Talon4U2NV
Active Member
... I use a lot of a product called Rejex. It is a sealer, but more like a liquid wax. And is thin, true ceramics are thick.
RejeX high gloss finish that protects – Corrosion Technologies
SPACE AGE PROTECTION FOR YOUR CAR, TRUCK, BOAT, RV, AIRPLANE & MOTORCYCLE RejeX® is a thin-film polymer coating designed to provide a high-release protective finish for vehicles of all kinds. This very thin film – less than a micron thick – prevents stains and adhesion of common contaminants...www.corrosionx.com
I am not affiliated with them; but I love this stuff. I'm close to needing to order more myself. We use it on everything.
Never have used it on fiberglass myself. But if you look at the site, boaters use it. I have used it on aluminum wheels and such before, as well as some highly polished motorcycle parts and glass.Do you use it on metal & fiberglass bodies as well?
Kind of lost on....spacers? What series link was it on? And if the hardware is larger.. how would a spacer help unless you had smaller hardware to put in a hole you had sized for the larger hardware?Found an old thread saying the Core links use larger bolts and you'll have to drill out your mounts. Someone later commented that Core supplied them with spacers after the fact.
Anyone have any issues mounting the Core links?
When I had rear lowering springs I used the -1" Core rear links and drilled out the top mounts in the frame, no issues. I later removed the springs (replaced with OEM) and re-installed the OEM links which I had to drill out the top hole in the link and just used the Core hardware for the frame mountFound an old thread saying the Core links use larger bolts and you'll have to drill out your mounts. Someone later commented that Core supplied them with spacers after the fact.
Anyone have any issues mounting the Core links?
So, you only had to drill the truck mounts, but not the sway bar?When I had rear lowering springs I used the -1" Core rear links and drilled out the top mounts in the frame, no issues. I later removed the springs (replaced with OEM) and re-installed the OEM links which I had to drill out the top hole in the link and just used the Core hardware for the frame mount
CorrectSo, you only had to drill the truck mounts, but not the sway bar?
Not sure I can post this as I am not a vendor but here goes.... I use a lot of a product called Rejex. It is a sealer, but more like a liquid wax. And is thin, true ceramics are thick.
Yeah wouldn't hurt to contact them to see what length you need . I emailed them a few times and they got back to me very quick. Great customer service.Nice!
Yeah, sorry about the highjack...
I was planning on measuring mine and contacting them. It's a stock height Rebel, which everyone says is +1".
Now it's time for that Hellwig .Finally got mine installed. Only two small things to say. Upper M10 bolts were a bit long. Had to add some spacers to keep the unthreaded shank from bottoming out before clamping, and would have preffered the zerks be on the same side. Otherwise they look like they should hold up great.
And now it's time for wheel well liners.
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That is a Hellwig...Now it's time for that Hellwig .
Oh lol..... Looked all black in the picture.That is a Hellwig...