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Clayton Offroad 2.5" Jeep Gladiator Springs on 2020 Rebel

  • Thread starter Thread starter User_21361
  • Start date Start date
So if I get the 2.5" rear coil springs I have to get custom shocks made?
 
So if I get the 2.5" rear coil springs I have to get custom shocks made?
No. they'll work with any of OE shocks from Fox or King or Icon made for your truck. You can get longer shocks if you wanted from any vendor up to 29.75" extended.
 
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Hey peeps, just joined the forum...facebook guys arent really much help. This thread is by far the coolest thread ive seen, most informative. I will say im a little lost, I hope you guys dont mind me asking a couple questions for the rear. I would like to swap to claytons 3.5 coils. Currently stock with kings 0-3 on rear, 0-3 on front coilovers. I have been through icons dual rate yada yada...ended up taking them out. explain later. Is the 3.5" a true 3.5 lift of just under? If i do 3.5 coils, does the relocation bracket help for ride quality, needed? I will need to get extended king shocks, just unsure how long..waiting on rep to email me back., sway bar links i will get extended. Anything im missing? coils, links, shocks, relocation bracket?, brake line extension bracket? thank you so much in advance
Can you expand on the "Icon dual rate yada yada"? I am going to have 3.5" of lift in the front and I am trying to determine if I should run the Icon 1.5" or the Clayton 2.5" rear coil springs.
Thanks
 
Can you expand on the "Icon dual rate yada yada"? I am going to have 3.5" of lift in the front and I am trying to determine if I should run the Icon 1.5" or the Clayton 2.5" rear coil springs.
Thanks
What are you doin for achieve the 3.5” up front if I may ask??
 
What are you doin for achieve the 3.5” up front if I may ask??
Currently torn between:

Front 3.5" lift:
- Bilstein 5100 adjustable front shocks (5th clip setting) with Ready lift 2 inch leveling kit with top hat spacer and UCA
OR
- Rough Country 3.5" strut and Rough country forged upper control arms

AND
Rear lift:
- Icon 1.5" rear spring
OR
- Clayton 2.5" rear springs with some type of rear shock
 
I ended up going with the Clayton's and i'm very happy I did! They feel a bit softer than expected when unloaded riding on the 1st/2nd spring rate, but the ride quality is phenomenal.

Before the Clayton's I was sitting at 23.5" from the center of the hub to the fender flare. After installing the Clayton's I am sitting at 25.5" from center of center of the hub to the fender flare. So I gained 2" of lift in the rear.

Thanks everyone on this tread for the info!
 

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Since most of the Clayton info is this thread i thought it'll be a good idea to leave this here as well for others to see.
If you're getting a clacking noise with your Clayton springs is because the dead coils might be hitting each other when the spring compresses, you hit a bump, or a pothole etc, etc. It's kind of a nature with long progressive coil springs. Some people may experience this some others may not, trucks are not created equal. but it's a super easy fix.

I've had that situation with Icon 1.5" springs and with the Claytons as well. My truck runs heavy in the back at all times (500lbs of weight in the bed, recovery gear, steel bumper, swing out rear gate carrier, Full spare, etc etc), and when travelling i tend to add more weight in there as well. Our travel may involve miles of washboard roads, sugarish sand washes or mountain dirt roads with rocks etc, so i need a suspension able to whistand that stuff and coils that can carry weight but also coils that feel nice when the truck bed is not loaded to the roof :)
2020-07-21_04-46-31 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

Because of this the soft portion of the coils may hit each other if you get to experience the clack noise, you'll see the marks on the springs if that was the case. If you hear some noise and it happens to bother you all you need to do is add some sort of coil spring insulator.

You can buy for example Eibach spring insulators, eibach CS5002L, 1 per coil
2021-02-26_01-36-27 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

Then cut 3 or 4 pieces and fit them in there as needed. the sleeves come with a glue inside so make sure to fit your pieces where you want them the first time, i tried to push that first SOB at the top towards the inside and it won't move. I can remove it and fit another piece but i'm not that anal haha.
2021-02-26_01-36-51 by RAM RSM, on Flickr


Have fun.
I have a clacking sound in the back and it looks like my springs may be the reason. It seems the softer portion of the springs is indeed hitting each other. The sound is driving me nuts!

will report back after installing coil insulator.
 
Looking for clarification. If the front struts are set at 3" there should be 1 1/2" of threads showing correct?
 
Ok, so I finally got around to installing the Clayton 2.5" springs with Bilstein 5160 in the rear. Here are some tips I learned during the install:
1) Take the fender liner off (4 screws) to access the top bolt of the shock
2) The 5160 has a hex on the inside of the top bolt. You have to have the right hex key to hold the shaft to torque down the lock nut.
3) I dropped the rear axle down until it put slight tension on the brake lines. Couldn't go down far enough to pull ORP springs out. Used harbor freight spring compressors for removing ORP and installing the Clayton Springs. Alternatively, you could pull the calipers off and a few clips for a wiring harness above the diff but I chose to compress the springs slightly.

Overall I am very happy with the stance. Have 6112 upfront on clip 7 and that leaves me with a slight rake (will be close to level with the weight of all my gear/rig). Haven't taken on a trail yet but will report back after a few hundred miles of forest service roads.
 
Update: swapped the Claytons to ORP and the sound was still there. We think I may have a faulty shock. Fox will send new ones to test.
 
Since most of the Clayton info is this thread i thought it'll be a good idea to leave this here as well for others to see.
If you're getting a clacking noise with your Clayton springs is because the dead coils might be hitting each other when the spring compresses, you hit a bump, or a pothole etc, etc. It's kind of a nature with long progressive coil springs. Some people may experience this some others may not, trucks are not created equal. but it's a super easy fix.

I've had that situation with Icon 1.5" springs and with the Claytons as well. My truck runs heavy in the back at all times (500lbs of weight in the bed, recovery gear, steel bumper, swing out rear gate carrier, Full spare, etc etc), and when travelling i tend to add more weight in there as well. Our travel may involve miles of washboard roads, sugarish sand washes or mountain dirt roads with rocks etc, so i need a suspension able to whistand that stuff and coils that can carry weight but also coils that feel nice when the truck bed is not loaded to the roof :)
2020-07-21_04-46-31 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

Because of this the soft portion of the coils may hit each other if you get to experience the clack noise, you'll see the marks on the springs if that was the case. If you hear some noise and it happens to bother you all you need to do is add some sort of coil spring insulator.

You can buy for example Eibach spring insulators, eibach CS5002L, 1 per coil
2021-02-26_01-36-27 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

Then cut 3 or 4 pieces and fit them in there as needed. the sleeves come with a glue inside so make sure to fit your pieces where you want them the first time, i tried to push that first SOB at the top towards the inside and it won't move. I can remove it and fit another piece but i'm not that anal haha.
2021-02-26_01-36-51 by RAM RSM, on Flickr


Have fun.
Having similar issues so I ordered those. Are they only needed on the rear of the springs?
 
8 Months later. Guys that did this are you still happy? Im ordering the BDS 2in Performance kit with UCA and rear fox shocks - rated 0-3 in lift. I was researching the Tuftrucks VT. (how i found this thread) Sales said id get about 1 inch lift out of it. I really dont run that heavily maybe 400-500 lbs total 5-6 times a year. However I do have a ARE topper about 200lbs that stays on. Im looking at these Jeep Gladiator 2.5" Triple Rate Rear Coil Springs 2020+, JT the 2.5s. Is this going to get me level or even 1 inch rake (which i like). Did anyone upgrade the endlinks to allow more travel? or just run the springs and rear shocks call it a day. This is my daily driver but we take it on logging road camping trips. Nothing crazy. Thanks yall.
 
Carli is coming out with rebel and rebel HD (for MFT and ramboxes) rear springs. HD are in pre order and rebel wont be out of production for another 3-4 months. Thinking the Claytons till the carli ones came out.
 
Or there is Dobinsons coils, I have them in my truck they give you 2inches of lift and are a heavier rate. They also have a softer rate which is still more than stock and gives the same 2” of lift.

I’ve got a Rci 58” bed rack which is roughly 80-100lbs I would say maybe little more then the ikamper tent is 160 lbs and didn’t really notice it dropping height wise at all.

 

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Or there is Dobinsons coils, I have them in my truck they give you 2inches of lift and are a heavier rate. They also have a softer rate which is still more than stock and gives the same 2” of lift.

I’ve got a Rci 58” bed rack which is roughly 80-100lbs I would say maybe little more then the ikamper tent is 160 lbs and didn’t really notice it dropping height wise at all.

Looking at your set up you are sitting at roughly 3" in the front? 2.6 with the 6112 all the way up and the +.5. and 2" in rear. I think you sitting perfect but I will bet at just 2" with the BDS 2in performance kit. I did order the Carli 1.25 for the regular 1500. I called them and they said I should be fine. If not ill look into these and maybe look at the softer rate. I also thought about ordering some Timbrens, just in case. But I dont want to limit the travel of the carli springs. Ordered it all yesterday, so we'll see.
 

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