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Sjleo1288

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Here we go again, with the “dead battery’ Truck worked fine for 5 months since my last tow Sept 2020..All was good codes were cleared air suspension worked fine and running boards deployed..Until 1/18/21 tried to remote start 36’ dregs , No engine running horned sounded once. I went out to investigate...push ignition start , brake wouldn’t engage enough to put pressure on it..Loud POP disengaged , attempted again with just electrical radio came on...and everything lit up entire codes, warning lights and air suspension faults, noticed vehicle level is stuck in off-road position...and then lights out everywhere, no running boards...Dam there fell missing that step out...lol...All jokes aside 4th tow in 24 months 37K miles, Why is this still HAPPENING? Someone please empathize!!!!
 

HemiDude

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Here we go again, with the “dead battery’ Truck worked fine for 5 months since my last tow Sept 2020..All was good codes were cleared air suspension worked fine and running boards deployed..Until 1/18/21 tried to remote start 36’ dregs , No engine running horned sounded once. I went out to investigate...push ignition start , brake wouldn’t engage enough to put pressure on it..Loud POP disengaged , attempted again with just electrical radio came on...and everything lit up entire codes, warning lights and air suspension faults, noticed vehicle level is stuck in off-road position...and then lights out everywhere, no running boards...Dam there fell missing that step out...lol...All jokes aside 4th tow in 24 months 37K miles, Why is this still HAPPENING? Someone please empathize!!!!
Sounds like a real PIA. Have all of the tows been for a dead battery? If the original battery hasn't been replaced I would do that immediately
 

Ramtrx

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Mine battery died at 35000 miles. Just over a year and half. It was annoying for sure to deal with.
 

RamCares

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Here we go again, with the “dead battery’ Truck worked fine for 5 months since my last tow Sept 2020..All was good codes were cleared air suspension worked fine and running boards deployed..Until 1/18/21 tried to remote start 36’ dregs , No engine running horned sounded once. I went out to investigate...push ignition start , brake wouldn’t engage enough to put pressure on it..Loud POP disengaged , attempted again with just electrical radio came on...and everything lit up entire codes, warning lights and air suspension faults, noticed vehicle level is stuck in off-road position...and then lights out everywhere, no running boards...Dam there fell missing that step out...lol...All jokes aside 4th tow in 24 months 37K miles, Why is this still HAPPENING? Someone please empathize!!!!
Hi there, we are certainly sorry to hear about the trouble that this has caused you! Please do not hesitate to send us a private message if you are in need of any additional support while addressing this concern with your dealer. We are more than willing to get a case escalated on your behalf to a customer care specialist for additional assistance in having this resolved.

Kathryn
Ram Cares
 

Buz

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If the original battery hasn't been replaced I would do that immediately
^^100% this!
If you're still running the original battery just spend the $150 and get a quality one yourself.
Enough is enough.
 

saylor

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i cant justify that if its a truck under warranty RAM needs to find this guy a battery

tbh seeing all the electronic connectors in the wheel wells and everywhere unprotected, knowing about the rambox popping open, dead batteries, etc., its obvious the electronics are not going to last long term on these trucks.

and im saying that as a mopar person. it really sucks to realize this.

i have 2 1968 plymouths, had a 1995 1500, 2010 nitro, 2015 1500, and now this 2020 1500.

im super mopar. all day long.

but i can see this truck with all the electronic stuff aint gonna make it.
 

securityguy

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tbh seeing all the electronic connectors in the wheel wells and everywhere unprotected, knowing about the rambox popping open, dead batteries, etc., its obvious the electronics are not going to last long term on these trucks.
Where are there unprotected connectors EVERYWHERE? Find me one that's not "protected". All connectors are gasketed and sealed from weather. Just because you can "see" a connector does not mean it is unprotected from the elements!
 

saylor

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i only took 2 pics because its chilly out and im in my nighty, but -
f'r instance:
20210127_135326.jpg

20210127_135222.jpg

i think you are a fellow computer and/or security and/or telco guy like myself. these dont have pookey on them. they are not sealtite. they are not IP rated.

exposed wire in the wheel well?

on a 4x4?

really??

??
 

securityguy

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i only took 2 pics because its chilly out and im in my nighty, but -
f'r instance:

i think you are a fellow computer and/or security and/or telco guy like myself. these dont have pookey on them. they are not sealtite. they are not IP rated.

exposed wire in the wheel well?

on a 4x4?

really??

??
I am an EE with a TON of automotive electrical experience. At one point in my career, I was an engineer for MOLEX, the second largest connector manufacturer in the world. They all appear to be fully sealed automotive connectors. Not sure what you're concerned about.
 

saylor

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from the rambox post:
"So I just got back from the dealer and In fact there is a service Bulletin on this issue. Apparently Ram used a connector that has no seals to protect from water intrusion which causes corrosion on the wiring. This causes the driver side ram box to open. I attached the service bulletin which has the part number for new harness. The other picture showed which connector needs to be replaced. It is marked as number 5. New part will be here tomorrow which should take care of the issue."


i mean come on use your common sense. there are exposed wires just exposed. and they should be heatshrunk at minimum. they should be loomed. they should be fully dressed. the connections should have gaskets.

i dont want to debate it im not here to fight - we will both see in a year or two. i just know id get fired if i finished out some wiring like this.
 

saylor

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and under the word protected -

thats outside the frame rail. strike 1

in the wheel well. strike 2

down here in texas a vine will grab that and pull it loose in about 4 seconds
 

securityguy

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and under the word protected -

thats outside the frame rail. strike 1

in the wheel well. strike 2

down here in texas a vine will grab that and pull it loose in about 4 seconds
If you are that concerned...trade-ins are high value now...maybe time to get a Ford, GM or Toyota ;)
 

JJRamTX

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^^100% this!
If you're still running the original battery just spend the $150 and get a quality one yourself.
Enough is enough.
Ram Dealer replaced my battery after tow and dead battery time #3. They finally tested it and one of the cells was toast. No more re-charging it, time for replacement.
 

saylor

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i been doing the ford v dodge dance for years lool
20170716_102746.jpg

tbh - the fords cost more.
the fords are better equipped - like heat butt seats and stuff - thats part of that cost more . . .
the mopar is faster.
the mopar sounds way better.
the mopar rides better. the ford is bouncy AF.
fords dont have folding mirrors until you get to like lariat or some trim level.

i should probably do a review. . . .

i paid $38 for the blue one and sold it for $20 - pretty damn decent resale

iidk on the ferd yet its in autotrader right now.
 

saylor

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yessir, now that ive totally wasted OP

:)

why yes it is
20210124_104805.jpg

and after gaining education on towing/ winching from this forum - i have a other tow hook OTW
 

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