. I'd stay with boost and I'd look at a TRX unless you are disciplined enough to leave 6psi alone and be happy

 

[BowDown]

Not sure what pulling an engine has to do with installing a centrifugal supercharger, but sure, you are so much more experienced than me. I have never rebuilt a motor before. Oh wait, yes I have, several times. This is my engine from my Dakota, in my garage. Have rebuilt it twice since I've owned it. that's also my 1966 D100 in the background that I have rebuilt the engine in, upgraded carb, and a front disc upgrade. Have also helped on other people's vehicles, including centrifugal supercharged ones. And other than the machine work to bore the cylinders, everything was done myself. No shop needed to assemble an engine. Sorry I didn't feel the need to post a resume to brag about my experience before. But I see with you, that's what is needed. So while you are paying shops to do the work, I'm doing the work myself. View attachment 160557

And it made what 300 hp?
This isn't a bragging contest, its you poo-pooing every comment with some negative BS. The guy asked for advice, you feel some need to show everyone why they're wrong, go back and look at your responses. I've built engines, my 360, then a 440 both for my 73 Charger, swpped more trans /engines and diffs than I can remember. This is different though. the crank in my LS cost more than my 440, the rods and pistons cost what the entire 360 did. Its about accountability when you have this much money tied up in something.

As for paying shops, I paying for a 700+ HP stroker engine to be built correctly and not have any issues and have a reputable shops name associated with it because I intend to sell it in the future. and that accountability thing

Buyer: hey, you have a car for sale with a stroker engine, who built it?
Me: Me
Buyer: slowly backs away, thanks man, good luck with the sale.

That you think working on a D100 or Dakota/engine is comparable to a modern LS or Gen 3 HEMI vehicle is laughable but like I said, you do you.

 

[HSKR R/T]

And it made what 300 hp?
This isn't a bragging contest, its you poo-pooing every comment with some negative BS. The guy asked for advice, you feel some need to show everyone why they're wrong, go back and look at your responses. I've built engines, my 360, then a 440 both for my 73 Charger, swpped more trans /engines and diffs than I can remember. This is different though. the crank in my LS cost more than my 440, the rods and pistons cost what the entire 360 did. Its about accountability when you have this much money tied up in something.

As for paying shops, I paying for a 700+ HP stroker engine to be built correctly and not have any issues and have a reputable shops name associated with it because I intend to sell it in the future. and that accountability thing

Buyer: hey, you have a car for sale with a stroker engine, who built it?
Me: Me
Buyer: slowly backs away, thanks man, good luck with the sale.

That you think working on a D100 or Dakota/engine is comparable to a modern LS or Gen 3 HEMI vehicle is laughable but like I said, you do you.

Unless you are dealing with OHC mod motors, or imports, a V8 is a V8. Doesn't matter if it was built in the 60s or 2020s. The basic design and mechanics of a pushrod engine are the same. Trying to say they're not shows you are trying to upsell your experience to make it seem somehow more relevant. the only difference is sensors and computer control, which is a tuning thing, not a mechanical thing. And as far as OHC, I have rebuilt a OHC Dodge engine and a DOHC Dodge engine, and both ran great.

Currently building a 410 stroker for the Dakota. Have SKAT forged rotating assembly in the garage with custom built forged Diamond pistons. Your experience is no different than mine. I don't build my vehicles to sell, so knowing it's done right and knowing what parts are installed, rather than trusting a shop who only has their interests in mind, is a better option IMO.

I offered my advice early on. It hasn't changed. Since then, you have injected yourself into the conversation as some expert who is better than anyone else. Your opinion is different from mine. But it's just an opinion, nothing more. Doesn't make you somehow more right.

 

[Av1]

I love this place.

 

[BowDown]

Unless you are dealing with OHC mod motors, or imports, a V8 is a V8. Doesn't matter if it was built in the 60s or 2020s. The basic design and mechanics of a pushrod engine are the same. Trying to say they're not shows you are trying to upsell your experience to make it seem somehow more relevant. the only difference is sensors and computer control, which is a tuning thing, not a mechanical thing. And as far as OHC, I have rebuilt a OHC Dodge engine and a DOHC Dodge engine, and both ran great.

Currently building a 410 stroker for the Dakota. Have SKAT forged rotating assembly in the garage with custom built forged Diamond pistons. Your experience is no different than mine. I don't build my vehicles to sell, so knowing it's done right and knowing what parts are installed, rather than trusting a shop who only has their interests in mind, is a better option IMO.

I offered my advice early on. It hasn't changed. Since then, you have injected yourself into the conversation as some expert who is better than anyone else. Your opinion is different from mine. But it's just an opinion, nothing more. Doesn't make you somehow more right.

I've injected myself? Go back and look at how many times you quoted my comments attempting to correct me.
Like I said, reread your posts and for that matter, re-read mine. You seem confused, ironically, someone else said the very same thing to you in the what did you do with your RAM today thread.

A V8 is a V8 lol, ok

 

[HSKR R/T]

I've injected myself? Go back and look at how many times you quoted my comments attempting to correct me.
Like I said, reread your posts and for that matter, re-read mine. You seem confused, ironically, someone else said the very same thing to you in the what did you do with your RAM today thread.

A V8 is a V8 lol, ok

Not confused at all. Like I said, my opinion differs than yours. You are trying to come off as your opinion being superior to pretty much anyone else in this thread. Even being trying to discredit my advice assuming I had little to no experience. When it turns out, I have just as much experience as you. But you have far more replies I this thread trying to flex your knowledge.

As far as pushrod V8s, strip them down to a long block with no sensors or wiring and they are all operate the same mechanically. The same concepts for building them apply.

If you can prove that anything I have said is factually wrong, I'd be happy to see the proof. And I don't just mean your opinion

 

[BowDown]

Not confused at all. Like I said, my opinion differs than yours. You are trying to come off as your opinion being superior to pretty much anyone else in this thread. Even being trying to discredit my advice assuming I had little to no experience. When it turns out, I have just as much experience as you. But you have far more replies I this thread trying to flex your knowledge.

As far as pushrod V8s, strip them down to a long block with no sensors or wiring and they are all operate the same mechanically. The same concepts for building them apply.

If you can prove that anything I have said is factually wrong, I'd be happy to see the proof. And I don't just mean your opinion

No man, you went back and tried to "correct" me in multiple posts when the fact of the matter is that there are multiple opinions and paths to take to accomplish the OPs goal. My opinion is just that, one of thousands yet you felt a need to single mine out and show me why I was wrong, failing miserably I might add:

If you need extra cooling help only running 6psi, then you have a tune issue. The stock cooling system can more than keep up.

Pretty much all aftermarket stand alone fuel/engine management systems use speed density. Its actually easier to tune. With MAF, you get limited by the MAF sensor itself and how much it can actually flow. And just like most se skrs, aftermarket MAF sensors are hit or miss a d no two read the same.

You don't need a whole new fuel system, justarger injectors and a proper tune. As long as the fuel pump can keep up with demand. At some point you will need to uograde the fuel pump, but you can do just the pump for a fraction the cost of a complete fuel system. You'd have to be north of 1000hp before you need to think About a complete fuel system replacement. I know guys with Scat Pack Challengers pushing 1000hp with just larger injectors, a higher volume fuel pump, and tune, plus the other supporting mods. But stock fuel lines, and fuel rails. And the fuel pump was just a replacement in tank pump

Just because a shop wants to milk he time doesn't mean it can't be done. And if procharger send a tuned PCM with the kit, your average shade tree mechanic can install it in a day. A procharger is a bolt on mod. You take off your stock air filter assembly, probably fan shroud, and bolt on the procharger bracket and hesd unit. Maybe swap out the crank pulley, if it uses its own belt. No changes to fuel system, that's taken care of with the tune. Any competent tech can knock it out.

But that is why I do all my own work, at least as much as I can. I'm not going to pay someone else to take their time and milk the labor

It shouldn't take 8 hours, and if I'm paying a shop to work on my vehicle, they should be working on my vehicle, unless they are waiting on parts.

All these post are directed at me and telling me why I was wrong, not one time did I address or correct you till page 4 when you were yelling look at me, look at me, daddy, look at me. So yes, you are confused on some things. Now run along and build your 320 hp 410 stroker

 

[Mountain Whiskey]

 

[HSKR R/T]

Basicslky. Will just let BowDown win this one. Anyone with common sense can sort through the comments and decide who they want to listen to.

View attachment 160572